Hey everyone, I just started to replace the rocker cover gaskets on my 1997 TF Magna and the pipe on the rear rocker is very rigid and wont come off. Phone Mitsubishi to be told its not available anymore. Where can I get a replacement ? Also with out any torque gauges how tight should the rocket bolts be ? Ive done them so far tight enough that I feel I just nipped them tight. The intake I will do quite tight as they were when I undid them. Thanks for any info.

Unless you are like Mal and you do these every day in and out, IMHO you're crazy to do this job without a torque wrench.

These bolts go into soft alloy so the torque settings is ridiculously low. The covers themselves are very thin. Over tighten and you'll either strip the bolt holes or bend the rocker cover out of shape - and then it's bin fodder.

Also with out any torque gauges how tight should the rocket bolts be ? Ive done them so far tight enough that I feel I just nipped them tight. The intake I will do quite tight as they were when I undid them. Thanks for any info.

Breather pipe - use any length of fuel line with the same internal diameter. My TL has been wearing one for the last 3 years and 50,00 km.

Rocker cover bolts - should be 3.5 Nm. Great if you have calibrated hands, but mere mortals like me use a cute little 1/4 inch torque wrench. And you need to do several laps of the cover, as doing one bolt up squashes the gasket and the tightness of other bolts back off. I do about 3 laps with my cute little torque wrench set to 3.5 Nm. (a strong hint there)

Intake bolts are steel into alloy and tend to 'freeze' after many years, so they take some force to undo. However, if you use the same force to do them up, you will strip some of the lower intake threads. The bolts screw into alloy, remember. Manual says to use your 'calibrated hands' (or a torque wrench) to do them up to 19 Nm.
The same applies to the bolts holding the throttle body on.

For the time and cost of pulling everything apart again, and getting the lower intake helicoilled, you can afford to buy 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch torque wrenches. eBay purchase, reasonably cheap.

/ Lecture warning

Nah, I will skip the bit where I call you a n00b and tell you to get the right tools before you even start this job. lol

/end lecture.

Breather pipe - use any length of fuel line with the same internal diameter. My TL has been wearing one for the last 3 years and 50,00 km.

.

NO NO and NO

Breather hose is not fuel hose. It is not heater hose and is not a garden hose either (like one mechanic thought)

You can get the 380 hose still or better still modify a NL/M/P hose to fit. That is what we do now days.

Strange thing is that MKay make these, I contacted them to enquire about getting a big batch made, they told me they could not because Mits had another order on the go but Mits know nothing about this

Looks like Mackay sell it in bulk lengths (1.5M to 50M) and various diameters, though obviously without the strategically placed kinks so it'd look kinda nasty. I assume they only sell to trade, not direct to the public?

Hey everyone, thanks for the great replies. Firstly i had already started to remove everything with out the right tools, big noob mistake :( Then a mate of mine had the torque wrench so i borrowed that and with the very useful info from MADMAX i adjusted and tightened correctly. Based on MadMagna NO NO NO statement i went to the local scrap yard and found a 2003 breather hose. Put all together and washed up nicely. She's running great thank to you all. Felt brave and started the same on my 2003 TJ wagon, all went well except when i had to degrease and clean off she wouldn't start. After some WD40 she fired up and seemed happy until I drove it and when it changes to second gear she produces and engine light. Not sure what to short to get codes, but I have removed 80% of connections and WD40 them too to ensure removal of all water, there are a few cables left on the gearbox i couldn't get to due to engine heat will try to clean them today, meanwhile she will have to sit on the drive way as i couldn't afford to go limp home mode with the kids in the car. Thanks to you all who replied it really helped and made me think more about tackling jobs.

Two electrical sensors on the gearbox, input and output shaft speed sensors. Get water in those connectors and the gearbox gets upset.

A possibility, anyway.

Two electrical sensors on the gearbox, input and output shaft speed sensors. Get water in those connectors and the gearbox gets upset.

A possibility, anyway.

found this image, engine light and anti lock are both just flashing no real pattern.

changed ground location and the engine light is flashing by its self, but no patter.

All good and fixed, thanks everyone.

Two electrical sensors on the gearbox, input and output shaft speed sensors. Get water in those connectors and the gearbox gets upset.

A possibility, anyway.
I never new that! I'll have to remember next time I'm cleaning and flushing around there because the area easily traps moisture in the transmission housing surfaces.

Never experienced it myself, but I know if one of those sensors fails, the gearbox goes into limp mode.
I'm assuming water in the connections wouldn't be good.
Don't know how well sealed they are from moisture, but maybe cover them with plastic before you get happy with a hose under the bonnet? Can't hurt.