Hi,

I'm an older newbie (50+) and have a KJ Verada AWD from new which I've just had lowered (about 20 to 25mm) and the original Turanza tyres replaced with same sized Yokohama 539's. As the car is still under warranty, work was done through my local Mitsu dealer. Now body roll is gone, intermittent suspension noise is gone and tyre noise is gone but the steering is now a bit vague in the straight ahead position. Has anyone else had this problem and how did you fix it?

Roble :confused:

4 wheel alignment. Unless the front and rear was lowered by an uneven amount, there will be no change in steering feel.

steering is now a bit vague in the straight ahead position. Has anyone else had this problem and how did you fix it?

Roble :confused:
Dude, I have lowered (50mm) and added upgraded swaybars front and rear, strut brace and anti-lift camber kit and a castor kit. All professionally done. I agree now the car doesn't like to sit straight ahead it chooses on the hour to drift left or right. I believe it has something to do with steering response. Normally the car has so much play that it dampers out all the road so drives straight (ie wheel and steering not rigid) but now where you hold the steering the car goes.

I also think that it has to do where you let the steering rest. If you leave the car all night with it full lock one way or the other the car then drifts that way the next day.

Hmm didn't help you at all did I? I was just expressing the same opinion.

the problem you are having is caused by your wheel alignment, most places will do an alignment on any car using the settings saved in their computer, this is fine for a standard car but once you mess around with suspension components and big wheels then you will run into problems


i had this problem with my ts, (lowered about 45-50mm rolling on 18x235's)
the dam thing was touchy as all hell, even bump the wheel at highway speeds and it would jump into the other lane,

took the car back and got them to increase the toe in on the front from 1.5mm to 3mm, (at great protest of the tyre joint involved, they went on about it would chew the tyres etc,mine havent done this, dont listen to tyre joints, they are full of crap :D )

anyway we set the toe to 3mm total and now it sits exactly where ya put it, the car feels more "sure footed" you could say. also handles a ****load better on the highway (i can dart between lanes at 200km/h and not slip an inch, this was of course tested on the track :D )

the only downside is running that might toe it doesnt corner quite as well as it could, perhaps once i fit a set of camber adjusters i will alter the alignment and change the toe to about 2.5-2.8mm, will have to see.

my TJawd isnt lowered... but the steering is pretty vague (lots of play)....

it does sit in a straight line quite well... but steering input is not that 'sure footed'...if that makes sense. (it even seems to take more steering turns to go around corners than it seems it should).

i had a 4 wheel alingment when i bought it... and that seemed to help...but not much.
(standard shocks, springs, heigh, tyres).

i find my car drifts left or right depending which way the road is angled.... lol

Those who want their car to steer straight without their hands on the wheel are dreaming, as mentioned above, roads are very seldom 100% flat laterally. When you increase suspension spring rate you always make the car more easily unsettled by bumps and imperfections in the road which affect directional stability.

As for running 1.5mm toe in on each side, well each to their own. I personally would not run that much as I prefer better turn in rather than straight line stability.

Hi All,

Something pops into my head while reading this thread and would like to share it with you guys.

About a year ago, I decided to lower my TH Magna Solara with King Spring. I am pretty sure it was power low. At that time, the car has its original mag wheels (15"). I brought it to the local suspension specialists and had it done... It look pretty cool and the cornering were really good and no body roll at all.. Soon, I discover something is not right, when the automatic gear changed from 2nd to 3rd, there were some sort of vibration and shaking in the car. Not sure what it is.. Just to be sure, I tested it for a few more days and decided to bring it back to the shop.. They couldn't find anything wrong... so, I decided to bring it to the Mitsubishi dealer to have it checked out... After leaving the car with them for one day, they found out that the vibration actually comes from the shaft (I think.. as I am not good at car mechanically...) and due to the car being lowered, the angle of the shaft didn't sit in properly in the right place and causes the car to vibrate. I am pretty sure that is what they told me....... So, I have to bring it back to the shop and have the original springs put back.. The vibration gone after since... bummer.

Can anyone tell me if they have the same problem at all when they have their Magna lowered? Can anyone tell me what is the actual problem and how to resolve this?

Thanks...

yeah - i have just lowered mine, and found that as above the car doesnt like to go in a straight line like it used to.. its very very subtle but its definately different.
also, as above there is a slight vibration when labouring or taking off from the driveshafts..

i find my car drifts left or right depending which way the road is angled.... lol

and how much hand brake is applied :bowrofl: :gtfo:

or as i found out before getting my new tyres.......it can drift left AND right and left again, with no handbrake at all...... :bowrofl:

Last Saturday, I finally got the vehicle back to the suspension supplier to have the wheel alignment re-checked. I had done about 700 kms so the new springs should now be well settled in. The check showed that all settings were within spec with 0.5deg negative chamber on the front (didn't get back!) and 0.4mm toe in front and 1mm toe in rear. Interestingly, I was told the Mitsu spec for toe in on my AWD is 0mm +/- 3mm!!

Anyhow, both front and rear were reset to positive 2mm, ie 1mm toe in per wheel, and I'm happy with the result. Vagueness in the straight ahead position is substantially reduced; the effort to turn the steering wheel is back where it was as is the re-centreing force after turning (the "lightness" is gone); and the vehicle doesn't follow the camber of the road anywhere near as much. No tyre squeal on hard cornering either.

Overall, now very happy with my suspension mod :thumbsup:

Roble

Had the girl taken to the same suspension place that did the lowering and they have re-done the alighnment, they said that the front and rears were both out and that pothole and hard driving can do that. I am unsure as to whether I drive it that hard.


Anyway they said that different suspension places will run different settings but they set it up like this

Front L R
Camber 1.5°- 1.25°-
Castor 3.5°+ 3.25°+
Toe 2mm in
Rear L R
Camber 1.75°- 1.75°-
Castor No available on this vehicle
Toe 3mm in

The tyres really need to warm up. The car was pulling hard right (was left the day before) in the morning wnet and put some air in the tyres (put 38psi in them all, but 35psi is the placard maximum, justy an experiment) and the car started to run very true. slightly affected by the camber of the road but I guess the extra camber on the left front is meant to cancel that out.

Cost $75 but well worth it since I will be doing 4500km over xmas.