I recently purchased some foglights to fit on my TJ magna exec, and discovered that there is quite a difference between the verada versions (that I purchased) and the sports/exec versions.

The seller suggested that screws be put through the top of the bracket, into the plastic of the bumper. After looking at this option, and seeing how little material there was to attach to, and the fact that the angle the would sit at was too sharp, I decided to see if there were brackets available from Mitsubishi - I found out here that the lights were quite different - there is a bumper core (metallic) that the verada lights bolt into - this is not present on the sports/executives.

The sports/executive lamps bolt into where the factory air ducts are mounted - a 6mm M3 bolt into the bumper support. The design of the lamp is different (they have lugs to mount to this, and a different part number to the verada items)

Ok - Here are the plans to make some metal brackets to fit Verada foglights to TJ Exec/sports factory mounts securely. I made my initial ones out of very thin aluminium flashing to sort out the final measurements, which are *perfect* to munt the fog lamps at the correct angle.

You do need to buy two gromments (to secure the rear of the lamp into the bracket internal to the bumper - fortunatly these are only $4 each (you need two).

The brackets (once made) need to be bent at the angles specified, but the bands need to be mirror reverse (for the left and right hand sides) - hard to explain, but hwen you make one, you will work it out very quickly.

I used 12 Guage aluminium plate, sourced from Dick Smith Electronics (for a 300X300mm sheet it is about $15), and painted the brackets with matt black paint (as when they are mounted you can see a slightly small bit of silver - the black hides it very nicely).

Hope this helps
Cheers
Heath Young

This image size limit on attachments makes it rather difficult to display dimensioned drawings in any appreciable resolution!! :rant:

Trying *again*.

Nce work putting this howto together, fortunately I had the luxury of some sports fog lamps when doing this mod for my old TJ Exec which made life alot easier as you've said.

Just out of interest, what if any, is the price difference between verada and sports/exec style driving lights for the TJ series????????

should be nothing ive got a set for $200.

Moderators, Can we sticky this?

I've been searching for something like this for a while.

It would be very helpful to others.

You are a legend. I have the same problem (want to fit Verada fogs to my TJ Advance), I was about to have a go at making brackets today. I tried to buy the brackets from Mitsubishi. Brackets are not available separately....they come with the lamps. It seems the actual lights are all the same, but for different models there are screw on bits and brackets. For the Veradas each lamp has one large bracket that fits over the lamp. For TH and TJ, there is a bracket each side of each lamp. For TE/TF it seems there is one brakcet on each lamp and 2 'pins' that screw in on the other side. Anyone got more info? Is the aluminium from Dick Smith ideal? I imagine it will be easy to work (cut/bend/drill).
It seems all the wiring is there. I established that the wiring is at the fuse box. I imagine the wiring for the fogs is in the loom close to the headlamps...anyone know....anyone with a Sports/Verada? Did your brakcets put teh lights in the correct position (in-line with the surrounding shrouds and at the correct horizontal angle. Sideways adjsutment is available. I will probably use Narva plus 50 bulbs.

So what wiring already exists for tj Adv? Wiring from stalk to relay box? Wiring from taillamp circuit to fog light? From relay to fog lights?

this is fantastic! can't believe i couldnt find this sooner!

this is fantastic! can't believe i couldnt find this sooner!

Same, just printed out the plans for this :D

Made up a set on the weekend,
The L-shape brackets are okay but I think the long one are meant to be 110mm in total length and not 150mm. They were poking way out the front of the bumper. will modify and retry.

Monster Inc what did you make brackets from? Tried to get 12 gauge aluiminium sheet(2.66mm) from Dick Smith, Jaycar, Tandy..no luck they only have 18 gauge, which is thinner @1.21mm. Using a multimeter and probes into the contact points of the fuse box in the engine bay I found the following. Continuity between the fuse contact and the appropriate relay contact and 12 volts at the appropriate relay contact. Now the quest is to find the connectors for the fogs. mitsu manual shows them as coming out of the loom at the same point as headlamp wires. Once i find these I will look around the steering column. Agree, overall length should be 110mm for the long brackets. Monster, how did everything line up??

Monster Inc what did you make brackets from? Tried to get 12 gauge aluiminium sheet(2.66mm) from Dick Smith, Jaycar, Tandy..no luck they only have 18 gauge, which is thinner @1.21mm. Using a multimeter and probes into the contact points of the fuse box in the engine bay I found the following. Continuity between the fuse contact and the appropriate relay contact and 12 volts at the appropriate relay contact. Now the quest is to find the connectors for the fogs. mitsu manual shows them as coming out of the loom at the same point as headlamp wires. Once i find these I will look around the steering column. Agree, overall length should be 110mm for the long brackets. Monster, how did everything line up??

Hi Dickie,
I went to Bunnings and got some 3mm Aluminum Plate. (Only other option was 1.6mm which is too thin)
The L shape bracket was almost spot on. I will need to adjust it slightly but more due to manufacturing tolerances. :)
The Other bracket looked like it would fit but due to the length can't be sure. - Again - small mods to line up req'd.
cheers,
Mark.

On my TJ Advance there are no leads for fog lights, although the fuse box is wired. Looked everywhere and stripped back insulation. So will wire the fogs independently. While I had the RHS plastic splash cover that fits over the front wheel off, I found the ideal spot to run the cable from engine bay to passenger compartment. So now I have twin flex running from steering column to RHS parker.

Here is a bit of a how to. RHS front wheel off, stands under car for safety. Remove splash guard. Note there are bolts 10mm and self tappers (10mm). The self tappers run along the outside and the bolts are inboard. Note how the plastic fits inside the quarter panel before removing it. It will be necessary to remove the mud flap (10mm self tappers with star heads). The mud flap is held to the car body with black mastic (pull gently, but make sure before you do that the self tapper screw that fits onto the mud flap from below has been removed). Follow the wiring harness to where it enters the passenger compartment and you will see a large plastic grommet (the bonnet release also goes through this grommet). If you are looking from RHS towards engine a the 11 o'clock position on this grommet there is a nipple (same as the nipple the bonnet release fits through). I used this nipple to run twin flex through. Use a nail to push a hole through the nipple. Straighten out a wire coat hanger and push it through the nipple, until about 8 to 10 inches of it is inside the car. To start you might need to jiggle the wire around to get it through. Use insulation tape to attache the twin flex to the coat hanger wire. To keep the joint thin I separated the wires of the twin flex, then stripped off the insulation for about an inch ,taped one wire of the flex to the coat hanger and further along the coat hanger taped the other wire up. This is to allow the wire to pass through the nipple without ripping it or making a big hole in it. As soon as the second part of flex passes throught the nipple to the outside, one needs to separate it from the coat hanger. The flex is a tight fit in the nipple, but it might be an idea to use insulation tape also. The twin flex runs in the quarter panel alongside the wiring harness and enters the engine bay adjacent to the park light (there is a hole there with black plastic grommet).

Holy threadmine batman! (02/11/2004)

These were the dimensions I used with success, they lined up perfectly for me. Someone asked about the grommets at the rear of the light - if mitsu have their parts database, then they should have the details - you should get these simply to increase the durability of the mounting.

I didn't have any wiring either in a TJ exec.

The only difference I noticed between the Verada bracket amd the Solara bracket was that the latter didnt have a metal bar at the front to screw into. I just did it into the bumber, worked fine for me. The angle is a bit sharper but not out of line with.tje surrounding black plastic grill pieces.

Just depends what you want the lights for. Highway driving or as Im going to use them for, extra parkers day light led style. Extra angle is good for me, less chance of.glare and getting pulled over...

Cheers for thread though!!

There is a thread that deals with this but I couldnt find it sorry...

But in terms of wiring my driving lights (foggies) up with a switch...

Im putting LED H3 globes in and switching the ground wire. Can I tap into the parker ground wire? Ive got LED parkers... Im thinking that this will make it so the driving lights will only work with the parkers on and also I can switch them off at will...

Do the parkers in a third gen stay on once the headlights are turned on? I know on my TS they did because I had LED parkers, and I could see them on with stock headlight globes... if they do turn off, that means my driving lights will too...

I want the driving lights usable with both parkers and headlights/high beams.

Any advice appreciated. Cheers

Very useful thread / discussion. Just use a test light, they are like $10 at SCA, but from memory oem parkers are on with headlights.

Cheers mate. Hooked driving lights up to parkers and yeap, they stay on with low beams. Set up a relay and switch and tapped into the parker positive wire. Put the LED H3 globes in and they worked nicely.

Not sure why people are taking the battery out to access the passenger headlight, ive got big hands and managed fine. Just take the indicator housing out and the battery cover... might be battery out for for high beams... drivers side? Yeap washer bottle, unscrew, unclip the motor plug and put it out of the way, no need to drain it or take out hoses...

Cheers.