just want some ideas

front spk around $1200.00 what would you buy

amp to run above spks around $800-1000.00

and a amp to run 2 subs each at 250W RMS around $1000.00

if can pls. give model no. not just brand


thanks

1200 for front speakers?? dam!!!

I paid 650 for my boston accoustic Rally edition splits 12 months ago new.

and for a little extra he threw int eh same edition 6x9's - 1000 all up for speakers.

I have a Kicker KX600.4 running these speakers and it is bloody loud and superbly clear!! the amp cost 800 bucks.

There is also almost 250 bucks in wire running through my car - good quality wire is as important as good quality gear!!

My system cranks and there is enough bass to keep me happy yet not fill my boot with subs!!

When I finish teh boot install picks will be taken.

Manual

i believe for 1200 you can purchase Focal Utopia component speakers, these are top of the range and I have heard great things about them. Does anyone know what the F1 Alpine range of component speakers retail for because they sound good too (huge crossovers which look damn good). By the way you seem to be spending a lot of money on this set up, I mean do you plan on competing in SQ competitions or something?

DONT WASTE your money Megatron!!!! :P
Give it to me :D
get yourself a nice body upgrade... Like my Bonnet :)
Haydn

MB Quart in my opinion. Thats what i will be putting in my next ride.

no not comps i just want SQ

i had big SPL before and no matter how much i spent someone always did better the next time around

so i dont believe in comps anymore its just a matter of whos got the most money or the biggest budget for advetertising (car audio store)

it not what SPL u can get out of the subs or a good box design
just more cash = SPL

just my two words

but the focal utopia seems the way to go, now i am just looking for amps

i havn't may up my mind on buying this stuff yet just asking for opinions


thanks

Hey man - i agree!!

Go to places and listen to the components and when u hear something u like - take it - 1200 is a sh!t for speakers!

Manual

Splits

see if you can find Alpine DDDrive Splits, tahts wat i have,a nd theyre ***kin sweet. the best for soudns quality.
MB Quart are sweet too, good name
Pioneer Bullets, if you want sumthin cheaper (but by ur price u obviously dont)
Amp
Alpine V12 series or Crossfire TEK series, or earthquake

I've got Boston Pro Series Splits, RRP ~$999 - very nice

But my 6month old PG 600.4 amp just died this afternoon :mad:

$1200 for apeakers is very nice... i would look at the focal utopia i think they retail fo $1299 for a 3 way split system. i think its a 7inch and a 4 inch and a tweeter but apparently they sound very nice..... or mbquartz q series =]

or diamond audio or cdt, dynaudio, infinity, a/d/s eclispe but then you got to match the speaker to the type of music you listen too as well.
for good sq the installation is more important then the speaker you choose.

sub amp. depending on what subs..... i would go crossfire tek 150.2 would be ideal, if u want a good bargain on amp check out the quokka but make sure you test it out and hear it be4 u buy it.... if u live in perth the rollaboys for sale section is prety good or car audio australia for australia wide....

amp for the speakers.... may as well try and match the same brands... dont buy an alphine or pioneer or sony amp its just waste of money. go for a high end amp that wont distort when u turn the deck pass 20

-=jon=-

If the volume is at 20 on the deck, what does it go up to? On mine that's only 40% total volume! If any amp (not speakers) is producing distortion at that level (40%), then the gain control has probably been set way way way too high.

[quote:564be08795]
Yeah, that's something I've always wanted to know. At what point is my amp producing enough watts to damage my speakers. It doesn't go loud often. My HU goes from 0 - 40 and the gain on the amp is about 50%. I usually cruise around at 20 and at the most I'll take it to 30. The amp puts out 45W RMS per channel at 12.2v and the speakers are rated at 50W RMS and 200W max.

Anyway, I don't think there's a straight answer. I've had 110dB out of it and that's just from 6.5's and 6x9's.
[/quote:564be08795]

If your speakers are rated at 50W RMS, then your 4 x 45W RMS amp shouldn't damage your speakers at all (unless it is very distored power your amps are producing).

The easiest way to check your gain control is set ok (approximately) is to check on your amp what the input line voltage range is and set the level to where you think 5V (the pre-out level from your h/u) is in that range.

I've never measured mine, but I had my ears ringing and starting to hurt when I took my h/u to 30 (60% total volume) and kept it there for a whole song...so I'm guessing that it was somewhere around 115-120dB (the threshold of pain is around 120dB). Don't do that much though...I usually cruise around with the volume at 17-18 (not too load, not too soft...just enough kick to it).

the gain on an amp isnt a volume control..... you need to match the input voltage with the output voltage..... if you have a decent deck and a good amp. then you can turn the deck to max without producing any distortion at all........
if a speaker is rated at 50wrms you will do more damage to them by giving the 40wrms then you would 70w rms.....
as long as its nice clean power those 50wrms speakers can take 90... 100 even more if everything is set up nice....
you dont kill speakers from overpower you kill speakers by distorting them and putting dc current through the voice coil....best way to set up the gains is to turn the gains off....... turn the deck up to where u want it. say 80%-85% voluem..... then turn the gains slowly just before distortion occurs as long as crossovers are set up good it will be ok

In theory yes...really good amps and h/u shouldn't produce much noticable distortion, but if you're going to set your amps that way, then the h/u needs to be set at a *FLAT* frequency responce without any EQ/DSP/bass-treble/Bass Boost/etc settings turned on. I don't think many of us drive around listening to music with a flat frequence responce???

50W RMS speakers that are rated at 200W Max means they can safely handle 200W RMS momentarily. Pumping 80-90W RMS continuosly through speakers only rated at 50W RMS will burn out the voice coil in the speaker.

It depends on your setup, but yes, it's possible. If you back off the gain slightly you should be able to get clearer undistorted sound at higher volumes. Don't back it off too much though, as it may 'cause too much distorted power go to your speakers if crank the volume too much.

Does your h/u have dynamic compression? If the sound is distorting too much, try turning that on first (although the music will lose some of its "kick" if you do).

i was just wondering, how much do people here spend on car audio?? i know my tally is getting up there! as it is - H/U - $1000, speakers - $1000, subs - $2000, amps - currently $1000, sooon to be about $4000!!

that would total over $8000 without installation and wiring, or dvd or tv!! bloody hell i should save some money...........

hehehe :) I'm no where near that amount, but yeah...I know the feeling!

Dynamic compression (sometimes also called auto-levelling) "smoothes out" the dynamic range of the music on the fly. It boosts the low parts of the music slightly, and decreases the high parts slightly so you get a more consistent sound level. The disadvantage is that you lose some of the real "punch" to the music.

It started off back in the 80's as just a normal compression filter for CD players as cassette decks can't handle the dynamic range of CD's.

dynamic compression is just like loudness right?
increase the 45hz by +3db and somewhere at the other end
???????


all up i've spent $5500 without installation
thats 1 set of speakers, 2 amps, H/U and 1 sub and a cap

No, it's sort of the opposite, but not really...I guess that doesn't make sense?

Think of it as a volume/eq control in a strange kind of way. Say you've got a song cranked and a big bass drum note comes along. It'll think "oh sh*t...I'm about to distort if I keep playing at this level...better be safe and back it off a tad". Then once it's finished, it'll think oh too low now, better boost it up a bit! It doesn't just work on bass notes...it works on the the whole frequency range (trying to keep it a smooth consistent level).

Mine has it, and I've seen it on a Panasonic h/u once (that's why I thought Redav's might have it). But I haven't seen it on any others. Does anyone else have it on theres???

So basically it is more like a volumecontrol - ut instead of adjusting the volume it adjusts the entire frequency range of the music - and lowers the outputs at all frequncies?? I woulda thought it had the same affect as the volume nob!!

Manual

Yeah...kind of. It's basically just a way to reduce the difference b/w the softest and loudest part of a song. It kind of works like this:


Input Signal ---> |Auto Level Control| ---> Output Signal
^ |
| |
---------------------------


Hope that makes sense?

Yeah I gotcha!!

Manual

Spent approx. $3600...that was enough for me. Saved a bit by knowing the right people and doing the install myself.

yeah..... $2500 here too.... I want more but there comes a time when you realise there are far more important things to spend money on. :(

Yeah my system is worth 2500 - and the custom boot isn't finished yet!!

But all install I have done myself and have saved alot of money doing it that way!!

Manual

yeah... same... do the install yourself and save a lot of money.

mind you, I spent a lot of time doing my custom boot install only to have it destroyed by a landcruiser with a bullbar :x

dont no about dynamic compression but mine has a built in microphone and depending on the road noise it will mke it louder or softer but i've never used it..... and it has another thing so u set where the passengers are sitting and it will optimize the correct voluem for each speaker etc

Mine has that too, but I've never bothered to set it up! It works by using DSP.