I got stuck on the Hume Hwy today in bumper to bumper traffic because of a fire near the freeway for about 20 minutes.

I ended up scooting into the side streets of Campbellfield just to get away from the traffic, as I drove up the side street the temp went to 3/4's so I stopped to check to make sure and there was no sign of any hoses ect leaking. As I took off it went into limp mode stuck in 3rd so I limped home via the back streets to come out near Kmart for those who know the area. As I was getting closer to home going around a corner it was like the transmission skipped a gear and then the same around the final corner.

The cars been fine since just popping up to the shops twice since.

If it's anything like the triton autos it sounds like the gearbox had overheated, this would be why you got a code. They go into a safety mode when to hot.

Only explanation I've got.

Transmission fluid breakdown and subsequent damage caused by overheating (is cumulative) possibility begs an immediate replacement of all the fluid in the transmission. Flush it.

Transmission fluid breakdown and subsequent damage caused by overheating (is cumulative) possibility begs an immediate replacement of all the fluid in the transmission. Flush it.

I had a look and lets just say it's not a pretty crimsony type color .......

You might also want to check your cooling system, ie. coolant at right level, both fans running at both speeds, etc. The temperature climbing to 3/4 isn't good and shouldn't happen, even in this blasted heat. I drove up the Bay from Seaford to Port Melbourne in yesterday's heat (because the car has AC and my house doesn't!) and the temperature never moved from 1/2, even when stuck in traffic at Edithvale. I don't know if a hot tranny would cause the temp gauge to rise, the oil cooler does run through the radiator but I wouldn't have thought it could (but I stand ready to be corrected). I can believe the reverse though, if the cooling system is not running efficiently it could prematurely cook the tranny fluid via the cooler.

I agree with Ensoniq, if only the tranny was at fault, why did the temp gauge go up to 3/4?

Perhaps you have a problem with your cooling system. You said the tranny fluid is burnt, so first step would be to flush it with genuine. Then get to work on the cooling system... Are both rad fans working? Check the coolant level. Test/replace thermostat etc etc

Don't run the car with the thermostat removed, it's not like a traditional car where it could be removed temporarily.

I had a very similar problem with the temp gauge going to 3/4...ended up being the thermostat. Replaced it and no problems since.

The transmission cooler is part of the radiator so if the car got that hot, so did the transmission oil and that's probably why the limp mode and wierd gear change.

replace the thermostat - it's cheap and pretty easy to do, also if the gearbox oil hasn't been flushed in the last 50-100Km it would be worth doing too as overheating is often the cause of a failed gearbox in these cars.

I pulled over with the car running when it went too 3/4's and checked the engine bay for the fans and leaks and both fans working fin and no leaks. It only jumped past 1/2 for those few seconds as I zoomed into the commercial area just past the go kart track for people who know the area. Maybe the sudden hard acceleration after sitting in the hot traffic took too much and just confused the poor old things brain, it took 20 minutes to travel 1km it was that heavy.

I'll get it checked .... but finances are the issue atm.

I'd still renew the thermostat anyway, who knows how old the one in there at the moment is and they tend to fail after around 150,000 km. As bb61266 says it's a cheap part and fairly easy to DIY, you should be able to pick up a genuine new one from your local Mistu dealership for around $40.

Just checked with Repco and Supercheap and they're around $60.

Just checked with Repco and Supercheap and they're around $60.

Genuine Mitsubishi one is $33.00 something, has the gasket already.

I was getting prices the other week for a thermostat and couldn't find one under $90 :eek2:

Might need to try the local dealer after seeing this

I checked out rockauto and even with the delivery fee it was cheaper for the thermo and filter ......

I did take the old girl(vera - aka vinegar tits last saturday) to my local Auto Trans guy. I went to school with him and told him the drama's I'd been having not just on Saturday but in the lead up and he put my mind at rest. Although agreeing with me that I should use it as little as possible he said he wasn't concerned by the symptoms and to bring it into him late January when he is back from holidays.

I pulled over with the car running when it went too 3/4's and checked the engine bay for the fans and leaks and both fans working fin and no leaks. It only jumped past 1/2 for those few seconds as I zoomed into the commercial area just past the go kart track for people who know the area. Maybe the sudden hard acceleration after sitting in the hot traffic took too much and just confused the poor old things brain, it took 20 minutes to travel 1km it was that heavy. .

sounds exactly like the thermostat - if you're tight for cash pull it out and youtube how to test it with boiling water. I got a genuine one from Cheap Auto Spares on the gold coast for $28, you might want to try some of the independent spare parts stores, they are often much cheaper than the chain stores.

I thought I'd run it with the cap off to look at the flow, there was a heap of air bubbles ........

Not really sure what answer you are looking for here.

The thermostat has been suggested as your first port of call, get a genuine one and replace it.

Air could be in there because you've been stuffing around with the cooling system, such as running with the cap off.

The cap may also be faulty and not sealing properly - causing it to suck air into the system.

I'd replace the thermostat with genuine, get the air out of the system, and see how it goes. If it still shows air you would be best off heading to a professional for a pressure test.

Bubbles in the coolant always makes people think "head gasket", but extremely unlikely. MadMagna (the resident guru) says the head gaskets on all the third gens are close to bullet proof. An AMC member recently pulled his heads (against forum advice) and found they were fine, costing thousands for no reason.

Finally got everything done.

Trans flush took 15 litres to bring the color back from the burnt brown it was. The trans is better going from 2nd to 3rd but it's still not 100% under acceleration.


Engine oil/filter changed.

New Thermostat, radiator cap and coolant all done.

So I've been careful how I drive it anyway backing off from 2nd as it changes into 3rd.

I won't guarantee that what I am going to suggest will fix your problem, but you might want to attempt to make some minor adjustments to your Throttle Position Sensor(TPS), which is located on the front side of the throttle body.

Some basic information here:

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106112&p=1633295&viewfull=1#post1633295

and a basic you tube here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPkk6md3Sy0

There is no need to be too nervous about adjusting the TPS, as if your adjustments don't seem to be working, just return the switch to it's original position.

Test drive and retighten screws after each adjustment until you feel that you are getting some improvement.

Possibly, take a photograph before you start as a reference as to how it is sitting before you start..

It is best to make very small adjustments only, and try both clockwise and counterclockwise in very small increments.

There is no need to remove the connector to the TPS, just losen the securing screws slightly.

You will need a very small ring spanner.

6mm or 7mm from memory.

Or a 1/4" drive socket set, and 6mm or 7mm socket.

DON'T REMOVE THE SCREWS, JUST BACK THEM OFF 'TILL GENTLE FINGER PRESSURE WILL ALLOW THE TPS TO MOVE.

In the following image the TPS is black and is BELOW the idle adjustment screw.

http://i68.tinypic.com/1osyg8.jpg