Hey All,
Whats the possibility of putting this thing in a 1st gen?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=32624&item=2493737653&rd=1

Thats a pretty reasonable price for all the **** it has in it, i would get it, its just whether or not i can fit it in my car or not, it would need custom mounts right?

Aussie

the stock engines r pretty average. pretty much no1 turbos them. Not many gains to be had. thats y most throw in a ca18det.

turboe the 2.6, get very good gains!

but i need a list of what to buy....i have no ****en idea, and i dont know which turbo to buy :S

itl b easier to turbo ur current engine..then make new mounts for the engine...gearbox etc with a pulsar engine...its only a 1.8. would stuggle to use the 'power' to haul ur magnas ass around. turbo 2.6 will do it easy!

search the net...ring mechanics...theyl help you

=/

Has anybody turboed one of these things before? :nuts:

check out www.fastmagna.com theres an acticle on a turbo TN or TM there
depending on what turbo you go for you might need to do a EFI conversion

again, ill say wat i always say. carby is cheaper than efi. look at the fastmagna gallery and u will see a white 1st gen that is N/A and is more of a machine than any turbo 1st gen!

twin carb setup. strengthened internals etc. just needs to be tuned properly and it will b a mad car! if ya read it, he passed a celica 1800 turbo, intercooled, at 170km/hr, IN THIRD GEAR, and kept pulling. imagine the induction noise as the secondarys fly open. enough to scare many a commodore boy i bet :D

something to think about.

Troy remembers the engine to be "damn awesome". He claims to have not had any troubles with HSV's or XR6's, and he passed his mates Celica 1800 turbo intercooled in 3rd gear at 170k's and left him behind.

who needs turbo... these engines have alot of potential with or without one.

brendan

Does anyone know of a twin carby manifold that would fit the 2.6 directly with no modifications? Ive got a dual throat webber at the moment and would love to bolt on a new manifold and get another webber! Ive heard a setup like that goes off its head and is cheaper than a turbo.

Or, what if i try something like mazzazx51 said, and put a dual throat webber on, adn THEN add a turbo afterwards, its possible to have a turbocharged carby, it would be ****en awesome!!

dude, i think your stuck on the wrong side of the line here, what brendans saying is, you dont need a turbo to make your car the bomb, if its carbi it can be done for probably less money and get more gains since your buying buying a turbo and getting a custom manifold and then a new exhaust system, save that cash you'd be spending right there and do your carb right and it'll eat the turbo equiv.

Yeah, i get that...

Troy remembers the engine to be "damn awesome". He claims to have not had any troubles with HSV's or XR6's, and he passed his mates Celica 1800 turbo intercooled in 3rd gear at 170k's and left him behind.




If anyone quotes that dip**** again i will slap them.

Biggest load of bull**** I have ever heard. Work out the ratios, he has stretched the truth quite badly. If you ask me, his speedo was either out and hes stupid enough to believe it, or hes just got his hand on it.

Need i remind you this engine did not last for very long? And a civic can have "induction rumble" :nuts:. It wont scare any commo driver as every 2nd knob has a rampod on their car. Its the trend these days. :nuts:

Please guys, keep it real. Unless you have a race car you really dont want to be rebuilding after every few days of driving.
Do not try what this guy did, he tried, and failed. And if he's stupid enough to rev the poor thing to 7500 (trying to make 8500) im glad he failed.
Our engines are long stroke, not built to rev! Thats why theyre so torquey! :badgrin:

Gotta love the low-end torque of a good old under-square engine! There are major gains to be had for just the single dual throat webber. Itd be a good idea to get extractors and a 2.25-2.5inch exhaust aswell, if youre opening up the intake you have to open up the exhaust to allow max flow and performance gains, but that goes without saying. Just make sure you dont go too big as there will be less power in the low-end because of reduced backpressure, but too much backpressure is a bad thing.

Ive got a 41mm (primary) and 46mm (secondary) on mine (not too sure what it came off) and does it ever open up!

I like to get to 3000 at the end of the first stage and make it sound like im gonna change gears then stomp it into second stage and watch the tacho jump 500rpm and fly towards 4000...then I get scared and change gears, I want my engine to last a LONG time. I dont do it often but its great fun. Ive never got it to max power (4800 I think) because ive never needed to. Not a great idea to do this in 1st or 2nd as the car gets hard to steer when hitting the second stage. :D There may be an extremely short stutter and loss of power when quickly going into second stage, some people hate this and it can be fixed a little through tuning, but I like it, makes it feel like a turbo kicking in...but harsher. If you enter second stage smoothly you will have a smooth transition also.

So yeah I'm sure you'll be more than happy with the gains of just the dual throat Webber, but be warned your fuel consumption will increase, I get about 300km to $50 ($1.10 premium), and thats taking it easy but there are long steep hills all the way home...so it may be better for a drive on more level terrain. Also you may need to install a manual choke, I reccomend it as you can adjust the choke a lot more accuratley and you can be sure that it is all the way in when the engine is warm, unlike an automatic choke where you dont have any indication of its position. This will reduce some unneeded fuel usage.

You will also need to get it jetted properly, a basic indication of whether it is jetted appropriatley is if you need to use the choke to start from cold. If the choke needs to be out when you start from cold and the car idles at about 750 when warm and the choke is in its pretty right. This also comes with choke adjustment but you will not be able to adjust the choke to the right settings if the carby does not have the appropriate jets....Id leave it up to a good mech to do that kind of fine tuning.

BTW it should sound like a drag car with the choke fully out on idle...the deep sound of the car nearly stalling but then jumping to life every .7sec or so. It sounds wikked but there will also be masses of unburnt fuel hanging in the air which is not so cool.

I have started a thread in the 1st gen section about the dual carby set-ups but so far no-one has replied...

Brendan (TM-SE-RED) knows heaps more than me about this. If you decide to go with the carby he'd be the one to talk to about the finer details.

Go Carby!

Sorry about the long post...I got excited.

be warned your fuel consumption will increase, I get about 300km to $50 ($1.10 premium)

300km out of a tank :shock: i get close to 500km+ and thats with occasional rev out to 4grand and a couple of big hill climbs on the way to and from uni :confused:

I definately need to take a closer look at your car the next time your free in town :cool:

Nah not 300 to a tank, 300 to $50. A tank is more around the $75 mark (Ive got a wagon, I think they've got a bigger tank). I dont let it run too low as it puts more pressure on your fuel pump, float, and sends more of the gunk thats in the bottom of the tank through the system and blocks the filter. Id probably get glose to 450-500km out of a full tank, prob more on highway driving.

Yeah 4sure Dim, next time Im down at Uni I'll send U a msg, I havent been down there in a while, workin too muchne$$.

Awesome post up there mazzazx51, if i can get my car sounding like that i will be happy :D

i scare ppl wen i put the foot down. how do i know this? i look at their faces as my secondarys fly open.

was an instance where i was coming out of uni and there was ALOT of traffic coming. there was a fair gap right before them so i put it back into second gear and punched it. secondarys fly open and here the induction :D. i was watching a woman in a magna, incoming and whom i was tryin to get infront of. she was looking straight forward til my secondarys opened. shouldve seen her face :bowrofl: ... was gold. she looked straight at me with a weird look on her face. she didnt slow down and i was nowhere close to hitting her.

can i take this quote and rip it to pieces...

Need i remind you this engine did not last for very long? And a civic can have "induction rumble" . It wont scare any commo driver as every 2nd knob has a rampod on their car. Its the trend these days.

ummm.... secondarys opening on a carby is not like any pod u can put on ur EFI car. a carb being floored will get ur attention VERY quickly, as my story above points out. i drove past a mate who owns a TF (hes on these forums as SexedTF'n) and put the foot down. he was amazed next time i talked to him. he said it sounded totally beef, nothing like a pod. dont compare it to a pod, or ill slap you.

2nd... how was he able to rev to 7500rpm again? HE HAD A CAM. does anyone know wat a camshaft is or does? go to howstuffworks.com and find out. he had MASSIVE head work. can anyone say FLOW? oversized valves obviously... more fuel, and get rid of more exhaust gases. if u dont have a carby and havent worked on one, dont think u know all about them and comment about dumbsh!t like i have heard. carbys will keep revving to wateva u want them to. my accelerator cable recently stuck wen my clutch was in and it VERY quickly revved to 6500 before i could release the clutch. THIS IS WITH THE STOCK CAM AND THE ENGINE IS STILL PERFECT!!!!!!!!

so how hard is it to believe that with a cam designed to rev higher, with strenghthened internals, MASSIVE headwork and a twin carb setup wouldnt rev to 7500? very easily i would imagine.

thank u and goodnight

brendan

May i refer you to my last post where you brought this up. :bowrofl:

Cam doesnt mean the engine can handle those RPMS as old boy Troy showed us.

It can get there though, but not for long :bowrofl:.

EFI cars with dual stage inlet manifolds have secondaries so i dont know what your on about.

May i refer you to my last post where you brought this up. :bowrofl:

Cam doesnt mean the engine can handle those RPMS as old boy Troy showed us.

It can get there though, but not for long :bowrofl:.

EFI cars with dual stage inlet manifolds have secondaries so i dont know what your on about.


to handle those RPM's, u need strenghthened internals. if an astron can handle 10-12 psi on stock internals (directly from dave at RPW), y couldnt the astron handle 7000 revs? or 7500?

yes, i know about the EFI cars. a mate showed me on his MX6. but how does that relate to anything i have said? there is no deep induction note from it. from a carby, u will get the deep induction note, especially if u have an open air filter.

http://members.westnet.com.au/jasonbroadhurst/images/neverwalk.jpg


May i refer you to my last post where you brought this up. :bowrofl:

Cam doesnt mean the engine can handle those RPMS as old boy Troy showed us.

It can get there though, but not for long :bowrofl:.

EFI cars with dual stage inlet manifolds have secondaries so i dont know what your on about.

http://members.iinet.net.au/~simonrod/AM-pics/ho_001.jpg

the magna has a low redline because there isn't enough power to increase it past the rpm stated, its definatly not because of weak components. Have a look of things like "Saftey Factor" when components are being engineered. its more the valve train wear and lack of oil stability




Oh and [THUGDOUT]..
http://members.westnet.com.au/jasonbroadhurst/images/p1.jpg

care to explain turbo?


edit: Ah i see. start_sarcasm.

So it doesnt have anything to do with the rev limiting valve train coupled with hydraulic lifters that our cars have, it doesnt have anything to do with the long stroke and therefore higher conrod/piston speeds than that of square or undersquare engines.
/sarcasm.

Upgrade all the engine components you want (cam, forged internals, even do the crankshaft - but it wont last)
Until you have absolutely bulletproof bearings and crankshaft(find me some if you can) and have corrected the stroke ratio (with different spec conrods) we will always have a 'built to idle' 4 cylinder. Well not exactly idle, but you understand me.
Feel free to flame with more unintelligent comments about the cam being able let it safely rev more and more.

Oh and SE TM.

Im pretty sure all mx6s are turbo. That will explain the lack of induction noise. The compressor blades work as a baffle at the same time as spooling and forcing that air in there.

This will explain why it is so much quieter. Put an open air filter on the TB of an N/A efi car with a dual stage manifold and it WILL sound beefy.

firstly, i did not say that changing the cam will make it rev safely to a million rpm. i said the cam would ALLOW the engine to rev that high. to be able to handle the revs, of course u have to upgrade things. internals etc... i am under no illusion that this can b surpassed and u can just start revving ur cars to 7000 in every gear. STUPID!

u change the correct components, of course the engine is gunna rev to ***in 7000.

and where in the writeup does it say the engine didnt last very long? it dosent say at all. if he is saying he had no problem with HSV's or XR6's, OBVIOUSLY hes had a few runs against these cars. and whos to say he had to rev to 7500 everytime he raced? it was ABLE TO GET THERE with the amount of work he had done. since wen have i said that u should rev to 7500 all the time? ive said all along that it was ABLE to get there. understand? he also didnt say that he revved to 7500 every trip to get some milk and bread. dont assume he did

no, not all MX6's are turbo. there is either the 2.2L 4cyl turbo or the 2.5L 6 cyl N/A versions.

i can rev past 7500 if i wanted

no, not all MX6's are turbo. there is either the 2.2L 4cyl turbo or the 2.5L 6 cyl N/A versions.

So which ones ur mate got? The 2.5L ones are ugly pieces of crap. I wouldnt own one.
Im guessing if he has taste he'll be driving the 4 cylinder.

to handle those RPM's, u need strenghthened internals. if an astron can handle 10-12 psi on stock internals (directly from dave at RPW), y couldnt the astron handle 7000 revs? or 7500?



This is what im getting at here, your reasoning is saying if they can handle psi they can handle revs.

This is not the case.

i can rev past 7500 if i wanted
But u drive a charade. :badgrin: With a motorbike engine in it. :D

But u drive a charade. :badgrin: With a motorbike engine in it. :D
:owned:

the carade would kick any of our 1st gens ass.

now all you kids stop *****in' before i bring a big swift load of kickass down here.

ALSO make one post, not 400 on the same topic like magnamatic is doing, it annoys me and i shall whinge and complain to the closest admin.

the carade would kick any of our 1st gens ass.

now all you kids stop *****in' before i bring a big swift load of kickass down here.

ALSO make one post, not 400 on the same topic like magnamatic is doing, it annoys me and i shall whinge and complain to the closest admin.
Cry me a river.

My magna is my daily driver. :bowrofl: Not something to try and make fast.

You wanna contribute something to the topic nick or you just wanna winge?

Handling high PSI is different to being able to handle high RPM. Long stroke engines are just not ment to rev high, eg: BA XR8, 5.4L V8, high flow head design, DOHC 4vavles/cyl, but still reach their safe limit at around 5,500 - 6,000rpm, but can handle a fair amount of boost.

Thge only Turbo MX6s were the 2.2 1st Gens, the second Gen MX6 only had NA 2.0 I4 or NA 2.5 V6.

Handling high PSI is different to being able to handle high RPM. Long stroke engines are just not ment to rev high, eg: BA XR8, 5.4L V8, high flow head design, DOHC 4vavles/cyl, but still reach their safe limit at around 5,500 - 6,000rpm, but can handle a fair amount of boost.


Thank you. Someone that understands. Listen to this man.