So, as most of you know by now, I'm getting another 3rd gen in July.

By then it will have been sitting since October 2015 until February 2016, then again from February 2016 to July of 2016. So it will have been sitting for a while, with the odd start up and drive. Also will have its battery replaced.

Other than the obvious, engine oil and filter, what else should I be looking at doing before the leaves Sydney for the 3hr drive to Canberra?

Will be taking a rocker cover gasket and a set of 3 tube seals up with me to replace them, but other than that, is there anything that I should be looking at doing whilst I'm up there for the weekend?

Thanks guys!

Trans fluid.

The 3 hour drive will probably tell you enough to know what needs doing when you get it home.

Before the trip, check all fluid levels, drive belts for condition. Check tyre pressure, look in boot for spare condition and tools to change wheel. Do the drive relaxed and steady.

After the trip, check trans fluid for colour, change engine oil and filter, coolant, check condition/tension of drive belts and check service records if any to see if the cam belt etc needs doing. Check underbody, exhaust, condition of brake pads and discs.
Pull the front plug connections and look for oil down the tube.

The 3 hour drive will probably tell you enough to know what needs doing when you get it home.

Before the trip, check all fluid levels, drive belts for condition. Check tyre pressure, look in boot for spare condition and tools to change wheel. Do the drive relaxed and steady.

After the trip, check trans fluid for colour, change engine oil and filter, coolant, check condition/tension of drive belts and check service records if any to see if the cam belt etc needs doing. Check underbody, exhaust, condition of brake pads and discs.
Pull the front plug connections and look for oil down the tube.

Thanks for the advice Max. Being an auto, I will do as Neo suggested and flush the transmission fluid before I leave Sydney.

The car has roughly 140k kms on it, not 100% sure when the timing belt was done last, but will ask the seller.

Being a Ralliart the rear discs will be hard to come by. One thing I will get installed as a preventative measure, is a thermostatically controlled transmission fluid cooler.

The car has roughly 140k kms on it, not 100% sure when the timing belt was done last, but will ask the seller.


Stop me if I'm repeating myself here . . . lol

It's an expensive service if done in a workshop, the owner would know and be able to show you evidence in the service booklet and/or a sticker on the timing belt cover. If he says "Not sure, I think so" interpret that as a definite "No!".

(Playing around with a 2001 Kia Spectra my grand-daughter bought but changed her mind and wants me to tidy up and sell on. It has 175,000 km on the original 15 year old cam belt - it is the same as the Magna, 5 years or 100,000 km change interval specified. Not changing it, next owner will just need to take his chances. Once around the block is all I'm prepared to drive in it. lol)

If you have limited time in Sydney you should consider just checking the things over (engine oil, trans oil). It's not use putting yourself behind time unless you have a whole day to do these sorts of things. 3 hour drive isn't too much even for the more poorly conditioned magnas.

Hell I drove mine back 15 hours no stops after a few checks and a few more sub zero degree checks in the middle of the trip. I didn't skip a beat. Well... maybe it did skip a few beats because it didn't have an idle stepper motor :)

If you have limited time in Sydney you should consider just checking the things over (engine oil, trans oil). It's not use putting yourself behind time unless you have a whole day to do these sorts of things. 3 hour drive isn't too much even for the more poorly conditioned magnas.

This. Just basic checks of fluid, and a sedate drive back. Then the serious work.

As others have said, check fluid levels and condition, brake pads, tyres, etc and make sure all the electrics work ie headlights, wipers etc.

Have you asked about the condition of the body and paint under the wrap? Pretty sure vinyl wrap has a life 'expectancy' of around 5 years and i'd imagine this is approaching that? I've heard rumours of what's lurking under the wrap (unsubstantiated so won't repeat them), so i'd definitely be asking so you know what to expect when you inevitably have to remove it.

Have you asked about the condition of the body and paint under the wrap? Pretty sure vinyl wrap has a life 'expectancy' of around 5 years and i'd imagine this is approaching that? I've heard rumours of what's lurking under the wrap (unsubstantiated so won't repeat them), so i'd definitely be asking so you know what to expect when you inevitably have to remove it.

That's something I should have already asked but haven't... Just asked the seller about the paint condition and how long it's been wrapped.

I've heard those rumours too but only from one source. I am hoping it is just rumours and that it isn't what I've been told by the other person...

If you have limited time in Sydney you should consider just checking the things over (engine oil, trans oil). It's not use putting yourself behind time unless you have a whole day to do these sorts of things. 3 hour drive isn't too much even for the more poorly conditioned magnas.

Hell I drove mine back 15 hours no stops after a few checks and a few more sub zero degree checks in the middle of the trip. I didn't skip a beat. Well... maybe it did skip a few beats because it didn't have an idle stepper motor :)

I have the Saturday and Sunday to do whatever is needed. I will most likely get the fluids flushed and changed in Sydney as I don't really have the tools here in Canberra. Hopefully some of the NSW guys will help me out if I ask nicely :P

Okay, time for some clarification on the rumours.

I asked the seller, he said that a small area of the car was repaired, but the wrap was going on the car, so he didn't get it painted. So the car isn't "full of bog" as some have been led to believe....

Definitely clears up in my mind that the Ninja is the car I hoped it would be.

Getting back on topic, is there anything else I should look at doing or is it all basically covered now?

Good to know there's no bog under the wrap but did you find out about the clearcoat?
That's basically what i was referring to. I believe it had clearcoat lift on roof and bonnet and was wrapped rather than resprayed? I've never seen it so i don't know, again, just rumours i've heard but at least you can ask and find out before you buy it. Always do your research :)

Good to know there's no bog under the wrap but did you find out about the clearcoat?
That's basically what i was referring to. I believe it had clearcoat lift on roof and bonnet and was wrapped rather than resprayed? I've never seen it so i don't know, again, just rumours i've heard but at least you can ask and find out before you buy it. Always do your research :)

Clearcoat had no lift at all when the wrap was put down. I've heard rumours about it too, but rumours are rumours. Much better to get the information from the horses mouth :)

So no one knows what is under the wrap, really. But there may be potential problems if wrap was used instead of a more expensive spray job to repair paint problems.

Check wrapped surfaces for smoothness, any patched but unsealed repair areas will still be prone to rusting by absorbing moisture through the wrap, and lifting repairs under the wrap should be easy to spot.

An deteriorated clearcoat hidden under the wrap would provide poor adhesion, but no idea on how to check for that - lifting or bubbling bits perhaps?

If wrap has a limited life expectancy, better judge for yourself how much life is left in it. And park it in the shade where possible.

either fill with e10 fuel or Chuck 1/2 a bottle of metho in the tank - when a car sits for so long in summer weather it will suck some humid air in and out of the tank and condense a bit of water - the metho will put the water into a combustible mixture. Engine oil will contain some water too, but that generally evaporates as the engine warns but you should change every 6 months anyway.

If it is (has) been sitting in the same position for nearly a year, I would advise moving the car when possible (prior to its next big sleep) to avoid the tyres getting flat spots. IE take it for a drive..
You could also lift the car and chock it whilst it sleeps...so as to remove a lot of the weight from the tyres to prevent flatspotting.

And for your trip...a can of tyre slime (puncture repair goo in a can) to avoid you having to change a tyre along the way. Last thing you want to do is be on the side of the road changing tyres in the rain! (Or you can come to Tas in winter and do it in the snow...not pleasant!)

just make sure all the fluids are topped up and there's no obvious leaks. I find with cars that have been sitting a while the brakes can be a bit funny, go easy on them and do a few laps around the block to make sure they are working well before getting on the hwy. they might have rust on the rotors, the pistons might be a bit sticky or the fluid might have moisture.

other than that make sure your RACV or whatever cover is up to date with the car details.

no point doing the rocker gasket/tube seals if they aren't leaking badly, better to do it properly when you've got the time rather than rushing it.

Thanks for the overwhelming amount of responses guys! Definitely gives me idea and food for thought.

Attempting to gather up parts now so am on the lookout for Ralliart bits (Enkei's, floor mats, new steering wheel, badge etc.)

Make sure to keep checking my ride thread for updates!