I'm planning to do all the fluids in the next couple of weeks and was wondering what people use to bleed their brakes. Anyone got any recommendations on a one man bleeder?

Here's a cheapie from SCA: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Toledo-One-Man-Brake-Bleeder-Kit-310261.aspx?pid=SPO83911#Recommendations
No idea how well it works though.
A quick Fleabay search also brings up this one, which looks identical to me for three times the price:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-Kincrome-One-Man-Brake-Bleeder-Kit-New-Release-Best-on-Market-/221178247654?hash=item337f4039e6:m:mEM0jQSH25M1KWi TISuiJOg

The one man bleeders work well enough.

If the brake fluid in the reservoir is at all murky, also get a syringe from the chemist (needle not needed), to suck out the fluid from the master cylinder and use some fresh fluid in the syringe to wash the rubber debris off the bottom. Refill, then bleed until fresh fluid comes through.

Wash the syringe out with water and it is ok to use next time, or just chuck it.

Syringe i've already got (benefits in working in a hospital). I saw the SCA ones, just wondered if anyone had any experience with them. I guess as long as there's no back flow they'll be fine.

I've been using a cheap Repco one man bleeder for the last couple of years no issues with it. The syringe is a great idea for the master cylinder and steering fluid too. They do the job, brakes work, pedal feels great, what more do you need. Money left over for a cold bevy at the end.

I've used the Vizibleed kit in the past on my old 380, see here: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Vizibleed-Brake-Clutch-Bleeder-One-Man.aspx?pid=9500#Recommendations
Worked well enough except that the little plastic clip which holds the tube in place (called the retaining strap in the ad) split on the end by the time I had done the last brake line, which made it a bit difficult to use again.
So as Max says they all work OK, in which case I would go for the cheap $8 one.

I had good success doing mine last week by making my own. Go to a hardware shop and buy one meter of 6mm hose. This will be tight over the nipple enough to not let any air in.

Then, get a drink bottle (for example I used a Lipton Iced Tea bottle) and drill a hole in the top in the middle. 1mm smaller than the hose you purchase. This will give it a tight fit.
Also, drill a small 1-2mm hole next to this big hole in order for the bottle to breath.

This gives you an effective one man bleeder for little to no money.

I also agree r.e. the syringe. I used a large one on my brake reservoir and put the used fluid into the bleeder I made. This means that when you go to pump (bleed) your brakes, the hose will suck in brake fluid instead of air (although if done right nothing will be sucked back).

I hope that all makes sense.

tl;dr make your own with PVC pipe and a bottle :)

Most bleeders have a one way valve somewhere in them - push pedal, fluid flows into container, pedal up, fluid from master cylinder flows down and fluid in container doesn't get sucked back up.

A home made one without a one way valve won't do that.

Most bleeders have a one way valve somewhere in them - push pedal, fluid flows into container, pedal up, fluid from master cylinder flows down and fluid in container doesn't get sucked back up.

A home made one without a one way valve won't do that.

Yeah what you have said makes sense.
I will add that even with my little home-made item I still used the two man method. If it is definitely a one man job then a bleeder with a valve makes sense.

The small amount of fluid that MAY go back is pointless to even think about

We use a 600ml coke bottle, have a hole drilled through the cap and push some vac hose through to the bottom of the bottle. drill a small 1/8th hole in lid or top of bottle.

Connect, open bleed nipple, 10 or so pumps each corner and all done.

I have had some of the commercial bleeders, tried air power bleeders, pressure bleeders etc and always ended back with the old bottle and hose.

On some newer cars we use our scan tool to push the fluid through, cant do this with the 380 but the third and fourth gen Pajero's work as do a lot of the new Mitsubishi's

The small amount of fluid that MAY go back is pointless to even think about

We use a 600ml coke bottle, have a hole drilled through the cap and push some vac hose through to the bottom of the bottle. drill a small 1/8th hole in lid or top of bottle.

Connect, open bleed nipple, 10 or so pumps each corner and all done.

I have had some of the commercial bleeders, tried air power bleeders, pressure bleeders etc and always ended back with the old bottle and hose.

On some newer cars we use our scan tool to push the fluid through, cant do this with the 380 but the third and fourth gen Pajero's work as do a lot of the new Mitsubishi's

Yeah fair enough!
When I was doing the two man method, I would leave the nipple open for a few pumps and observe the fluid. I saw almost zero fluid go back into the caliper. It's good to know that my theory is backed up! :)

I use the "one man cheapies" from SCA and they are OK....just chuck the pissy bottle they come in and get a big pet bottle. Remember to dispose of your old brake oil responsibly.

I think the issue is that air goes back into the system from the nipple threads with a one man bleed kit?

I think the issue is that air goes back into the system from the nipple threads with a one man bleed kit?

No, if you do it right it doesn't.
The trick is to tighten the nut back up finger tight before you remove the tube.
If you remove the tube while the nut is still open then yes, air will get in and you'll have to bleed the line all over again.

I think the issue is that air goes back into the system from the nipple threads with a one man bleed kit?

You don't crack the nipple that wide open. You still want the fluid to come out under pressure, not free running.

You don't crack the nipple that wide open. You still want the fluid to come out under pressure, not free running.

Yep, once you crack the nut you open it only about a quarter turn. That way you can do the nut back up again with the tube still attached to the bleed nipple, coz the tube (with drain bottle attached and still sitting in the drained fluid) can turn with the nut.

Here's a cheapie from SCA: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Toledo-One-Man-Brake-Bleeder-Kit-310261.aspx?pid=SPO83911#Recommendations
No idea how well it works though.
A quick Fleabay search also brings up this one, which looks identical to me for three times the price:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-Kincrome-One-Man-Brake-Bleeder-Kit-New-Release-Best-on-Market-/221178247654?hash=item337f4039e6:m:mEM0jQSH25M1KWi TISuiJOg

I could be cynical and say that the difference in cost is the flea-bay tax, but then i noticed one is a professional quality tool and one is made in taiwan :ninja:

I'll probably just get the taiwanese one

My method:

(1) Remove wheel.
(2) Remove cap.
(3) Open bleeder valve.
(4) Gently force piston all the way in, using screwdrivers between pad and disc. (*)
(5) Watch dirty fluid squirt out.
(6) Close valve.
(7) Empty reservoir, wash out, fill with clean fluid.
(8) Pump pedal.
(9) Attach clear hose to bleed nipple. Point uphill. Open valve, wait for gravity to feed clean fluid through, watch for air bubbles.
(10) Clean fluid, no bubbles - close valve, remove hose, replace cap, wash fluid off plastic.
(11) Replace wheel, torque wheel nuts.
(12) Move to next wheel.

(*) If piston does not retract easily, remove calliper and dismantle, clean out.