I replaced the right (drivers) side engine mount not long ago, but I did notice some splitting of the left side. I left it but there's now noticeable engine vibration/pulsing again under load so i'd say the left side has gotten worse and is now in need of replacement. Is there anything special to replacing it or basically the same procedure as the right?

its easy, jack the engine/gearbox up to take the weight, remove the bolts, change the mount.
No different to the other side.

Obviously, make sure the jack is high enough and/or low enough that the whole engine doesn't shift under force when it is removed, but as you loosen off all the bolts it'll be pretty evident if that's going to happen.

I've read here some people had difficulty getting that mount out, doing a search might find those threads/posts.

What mounts will you use as replacements?

This thread http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103138&page=1

Seems like it might be a PITA. If its not normally like that, and normally just pops out then i'll give it a go (want confirmation from people who've done it)
Otherwise i'll take it somewhere

Will be using a kelpro mount. I put a kelpro on the drivers side and it was smooth as butter, just as smooth as OEM

Kelpro is a good brand?
How much are they?
What about the roll stoppers?

FLAPPING MITSUBISHI! This 'would' be an easy job if they didn't make the damn studs so long. I decided to pick up a mount and get on with it, since supposedly only 'some' people have issues with it. Well my studs were about 3mm too long after dropping the transmission as far as possible, and removing the rear roll stopper center bolt. The problem is partially the studs but also the 4 triangular supports that hit the frame, photos...


https://dl2.pushbulletusercontent.com/1MjjLYNbokD4T6hpWQ9YOipf7l3ERjsL/IMG_20160330_131028.jpg
https://dl2.pushbulletusercontent.com/1XYWHSccGzabULomywVS3VXdTjFl0imj/IMG_20160330_131010.jpg

Anyway mid-job and being so close I decided to remove the center bolt from the drivers side, jack the engine up a bit. Only after that did I come back inside and read that I should NOT have done that. So fingers crossed no damage to anything (did only jack it up about an inch at the mount). Eventually after a lot of swearing I somehow managed to get the old mount out. The kelpro mount has slightly smaller triangular bracing so I figured i'd be able to get it in, but then I discovered i'm dealing with a complete mount, not one thats had the middle cracked out. Basically I cannot get it in and so now i'm completely missing the transmission mount

I need further help. What needs to come out? In that other thread, mal simply mentions to remove the cross member, rear mount/roll stopper and possibly drive shaft. Ok no worries... until I looked at the manual I see it's a bloody monumental task with A LOT of pieces to remove to get that cross member out. Is the manual correct or do I only need to remove a small fraction of bits to get this job done. And if yes, WHAT do I need to remove?

Oh and how important are the roll stoppers? As I found the rear one is in fact cracked as well, no idea on the front. Ideally i'd like to put off replacing it if possible, budgets a bit tight atm

GOT THE BASTARD!

Ok so you don't need to remove the cross-member and all of the BS that entails, or any other mounts. But my disclaimer on that is my front and rear mounts are in-fact toast and probably make this easier since they had much more flex in them than what they should. And maybe I could have twisted or damaged something but I was pretty stuck at this point, I couldn't drive the car without a trans mount. But I was careful and I couldn't see anything binding or stressed

Remove...
- Rubber intake boot, airbox and intake scoop
- Battery and battery box (trans mount bolt hits it when removing)
- Remove the big plastic mudguard thing under the bumper
- Remove passenger side wheel. May not be necessary but I figure it'll take some of the strain off the engine and let it drop a bit easier, plus gives more room to work



Place jack here

http://s16.postimg.org/545tlnved/IMG_20160331_144122.jpg

It's directly under the cross member where the front mount is. Just make it snug for now, don't lift anything
Loosen off but don't remove the 2 17mm bolts that hold the center-member on

Place another jack here

http://s16.postimg.org/kn39is3p1/IMG_20160331_144056.jpg

It's at the rear of the transmission. Jack the transmission up a little bit, then remove the 3x 14mm bolts that hold the center-member. You don't need to remove the center-member, just let it dangle at the back.

http://s16.postimg.org/40lp9par9/IMG_20160331_144043.jpg

The reason is some of the bolts on the bottom of the transmission will hit it if its left in place, limiting the amount the transmission can drop
Loosen off the transmission mount nuts, remove the center bolt if you can but not essential

Now remove the center bolt in the rear engine mount. You can gain access to this mount from above, it's right in the middle of this pic (has a bit of red paint on the end of the bolt)

http://s16.postimg.org/syz0k112t/IMG_20160331_144004.jpg

Clearance is a bit tricky, you'll need the right length extension bar and/or sockets otherwise you'll have bugger all movement. I needed to use a breaker bar on this one to crack it loose. It's only a 14mm nut so make sure you support the extension bar so it doesn't twist and strip. Highly advise using 6 point sockets as you are facing it at an angle and its easy to twist unintentionally. Also put a 14mm spanner on the bolt on the other side as the bolt will want to twist.
Once the nut is off. Experiment with jacking the transmission up and down (use the rear jack, NOT the front one) to relieve stress on the bolt. At the sweet spot the bolt will pop out with next to no effort

Now remove the 14mm center bolt from the front mount. Access is gained from underneath the car. No need to remove exhaust or anything. Again I had to use a breaker bar on this one
Once again, use a combination of the front and rear jacks to find the sweet spot where the bolt comes out easily. May require a little love-tap but nothing extreme

Now remove all transmission mount bolts if not already

Lower both front and rear jacks as necessary to drop the transmission side, go very slow and wiggle the transmission mount back 'n forth as well as side to side to figure out which side is tight or binding on the studs. The studs don't have to come down far enough to fully clear the mount, just tap or lever the mount upwards and go slowly with lowering to not cause unnecessary stress on anything. Eventually you should be able to get the mount free

Put the 2 rubber 'side ears' on the new mount. The arrow faces DOWN on each. Install the new mount, slightly lower the trans if necessary but again slow and only a bit at a time. In my case I had to tap the mount into the chassis as it was very snug, I used a bit of grease to assist. Roughly line it up with the studs, line up the center bolt and re-insert it. Then start raising the front and rear jacks and basically follow the above in reverse.
Carefully watch the studs to make sure all 4 are going in and not binding. You can grab and rock the engine a bit if necessary to help them pop into place. Just keep raising, checking, raising. Watch the front and rear mounts, if any start to line up then put the center bolts in as soon as you can. Use the front and rear jacks as necessary to help twist the engine into place. Eventually get the nuts onto the trans mount studs and slowly run them down to help lift the trans along with the jacks, only go a bit at a time on each nut so as to not stress the studs


Just an FYI I used Kelpro mounts on the drivers and passenger side, and will do with the front and rear mounts when I can get around to them. Now with the new mount I can't actually feel the car going between Neutral and Drive with the brakes on, and can barely feel gear changes even at WOT. Very, very smooth mounts

Nice write-up (Y)

Is it really necessary to remove the intake manifold though? How does it impede?



Remove...
- Intake manifold, airbox and intake scoop
- Battery and battery box (trans mount bolt hits it when removing)
- Remove the big plastic mudguard thing under the bumper
- Remove passenger side wheel. May not be necessary but I figure it'll take some of the strain off the engine and let it drop a bit easier, plus gives more room to work

Ah when I said intake manifold I mean the rubber intake boot, not the metal one with the 6 cylinders

How much were these Kelpro mounts?
I am sure that the front and rear mounts will have a pretty big effect on smoothness too.

Think I paid something like $215 for the drivers one, $204 for the transmission from Repco. Think they can be had for about $30 cheaper online. Ride is much smoother but there is still a little bit of pulsing going uphill at 110kph so yep it'll be the front and back
Front and back together seem to be about $200ish together

Yep they're expensive compared to shitty polyurethane mounts but this is a comfortable quiet cruiser in excellent condition, not a race car. So i'm happy to pay a bit more for a really nice smooth ride. Plus they should last for the remainder of the cars lifetime. I never want to change that trans mount again

Keep us posted once you do the front and rear mount.
I had my front subframe swapped to a TL one, and it came with the rear mount which made the car surprisingly smoother to drive as well as gearshifts smoother

Just curious, whats special about these Kelpro mounts over genuine? And are they rubber?
Also, the Verada has oil filled mounts as original.

Kelpro, Mckay, Transgold, all about the same in the line of quality

I use Transgold, mainly because I am a dealer for them, have them on all my cars personally and they make special units for me as well.

Genuine mounts are quite expensive, I sell the RH and front / rear roll stop ones for $99.95 as a guide

Madmagna, you previously said that the ones you sell are a bit stiffer than stock. Can you get softer ones too?