going quite well!

i measure the current ramps on solenoid B and got nothing even from P R N. im not sure what it controlls maybe from 3->OD from the looks of it (my OD doesnt work anyway).

solenoid A is the right one, current is vaired when i shift with P R N D 2 L, i leave the car in D and plant it and watch the current go from 0.00uA to 11.00uA and it proceeds with a smooth shift - as the current rises the shift is smoother. i was playing around with resistors and indeed the shift is very firm, im in love. :P

solenoid A is deff on the right track. playing around with solenoid B puts the tranny into limp mode (ie stays in 3rd gear) (even while measuring current!!) so thats not the one.

took me 15min to rip the center console out and get to the tranny ecu. ill keep you updated with it more but i plan to finish it by friday.

this shift kit will apply to 1st gens both carby and EFI autos. get the best of both worlds firm shifts of a manual but the convenience of an auto and much much cheaper.

all up this mod will cost a few bucks. ill go thru a few resistors to find the best one so it doesnt feel tooo harsh. :)

did more testing today wont belive how many times i went up and down the street. tested a few values and found the 1 Ohm 5W resistor to be the best. hooked it up to pulsed line A works well. this value is not overly harsh but noticable.

also noticed if you place a switch it has to be near the ecu it doesnt like it being more than ~10cm away.

flooring it shifts are very solid from 1->2 and from 2->3 (but 2->3 not as "harsh" as 1->2) but quick nonetheless.

currently i took my switch off i cant go back once ive driven it with the shift kit. :P

- you can put a switch there to bypass it if you want, but it HAS TO BE close to the ecu 10cm or less otherwise it fails to work.

all up about $0.30c to mod!

can you please explain how it actually works? eg, why does the resistor make your shift firmer?
please explain.

ah yeh the pulsed line from the tranny ECU controls how much current the solenoid inside your transmission gets. the ecu is there to controll how "smooth" a shift is based on things such as speed and current gear etc. if you pop a multimeter in series to measure the current from the line you will see as you increase ur speed current rises = smoother shifting.

by reducing the average current to the solenoid slightly you can firm up the shifts (which is actualy better for the tranny - but not waaay over the top firmness).

when you normaly shift say 1->2 the auto engages both 1st and 2nd while shifting to make it smooth (overlap). this robs you of power and generates heat and puts stress on the transmission (hard to belive but sus out any commericaly available shift kit to see). stock transmissions have "overlap" b/w gears, this reduces the overlap considerably. you can feel it shift, and instantly engages the gear. much like a manual if not in some aspects better.


quotes from other sites explaing it;

" The shift kits usually extend the life of transmissions because it reduces the amount of two gears overlapping during a shift. A smooth shifting transmission, for example, has first and second gears both engaged at the same time during the shift to make it smooth, same with two to three shift. The sliding between the gears makes sooth shifting, but eats both sets of clutches/bands/steels. A shift kit will make quicker shifts, which feel harsh, but the transmission will last longer in the long run, the two-three shift feels softer from the one-two shift because of the components being engaged and the torque/speed of the car when it occurs compared to the one-two shift. "

look around pleanty of info. as this transmission is electronicly controlled, this is a electronic shift kit. you will see some mechanical ones (you have to open your tranny to install) for mechanicaly controlled auto trannys (older cars).

Does anyone know whether 3rd Gens can use something like this???

3rd gens its possible just need pin out of the tranny ecu and time to play with it get some measurements.

im havin fun tonight driving around shifts are so soild just like a manual and engages instantly. :D

3rd gens its possible just need pin out of the tranny ecu and time to play with it get some measurements.

im havin fun tonight driving around shifts are so soild just like a manual and engages instantly. :D

this is great wat u are doing subby. if it does wat u say its doing, ALOT of auto guys will b very happy with wat u have done. the theory sounds simple enough too... anyone should b able to do it. and the fact that it can prolong the life of the tranny? y hasnt anyone thought of this before?

Does anyone know whether 3rd Gens can use something like this???
Not as simple as a resistor, but it could be possible.

there are a lot of aftermarket kits available for newer cars and as if anyone was gonna develop one for a old magna :D , so i did it myself based on all the theory i knew and asked a fair few questions to people in the know.

ill take some pics tommorow before i put my center console back in. cheaper than a manual conversion by far! :P

commerical kits range from $50 - $250. its all basic, i suppose they charge the $$ for the time taken to develop it rather than the parts as such.


edit - with newer cars same sorta deal applies for example the new ford falcons. currents and resistances are different yes, and a resistor is used to reduce the current, but that alone wont work as they have "smarter" ecus and know something is not right (ie they send X ammount of current and only measure a different ammount back to the ecu) fair few ways to "trick" newer ecus. but the principle is the same - lower avg current = stronger shifts. find out for urself get a multimeter and see how it behaves. unless you have tiptronic auto, all autos basicly behave the same way.

a write up on exactly how you did it would be good, along with a materials list, im sure a lot of the auto boys among us would be interested! I might do it to my auto :D

okay, I've looked at the wiring diagrams for the 3rd Gen, the pulse generators you speak of, 3rdGens have A and B as well, BUT, they don't go directly to the Transmission, they go back to the ECU and ECU is connected to the A/T control solenoid seperately.

Do you think this overlap between gears is controlled by the Torque Converter Control or controlled by other stuff???

So you sure that the Pulse generators are controlling the shift or it is just fooling the ECU ?

The ECU is learning in the 3rd gens. Basically, even if you modified it with a resistor, it'll stop being fooled within a very short period.

The ECU is learning in the 3rd gens. Basically, even if you modified it with a resistor, it'll stop being fooled within a very short period.

shift kits should still work iff the ECU signal for torque convert to lock is just some specific voltage or current. INVEC 2 is learning in that it'll alter what RPMs to up shift and down shift etc... but something like when to lock the torque converter and when to unlock should be fairly consistant, eg, the length of time it takes between shifts should be consistant.

I Believe this could be done given that I can figure out just how much variation there is in the torque convertor control.

tested a few values and found the 1 Ohm 5W resistor to be the best. hooked it up to pulsed line A works well. this value is not overly harsh but noticable.



Does it really need something as chunky as a 5W resistor in there?? :confused:

i'll give it a whirl on the weekend, gotta put my driveshafts back in, expensive ****s they were

Why didn't I think of this before? :nuts:

I might play around with the shifter on the old TS and see if we can get something going in the next couple of weeks. If this goes good, looks like i'll be fabricating a new centre console for use with a 3rd gen sports shifter

By the way, if you can only get the switch to work within 10cm of the tranny control unit, might be an idea to hook up a relay instead, and get your switches to control the relay.

Hmm, I think I'm thinking differently to what you are doing here.

Are you just adjusting the timings between the gear changes, so by leaving it in automatic mode you're basically trying to get the transmission to "short shift" into the next gear?

yeh learning ecus are a problem as they will relise something is "wrong" / or odd behavoiur and put you in limp mode. (need more understanding)

as for a 5w resistor i decided it wouldnt hurt a 1/2w should be fine there aint a lot of current flowing thru there. directly playing with the pulse generators you notice results. they send out the corrent pulse to the solenoids or whatnot, these need to be altered. A ive noticed results, as for B im not sure what it does but whatever i do to it, it goes into limp mode.

all i can say is play around it wont hurt. i guess some people may find this shifts are bit hard to get use to as they are quite firm, depending on the road surface your wheels will chirp 1->2 shift, 2->3 not so much as your goin a fair higher speed.

the ecu seems quite picky on how far you can place these things has to be quite close to the ecu. see image to get an idea. the solenoid is linear, by doing this you reduce the line making it overall firmer (yes even your auto downshifts are firmer). im gonna play with it more tommorow.

edit - yeh im gonna try both trick / modify the pulses from the generators (current setup) and modify the final pulsed signal to the solenoid (for this you WILL need a 10w resistor - otherwise it will get veryy hot).

1st gen tranny ecus are a bit more cleaver but not too much.

today i relised the firm shifts went back to smooth as it compensated for the resistor (i was testing with no switch at time). only way to trick the ecu which i found works 100% of the time is to have a switch and leave it in "stock" mode (bypass resistor). start the car with that drive it a few meters (ie reverse out of driveway) stop car flick to "firm" (ie enable resistor) and it will stay in firm mode as long as you like. its just that inital stage, if you start car with firm mode it will compensate for the resisotor there. (can switch b/w stock / firm as many times as you want when driving tho). apart from that all good. the idea of adding a relay is quite good ill prob do that so i can have the switch on the console (easy access).

Replace the Power switch with a DPDT. That way you can really use it.

yeh looking into that tommorow. that way i can turn it off in the wet and in slow moving traffic .

i cant seem to get it working... i tried switch, shortened lenght of wire, then tried direct and swapped resistors. i'll get a multimeter on monday and check it out tho :cool: im not giving up on the auto just yet :P

yeh ive noticed this too. with the pulsed line A, D/C the line (ie leave that un connnected) and go for a drive works, and leave a switch to switch b/w the resistor. wat ive found now from driving a lot with it is the resistor makes the engine rev out longer by 500rpm or so before a shift, and with the cut pulse generator very firm.

i have tried what you said and i have noticed a big difference on the kick back but little on the upshift.. could this be due to slipping bands??? or somthing else?

**** yeah, my auto is really buggered atm, i have no idea what it is, so i was thinking just chuck it and get a manual, but now ive seen this, i wanna keep the auto (As it has overdrive, which gets better fuel econ, than my old falcon).

just thought id ask around her first if it would be best to get the auto checked/fixed before doing this?

what happens, is when i first start up (like while its still cold) the gearbox is all over the place, i hafta drive like an old lady, else it flips from 2nd to 3rd, to 2nd, etc oh and 1st goes upto 3000 revs, hits neutral, revs out to 5, before dropping in 2nd with a CLUNK and whiplash :P

would that be something as "Simple" as the auto bands need replacing?

**** yeah, my auto is really buggered atm, i have no idea what it is, so i was thinking just chuck it and get a manual, but now ive seen this, i wanna keep the auto (As it has overdrive, which gets better fuel econ, than my old falcon).

just thought id ask around her first if it would be best to get the auto checked/fixed before doing this?

what happens, is when i first start up (like while its still cold) the gearbox is all over the place, i hafta drive like an old lady, else it flips from 2nd to 3rd, to 2nd, etc oh and 1st goes upto 3000 revs, hits neutral, revs out to 5, before dropping in 2nd with a CLUNK and whiplash :P

would that be something as "Simple" as the auto bands need replacing?
get your Throttle Position sensor checked... sounds like what mine was doing when teh carby guy forgot to adjust it... actually - take it down to an auto specialist and tell them what it's doing - they can make sure it's everything is adjusted properly.

have you strengthened your bands or valve body seals? they will wear out quite quickly by making them shift faster

If you install a varaible resistor, can you adjust the smoothness ?

thats the theory

transmission is stock, and still its fine. have done it to other cars (non mitsu) and have been running for wayy longer with no probs. no internals touched.

cool man, it was a good idea. should do some diagrams and put up some info to help the other members

get your Throttle Position sensor checked... sounds like what mine was doing when teh carby guy forgot to adjust it... actually - take it down to an auto specialist and tell them what it's doing - they can make sure it's everything is adjusted properly.

yeah, i been abit worried about doing that cos of the cost and i have no money to spare on the car atm
(getting 2 computers ready for Guildwars)

You don't want to know what my automatic's doing at the moment...

It's taking to "dropping the clutch" at 2800RPM, and changing all over the place. The motor failure was due to the thing kicking down at the wrong time, causing the motor to run hard up against the cutout.

This is on top of the Commodore 4L50 style gearchanges.

cool man, it was a good idea. should do some diagrams and put up some info to help the other members

yes on the diagrams, and items i need

also i was thinking of ripping out my aircon (as it dont work no more and not sure if its worth tryin to get fixed?) and maybe setting up a relay to the aircon switch thats already mounted on my center console

whats the switch for?

You don't want to know what my automatic's doing at the moment...

It's taking to "dropping the clutch" at 2800RPM, and changing all over the place. The motor failure was due to the thing kicking down at the wrong time, causing the motor to run hard up against the cutout.

This is on top of the Commodore 4L50 style gearchanges.

so not the timing chains fault?

er, to bypass the resistor or not.

it use to be to turn the aircon on or off, but the previous owner said they tried getting it fixed, and it lasted about 5 days and then stopped working again, thus y i wanted to rip it out.

so not the timing chains fault?
Not this time. The timing chain was done when the motor was obtained. (As in, I was told it was changed, before they delivered the motor)

The original motor threw the bottom balance shaft chain...

er, to bypass the resistor or not.

it use to be to turn the aircon on or off, but the previous owner said they tried getting it fixed, and it lasted about 5 days and then stopped working again, thus y i wanted to rip it out.

ah so a stealth switch, i getcha. that would be pretty good actualy but you wouldn't need any relays for that just a simple wire going back to the original ECU feed and a switch in the middle

i thought relays were like a signal booster, and since subby was sayin it needed to be fairly close to the ecu, thus i thought id need one?

im not sure, they have 100's of uses but the main one is for when an output from say a ECU isn't enough to drive an actualy component, so you use it as the feed to a relay then whenever that wire gets power then the relay allow through a much larger current to the compnent.

For instance the fuel pump setup on a mates torrana, has 3 pumps and the Haltech would not not have enough current output for even 1 so we used a 80amp relay.

Just like a remote wire on a head unit. the remote wire is just a signal wire for the amp to turn on (in which there is a relay which then allows power to the amp)

yar, but i wouldnt have a clue on how to set one up atm.

My experitise is in computers

are you a l337zor?

was it you who is making computer for guild wars or somethig likt that?

yeah, ive got 2 pcs, ones for gaming, the other for chat, so i can still talk to ppl while playing, instead of having to turn off everything to get the best performance :P

also building my girlfriends pc for guildwars, having abit of trouble as i think the ram is stuffed
(whenever i changed setting in windows, and restart, nothing was saved)

Once ive got all 3 pcs going right, ill be able to blow my money on the car :D
and the first thing that needs fixing is that dam auto, and this is looking WAAAY better than tryin an manual conversion

yeh u could pop a relay in there to controll the switching on/off, and mount the switch to controll the realy as far as you want. but the relay / resistor etc must be fairly close to the ecu, i mean its only outputting tiny voltage here, and any substantial increase in wire means more resistance and that means voltage loss, and this is a sensitve component and it may not work at all (wont damage nothing, just tranny ecu wont get enuff voltage to register a pulse and go wtf? im not gettin a pulse and places it in fail safe mode (limp mode) and locks u into 3rd gear and stops all upshifts and downshifts to prevent any damage).

like i said u dont want this to be on all the time (a switch is a good idea) it gets a bit annoyin in slow movin traffic and tad dangerous in the wet if u cant controll ur car breakin traction at 60km/h (its ok driving straight, but not ok if your takin a corner and the auto decides lets shift from 1st to 2nd :D - torque steer galore!)

yeah thats what i was thinking, as im still studing, i dont wanna be paying for petrol like ive got a v8 (id rather have a v8 instead :P), so like if i was just going down to the store or something, would be cool to leave it off, etc :)

also building my girlfriends pc for guildwars, having abit of trouble as i think the ram is stuffed
(whenever i changed setting in windows, and restart, nothing was saved)



goin off topic, if its windows not saving settings after a reboot its not a ram issue as all ram is erased when u reset a computer because is volitile, windows would save the setting to a file on the harddrive, not the ram
edit: yet as computers is ure expertise u should know that :P

yes i know, but all the stuff that SHOULD be the problem, are not, so now im down to tryin things that sound alittle far fetched :P

ok prolly a stupid question but!!!! can you put a resistor backwards at all??? the one i got is a big white ceramic 1ohm 5 watt one...

ok prolly a stupid question but!!!! can you put a resistor backwards at all??? the one i got is a big white ceramic 1ohm 5 watt one...

Short answer: NO :)

Ok so heres a maybe stupid question from me. Whats to stop you from completely bypassing the tranny ecu output for changing gears. And instead have a triptronic type switch in the cabin, so that when you push 'a button' it sends the same pulse to the autobox that the ecu would normally send? :confused:

hmm i was thinking bout that to, if i could do that i could probley totaly by pass the tps on the carby to....

I like where this is heading, ive got enough electronics, i prefer my cars mechanical, and not with all this electronic **** :gtfo:

I like where this is heading, ive got enough electronics, i prefer my cars mechanical, and not with all this electronic **** :gtfo:

Aw wheres your sense of adveture? Can i use your car as a guinea pig?? :badgrin:

sure :nuts:

just think, with all this electrical ****, if we can make our auto boxes work manualy instead, wouldnt that be more mechanical than having electric **** choose the gear for :P

exactly, or maybe its just my need to be incontrol lol

it would be getting a little TOOOO advanced then. ide try it if i had some time and a auto i could mess around with. bypass the auto ecu altogether. my years worth of electrical engineering subjects should be more than enough to make something pretty simple to do it.

it would be getting a little TOOOO advanced then. ide try it if i had some time and a auto i could mess around with. bypass the auto ecu altogether. my years worth of electrical engineering subjects should be more than enough to make something pretty simple to do it.

All you have to do is simulate the exact output current/voltage from the ECU for up and down shofts using a lever/paddels (off a computer gaming steering wheel :D ).

The only problem with this might be if the ECU has a diagnostic function where it might be monitoring the transmisions functions. If it doesn't recieve the right signal it might keep going into limp mode???

you would be replacing the ecu totaly ;)

you would be replacing the ecu totaly ;)

Good point, forgot we are dealling with mostlly carbs (no other ECU :) )

Well all you have to do is record the outputs from the ecu during sifts both up and down. Then just simulate the corect signal (as long as it's a simple voltage/current).

If I had an auto first gen I'd be game to try it, but since I don't... :cry:

when i work out a few more problems with my first gen ill do the shift kit first then try to work it out

would something like that get thru rego in NSW?

i have no idea at how tough they are over here, since im originally from WA, and over there, they dont care as long as you give em money or havent been yellow/red stickered from the cops :P

(was also thinking of taking off the huge fibre crap under the bonnet, as i dont like how its rubbing agaisnt the motor/spark lines)

would something like that get thru rego in NSW?

i have no idea at how tough they are over here, since im originally from WA, and over there, they dont care as long as you give em money or havent been yellow/red stickered from the cops :P

(was also thinking of taking off the huge fibre crap under the bonnet, as i dont like how its rubbing agaisnt the motor/spark lines)
rego isnt to big a problem for me as i know a few ppl, and as long as it looks stock i cant see a problem :)

also over here its alot harder to avoid red/yellow stickers on cars than to pass rego

if we actually manage to get the auto to work without the ecu, wouldnt that also mean, us auto boys wouldnt need to have a carby with a TPS?

interestin idea.... i might have a play with it. anyone d/c their TPS and did the car just stay in 1 gear and shift at all?

if thats the case can make up a little "tiptronic" style controller / shifter. and it will be truely manual experience. leave it in D, and place an nicely styled leaver switch on the steerin wheel to press to change gears. :D

exactly what i was thinking

(was also thinking of taking off the huge fibre crap under the bonnet, as i dont like how its rubbing agaisnt the motor/spark lines)
...you still have it there, that went off the day i got my 1st gen, as well as the rear window shady thingy and window gard thingys

my brother back in WA freaked me out about how jack holes the rego ppl are in nsw.

and then the parents i got the car off, was telling me how last time, they couldnt get the car rego'd till the passenger side sun deflector was replaced (fell off from child abuse)

if i were back home and knew what i was facing (eg nothing but money loss) then i wouldve done it the first day i got it also :P

interestin idea.... i might have a play with it. anyone d/c their TPS and did the car just stay in 1 gear and shift at all?

if thats the case can make up a little "tiptronic" style controller / shifter. and it will be truely manual experience. leave it in D, and place an nicely styled leaver switch on the steerin wheel to press to change gears. :D


does that mean itll be like playing a game, where u go down 3,2,1,N,R

just wondering how it would get into reverse :P
or Park....
and how would overdrive still work :doubt:

i think the TPS works with changin resistance values or voltage, need to work it out. then its easy to design something to stutitute, the only thing i can think of which will be on the "downside" is say if you floor it wide open throttle it wont automatiocly kick down to 2nd gear (you will have to trigger it) as it will be fully in ur hands to shift up or down.

actually i think, unless u can go directly from say 3rd to N, the downside will be i couldnt do my "sealth mode" thing no more :P

other than that, im all for it

i think the TPS works with changin resistance values or voltage, need to work it out. then its easy to design something to stutitute, the only thing i can think of which will be on the "downside" is say if you floor it wide open throttle it wont automatiocly kick down to 2nd gear (you will have to trigger it) as it will be fully in ur hands to shift up or down.
dont have a problem with that

I've got a working TCU I'll donate to the cause, if you want.

like wise, i have a few

TCU? :confused:

im pretty sure he ment tps

No, Transmission control unit. I've also got a couple of scrapped TPS's, though the car is EFI (Swiped them, whilst I was getting more parts)

ive got 2 TCUs so its all good, i just need to do measurements from the TPS to see whilst driving does it vary voltage, current or resistance, then see the range, then start to make something up :D

oh i love my accurate temp and fuel gauges now all by replacin a $1.20 voltage regulator behind the instrument cluster!

humm 3 wires from the TPS

TPS input
TPS earth
TPS output

judgin by this info it does not deal with change of resistance directly as such, but rather voltage/current variation. the TCU (transmission computer) sends X amount of voltage to the TPS, and as the TPS moves back and forth depending on position of throttle it changes the voltage, and sends this output to the TCU (transmission computer) and using this info it will decide when to downshift or upshift.

measuring voltage IN and voltage OUT isnt going to be hard to do then you will kno the range which you can play with. the TPS in effect is basicly a variable resistor, as the shaft of the TPS moves back and forth it changes resistance and thus voltage.

yup dont be surpised if u see resistors or a potentiometer when i design something for this :badgrin:

this wont as such be able to manualy change gears tiptronic style, but be more of an economy/power mod. ie can set it to always change gears early say 2,500rpm (even when flooring it) or power (let gear shifts happen later before peak torque curve goes down say 4,500rpm).


edit - when u think of it these cars were pretty advanced during their time compared to some cars.

hmmm, sounds interesting, so if diffrent voltages vary when the box shifts up or down based on engine rpm and voltage out of the tps, if u were to make the voltage constant, it would shift only based on rpm, so if u set it to give whatever resistance is at full throttle all the time, then work out what rpms it changes at, and find what signal the tcu gets from the engine speed to make it chance, i could unplug the tps and unplug/cut wires for the other sensors, and desing sometihng to send a constant volatge to the tcu to make it think throttle fully down, and say set the reading it would get off the engine speed to around midway between down**** upshift (say around 4G) and a three way switich that returns to center position, not sure what its called, middle to say the norm i described, up to say read 6000 rpm to make ti shift up and down to read 3000 to make it shift down.................
can you see any faults in this, besides engine damage if i dont shift

**** Stall converter

instead of cutting the sensor for rpms, set up a relay to use that or switch to the box (also when swiching to the real reading have the box send the resistance for NO throttle, find some way to make it automaticly swtich to the real reading if the speed drops below 2 so the stall converter can kick in


any other problems?

er, anywayz, how do rig up the basic resistor and switch for the harder shifts?

and if possible, how would i rig up the relay :redface:

hey subby,
if u could possibly give me the reading the tpu gets when the engine is at 6000rpm, 2000rpm, 3000rpm and 4000rpm,
and resistance by the tps at full throttle and no throttle, i could start to design what i suggested

i would help alot

thanks


and to Terrorsidic if u read threw the thread u should get the genral idea, i cbf explain it properly atm, google might help, ill write up how to tommorow morning though, i wrote all the stuff before so i remembered properly, i currenly have my tn in bits in my driveway, well back to it, cya or maybee later on tonite, sorry that i cant do it right now

ok

been thinking about this more

thinking of having a box contain a circut i make with a 3 way switch that can be mounted elsewere, (on the stearin wheel, next to the gear shifter, ect

what to do...




Inputs to box.....lines that went to tcu what speed the engine is at, 12 volts from battry to make the current i send to the tcu




circut, something that will use a three way switch that returns to center position and the engine speed also as a switch when speed goes below 2000rpm




output to tcu

when engine speed drops below 2000 rpm send 0rpm engine speed and 0 throttle to tcu, when above that, goes to pysical switch
switch in netural( center ) sends current to ecu saying 4000 rpm full throttle (driving gear fully engadge)
switch down sends current to ecu saying 3000 rpm full throttle to toggle down shift
switch up sends current to ecu saying 6000 rpm full trottle to toggle up shift



if anyone can confirm that the rpms i selected should be fine as in
3000 rpm full throttle down shift
4000 rpm full throttle no shift
6000 rpm full throttle up shift


if im wrong please correct me and ill start seeing how easy this will be to make

its ok, it wont be till next weekend ill have some spare cash, as to how much is a question i cannot answer yet.

so hopefully with the spare cash, and how much the parts cost, i can do it that weekend or after, and finally start to enjoy the magna (and not get laughed at so much)

Terrorsidic, to do the first mod with a total cost of 1 resistor a couple of wires and 1 relay (so definiatly under $5)}

you need to cut the wire comming off pin 6 on the B conector (See the diagram below was also earlyer in the most) less than 10 cm from the tcu, so pretty much straight after it, then attach ure relay, to the relay u attach ure wires goin to the switch thats inside the car, and a wire and a resistor with a wire after it, connect to wire from the resistor and the normal wire together then connect them to the wire u cut heading to the trans, make it all neat, the resistor must be less and 10 cm from the pin make it as close as posible

put the switch for the relay were ever ya want, like u said even use the the ac switch

now make sure its switch to use the straight wire not the resistor, drive ure car a few meters, switch to use the resistor, turn it back to using the wire when u turn ure car off, turn it back to resitor when u want to , yet only after drivin the car a few meters,

hope this helps ya

Parts and costs
parts
Relay (anyone should do realy)
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4220661b032cc8482741c0a87f9c06ab/Product/View/P8035
switch (anyone should do realy)
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4220661b032cc8482741c0a87f9c06ab/Product/View/P7540
Resistor( 5 Watt 1.0 Ohm )
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4220661b032cc8482741c0a87f9c06ab/Product/View/R1602
some wire (normal small insulated wire should be fine) i chose 3M of the stuff so i can mount the switch with alot of flexiblitity and room for error (and at 40 cents a meter who realy cares)
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/42206bab0ff745b62740c0a87f9c0756/Product/View/W2262

costs
total
10.24 with all new fancy parts
itemised
Resistor 30 cents at DSE
Relay $4.96 at DSE
Switch $3.78 at DSE
wire $1.20 at DSE
a beter than manual transmition...priceless
there are some thigns money cant buy.......................................

just soldier it together and away u go, or u could use crimps and stuff yet then that would cost a few more cents


sorry i was wrong about the sub $5 yet u could probley find most of it ureself anyway

ok cost me 8 75 all up, thats with me proving a swtich and spare wire, yet i also bought a few other restors to play aorund with, its installed

a few tips, BE CAREFULL UNDOING THE CONSOLE MINE HAS GONE FROM BEING A BIT BROKEN TO BEING TOTALY ****ED,

just so u have a better idea were it is, the gregorys its pretty sketchy, the tcu is right at the back kinda on the firewall in the cabin, take off all the center console, not just to the radio yet the last bit to, under that carpet at the back is were it is, its a white wire, u will need to take off some tape to have a bit of wire to play with

ill post how mine goes when dad stops being a dick and moves his car

OH MY F*****G GOD

I dont know if its the fact i changed the carby and manifold ( still only stock parts)
or the gaket for the intake and exhaust
or if its the shift kit
YET MY CAR HAS NEVER DRIVING LIKE THAT BEFORE, IT ACTUALY ACELERATED, WHEEL SPUN WHEN I PLANTED IT AROUND CORNERS, IT WAS ****ING CRAZY, in the time it used to take me to get to 60 im over 100, gear shifts so much nicer

im sure what effect the kit had on it and cant find out atm as my intake manifold gasket is stuffed again, YET OMG I LOVE MY CAR

woot, im rich again for another week :D

time to get me some bits from dickie

hope all goes well, lol, my car is so stuffed at the moment, one problem pops up as soon as anothers fixed, yet hopefully this week ill start my tip tronic mod, shouldnt be to hard

OH MY F*****G GOD

I dont know if its the fact i changed the carby and manifold ( still only stock parts)
or the gaket for the intake and exhaust
or if its the shift kit
YET MY CAR HAS NEVER DRIVING LIKE THAT BEFORE, IT ACTUALY ACELERATED, WHEEL SPUN WHEN I PLANTED IT AROUND CORNERS, IT WAS ****ING CRAZY, in the time it used to take me to get to 60 im over 100, gear shifts so much nicer

im sure what effect the kit had on it and cant find out atm as my intake manifold gasket is stuffed again, YET OMG I LOVE MY CAR
secondary release dashpots were siezed i betcha...

nah 2ndrys always worked, im thinkin it was the vacumme on the rest of the ****, cause i changed a bit when i went to change the manifold back and its back to dogsh!t actualy worse than that cause it wont turn on

but there is only two things which change which will increase power, vacuum setup has nothing to do with power and torque at WOT because WOT means you have no vacuum. could have been either secondarys not releasing fully or a fueling problem with the secondarys

but there is only two things which change which will increase power, vacuum setup has nothing to do with power and torque at WOT because WOT means you have no vacuum. could have been either secondarys not releasing fully or a fueling problem with the secondarys
K, looks like ill rebuild my carby.....this is genna be fun

i had a go of tryin to do this, and i got stuck at taking appart the bit where the radio sits.

i was an idiot and tried using force to take the seized nuts off, which ended up stripping the groove where the screwdriver sits, and in my pissed off mood about now not being able to take em off, i smashed the centre console apart to get the **** off and ended up with some grazed knuckles :P

so as the score stands now;
Terror: 3
Magna: 1

anywayz, i think theres a clamp thing i can use to twist em off slowly.

Looking at my A/C switch, its got 5 wires on it, and its confusing

theres 2 black wires, one is solid black, the bottom of the 2 black wires has a green stripe, next to the bottom black wire is a green wire with a black stripe.
when the button is depressed, it makes a connection to the blue wire that has an orange stripe
(the circles are the led's)(i was thinking id keep the plug as its needed to make removing the cover easy, so ill hack into the wires i need to goto the relay, after the plug thing)

which wires do i need to cut and make go down to the relay? :confused:

EDIT WARNING, MAKE SURE NON OF THE WIRES ON THE SWITCH ARE GROUND, IF THEY ARE THEN I WOULDNT USE IT TO SWITCH THE 12 VOLT POSITVE, YET INSTEAD USE IT FOR THE GROUND AND RUN THE OTHER RELAY WIRE DIRECT TO POSITVE INSTEAD

ok i am having trouble getting what ure post says

Yet as i have exlained to u in the email, you need 12 volts to go threw the relay to make it turn on, so the two wires that go out of the relay need to goto the battry kinda, for ground u can pretty much use any part of the metal of the car almost, for 12 volt positve you should be able to jump into you radios constant power or just run a cable from the fuse box in the car,

what u need the air con switch to do is turn the 12 volt line on and off, so get two wires on the air con switch that are joined when its set to on, and not joined when its set to off, and use those wires,

hope this helps

sorry, forgot to re-read it, been busy playing lineage2 :redface:

but that does help, the A/C switch was just alittle confusing cos it includes wires for the led's, i just hope that 12volts goes thru it, else im gonna hafta try n find the power and hack into it.


After demolishing the centre console, ive decided to build an nice low profile metal one (with some bloody cup holders :P) might see if i can hide a small amp under it :)

PS. i hate those plastic bolt things that mitsubishi uses :rant:

if you squirm you should be able to access it without pulling it all apart, i pulled it all apart the first time. Second time i just undid that plastic side panel with the dodgy clips, and pulled the carpet up and its there. bit fiddly but better than pullilng all centre console out.

yar, i was thinking that after finally reaching it, but im sorta glad that its in bits now, cos i hated how it was a huge waste of space underneath and the radio (soon to be cd player) is at an angle

I must be the biggest idiot in the world right about now, cause I don't understand a damn thing being said or the explanations as to what's been given for it. to the fact I'm barely game to f*** up my transmission, would be nice to understand it :roll: :redface: think i'll just get a manual after my tcu has destroyed my autobox for me.

its just confusing in the last few posts, cos im tryin to make a stealth switch to turn the auto mod on and off, by using the air con switch, (which no longer has a purpose since i ripped out the air con the other day).

I can do pictures of everything if you like, and maybe re-write the instructions in, us not so electronically minded, way :P

since i dont have a soldering iron, or wire cutters, ill be doing it with my trusty pocket knife and duct tape :nuts:

no, sorry, not just the last few posts.... ALL of it. ehh, guess i'll just disreguard this thread, can't understand it at all.

eep, didnt edit my previous post fast enough :P

oh i'm electronically minded, very, i just must be completely absent minded to this thread.
yeah, pics and actual instructions as to the goings of this would help. so long as what you did actually worked...

i couldnt get it to work...mind you after i tried i was too lazy to put it together again, and tried the car without soldering back up the cut pulse generator wire, and it made no difference, so I'm not sure what the go was. I didn't have a multimeter on hand which was unfortunate, but maybe another day. Now that i got a spare engine i dont need to fiddle with the trans control unit to keep me amused :)

I must be the biggest idiot in the world right about now, cause I don't understand a damn thing being said or the explanations as to what's been given for it. to the fact I'm barely game to f*** up my transmission, would be nice to understand it :roll: :redface: think i'll just get a manual after my tcu has destroyed my autobox for me.
http://home.iprimus.com.au/ldnash/new_all_coholic.GIF













i dont really know either lol lol

ive made a diagram that might be better (really depends if it makes sense to you guys)
and ill get some pics tomorrow in the sunlight to make sense of the diagram :P

http://home.iprimus.com.au/ldnash/new_all_coholic.GIF













i dont really know either lol lol
what do you care??? you got a manual!!!:gtfo:

Us auto boys will kick your behind...








not:D

....Us auto boys will kick your behind...


thats the plan :D

anyone know the colour of the 12v wire to the radio is?

after reading one of notorius's post, his 6pin on the b connector was white, while mine was black with a white line, so i guess theyre all ****ed up :(

proivded its the same plug and same wire goin into the plug into the ecu u should be fine, its probley just a diffrent colour cause its newer/older or something and they might of changed the colour

ok i went to see if i oculd find my 12volt constant......and remember when i got the car the wires were fu**ed up pretty bad from the stock radio and then ran my own,

here is were i would suggest running a cable from the battery, yet getting a wire threw the firewall was a bit of a ***** for me. so as you only need the power to the relay to switch it on after you have drivin it for a a few meters. find a power line that live when the car is on, so yeah normal power to the radio, power to cigarette lighter ect, and run that straight to one of the switch wires on the relay

then put the other switch wire from the relay to a wire on the AC switch then when the switch is on find what other wire it connects with and earth that to the cars chassie somewere.

to the person who cant quite understand this thread ill try to do a nice easy write up for you in a minute

heres more help just in case

Orange this is the relay, not the switch

How To For Anyone Interested Who Cant Work It Out From The Thread

TY, will check it later.
riddled with spelling and grammar mistakes, I may have to take you to school lol

edit
sorry, still cant understand it ,mainly due to 'i thinks', spelling mistakes and not so cleara directions. nice attempt, but i'd rather a schematic that is assured. :cry:

ok as u said ure ellectronicly minded, so its pretty much this

bigger resister on pin 6 plug B the firmer the shift, 1 ohms was found to be the best

yet cant be there when u first turn on the car or the car compensates, so u need to have the resisitor not connected when u turn the car on

yet it doesnt seem to work if the switch is further away than 10 cm, so u use a relay there

ill trey to make a schematic for ya a bit later, cleaning my room atm

TY, will check it later.
riddled with spelling and grammar mistakes, I may have to take you to school lol

edit
sorry, still cant understand it ,mainly due to 'i thinks', spelling mistakes and not so cleara directions. nice attempt, but i'd rather a schematic that is assured. :cry:

well arnt u fussy :P


is this the sorta thing ur after?

ok as u said ure ellectronicly minded, so its pretty much this

bigger resister on pin 6 plug B the firmer the shift, 1 ohms was found to be the best

yet cant be there when u first turn on the car or the car compensates, so u need to have the resisitor not connected when u turn the car on

yet it doesnt seem to work if the switch is further away than 10 cm, so u use a relay there

ill trey to make a schematic for ya a bit later, cleaning my room atm
Hey I think your instructions would be alot clearer if you could actually use the number labels for the relay pins. If you could replace the 'decribed pins' (i.e. center top etc) with the number labels it'd make things a lot easier. I believe the numbers are 85, 86, 87, 87a, and 30.

85 - 12v power
86 - ground

87a - no resistor circuit (when theres no power to the relay)
87 - resistor circuit
(both these join together and go toward the transmission)

30 - from the tcu

happy?
its all labeled on the relay when u buy it

well, i cant get mine to work :(

is there suppose to be like a *thud* when changing gears, cos i cant get mine to feel any diff than normal,
tho i think when i had the 1.55ohm resisitor in, it would hold out abit longer (i switched back n forth a few times), but that could just be me :cry:

hmm, it should work, its all done less that 10cm from the tcu?

yep, its roughly 7cm or so, thinking i might hafta come visit ya, so i can use some of ur expertise :P

after reading some of subby's posts at the begining, i think the 5w 1.5ohm might actually be working, if i can notice a small diff, but he says that 1-2 shift is firm, where my gear changes are just like normal, but im pretty sure it holds out longer before changing (like 1000-1500rpm more)

maybe i need some high rated resistors? :confused:
(like 5w 2ohm + )

see, sorry boys, but unless you can get it working, teh, like im gonna risk my fully functional magna, lol

mine still works fine, i just cant get it to engage the resistor and those hard/firm shifts.

doesnt mean the car is totally ****ed :P

the shifts are gonna be firmer and all, coz the gbox is now acting like a non electric gearbox. so you dont have the smoothness behind it. in not having experienced what you are, if i was to drive our 66 automatic, it is a completely different feel for gears, with the 1st gear having a bit of the clunk and the 2-3 gear its actually cant remember, havent driven it for a while, lol, but theres a heck of a feel differnece, specially if the gearbox is only made to 'think' its an old school gearbox.

ive driven an old skool auto, my friend back in WA had a v8 statesmen (it was a 2 halfs of something joined together and lowered so low, that normal little speed bumps would scrape) going thru one of those bulletproof column shifts, i put my foot down a little and it goes CLUNK, and then purrs upto 60, then i came to an intersection, even with the power steering, the thing was a ***** to turn, then i gave it some stick ... mmm

anywayz,i hate how i loose so much power/torque/woteva thru the gearbox tryin to make smooth shifts, and im hoping with this mod that itll be as quick as my manual shifts in the old falcon :D

i went over to notorius's place today so he could have a look at my setup, thankfully my wiring wasnt as bad as i thought, but he fixed it up nicely for me :)

still cant get those firmer shifts, but we did manage to get the auto into limp mode :P

i think we agreed on that my auto is old/worn/stuffed and thus we didnt feel the firmer shifts, because it was revving out further when it was on.

oh well, need to figure it out, else my other option is to run the auto into the ground and get a manual replacement :D

oh well, need to figure it out, else my other option is to run the auto into the ground and get a manual replacement :D
that was my plan, but my rebuild just keeps going and going, its gonna be ages b4 my auto dies.
no im not killing it on purpose.

give it a few reverse to first dumps then a slam into park at 60 and presto dead box

still cant get those firmer shifts, but we did manage to get the auto into limp mode :P

yeah and man those limp mode shifts were fun, lol, i gota work out how to have a limp mode shift all the time lol


and yes limp mode is stuck in 3rd yet it still shifts twice to get there and those 2 shifts are firm

too harsh for me tho

so after rereading this thread... i'm wondering if anyone got it working?

well i'll answer for you... probably not, cos what subby said in his original post was to mod the signal to the solenoids... yet gave instructions to put the mod on the pulse generator.

solenoids will vary with current, not pulse generator... screwing with the pulse gen signal will put your TCU into limp mode.

anyhoo... i've been studying the TCU and the signaling... and i'm soon gonna be trying some stuff with the signals to the auto.

either gonna be a new TCU design using a PIC or ATMEL, or an add-on to the mitsu TCU.

cbf'd looking thru 14 pages, not sure if ive said it already but didnt get it to work. in fact i left the wires cut doing nothing and the car still ran fine! eventually put them back together for reassurance. I seem to just be happy that the car runs nowadays rather than modding!