Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone has run 0 gauge through to the boot for amps.
I found a pretty good grommet to go through but wondering if there are any other choices.
For a 98 TF Advance. (has airbags, no p/windows, automatic)
Looking from the drivers side, with the carpet pulled down, theres a grommet with a hose going through it behind the centre console.
Has anyone taken the front left side panel off and if so can you get into the cabin through there without drilling (eg an empty grommet/cover plate etc)
If you take the kickpanel out on the interior theres a nice hole but im not sure if it gets into the engine bay.

Thanks!

why on earth do u need 0 how many amps u have?

boot mounted battery is the only thing i can think of for 0gauge

when i put friends amp + subs in my car for boredom it was like 0 gauge. really bloody big, it fit through - somehow, i dunno how on earth u fit it under the carpet without the outline of the large calbe all the way though :redface:

edit: it was a 1000watt alpine amp.

boot mounted battery is the only thing i can think of for 0gauge
Nar boot mounted battery requires lower gauge as the run isn't as long. Better for amps/safer having larger guage than smaller. All good got it sorted now... Fit it through behind the dash next to another grommet. :cool:
Just wondering if anyone else has ever fitted this through the side panels?
Stuff is pretty chunky but run it under the carpet alongside the centre console and you wouldn't notice it was there.

0 gauge is nothing... People run 000 gauge... Now thats Crazy :nuts:

Peace

Tim

dont forget to upgrade the negative off your batery as well with 0 guage or else it wont flow any more power. than the original -ve wire.
if you get my drift!

4 gauge is all you need and thats over kill really. for only one amp 8 guage is good enough.

Yeah but besides having chunky cable (which is unnoticable in my wheels) there's no problems with using higher grade wire, just means less resistance which equals higher voltage at your amps. Through say 5 metres of 4 awg cable running at 100 amps you would have a voltage drop of around 0.41 volts. Using 0 awg with the same figures its under 0.25 volts. Im not going for a huge system, just building up a good quality system. (always better to have bigger cables and smaller fuses imo)
Grounding will be finished up on the weekend Mercury. I gotta play around with it a bit to see exactly what I'm gonna do but possibly upgrade the ground for the whole car at the battery. Then find & sand back a good common grounding point in the boot. Its all fused properly (with sealed anl fuses = lower resistance) close to the battery, so no probs there. But the ground will be suffice (I get ur drift, good to see ya know wats goin down :cool: )

Peace

Tim

how do u figure that out :nuts:

there isn't much chance in seeing a half volt drop from 4m or wire, specialy when were talking 12v and pretty thick wire, 8/4gauge and not much current. not like anyone runs 4x1000wrms amps in there boot.

ps the current flow isn't lost, only the potential of the charge

Some resistance values per metre for gauge wire. Of course these change for different brands but will do for this.

AWG (American Wire Gauge) - ohms per metre.

2/0 gauge - 0.0002580
0 gauge - 0.0003251
1 gauge - 0.0004961
2 gauge - 0.0005161
4 gauge - 0.0008192
8 gauge - 0.0020643
etc

To calculate voltage drop we use ohms law which states voltage = current multiplied by resistance or v = I x R

I = 100 amps, length of wire = 5 metres from battery to boot.

for 0 gauge
R = 5 x 0.0003251
R = 0.0016255 ohms
V = I x R
V = 100 x 0.0016255
V = 0.16255 =~ 0.16

for 4 gauge
R = 5 x 0.0008192
R = 0.004096 ohms
V = I x R
V = 100 x 0.004096
V = 0.4096 =~ 0.41

So all other things constant, (and assuming my maths is correct) voltage drop across the 0 gauge will be 0.16255 volts compared to 0.4096 volts, when using 100 amps through 5 metres of wire. btw, using 8 gauge in the same manner with the same would yield over a 1 volt drop all other things constant.

It will not harm your equipment, as ur battery puts out above 12 volts anyway (And your equipment will run well under 12 volts). Conversely, I've heard of people running systems at 17 volts in a car. I'm just showing that there aren't negatives in running 0 gauge or higher if you want to get the best out of your system, which in my case is a lot of headroom.


how do u figure that out :nuts:

there isn't much chance in seeing a half volt drop from 4m or wire, specialy when were talking 12v and pretty thick wire, 8/4gauge and not much current. not like anyone runs 4x1000wrms amps in there boot.

:bowrofl: you should check out some db drag guys, 4 x 1000w is nothing, people run upwards of 8000w systems and that's just to power a couple of subs loaded down to 1 ohm. Digital Design subs for example run around 1500w rms and peak well above 5000w.

Tim

A dude, those DD subs can handle lots more power than that. In the db racing scene, 169.9db can be had with the right car ( in this case a colt ) + a single DD 9915 15inch sub powered by 2 Concept CD2400A + 2 Concept CCD2410's for a total of 10,000WRMS @ 16V. That is insain power handling, all from a single 15 :shock: :bowrofl:

I dont think you have stated what amp (s) you have or plan to run, A 2 gauge cable may do the trick as the 0 gauge will cost more, be fatter and will look like your passenger side has a dead body in it.

I forgot to mention that the set up above uses a 0 gauge cable for 10,000WRMS. Why do you need that cable?

wank appeal :nuts:

wank appeal :nuts:

same as puttin a turbo on a charade i guess...... :bowrofl:

wank appeal :nuts:
Once again, it only has benefits. And I think I proved that above in physics 1.1 :nutkick: ;)

Mr Charisma, I heard of a few 169.7 runs on audiocontrol, but that 169.9 is damn good. Soo close to 170... :) DD subs are unbelievable.

I'm not really going for SPL, just going for a stealthy SQ setup really but we'll see where it ends up. I want a nice clean install with some quality gear, I got the bug and thought I may as well do it right. Anyway found 0 gauge, fuses and distro blocks for really cheap, cheaper than a smaller gauge. So the cost side of it wasn't hurting me. And it also fit in without any extra damage, and runs through the cabin unseen.

Just working on acquiring some older Alpine V12's, got an MRV-405 for fronts, and still researching/finding a suitable monoblock(s) etc for the rest. A work in progress at the moment. Still got a long way to go, but it keeps me busy. I like the older Alpines and imo they are pretty high quality setups.

At least now I won't have to upgrade any powerlines anymore :P

Tim

Sorry i must correct myself he got a 169.6 ( got excited with the 69 i think ). To give you some idea of the power these woofers can take, he got a 166.8 with a 15inch CV Stroker with 5000WRMS, problem is he literally blew up this sub after a few runs. He resides in WA actually and not sure of his CAA name.

The older Alpine amps are good ( V12 only ) and make for good listening. I suppose it would be cool wank factor to have this huge wire popping out somewhere in the boot, may I ask what gauge wires you are going to run to each of the amps from the distribution box which i assume will also be in the boot.

Good to see you thougherly planning your set up. You may want to steer clean of alpines speakers though for a SQ set up :)

( got excited with the 69 i think ) :bowrofl:

Nar, I wouldn't go Alpine speakers. Currently got some Hertz HSK-165 Woofers up front. Run through Boston Rally crossovers with Cadence Tweeters in the kicks (for now mmm Morel... maybe). Thinking about going active off the amp, but the doors are still undeadened so first things first. Such a b!tch to find good deadener without paying an arm and a leg.
Then running JBL GTO's for rear fill.
I'm kind of looking into a 3-way setup upfront, possibly Dynaudios depending on money. And I don't want to hack my car up too much fitting 8" woofers in the doors. Hmmm 8" in kicks. *optimism*
Tossing up what to do with subs, just running two 10" in sealed boxes. Which mite end up being passed onto mate's cars eventually. Haven't looked into bass too much yet. Almost bought a Phoenix Gold Tantrum the other week, but knew I'd get annoyed and upgrade again. Just wanna do it all right this time.
I got a fancy Stinger Distro block to show off the back (Now there's some wank) The things cost like $70 for a block of metal... (no i didnt pay that much) I can run 0 gauge out of the distro block but will prob go 2 or 4 to each amp.
CAA is addictive stuff... Such an expensive habit :noway:

Tim

:bowrofl:

CAA is addictive stuff... Such an expensive habit :noway:

Tim

I haven't been on that for a while now...I got over the addiction (finally) but I'm sure it will come back to haunt me sometime later :mad:

Regardless, sounds like a very nice n expensive setup...goodluck :)

Yeah might need some detox over here in Mod land... Haven't gotten too into engine mods yet... We'll see how it goes. I give it a couple of months ;)

Yeah might need some detox over here in Mod land... Haven't gotten too into engine mods yet... We'll see how it goes. I give it a couple of months ;)

You sure will, your car does have power windows? In the magna's that dont have power windows the speaker hole is mounted lower. This means if you wish add an 8inch driver you could and then mount the 6inch and tweeter in a custom kick panel near the accelerator ( FHRX can fix you up there :D ) . However i think that if you accurately stage the Hertz mids + a tweeter then it will sound quite nice.

Subs to look at:
Image dynamics
DD ( they arent just for SPL )
Boston
Hertz
Vibe

Engine mods are easy... exhaust tip, upgrade air filter, extractors, chip, throttle body... turbo kit :badgrin:

Nah no power windows which is good. My dads got a TJ so I know what you mean, I could fit in 8" drivers, would just need some fine tuning on my fibreglass skills (or lack thereof) to make a pod for them. Could be done pretty easily. They got 3 way Hertz Hsk-163's on sale around $420 or something new. And they have 6.5" drivers the same as im running now, so I'd only have to make up a pod for the kicks. I'll have to see how well the current setup performs with my doors all deadened before i can make a call on what to do next

And don't tempt me with engine upgrades yet... :swearing:

;)