Hey all!

Well i have an auto which is ok but shifts arent as firm as manual. theres too much hassle changing auto->man. ive done a shift kit conversion for a few fords (auto) which is fairly simple mod (cheap too) and alows the tranny to shift wayyy better / quicker. point is i have the a spare computer which controlls the auto tranny the "4AT-U" to play with and was wondering if anyone has a pin out for it?

(for you that dont know the auto tranny computer is located below where the center console joins the dash under the carpet - a pain to get to (both carby and EFI models have it)).

if all fails i guess can try going to a mitsu service center and ask but i doubt that will work :confused:

thanks if anyone can help out

Hey subby,

Is this what you're after?


Cheers

thanks mate MUCH MUCH appreciated.

Hey Subby,
a bit off topic but, is that your car in your avatar??

If so could we get some pictures?? It looks pretty cool!!

yeh its my car. ill get some more pics on a sunnier day has been raining a bit lately.

i wanna try get some short shift happening asap before next magna cruise :D the auto is the only thing stopping me doing stronger shifts its too bloody lazy despite the fact im manualy shifting 1->2->3, still it breaks traction in the dry. understeer is rediculous in the wet. turn at an intersection a tad fast and ur gonna keep goin straight lol

Sounds awesome mate!! Is that a carby i can see under that cool looking custom intake??? Im sure some people would be interested in how you did that! lol

Definately looks like a carby to me :)

Nah, Despite his signature saying carby, I reckon he's EFI.

teh exhaust part looks like carb to me? :shock:
edit: if you do get it going let us know, mite be a reason to keep the auto :badgrin:

yeh its 100% carby. i love the sound of the secodaries opening and its quite loud (induction noise is insane 4000rpm +). i also removed the bonnet sound deadending material - downside is no one can touch my bonnet after a good thrashing as its too hot lol

originaly my filter was a ramflow on the top of the carby. car got very sluggish when hot and on hot days noticably. also mouting foggers for nitromethanol was tricky with that setup. (and the whole ramflow filter could catch fire as it mist from the nitro would touch it) - i wanted to avoid my engine catchin fire basicly ;).

a new setup was needed very custom and cheap too tops $20 + ~$40-$50 for pod.

yeh ill post better pics of it i had enough of the stock air box and it was so bad. went to the wreckers got a 90degree rubber bend from a fords intake (EA ford from memory) ($8). then relised it was 3" and my carb was 2.5" fitting. basicly after some cutting with the stanly knife so it would fit under the bonnet and a hose clamp it was on the carb (ill get a high res pic - easier to explain wat i mean).

then off to a exhaust shop to get about 40cm of 3" pipe ($10). mounted the pod on one end. and done.

on the front of the car there is a ram air duct which force cold air into it. VERY noticable (@ 60km/h +) difference esp on cold nights and on the freeway. from 100km/h to 140km/h fairly effortless.

i also disconnected emisions related stuff to the intake (makes big difference). also let my PVC valve vent to the atmosphere (not seen in that pic).

yeh im gonna work on the shift kit mod. now that i know the ecu pins the plan is to do some tests and basicly trick the output from ecu to the solinoids in the tranny (or might do it the other way around still lookin into it). it will be variable you can adjust shift firmness on the fly to suit (ie smoother in the wet, firmer in the dry). all up shouldnt cost more than $15 to do, and beats doin a manual conversion (in my opion altho nice its just not worth it).


some old pics tho. clear line running to intake is my nitro line. (replaced with a fatter line . safer as im paranoid it would catch fire - that was in the testin stages).

ill get some more recent pics asap.

**** yeah, thats awesome work!! So hows this nitromethanol work :D this car is the goods, damn efi sometimes...

basicly its chemical hp. not quite the same as nitrous oxide. have 1 switch in the cabin to arm the system, and one under the acceleator pedel which is active under wide open throttle (ie basicly planting it).

that circut drives 2 pumps which squirt through a brass 0.5mm nozzel about 3" away from the mouth of the carby. the mist is very very fine. and under wide open throttle it sucks it in fairly quickly. by the time it gets to the combustion chamber its converted to a vapour. good fun!

downside is 1lt of nitro ~$40. also its not really a good idea to have it on for more than 10sec at a time (only when draging) and use it in 2nd or 3rd gear forget it in 1st.

simple system cost me about $50 to make and fiddle around with. basicly if i get a good launch i can beat most 6's or keep up quite well and pretty much any 4cyl which aint turbo ;) give it a good thrashing. love the look on peoples faces "wtf" and damagin their ego "oh my god a stock lookin magna kept up to my crazy car".

hiden quite well in the car i wouldnt want to be caught with it :S. when im not runnin that mix i run straight methanol shots ($3/lt). doesnt help hp but throttle response is very crisp and sharp. helps stop pinging under heavy load and can advance the timming further.

awesome...im getting excited here lol auto + other options that i didnt know possible :shock: will it be alrite to run that with a stocker engine? in your profile says rebuilt, im going to have to do my timing chian before ne other mods though.

looks good mate, pretty good workmanship.

as the self professed 1st gen guru here :P i suppose a shift kit pretty much tightens the bands and increases hyrolic flow so the pistons operate faster (being a manual man myself) have u looked at the design of the tranny?

yeh i blew my engine at 110,000kms (it was gonna go anyway). had it rebuilt and done 130,000kms on it. all the internals are new so they can hack the beating :)


yeh ive looked into it shouldnt at all be hard to do a shift kit.

there are 2 solenoid A, B. A deals with 1->2 shift, B deals with 2->3 shift. the current sent to these solenoids controlls how "smooth" the shift is. now thats all good if you want to cruise around but not all out racing ;).

popping a resistor in series to the pulsed A and B lines will drop the current sent to it. thats not flexible and adjustable, so a potentiometer (basicly thats variable resistor with a knob) which will allow to adjust resistance easly will be needed. now ur pots which you get from jaycar or dicksmith are no good as they will get rediculously HOT. need to source some which can handle 3w or so.

ill do some measurements this w/e to see wat its max current pulsed out by the ecu is then can pick an approriate resistance range then some trial and error findin the best "firmness" setting. thing is can i be bothered takin my console out to get to the ecu ;) ive got one spare to play with.

all in all it will look quite good have 2 knobs mounted somewhere on the console to adjust transmission shifting firmness (1->2) and (2->3) on the fly! should be fun chirpin like a manual in any gear

- with nitro nah wont wreck ya engine only a small quantity is being used. ur oil wont last as long (quality wise) but i change my oil every 5,000km shell helix 15w50. and after a run of nitro i let the engine run few min with it off to flush any nitro left on the cylinder walls. the 0.5mm nozzel is good for max "45hp" shot. any engine can hack 50hp nicely assuming its in good working order. quite fun hitting it at 4000rpm + and watchin the revs fly to 6000rpm :)

Man that think looks awesome!!! I wouldnt mind putting this Nitro system into my car, but since my car will be EFI in the next month, i cant :(

Maybe i will keep the other car and do some **** like that to it :D


ill do some measurements this w/e to see wat its max current pulsed out by the ecu is then can pick an approriate resistance range then some trial and error findin the best "firmness" setting. thing is can i be bothered takin my console out to get to the ecu ive got one spare to play with.

How can a carby car have an ECU?

i assume its just a computer to control the auto. what i wouldn't like to happen is to hit the ol right peddel and have it kick down mid nows boost :shock:

Awsome stuff Subby, love the red cam cover :D . I suggest building a sealed enclosure for the pod to really benifit from your CAI setup :)

yeh a box around it is ok but like the stock air box it leads to starvation, you can "feel" its having a hard time "breathing". + the box has to be a certain volume to get any good effect (too small and it has a hard time sucking - too big is the same as havin none at all etc).

ill get a recent pic soon i used a 3" aircon/heating duct from bunnings feedin to it. thrash the car as much as you want pop the hood and touch the pod filter its ambient temp not at all hot - not even warm! it works well + the crazy induction noise :)

boxing is prob best on cars with AFM (air flow meters) (they loose noticable low end with no air box with only a pod), cars which are carby or use MAP sensors are fine as is.

one quick thing if its any trouble could someone scan more scans from the auto tranny from a shop manual? (ie the electrics of it) if available it will help. thanks.

edit - yeh carby cars dont have ECUs to manage the engine, but all cars both carby and EFI which have AUTOMATIC trannys use a tranny "ECU" to controll the auto tranny. to find it in ur magna rip out ur entire center console and look at the very front behind the headunit under the carpet. you'll see the computer. it controlls such things how smooth the shift is, stops you doing stuipd stuff like dropping it into 1st (L) if ur over 40km/h etc, drops it automaticly to 2nd gear (2) when you floor it stuff like that. regardless of carby or EFI both have it.

XF falcons of the same year, aswell as VK's didn't have a compmuter for the AUTO, just a kick back cable and some good ol engineering

yeh a box around it is ok but like the stock air box it leads to starvation, you can "feel" its having a hard time "breathing".


i will assume this "starvation" is around 5000rpm? or is it something different?

this is where a cam comes in. it will pull the whole way to redline. $120 it cost me to get my stock cam reground to mild cam specs. u could always look into a cam anyway...

just my 2c :D

brendan

i feel the starvation will be carbi related in his case brenno, he's got stock carbi after all.