I normally don't need to join discussions on this forum because I always find what I need thanks to all contributors to this forum. At the moment I need to adjust the kickdown band on my TR magna but there is a special tool (E23M13-1) required to hold the servo piston from rotating. Where to get this tool?
Has anyone done the adjustment any other way?

what is the box doing for you to need to touch this part of the box

dont overlook the pedal kick down switch at the top of accelerator pedal

I often found the fault was in the solenoid part and replaced that or fixed the wiring connections

or a box problem even ECU and TP S adjustment engine tune

the tr repair manual kick down adjustment at tranny section .... 23-3-2...

shows a socket held in place with a bracket to the box and an inch pounds tension wrench set up going through the socket

TP first gen repair manual shows a

spanner and spanner head tension wrench

you may have read this topic
your tranny has the same kickdown adjustment as the first gen

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106241

note the diagrams show it with the auto out of the engine bay

might have to take out the radiator for a better go at it


I only ever adjusted the kick down band after a rebuild...

never needed to adjust kickdown band during other times , including boxes 250 km or more

"what is the box doing for you to need to touch this part of the box"

the box only shift fr 1st to 2nd gear at almost 4500 rpm.

I just did a trans oil replacement recently and the kick down band adjustment is supposedly part of the trannies regular servicing.
I've never done this adjustment coz I don't have the special tool.
Thats why I thought this might have caused the shifting problem

As to your original question
the tool you seek is not for sale after market anywhere

you can take it into any loacal automatic workshop .....and for a small fee
..have them adjust the kick down band only

if the box is still no good
it is possible when not required at all
the auto transmission guys will advise you to do a full gearbox rebuild


I dont believe the kick down band adjustment will solve all that boxes problems
if it isnt changing 1st to second before 4500 rpm there are a few other possibles


all DIY do-able solutions and diagnostics at your disposal
post back if you would like to know more about the next processes below or information

it could be a simple soleniod fault ... up to replacing the tranny ECU ( a known high failure rate on these )


you can retrive the automatic fault codes from your cars diagnostic port near the fuse box
by using an LED test light

there are code numbers on a chart in most good repair manuals

I agree with Magna Buff that your problem is unlikely to be related to kick-down band adjustment. More likely TPS (throttle position sensor) or TCU (transmission control unit).

I note from your profile that you have a 1992 TR 2.6 auto. Is it by any chance a carburetted engine? Ignore the following if it is efi but I had a similar problem with my carby engined TP 1st gen. Adjusting the TPS wasn't enough to fix it. It wouldn't change up from 1st to second unless I either backed right off the throttle or let it rev to about 4000 rpm. It turned out that the problem was that the carby's secondary throttle was not opening due to a faulty diaphragm. Consequently the engine was down on power and needed higher than normal throttle openings when taking off. The TCU interpreted the high throttle openings read from the TPS as a high power situation and therefore would hold first gear as long as possible. When I replaced the secondary diaphragm and got the carby's secondary throttle working, the problem with delayed upshifts resolved itself.

'all DIY do-able solutions and diagnostics at your disposal
post back if you would like to know more about the next processes below or information

it could be a simple soleniod fault ... up to replacing the tranny ECU ( a known high failure rate on these'

Yes please txs magna buff

your forum email address is bouncing back at me


broke the 1300 plus page pdf manual into sections of pdf

about the EFI and tranny diagnostics a volt meter is too difficult .... an LED test light is the way to go

this automatic pdf of 44 pages
pages 22 to 25 shows different DIY gigs. tools and spanners ..combinations ..... to adjust that kickdown band

http://www.atdsm.com/pdf/atoh2.pdf

I have this car since 2006. I just pulled the TCU and this is how it is. Someone has toyed with it even before I got the car. The capacitor has been replaced with 47uF 63v I can't figure out the manufacturer. I doesn't seem leaking but I've read somewhre on other thread that they can dry up without even leaking. Im no eleco buff but I'm going to replace this and see if it works before I go to the wreckers. by the way it was soldered previously I think I can manage myself.
http://s4.postimg.org/yjw7qkt09/IMG_5045.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/yjw7qkt09/)

http://s4.postimg.org/rhya4dpeh/IMG_5046.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/rhya4dpeh/)

http://s4.postimg.org/mtia9707t/IMG_5049.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/mtia9707t/)

get a close look at the all that printed circuit of yours ......may be other dry solder or diode issues

in that other post you found .

those guys who fixed up their own TCU s ..are still around.... so might post

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105097

replaced TCU today with a second hand unit.
It now works alright only with O/D off. Looks like it is now a problem with the clutch pack. I have these replaced in 08 when the car won't run more than 80 km/hr.

its an easy job through the wheel arch

can buy F4A23 end clutch kits from any automatic repair shop ..same box also used in hyundia

soak the friction discs in tranny oil for two hours

take off the cover plate and you are at the Overdrive drum