Hey Team,

Recently my battery went belly up and needed replacing. No big deal. But soon after the car wouldn't idle. It would start and run, but if I took my foot off the gas it would stall. I adjusted the idle and everything seemed OK for about 2-3 months or so then the same thing happened again (the idle went bad and I had to adjust it). It's idling OK at the moment but obviously the adjustment is about 3-4 turns above what it was.
A friend of mine said that a spike can be put through the system when a battery is connected (especially if the contact is dragged accidently) and that it may have confused the ECU. If I disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and reconnect it then the problem may go away.

Can anyone confirm or deny that?

Cheers
Abb0

give it a go, couldnt hurt

That's what I think but as I'm new to the "fuel injection/my car is controlled by a computer" side of things, I thought I would ask first.

See, not all Kiwis just jump in with the eyes closed.

Cheers

lol no worries man

keep us posted on what happens..

Yeah i've had mine do a similar thing. To fix:

Disconnect Battery
Using something metal, connect the +ve lead to the -ve lead, hold for a few seconds (this removes and residual charge in the computer).
Reconnect battery.
Start Car.
Leave idling for 20-30 mins.
Then you should be right.

Beauty :D

I'll try that tonight.

Thanks

If that doesn't work, it could be the Idle Speed Control motor. I really think we need a FAQ on that one now.

Have Your Idle Speed Controller Motor Checked. You Get Really Bad Inconsistant Idle When The Motor Has Had It. Replaced Mine, It Worked Wonders For Me.

i have a throttle position sensor ... not sure if it's the same thing ... brand new ... it controls the revs and stops it from idleling up and down all the time

I know exactly what you mean ! . First the stalling could be a computer problem that i'm told by Mitsubishi is more common than not in the TR/TS. To find out if this is your problem mitsubishi will have to run tests on your computer and this will cost a fortune $450-$700. I said f**k that and went around looking for a cheaper alternative. What I found was great!!.
Go down to your local K-MART mechanics and tell them you want:
Electrics checked, Injectors cleaned, Throttle body cleaned(and sensors replaced), 8mm TopGun plaug leads( $80-they get them from REPCO ), Platnum plugs in the back( $25 each ) and a detox for the fuel line. A general inspection should be included in the total price ( around $250 ). I had this done and has been the best $200+ ever spent. Ideling has been improved, throttle responce is now instant( auto and can wheel spin in drive ), fuel econ has improved and now with the throttle the way it is i'm pretty sure i have the fastest 2nd gen in town. Try this first and see how it goes for you. It's alot better than forking out $700 and getting no improvements. Hope this helps.

What about the air bypass screw the also controls the idle without adjusting the tps (throttle position sensor) which also controls oil flow through the trans