RPW's web site said basically what they do to the TB's. Basically it said that the original TB's were restrictive and could be easily machined to allow more flow.

I was bored one day so I thought I'd take a look inside mine to see what the restriction was. so I removed it (very easy to do and took about an hour - could be done faster though i was being very careful and taking note where everything came from so it could all be put back on later). when you pull it off you will see that inside the body it is basically a cylinder or a pipe. Where the butterfly sits in the body, the pipe's inside diameter actually becomes smaller. This is not really the problem. what is the problem is that where the pipe diameter reduces, it reduces quickly, at a sharp angle, and remains at the reduced size for a short distance either side of the butterfly. what I did was machined away all the excess metal and just left only enough metal to allow the butterfly to close properly. The metal it is made from is only alloy and was easy to remove and reshape. And I used a die grinder to do the machining.

I figured instead of paying $400 or whatever it was for the TB, I saved $200 and bought the best Dremel Multi Tool instead.

All up this took about 3hours from start to finish. The result in performance was noticeable from the instant when I gave it a rev as I started the car. throttle response is now amazing compared with original. Wide open throttle gains are minor and not very noticeable, but part throttle response is great. although the overall kW figures would be not much greater than original, the car now puts you back in the seat as you take off.

I could'nt have said it better my self

thanks Smoker! I'll take it you had the same idea as me when you did yours then?

Can I borrow your Dremel ? ? :)

Yeah i clicked when i herd there was a hi-flow and oversize t/b so i took mine off and had a look, i went a little to far sometimes mine stick's shut when it's cold

but yeah very easy to do with a die grinder or Dremel

got good gains out of it too!!!!

here are some pic's

Yeah i clicked when i herd there was a hi-flow and oversize t/b so i took mine off and had a look, i went a little to far sometimes mine stick's shut when it's cold

but yeah very easy to do with a die grinder or Dremel

got good gains out of it too!!!!

oh really? would Bunnings have the cone shaped Dies ? how did you make it smooth? I wanted to do it too, but I didn't have a drinder nor Dremel

Bunnings have the lot... Once i removed the TB and decided it was easy enough to do.. I took my wifes work car (TJ Wagon) down to my local bunnings, where i got the dremel, and the bits. There was quite a variety of bits available and I bought a few different ones which looked like they would be fit for the purpose. I tried each of them briefly and then used the best one for most of the job.

I think the carbide bits would be better than the stone type bits.

If there is anyone in North Queensland with a gen 3 who wants this done... I would be happy to do/help etc. It would be a great opportunity to take some pics and write a full story, step by step, so everyone can do it.

++++
Greetings All.

Pictures?? Pictures of the tool?? I would be willing to try this...is it hard??

Cheers,
--Tonba
++++

If there is anyone in North Queensland with a gen 3 who wants this done... I would be happy to do/help etc. It would be a great opportunity to take some pics and write a full story, step by step, so everyone can do it.

another question, did you remove the Butterfly when you grinded the step? or ???

Pictures would have been good!!!

Next group buy should be digicams!!! :badgrin:

Pictures would have been good!!!

Next group buy should be digicams!!! :badgrin:

there's pic's on the frist page

and i took my butterfly out......2 screw's

I thought about pics at the time, but didn't have enough time.... I don't think I removed the butterfly when i did it.. i just held it open and was very careful not to hit it with the grinder. When you do this you should be very careful not to take too much metal away, to ensure that your butterfly seals when it is closed. But you also want to grind away right up to this point. so leaving the butterfly in place allows you to let it close easily to continually check how much you still need to grind away.

THSmoker has now posted a couple of pics in his first post which shows the inside of an unmodified throttle body.you can see the sharp step up to the butterfly. It doesn't look like much on the photo, and doesn't look like much more in the flesh, but it makes a huge difference at take off!

Heh heh... I made my own adjustment for the throttle body and it was absolutely free. I just put my foot down more than before :bowrofl:

Heh heh... I made my own adjustment for the throttle body and it was absolutely free. I just put my foot down more than before :bowrofl:

thats not free, costs more in petrol!!! lol

thats not free, costs more in petrol!!! lol
Heh heh... and the throttle body doesn't?

I figured instead of paying $400 or whatever it was for the TB, I saved $200 and bought the best Dremel Multi Tool instead.

Congratulations on doing it yourself. :thumbsup: Glad it turned out good. Bad news is that I think you only saved yourself $20 since if I remember correctly the RPW item only costs $220. :(

Congratulations on doing it yourself. :thumbsup: Glad it turned out good. Bad news is that I think you only saved yourself $20 since if I remember correctly the RPW item only costs $220. :(

I recon he got a good value, he paid about $200 for a hi-flow TB and a Dremel Tool. RPW only gets you a TB ehehhe lol

Good point! I stand corrected :D

i noticed inside my t/b bored out by rpw that the butterfly had been left in when they machined it, so it seems if youre careful u can leave it in.

I just got a quote from RPW for the Hi-flow throttle body. I'm not game to do it myself - $385 initial - $110 money back on return of the original TB. Thats $285 all up ... and no dremel for me :redface:

sounds cool i some of you guys are hard up for $$$ i bought a dremel clone from the warehouse vic i think in QLD there sollys or clarks any way they are $60 with attachments i got mine 18 months ago still goes

Congratulations on doing it yourself. :thumbsup: Glad it turned out good. Bad news is that I think you only saved yourself $20 since if I remember correctly the RPW item only costs $220. :(

Can't remember how much each of them cost as it was early this year.. I do remember the dremel was approx half the price of the TB.

$285 for half an hours work. bl00dy hell. used to be $220 like a few months ago.

here is another theory, take off your TB, take it to repco (or any machining shop) and have it bored out a few mm. on your way home pick up a 2mm sheet of aloy or brass or any non corrosive metal and make a new butterfly with first a hacksaw, then file/die grinder then tap some new thread and bolt it to the original shaft.

no need to worry about different tps
no need to worry about cruise

its the identical tb just flows much better, and more than the high flowed rpw number because its only flown, not bored :cool:

just a question though, don't you need to also bore the intake plenum in this case?

here is another theory, take off your TB, take it to repco (or any machining shop) and have it bored out a few mm. on your way home pick up a 2mm sheet of aloy or brass or any non corrosive metal and make a new butterfly with first a hacksaw, then file/die grinder then tap some new thread and bolt it to the original shaft.

no need to worry about different tps
no need to worry about cruise

its the identical tb just flows much better, and more than the high flowed rpw number because its only flown, not bored :cool:

Forget about doing this, Magna throttle bodies are not a straight thru hole, they are offset.Thats why there are no more oversize ones!! (they get to thin etc.,)

Forget about doing this, Magna throttle bodies are not a straight thru hole, they are offset.Thats why there are no more oversize ones!! (they get to thin etc.,)

yes and the butterfly is 65mm anyway, so plenty big for a n/a V6.

yes and the butterfly is 65mm anyway, so plenty big for a n/a V6.
If it was plenty big, why do Commodore owners get 68mm and larger? If the butterfly is 65mm, then the effective dia of the TB won't be 65mm, especially considering it has this step. Plus the three cars that had the 65mm unit showed a gain from installation.

If it was plenty big, why do Commodore owners get 68mm and larger? If the butterfly is 65mm, then the effective dia of the TB won't be 65mm, especially considering it has this step. Plus the three cars that had the 65mm unit showed a gain from installation.

its usually the V8 commos and falcons, or serious turbo buildups that go to 70-80mm t/b's, also by taking out the step u get the 65mm on the magna otherwise its smaller. im not saying machining them out to get rid of the restriction isnt good just that the factory butterfly is already big.

Yes magna'a have a 65mm butterfly in there T/B but they dont flow 65mm they only flow
about 61mm, here's a rough as guts pic i made

the red line and dot is the butterfly and the blue and black is the T/B housing
all i did was grind out the blue parts

And RPW don't machine the throttle bodies out to a larger size anymore as they had problems with the larger butterfly sticking.. so I just flowed mine like they now do.

I figured that they had done more of these than I had, so I'd just follow suit.

Don't go overboard grinding too much away from the closed/idle area as it is there to provide a smooth transition from idle to part throttle. There are also areas behind the butterfly and to the rear of the T/B bore which can be ground away for improved flow. I have a RPW hi flowed T/B. If you look thru the T/B with the butterfly wide open you can see some stepped areas of the plenum face which could cause turbulence to the air flow. I'm sure the plenum face could be marked and ground to match the rear of the T/B for further improvement. I will investigate further when I get time. Have a look yourself. :D

even commodores with a few bolt on mods get thier 65mm t/b bored to 69mm but dosnt really make a big difference, but has more of an effect on forced induction engines.

I think that I did grind "too much" from around the closed butterfly position. I however think this is better. As you said the transition between idle and part throttle is touchy, but it is easy to get used to, and after driving it for half an hour you can easily control the throttle.

Why i think this is better is that when you want power quick - like from standstill at the lights - there is no hesitation in the car. As soon as the throttle opens the car launches and you become pressed into the seat.

Before the TB was modified, there was a hesitation for a short period as the butterfly opened. If 2 cars were placed side by side in a drag, one ground a little and one ground "too much", the one ground "too much" would be half a car length ahead, straight after launch.

That's my thoughts anyway!


And as for matchporting the plenum.. I didn't think about it at the time. However you do have an excellent point and I will endeavour to look at this in the future. I think I did notice at the time that the inside surface of the plenum was rough (like the outside) from the casting. There would also be slight gains from smoothing this out.

If you were to match port the plenum to the Throttle body, you would need to remove the plenum from the car to ensure the waste did not enter the engine. I think if I did remove the plenum to match it, I would also have a crack at smoothing it out.

Hey clubmounsey,
mate you should see when you pull off your manifold.........its a shocker!!!!!!
where the manifold bolts onto the head (wish i had some pic's) there's atleast a 2mm - 3mm lip
as in the manifold sits too low in the vally and you can see 2mm of the head (bottom of port)
sticking up

looks like 2 gaskit's should do the job to raise the manifold so the ports match up.........im going to do this soon so ill get some pic's then

Smoker

Excellent work guys!! :D

Before the TB was modified, there was a hesitation for a short period as the butterfly opened. If 2 cars were placed side by side in a drag, one ground a little and one ground "too much", the one ground "too much" would be half a car length ahead, straight after launch.
Which is why you just put your foot down a little more and you don't need to worry about grinding anything out :D

Which is why you just put your foot down a little more and you don't need to worry about grinding anything out :D

But then you don't get to play with you rengine :D.

This is awsome stuff guys, increasing the efficiency of the OEM parts, relativlly cheap plus you get to do it yourself :P

I however think this is better. As you said the transition between idle and part throttle is touchy, but it is easy to get used to, and after driving it for half an hour you can easily control the throttle.
Why i think this is better is that when you want power quick - like from standstill at the lights - there is no hesitation in the car. As soon as the throttle opens the car launches and you become pressed into the seat.

Yep, that's what it does. It took me few weeks to learn to feather the gas pedal and now I'm enjoying an easy 5-10 % lesser consumption in City driving. Noticed how it just keep pulling on 4. gear at 60 km/H on a slight up hill and doesn't cry - even on a 3 L donk?
But - I think HiFlo TB is more beneficial on Auto boxes. So Redav - stop hassling us with your Freak 3 L Manual..... :cry:

Yep, that's what it does. It took me few weeks to learn to feather the gas pedal and now I'm enjoying an easy 5-10 % lesser consumption in City driving. Noticed how it just keep pulling on 4. gear at 60 km/H on a slight up hill and doesn't cry - even on a 3 L donk?
But - I think HiFlo TB is more beneficial on Auto boxes. So Redav - stop hassling us with your Freak 3 L Manual..... :cry:

i found it was upshifting too early and not kicking down enough after getting the hiflo t/b,
adjusting tps switch fixed that tho. and yeh it takes a while to learn to hold on 60kmh with it too lol

It was interesting looking at your diagram TH Smoker.

Could (or is) part of the purpose of the 'step' (the lead in to the butterfly) there to ensure minimal direct air hits the outer edges of the butterfly itself, thus allowing the butterfly to open easier from closed position?
Why do I ask? there may be some benefit in having a little step there if it is going to assist the initial opening on throttle. I am very keen to do this too.
One other thing, I think it was mentioned that the inner surface of the Plenum is rough. I thought that having a roughened surface actually assisted air flow? or at least this was taught to me. Surface friction.

after our exams, Neil, you wanna get together and grind our T/Bs?
is your Greddy installed yet?

I think Redav's just pissed cause he can only perform "Bolt On" modifications! :redface: He can put his foot down as far as he likes but his TB will still only be 85% efficient.

Sorry Redav - I couldn't ignore you anymore!

It was interesting looking at your diagram TH Smoker.

Could (or is) part of the purpose of the 'step' (the lead in to the butterfly) there to ensure minimal direct air hits the outer edges of the butterfly itself, thus allowing the butterfly to open easier from closed position?

yeah that sounds about right, make's sence.........although my t/b stic's even when the car is off!

I don't reckon your TB sticks from removing too much material. Would think it could be from the surface to which the butterfly seals being slightly rougher from the grinding process. Like the grinding has lifted a very small bit of alloy up, but not completely removed it. This roughness is causing friction on the edge of the fly.

Anyhow - I also reckon that if you possess the skills to carry out this mod in the first place, I reckon that you would possess the ability to find the cause and rectify the problem. Just take your time to inspect it properly.

i don't think its cause you took too much off - if you took excess off, then it could not rub and stick as it would not be touching anything to stick on.

I think Redav's just pissed cause he can only perform "Bolt On" modifications! :redface: He can put his foot down as far as he likes but his TB will still only be 85% efficient.

Sorry Redav - I couldn't ignore you anymore!

Heh heh... no probs. I'm just lazy and have different plans for the TB.


One other thing, I think it was mentioned that the inner surface of the Plenum is rough. I thought that having a roughened surface actually assisted air flow? or at least this was taught to me. Surface friction.
Well, if this was the case, why would companies and motorsport teams invest time and money into things like extrude honing? All a rough surface along the flow path will do is promote cavitation, air pockets and turbulence which will effectively reduce the diameter of the pipe etc.

Just like to bring back this topic to thank everyone, but Redav :bowrofl:

Decided to go buy the dremel and try some 'newbie' mechanic's, as a P plater and only having noticed how beautifully complex. Anyhow reading the article and having never done anything more than put oil and water in my car I thought it sounded too easy to potentially get a high flow throttle body.

Most of the time was spent getting the ****er off.. lack of tools, exp ... but really ill tell you its the lack of 12mm rachet to get the one last screw from the paralell side of the engine bay, got it eventually. Also I experienced what it was like leaving the MAF sensor unplugged, scary.

Well im ****ing stoked with the outcome, no longer hesitates at launch yay! Accelerator also is nice and sensitive the way I like it, but say goodbye to chillin on 60, likes to accelerate beyond. I didnt do a very 'even' grinding either, I left the butterfly on so i could makesure it wont stick like another user was discussing earlier in the topic but i definatly took 3-4 mm from the lip around the butterfly, the rest was wide..

-BTW dont waste $20 on a good carbide metal cutter tip, they melt within afew mins of use..


THANKYOU DIY GODS

Congratulations Genocide!! Good to see that I have helped someone else enjoy their own DIY TB.

The stone type bits should not be used for alloy (they can explode) which is why I went for the carbide bits. And if you keep them cool they will not melt. When I performed this operation I was going very slowly and smoothly, only taking off very small amounts at a time, not pressing too hard with the dremel. The carbide bit may also chock up with the alloy if using it hard. So everybody who wants to try this, go nice and slow, press lightly and take a bit longer to make your job perfect. If the bit starts to get hot, go and get a small bucket of water, and dip the bit in to cool it.. leave the bucket beside you and then every few minutes dip it in again for a few seconds. Doing this will prevent it from melting.
Genocide - just check your bit that it hasn't just chocked up with the alloy you have been grinding out... If it has you might be able to dig it out with a scriber or something.

I also have a fairly comprehensive tool kit at home which obviously helped me out. Having the right tools sure helps but as Genocide has said here, minimal tools are required for this job - It might just take a little extra thinking or time.

And as Genocide has said he is just a newbie with bugger all mechanical experience - so if he can do it - EVERYBODY should be able to.

Once again well done genocide.. ENJOY!!

Cheers

ok, anyone in VIC wanna do mine? cos im pretty crap at doin stuff on my own

Just like to bring back this topic to thank everyone, but Redav :bowrofl:
No worries, can you do mine? :bowrofl:

I'll do yours Redav... just slip up here to Townsville one arvo!! lol

with the butterfly sticking...would either getting a heavier return spring made up or making one do? i rekon sum one should give it a go

get a polishing bit for the die grinder and smooth it out so it doesn't stick.

No worries, can you do mine? :bowrofl:Come over one weekend to the new house .. and we will do them both. (Serious)
Haydn

What about wet sanding it after to smooth it out more, like polishing it??? Would this help air flow.

I'm in vic and keen to get mine done also

Does anybody know what one of these (the TB) from mitsubishi costs if someone were to stuff up the thing by trying?

Does anybody know what one of these (the TB) from mitsubishi costs if someone were to stuff up the thing by trying?

2nd hand one wouldnt hurt, probably around 50-100$ from wreckers

Awesome, im going to buy a dremel later this week then

after our exams, Neil, you wanna get together and grind our T/Bs?
is your Greddy installed yet?
Sorry, I missed your posting WhiteDevil.
Sounds like a plan, I am thinking that Articuno will be more than happy to get involved too.
I'll bring the angle grinder ok!
My study schedule is all over the shop at the moment... just have to pick a roungh timeframe and I will try to lock in an available day.
Oh and the GReddy, it has moved from the lounge room into the bedroom. One day....one day!!! see if the taxman is going to be generous!

get a polishing bit for the die grinder and smooth it out so it doesn't stick.
Excellent idea Jason - That's all I think it would need.


I'll bring the angle grinder ok!
Just bring your die grinder - else you might be able to quote the exact price for a TB from the wrecker

Cheers

I am in T'ville and wouldn't mind doing this to mine. I will give you a yell when I have a chance as I am flat out with work at the moment.

Cheers
Paul

Sorry, I missed your posting WhiteDevil.
Sounds like a plan, I am thinking that Articuno will be more than happy to get involved too.
I'll bring the angle grinder ok!
My study schedule is all over the shop at the moment... just have to pick a roungh timeframe and I will try to lock in an available day.
Oh and the GReddy, it has moved from the lounge room into the bedroom. One day....one day!!! see if the taxman is going to be generous!


ooh ooh!! i want in!!! but i cant contribute mechanically....... i can provide the beers though.....

I dunno, do you people have much planned in the first couple weeks of Jan? Work should be relaxed and it's Holidays for people going to school. A weekend would be best of both worlds then, people who works can come and there shouldn't be any problems with people who go to school/uni. The next thing is though we need a kinda big area to park all our cars and won't get in trouble with. Who's got space? Perferrabily under cover too! hahaha...

I have access to place, but it'll only fit 2 cars max! it's under cover though. And it's on an slight incline.

and also somewhere that i can get up. so mals place is out of the question..... (not that he was offering....) :D

I'd be interested in doing it with the melbourne boys too!

I'd be interested in doing it with the melbourne boys too!

Hope no one takes that quote out of context :P

Come over one weekend to the new house .. and we will do them both. (Serious)
HaydnI've got a RPW Throttle body that needs to be fitted too. You guys might be interesting in checking it out. (And helping me install it :bowrofl: )

I fit a RB20 TB to a RB30 this week with minor die grinding, sanded the inside of the TB and plenum for hours and its very very smooth now. 300 w/d paper did the trick

I haven't read all seven pages, from top to bottom, but is there a possible disadvantage to this? Does it muck up factory settngs? and make your car run rich on fuel?

Not that I've noticed Canberra - my economy hasn't changed too much. Obviously if you are getting more power quicker down low because it is flowing more air, then the ECU would be opening the injectors longer to provide more fuel for the extra air, so it would probably a little higher consumption, but when you get used to it and feather it more, this would reduce back to normal.

I've got a RPW Throttle body that needs to be fitted too. You guys might be interesting in checking it out. (And helping me install it :bowrofl: ) NP.
In a few weeks Ill be settled in my new house and we can make a day of it :)
Got about 3 throttle bodies to modify.. and yours to fut :)

Haydn

Once you've adjusted to the increase in responsiveness of the go pedal, you shouldn't notice an increase in fuel consumption. Removing this lip gives an almost identical result to having a heavier foot. It all just happens to happen earlier in the opening of the throttle.

What Redav says is correct. The added responsiveness is because of this.
At WOT, the flow would be slightly higher, but not huge.

redav, its so hard to explain that to people :rant: they think they are gaining all this power down low from it :confused:

redav, its so hard to explain that to people :rant: they think they are gaining all this power down low from it :confused:
I know. I don't think it's a bad mod as some are after something that's just more responsive. I think some have perceived it to be something else. clubmounsey, agreed.

'scuse the ignorance, am I right in understanding that the ported and polished throttlebody just brings the power band sooner? It doesn't add KW's, just get's to them faster?

You know how sluggish the 3Ls are with full load of passengers or when towing, would the modded TB help in overcoming that sluggishness off the line?

'scuse the ignorance, am I right in understanding that the ported and polished throttlebody just brings the power band sooner? It doesn't add KW's, just get's to them faster?
You're excused. No, it doesn't bring the power band sooner. If it add's kW's, it's negligeable. It's just the throttle opens more sooner which is the same as putting your foot down more than usual.


You know how sluggish the 3Ls are with full load of passengers or when towing, would the modded TB help in overcoming that sluggishness off the line?
No.

Mmmmmmbugger! So apart from selling and buying a 3.5L, anyway I can overcome the slug?

Mmmmmm.......Turbo it!!! :bowrofl:

add a hair dryer on, no better yet, add 2. :D

Torque is made by an increase in air / fuel mix and better tuning. In an N/A sence it's hard and expensive to increase torque.

There's only one replacement for displacement and that's to force it.

bigger the bang, bigger the boom, and you get more broom broom. :rofleek:

actually, the most effective way to get torque is to increase displacement.

even after turboing, your torque down low is still crap unless you've got some really small turbo which don't hold very high boost, but anything with boost there's lag and you'll be down slightly on torque down low, but once you get used to it, i suppose turbo is better than no turbo

when taking off the TB, there are 2 black hoses on the bottom...what are they???

also did you guys take the TB off at all??


cheers

kev

is the TB and plenum heated? i bet there is more performance from bypassing them than there would be from a high flowed TB as an only mod

Turbos really respond to bigger TB's, mine are bs small, i have a 30mm one and a 35mm odd :confused: biggest restriction of bigger horse power i have :(

when taking off the TB, there are 2 black hoses on the bottom...what are they???

also did you guys take the TB off at all??


cheers

kev

what hoses??? :shock: dam! that must be where all my boost escaped into.... :cry: its not just a heating chamber is it?

I actually did mine a fair while ago so i cannot remember the 2 hoses on the bottom.

I don't remember any water hoses or anything else that looked like heating.

I did take the TB off te car, otherwise all the shavings would go into the motor when you started it up.... NOT GOOD!!!

When i removed it i just took note of where each hose came from and made sure it went back on in the same place

The two hoses are for heating the T/B faster from cold and to give a constant (though warm ) temperature. There may be advantages to having a cooler T/B and cooler air flow (see RPWs latest insulating manifold gaskets) but remember that the automatic choke senses the water temp at the T/B and this will be affected if you just bypass the two hoses.
It may work OK. Give it a try. The probable effect will be a higher idle speed during engine warm-up, or the higher idle speed will last longer.

The 'automatic choke' per se is completely controlled by the ecu. There is no such choke on the throttle body. The ecu simply enriches the fuel mixture and increase the IAC position to raise the idle and give a better cold start. The coolant sensor is used for this purpose.

this is one of the hoses i'm talking about... the other one is on the other side....

so how do i take the TB off... :mad: :confused:

Looks like you should unclip it at the red bit mate..

Looks like you should unclip it at the red bit mate..


yes i tried....but its a water hose.....

The 'automatic choke' per se is completely controlled by the ecu. There is no such choke on the throttle body. The ecu simply enriches the fuel mixture and increase the IAC position to raise the idle and give a better cold start. The coolant sensor is used for this purpose.
True. The ECU has taken over most of the functions of the old auto choke. I thought though that there was a wax pellet within the T/B which varies according to the water temp inside the T/B and allows more air through an internal passage to increase the RPM when cold. Maybe I read this from an earlier model. I will check.

hmm, this is a interesting thread, thanks guys. But a question, wtf is a dremel? is it like a hone or something? If it is one im cheering as i have one left ova from engine rebuild :D

hmm, this is a interesting thread, thanks guys. But a question, wtf is a dremel? is it like a hone or something? If it is one im cheering as i have one left ova from engine rebuild :DNo it is not like a hone.... it is liek an electric screwdriver but spins at 30,000rpms,
http://au.dremel.com/html/home_fr.html

No it is not like a hone.... it is liek an electric screwdriver but spins at 30,000rpms,
http://au.dremel.com/html/home_fr.html
oh man, thats full sik!, i want me one :D

so what attachment is recomended to use?

WEll I origionaly bought one second hand from Cash Converters .. for $60... but it was so noisy and vibrated like a cheap hotel bed...
So I returned it and got one from Bunnings Hardware for $89.. 15piece starter back...
I also bought from them a $19 200 piece multi pack with all differnet types of attachemnets...
one thing I reckon woulf be cool and I dont have it.. is the goose neck...

you can get cheaper ones .. but a Dremel is the origional and the best..
From Bunnings and Mitre 10 you can also buy a Ozzoto(?) and they come with the goose neck...
(The goose neck allows you to use it like a pencil and can get into alot tighter places as it is only 5c in diamter as compared to the actual motor which is around 5-7cm in Diamater..

Haydn

When I bought my Dremel I also got what you are calling the "Goose Neck". Its basically a flexible rotating shaft which is used like an extension for the tool. and it was very handy.

Also looking at the water hose.... Now I see it, it does ring a bell... Pretty sure the best thing to do will be to unclip/unbolt/undo everything else until you can't proceed any further till you take the hose off. Undo the hose clamps from both ends. Pull the hose off the throttle body end. When water begins to drip out of the end of it, just rotate the hose until the open (TB) end faces up above the motor. Because it is now higher no more water will flow out.

For those of you who haven't figured it out yet (Genocide), the red arrows are pointing to the ends of the hose which on the TB end is obscured. It is not pointing to the red electrical plug.

Not sure how good these units are.....
But if you are after a cheaper Dremel .. then Dick Smith/Tandy have these on special frm the 28th of October to the 14th of November...
And it has the pencil grip as I was saying. (please compare prices before purchasing... I have not used one of these and take no responisability if they are crap :D [maybe it is the operator?? :P])
Haydn

hi can someone pls post a pic of the "bit" they used

thanks in advance

++++
Greetings All.

Sorry to dig this older thread up, but i agree, could someone post a pic of the bit up?? I want to try and attempt this...whats involved..?

Cheers,
--Tonba
++++

:bump: BUMP!

Pretty sure the bit I used was a carbide bit. (the meatal type, not the stone type)

its shape was oval. the head of the bit's dimensions were about 6mm wide by about 10 or 12mm long.
As I said earlier, get a couple of bits slightly different, and see which is easier. These bits really aren't expensive, so few extras won't cost you the earth.

Go to your local hardware store and have a look at what they got on the shelf. they'll have something to help you out. (the bigger the shop the larger the range!!)

cheers

To the Vic guys, I bought a rotary tool kit today which should do the job nicely, ok it is not the fancy Dremmel brand, but that was going to cost $150 all up for something half decent and even then it didn't come with some of the things that this one does... this one being an ozito with speed of 8,000 - 30,000. So yeah, I don't know about the appropriate bit types but it comes with a nice little assortment All at the handy price of $40 :D

Edit: Oh and I forgot to say this Ozito brand comes with the goose neck...handy! :D

Using THSmokers pic to ask a question...(thanks!)

http://neilk.customer.netspace.net.au/tbpic2.jpg

With the areas that I have cirlced in the drawing, is this where you want to try to smooth out (or round off)? and on the right side to make the lead in more drawn out and not so stepped/angled?

I am so tempted to do this before I get the EManage installed (err, which would only leave tomorrow!), just in case it has some sort of impact on performance if I do it post tuning! Or do people think it wont really matter?

Using THSmokers pic to ask a question...(thanks!)

http://neilk.customer.netspace.net.au/tbpic2.jpg

With the areas that I have cirlced in the drawing, is this where you want to try to smooth out (or round off)? and on the right side to make the lead in more drawn out and not so stepped/angled?

I am so tempted to do this before I get the EManage installed (err, which would only leave tomorrow!), just in case it has some sort of impact on performance if I do it post tuning! Or do people think it wont really matter?

Do it today!

Do it today!
Anything is probable with me! Don't be surprised if I do!

To avoid the sticking butterfly how about this:

Just a note on the Dremels:

DO NOT BUY the GMC ones, they are really really poor quality. Sure they have a 2 year replacement warranty, because you'll NEED it! I went through three in 6 months then I just got my money back.