I've decided to swap out the stock double DIN head unit on my KH for a new one from JB-FI.
I wont be using the 6 stacker as the gf doesnt want it. She only wants iPhone connectivety for calls and music.
I wont get one of those FM transmitters either as i found they always have hiss and reception issues and quality issues.

I will install this myself, but a question for anyone who knows; is the KH the same setup as the KL, i.e.: a universal type of harness connector, or is it less sophisticated/more complicated?
Thanks in advance to anyone who knows.

I think they are the same.....mits to iso

If you are buying the harness adaptor plug from Aeropro etc. you should specify your model number to make sure you get the right adaptor. The adaptor you get can be either Mitsu to ISO or Mitsu to [headunit brand].

Alternatively, its not that hard to just cut off the OEM plug and then crimp on connectors. I know people like to keep the original plug in case they want to put the OEM unit back in, but I think this rarely happens. Working out the wiring isn't too difficult, there will be an Earth, Constant Power, Switched Power, illumination, speaker wires (two for each speaker), power antenna.

if you do a google search for magna stereo wiring harness or something like that, and change the search to pictures, you will find the guide on what wire goes where. this was a huge help to me the first time i changed my head unit

No worries, thanks guys, I'm ok with soldering, shrink wrap and the ISO standard.
I want to know if theres a socket (ISO or Mits) on the harness.
The KL had a Mits plug which I sourced an Aeropro ISO adapter for (although a couple of wires needed switching over).
The KH is 5 years older than the KL though so thought I'd ask.
Yeah, I'll search here for a KH wiring colour coding guide.

I've decided to swap out the stock double DIN head unit on my KH for a new one from JB-FI.
I wont be using the 6 stacker as the gf doesnt want it. She only wants iPhone connectivety for calls and music.
I wont get one of those FM transmitters either as i found they always have hiss and reception issues and quality issues.

I will install this myself, but a question for anyone who knows; is the KH the same setup as the KL, i.e.: a universal type of harness connector, or is it less sophisticated/more complicated?
Thanks in advance to anyone who knows.

Always?

I purchased this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bluetooth-Car-Kit-MP3-Player-FM-Transmitter-SD-USB-Charger-For-iPhone-Samsung-S6-/161622300844?hash=item25a17098ac:g:flAAAOSwBLlU9Vc 9

6 weeks ago.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104699&p=1633732&viewfull=1#post1633732

So far it has been faultless, and for $25 greatly exceeds expectations.

Sound quality and clarity for USB stored music is exactly the same as if I was playing the FM radio.

My stock factory radio is still in place, interior appearance is unaltered, as is the factory wiring, so there are no auto electrical issues that can crop up in the future.

P.S. I don't use this transmitter for mobile phone use, not because there is a potential problem, but because I hardly use a mobile at all, anywhere.

I am "old school".

I think if your going for an aftermarket one from JB hifi (and a double din one at that) Go for one that allows for a reversing camera input. Made a world of difference, I can't imagine reversing without one now.

I'm not a fan of those double din CD changer ones. Like this: https://www.jbhifi.com.au/gps-car-audio/kenwood/kenwood-dpx-u5140bt-200w-2-din-mp3-cd-tuner-with-bluetooth/694637/

I think go for one with Apple Car Play as those are the talk of the town at the moment: https://www.jbhifi.com.au/gps-car-audio/in-car-entertainment/alpine/alpine-ilx-007e-7-receiver-with-apple-carplay/673883/

Always?

I purchased this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bluetooth-Car-Kit-MP3-Player-FM-Transmitter-SD-USB-Charger-For-iPhone-Samsung-S6-/161622300844?hash=item25a17098ac:g:flAAAOSwBLlU9Vc 9

6 weeks ago.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104699&p=1633732&viewfull=1#post1633732

So far it has been faultless, and for $25 greatly exceeds expectations.

Sound quality and clarity for USB stored music is exactly the same as if I was playing the FM radio.

My stock factory radio is still in place, interior appearance is unaltered, as is the factory wiring, so there are no auto electrical issues that can crop up in the future.

P.S. I don't use this transmitter for mobile phone use, not because there is a potential problem, but because I hardly use a mobile at all, anywhere.

I am "old school".
Really? I have a lot of trouble believing there is no snap, crackle, pop, or hiss!
What do you mean you dont use a mobile, what do you do, plug a usb stick with mp3's into it?
Even if it works well, i think the gf wants a new head unit to modernise the experience, rear view camera, dvd player, touch screen.

I swapped out my KL's system to get satnav in-dash and a rear camera. She doesnt want sat-nav as she believes her phone GPS app is better for that, whereas i find mobile GPS in the car to be fiddly and distracting. If it was just for music streaming i wouldnt have bothered because I was happy with a combination of CD and radio, but some people have all their favourite music on their phones and dont use CD or radio.

Good Stuff leadfoot, easy n cheap answer...

FM is equivalent to about 128 kb mp3 so it sounds like there a good connection there.. BT maxes out about about 256 kbps...
I had a belkin FM portable transmitter ages ago, and tuned in all the work trucks, worked great in a shed.. That was cutting edge back then... I also had a wired in job in the 380 for a while.. ( FM Modulator ?)
Didnt work too well... I found they bodged the install, and fixed it myself.. This led to me getting a soldering iron.. Now I've done a lot of install in club cars....

But for the record, the ISO to Mits adaptor is the same for all 3rd Gens, just the antenna wire differs when available.. I usually get the ISO to Mits unit, and solder that to the Head Units plug, you can always easily revert it to stock that way...
I try to avoid cutting and drilling into a car at all. Its easily avoidable...

Oh, I think there is an issue with the earth, but just run a direct earth of HU harness, extending it to reach the dash bolts, you'll find it wont lose its memory, if you ever partially pull it out for further work...

I think if your going for an aftermarket one from JB hifi (and a double din one at that) Go for one that allows for a reversing camera input. Made a world of difference, I can't imagine reversing without one now.

I'm not a fan of those double din CD changer ones. Like this: https://www.jbhifi.com.au/gps-car-audio/kenwood/kenwood-dpx-u5140bt-200w-2-din-mp3-cd-tuner-with-bluetooth/694637/

I think go for one with Apple Car Play as those are the talk of the town at the moment: https://www.jbhifi.com.au/gps-car-audio/in-car-entertainment/alpine/alpine-ilx-007e-7-receiver-with-apple-carplay/673883/
Gf insists she doesnt want sat-nav, so i ended up getting a Sony unit (https://www.jbhifi.com.au/gps-car-audio/in-car-entertainment/sony/sony-xav-68bt-6-2-wvga-multimedia-receiver/619456/) for about $400, looks decent and has BT streaming, phone, USB, DVD, touch screen and a nice function/volume knob that will match the interior style in the KH.

The Apple car play would be the way to go, but $999 is hard to justify in my old KH!
If i was going to spend that I'd also jump to the next price point to include sat-nav.

Speaking of cost of sat-nav; there was a unit I saw at JB Hi-Fi, a brand i dont know, which included sat-nav for about $500 - very cheap! But the guy there said every second one they sold came back faulty, so he's not recommending them.

But for the record, the ISO to Mits adaptor is the same for all 3rd Gens, just the antenna wire differs when available.. I usually get the ISO to Mits unit, and solder that to the Head Units plug, you can always easily revert it to stock that way...
I try to avoid cutting and drilling into a car at all. Its easily avoidable...
thanks , and thats what I will do



Oh, I think there is an issue with the earth, but just run a direct earth of HU harness, extending it to reach the dash bolts, you'll find it wont lose its memory, if you ever partially pull it out for further work...
Thats interesting. You mean if the unit case is not contacting earth then memory is lost? I'd disconnect the battery anyhow, just to be safe, before working on it.
Apart from retaining memory, there shouldnt be any safety issue with earth? I cant remember connecting that wire on the KL.

Really? I have a lot of trouble believing there is no snap, crackle, pop, or hiss!
What do you mean you dont use a mobile, what do you do, plug a usb stick with mp3's into it?


Yes, when I write something on the forum - or in any aspect of my life, you can take it as gospel.

My grandfather had a saying:

"My word is my bond".

I like to think that kind of approach to life is still not quite dead yet - as rare as it may be these days.

And yes, I have over 1000 songs on one of my USB sticks.

The unit I linked to plays every one of them perfectly.

THe only annoying thing is the synthesised Asian voice that gives an introduction on startup each time.

And no, I don't use a mobile much.

My admittedly very restricted plan with Optus costs me $9.50 per month as it has since 2007.

I carry it in the car if I happen to break down somewhere and it's been 9 years from memory since I was in a situation where I needed to call a mobile mechanic/auto sparky.

I've never been a member of the NRMA or similar.

Having to rely on myself to fix things forces one to learn a lot about mechanical things and/or to be prepared for most eventualities.

Yes, when I write something on the forum - or in any aspect of my life, you can take it as gospel...
I didnt mean I thought you were lying, I just meant I had trouble believing it lol
I've gone ahead and ordered one, fingers crossed it works as well as yours.

Let us know how you find it.

As I said, for $25 including the postage, you can't lose.

It's a lot cheaper than going to the sound installer and I think for those who are not needing too many gadgets it represents fantastic value for money.

I am normally hestitant to buy "cheap Chinese junk", but in this case I think I had a win.

Flip, its March already and I still havent installed the new head unit 🤔
gf's been using the little blue-tooth FM adapter. Its been ok, but there is hum and some buzz depending on how its positioned, not too bad but its there. In the KH the cigarette lighter position is a little too close to the dash and the adapter does wobble around in it and depending on the orientation it buzzes.
Maybe if it was located further away from the dash it would be ok.

Anyhow time to install the double head unit and the reversing camera went in this afternoon. Its a wide angle NTSC type with a small wire that can be broken to reverse the pic.
Cable routing was easy after I removed the rear bench seat and back. I notice the KH has a good supply of deadening material back there and some neat plastic cable covers. I dont recall the KL having those.

Went to wire it up and found the original spoiler LED connections were falling apart. They'd used those nasty clamps that cut into the wires, and after 15 years they were looking a bit sad! Anyhow I resoldered those and shrink wrapped them.
I couldnt identify the polarity on the brake lamp plug. For some reason the LED wires are connected to pins 1 and 4, so you'd think they must be the brake wires, but when I put the parkers on and connected the volt meter pins 1 and 2 were live, leaving 3 and 4 for the brakes I assume, but why is the LED connected to pin one then? Maybe pin 1 is earth and 4 is + for the brakes. But the wiring color is confusing too. I'll need to get the gf to put her foot on the brake so I can measure which pins are doing what.

Also, I remember with the KL installation I had to reverse the power wires, (ACC and constant power), to ensure proper operation of the memory when the power was turned off. Anyone know if its the same setup in the KH?
Is there a wiring diagram for the KH available?

Is there a wiring diagram for the KH available?
Should be accessible in the downloadable w/s manual (at least the version I have goes back to the H series)

Thanks WytWun.
Does anyone know of a convenient place under the dash to tap into the reverse light +12 line? When I ran the camera video cable I didnt run a signal cable, cos the stupid instructions didnt bother to remind me about that, lol

?...
Also, I remember with the KL installation I had to reverse the power wires, (ACC and constant power), to ensure proper operation of the memory when the power was turned off. Anyone know if its the same setup in the KH?
Well I can now confirm the KH is equipped with a Mits plug on the loom (thank goodness) and its the same issue as the KL, must cross the power wires.

Hope the following helps:



http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab124/vbednikov/Miscellaneous/kh_audio_1_zpsppbuz7ha.png

http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab124/vbednikov/Miscellaneous/kh_audio_2a_zpsyjhqctqi.png




PM me your email address and I will email you higher res images if the above are not clear enough.

The power wires are not crossed, I have fitted more head units than I care to remember and have never once had an issue with the power and memory wires being crossed

I've put fresh radios into Magnas a couple of times, and often get those two the wrong way around.
I use the radio manual to identify the wiring on the plug and wiring that comes with the radio, and the car plug wiring from the manual or online info. Then cut, splice and test. If ok, make the wiring connections permanent. Solder and shrink wrap. I never retain the plug on the car wiring as returning to the original radio has a probability of zero for me.

The aerpro connectors work fine, provided you get the right ones for the radio and car.

It works ok if the power wiring is reversed, but you lose station presets if they are wrongly wired, once you take the key out. Jut reverse them, no big deal.

The power wires are not crossed, I have fitted more head units than I care to remember and have never once had an issue with the power and memory wires being crossed
I found in both cars the Aerpro harness needs the power wires to be crossed otherwise the memory is not maintained.
So the power wires I'm referring to are ACC switched power and continous + to battery.
Obviously if they're connected the wrong way the system will lose power once the car is turned off and wont retain settings.
I did check the Aerpro against the ISO standard and found it was correct. I dont know why Mits crosses them but I'm aware some other manufacturers have too. Just google it.
The Aerpro harness even provides connecting lugs on those wires to make cross over easy, which just shows how common this is.

Btw, the unit that I installed in the KH is a Sony XAV-68BT. It doesnt have Sat-Nav but has blue-tooth hands free and audio streaming, FM and AM and some digital stuff I dont get yet and DVD, USB and other basics. It was bought because it offered great bang-for-buck as a xmas special and the gf liked the look of it.
It looks good with a single power/mode/volume knob that matches with the KH climate control knob and the old OEM stereos knob keeping that OEM feel, but has a black glossy frame that doesnt match the grey matt interior too well. Sound is good, but the best thing about it is how fast it is to do anything. Downloading the phone book took less than a second I reckon and radio tuning is instant alsmost. Heaps of CPU grunt and everything is pretty well instantaneous. Gf likes it as it connects to her iphone instantly and streams without a hitch.

Mits certainly dont cross them but is possible that Aeropro have made a bad batch or the wrong ones.

If the factory wires were back to front then the numerous head untis that came factory would also suffer from this issue as well

I have used Aerpro many many times and have never had to touch a single wire, all I do is take out the ISO plug in the middle and solder those wires together as they are known for bad connection on that pin

In VY commodores when using an Alpine to ISO harness you need to swap the 12v and ignition around.

However I've never used the adapters for a Magna, however I just did a 2010 Camry with the Aerpro ISO > Alpine adapter and it was all plug and play aswell no swapping over wires.

Just the aeropro info having a bit of a typo on some of the harnesses they sell, perhaps?

Mits certainly dont cross them but is possible that Aeropro have made a bad batch or the wrong ones.

If the factory wires were back to front then the numerous head untis that came factory would also suffer from this issue as well

I have used Aerpro many many times and have never had to touch a single wire, all I do is take out the ISO plug in the middle and solder those wires together as they are known for bad connection on that pin
I'm going by the infomation on the web and looking at my Aerpro plugs, so not sure whats happening here. Heres the info I'm using:

Mits pinouts (https://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Mitsubishi-Wiring.pdf)
Pin K is +12Volt battery. This is connected to the yellow wire on the Aerpro harness.
Pin G is switched (ign). This is connected to the red wire on the Aerpro harness.

ISO plug pinouts (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connectors_for_car_audio#ISO_10487)
Pin 4 is +12Volt battery - yellow wire on my Aerpro harness is connected to this.
Pin 7 is switched (ign) - red wire on my Aerpro harness is connected to this.

So I've triple checked what I'm seeing on the actual Aerpro harness and the wiring matches with the standard, i.e: red wire is switched, yellow wire is battery.

Installation:
When I installed the Alpine in the KL it failed to retain memory and wouldnt power off correctly. Eventually learned about the crossed power issue, swapped over the red/yellow wires on the Aerpro harness and all is good.
When I installed the Sony in the KH I crossed the wires to start with and its working perfectly, retains memory and powers off correctly.
So based on the above I conclude that the Mits wiring is crossed in the car loom.
I presume that all Mits audio heads built for these cars are matching, ie.: crossed.

Would someone double check my logic here?

Yellow wire (powered up all the time) is thinner than the red wire (powered only on ACC) is something I remembered from the one and only time I've used them.
Perhaps the wiring error is in the radio to ISO section, not the ISO to Magna section? Then again, the wiring looms are subcontracted out (AFAIK), so the error may be there?

How about we just go 'doesn't matter, as long as it works after a bit of a fiddle?' lol

Yellow wire (powered up all the time) is thinner than the red wire (powered only on ACC) is something I remembered from the one and only time I've used them.
Perhaps the wiring error is in the radio to ISO section, not the ISO to Magna section? Then again, the wiring looms are subcontracted out (AFAIK), so the error may be there?

How about we just go 'doesn't matter, as long as it works after a bit of a fiddle?' lol
Max, the wire was probably thinner because thats all that is required to retain memory. Its not actually taking any significant load such as pumping out sound or driving the mechanics. My Aerpro harness has them the same size, which is consistent with them providing lugs so you can cross them over.
I dont know why you think the issue could be with the harness?, based on the links I provided and the info I wrote I'm saying the harness appears to be fully aligned to the standard. That implies that the issue is in the car wiring loom, providing theres no problem with my logic or the info I'm relying on?

Don't overthink things - just swear a bit if you come across this problem again, sort it, carry on. Life's too short.