Just recently the starter on my KF Rada has been really slow. Almost sounds like it won't crank, but it does and the engine starts. Then runs normally.

I've tried two batteries, one has a rest voltage (ie. after being charged on a bench charger overnight) of 12.65V the other is not far off. Both have the same result.

Should I go buy a new battery or is this about it for the life of my starter? Car has done 328,000km.

Will make a video and post it on youtube if people think that's worthwhile.

Thanks in advance,

Ian.

What is the battery voltage whilst cranking?

Starter is on its last legs. I'm surprised it has lasted that many km.
Check there are no oil leaks onto the old one, oil inside a fresh starter can kill it quick.

Starter is playing up, put a 380 starter in the car and will fix issue

Remember how many times your existing starter has started that engine, has done well for its age. These are a reduction starter so need plenty of torque to work, once they start to get wear on brushes etc they will then die a quick death

Great! I ordered one so it will be a weekend job for me. I've not had a good look but I'm hoping its something easily changed with standard hand tools (like a socket and or spanner set) once driven up some ramps and disconnecting the battery?

:-)

Ian.

In theory (haven't done it myself) it is one of the easier jobs you can do on the V6.
Don't forget to check for any oil leaks in the area.

Do the "due diligence" bit - have the old and new starter next to each other, and check that the number of teeth, part number etc are the same.
(On some earlier Mitsus, the starter for an auto and manual were different and could catch you out, don't know if this is true for the third gen, but worth checking physical details.)

Great! I ordered one so it will be a weekend job for me. I've not had a good look but I'm hoping its something easily changed with standard hand tools (like a socket and or spanner set) once driven up some ramps and disconnecting the battery?
Ian.

I've done about 3 of them. (All on auto's). Pretty straight forward as long as you have ramps. You'll need to remove the plastic undercover. I also remove the metal heat shield around the starter. The top bolt of the starter is a little difficult to get at and will probably be tight. You will need a socket on a good strong bar or ratchet.

Its absolutely essential that you disconnect the battery. Theres not much room to move so you will short something out for sure if you have power connected.

Its probably a worn out starter as suggested above (considering the KM's on the clock).

But, I can't help ask about the condition of these 2 batteries.
Battery open circuit voltage is meaningless in terms of assessing its cold cranking amps capability.

If these are used batteries then they might just be marginal for starting your car.

On top of that, if there is an increased resistance on the starter motor solenoid contacts (due to fatigue and pitting!) this further reduces the cranking capability.

I'd rule out these batteries first.

Its probably a worn out starter as suggested above (considering the KM's on the clock).

Also,if there is an increased resistance on the starter motor solenoid contacts (due to fatigue and pitting!).

Fatigue or pitting, yes, but also oil getting in there. Carbons the solenoid contacts up something bad.

LOL - fail. Tried to remove the old one and can't get that 2nd bolt out which holds the starter (the hard to get at one). I don't have the correct offset S-shaped spanner. :-(

So it's charge the battery and see if I can get once last start out of the f*cker to drive it to my local workshop.. annoys me to have to pay them for something I've been able to do on Mazdas, Mercedes, and Fords for years... Now I just lack the patience if something doesn't go to plan...

I should know by Wednesday if it's all good.

Ian.

S shaped spanner... Wtf..

A normal 12-14 mm socket (which ever one it is, can't remember exactly) will get it out. Should take no more than 10 minutes to take it out. No need to remove the heat shield either....

Yeah I know I'm lame. It's a 14MM socket but the 1/2in ratchet I have is too bulbous to get the socket on at the correct angle, lest it round the head.

Just as well my main line of income is with computers not cars... :-)

LOL - fail. Tried to remove the old one and can't get that 2nd bolt out which holds the starter (the hard to get at one). I don't have the correct offset S-shaped spanner. :-(

So it's charge the battery and see if I can get once last start out of the f*cker to drive it to my local workshop.. annoys me to have to pay them for something I've been able to do on Mazdas, Mercedes, and Fords for years... Now I just lack the patience if something doesn't go to plan...

I should know by Wednesday if it's all good.

Ian.

Would'nt it be cheaper to just get a cheap double ended ring spanner set from supercheap? I don't remember any real dramas doing mine, nor do i remember what I used but all i have is

http://static.gedore.net/module/objproduct_data/uploaddata/normal/6017480.jpg

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/library/product/huge/04/040217374.jpg

1/2 & 3/8 drives with long extensions.

Unless I used my Air ratchet but if I got in with that then I'd expect a ratchet handle would work too.

I do have flex joints too, Probably used the 3/8 as it's smaller and the extension longer and thinner

Yeah I know I'm lame. It's a 14MM socket but the 1/2in ratchet I have is too bulbous to get the socket on at the correct angle, lest it round the head.

Just as well my main line of income is with computers not cars... :-)

I think I used a 1/2" bar instead of a ratchet. They are much less 'bulbous'. Should be pretty cheap at Supercheap. A deep ring spanner might work too but I dont have those so wouldnt know for sure.