Hey guys,

Was driving home from work two weeks ago and my TS started making a loud banging sound (metal on metal), coming from under the engine. This disappeared when the vehicle shifted up into a higher gear. The car has been sluggish in low gear for about the six months or so. I haven't driven it since.

I am thinking the TS needs a new transmission but I have also heard the ECU/TCU can cause similar issues? (or anything else I may be missing?)

Has anyone had similar problems? I am also wondering prospectively how much a fair price would be to fix it?

Cheers,

its a 4 cylinder
you had a list of repairs to be done on this car..... how did they go ?
replacing muffler, both drive shafts ,engine belts, timing chain

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84614&p=1343944&highlight=#post1343944

metal to metal noises in that area
could be loose bolts on the flex plate
there still maybe some heat shields on the exhaust pipes near the box

engine mounts .. exhaust ...check the C V joints again

did you run over a shopping trolly :hmm:

when was the tranny last serviced
if no better and the oil is brown and burnt
inspect the oil pan magnets and filter

being sluggish
could be the simple TPS fault
a engine tune

TCU issue without going for fault codes on your TS
to clear the tcu faults disconnect the battery a few minutes ... see if the tranny drives better
tranny ecu is seperate to the engine computer ... can be swapped out .. three plug connectors

could be tranny solenoids ..this could be fixed with the pan off

its beyond the cars value to rebuild one of these automatics
plenty TS s still around at the wreckers parts with a limited warranty

Hey,

yeh all the repairs in 2011 went fine, the only problem i have had since then was a minor coolant leak which has been fixed up.

Speaking of disconnecting the battery, the car actually leaks charge so i have to disconnect the battery every night or it will die in about 72 hours. If it is disconnected every night it runs fine, have been doing this for about two years now.

I opened up the console today but didnt have the right tool to unscrew the TCU, gonna buy one tomorrow so i cant take it out and have a look.

I am hoping the problem is as simple as replacing the TCU, really dont want to have to junk it

Tcu on the four Cyl Tr/TS is under the glove box attached to the floor pan area

a star or phillips is required to undo that TCU

dont forget to make sure the earth wire for the unit ... goes back on under one of the mounting screws

power leak

have the headlight fuses been blowing ?

a draw can be from under the engine bay bocl of relays and fuses

start by looking at these

alternator and .battery condition
battery terminals and relays
clean the earths strap to chassis
the starter solenoid and starter
fault at the ign barrel

Wouldn't be the first time that the boot light stays on due to a faulty switch.
Suggest you end the 2 years suffering from excessive parasitic drain on the battery.
Just how much current is flowing out of this battery with everything off?

:redface:I really didnt know .aqua .

i didnt even see the lid switch

may be every boot i opened the bulb was blown

It must be in there somewhere!
Unless the TP sedan is a cheapy'd version of the magnificent Mitsu models.

Mind you - 2 days to flatten a battery represents maybe around a 0.8 amp load.
That seems a bit more than just one little boot light bulb.

i dont know sedans

have to wait till Ja4x replies again on this draw problem

just looked up the TR/TS wiring diagrams ... not that helpful when trying to trace a battery draw

I have all black and white layouts in the repair manual

Hey, sorry for the delay, had to fly around the cape for work,

I dont know much about the draw problem, i dont have a multimeter, the headlights have been fine, battery is only about 18 months old

I finally got the TCU out,

http://s12.postimg.org/pbyqkoct9/IMG_6472.jpg

http://s30.postimg.org/4herjlu0x/IMG_6487.jpg

I am not sure how to get the circuit board off the plate as it is held on by the clips on the right of the first photo, any idea? i understand that the connections on the back can be brown/discoloured if the board is damaged,

The second photo is the main capacitor, i see some black/scorch marks below and to the right of the capacitor around the node there labelled 'C3' (although it is written upside down)

Could this be causing the original issues with the transmission? Would be worth replacing the TCU?

Cheers,

good spotting
its usually that diode with the blue mark that blows apart

anyone else think
that round one blue mark looks newer than the rest in your pictures .

burnt anything in not good
you do have to know whats happened there


this write up and DIY TCU repair first post has pictures of units and the other side of that main board .. also ECU

.http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105097



option
a second hand tcu from a wrecker should be ok to find at a reasonable price
has to be out of a four cyl auto either TR/TS
..sposed to have the same number on the box and the three plug inputs

The diode Z101 (zener diode?) top/left to the large capacitor (with the blue mark) kind of looks like it has a dry solder joint.
Wouldn't hurt to resolder it.

I bought a new TCU on ebay, i live very remote and wasn't able to find anything locally,

I will update once it arrive!

Thanks for the quick reply

To update the outcome with this, the new TCU fixed the hard gear changes and improved power in low gear, so that was good. It did not fix the loud banging in low gear. I found out this was the air filter lid popping due to the engine back-firing, replaced the fuel filter which seems to have fixed this. The electrical problems came down to deteriorating alternator, this has now been replaced and with increased power a lot of the electrical systems are functioning better than they were previously.