Okay kind of a poll for all of you

What oil do you use and why?

I am running Magnatec in mine, that was what was in it when I purchased it, but noticed someone's post in this forum saying that anything Castrol shouldn't be used.

Mine is 3L 5sp TF Sedan, 100,000kms. Suggestions welcome.

currently using penzoil 20w50. forget what its actually called but am thinking of trying something different next time as the tappets are a little noisey with it.

Who said castol shouldn't be used? I use magnatech and don't have any problems with it. I change mine every 5,000kms.

I ran some penzoil 10w40 synthetic blend for about 5000 before my last service and couldn't fault it. Currently on whatever zupps at mt gravatt put in at 45000 - and I will be supplying my own choice of oil at the next service.

I too have heard people put down the castrol oils - but I got the impression they were talking about the GTX series (it's pretty standard mineral oil after all). I've heard nothing but good things about magnatec in 3rd gen magnas - but probably more to do with the fact that it is the recommended rating (10w40) more than that it actually contains microscopic magnets :bowrofl: .

I've got a bottle of Castrol GTX 3 that I will put in my TJ on Monday. I'll let you know how it goes.

Reading thru the handbook the other day and came accross a note on oil.Which said not to use straight mineral oil, looking thru it now can't find the bl**dy thing.So what they mean straight mineral??? oil.

Im assuming a mineral based oil as apposed to semi synthetic (mineral / synthetic blend) or a fully synthetic oil.

I honestly think Castol Magnatech is a good oil with good cleaning qualities about it. Change it regularly (please don't stick to 15,000kms services!) and your car will be going for a long long time to come.

i read a report comparing the oils a while ago but cant for the life of me find where it was. Anyway it said that castrol oils were pretty poor and that magnatec was exceptionally bad on older cars. For newer models it was an average oil while not being outstanding it could not be faulted. Motul was rated as one of the top oils with i think pennzoil and another brand i cant remember.

Magnatec is bad on older cars because it's so thin. That's only reason why.

As engines get older they get more wear and distances between parts get larger, so a thicker oil is generally required.

I use magnatech in mine, but it's a young engine and not what anyone else here has so I dunno if it's a good example lol...but at least you know.

Shell Helix Plus 15w50 here. Nothing exceptional but no problems with it either so I'll probably stick with it. I prefer to use something a little thicker than Magnatec anyway.

Honestly im a firm believer that using an average oil and changing it every 5,000kms is better than using a good oil and changing every 15,000kms.

I'm with Blake. Although I've yet to get 5000km between breakdowns...

I do oil and oil filter changes every 7500km so twice the service interval.
It depends on how you drive the car.
5000km would be a bit excessive for me since I don't drive particularly hard most of the time. Still, it can do no harm. Better yet if you can change them yourself and save some money.

I posted somewhere else that I when my cars cold, the lifters are ticking away which goes when its warm... Suggestion was to change oil. Has anyone had/have this experience and change 2 a different oil and work?

im still in testing mode. Have tried various oils and some of them make the engine run quiter at start up than others. I think its sposed to be a slightly less viscous oil at low temps which helps, but dont take my word for it.

Thanks all, I'm thinking of going Castrol R synthetic.... in appropriate viscosity.

Do my oil & filter at 5k clicks religiously!!!!

Anyone used the K&N oil filters (available Autobarn, other K&N stockists I suppose) - any comments?

Thanks all, I'm thinking of going Castrol R synthetic.... in appropriate viscosity.

Do my oil & filter at 5k clicks religiously!!!!

Anyone used the K&N oil filters (available Autobarn, other K&N stockists I suppose) - any comments?

Haven't used the K&N oil filter yet but I haven't heard anything bad about them and a fair bit of positive. I'm planning on using one at my next oil change probably another 3 months or so from now.

I use Shell (helix maybe?) for older cars. i cant remember the finer details but it's a red bottle with yellow writing, is this good?

can i change the oil for a 3L without using the jack stands?
also, if using Magnetc for my 140,000km engine, what spec do i have to go for?

it has only been about 1500km since my last oil change at mit dealer using castrol, but the oil got dirty already, dunno if it is the air filter not being clean or other reasons?

I used a K&N oil filter at my last oil change and it's due again soon. The oil still looks brand new though. I didn't change the type of oil, which is Castrol Synthetic Blend for reference. I will continue to use the K&N oil filters, even though they are a little pricey. To me it's worth it though, because I drive my car VERY hard and the oil stills looks good as new. I have previously used a Mobil 1 filter and a Fram, and both of them didn't keep the oil near as clean. :cool:

Ta Corey, it's always better to spend a little more preventatively.
I like the fact it has a nut on top to get the bloody thing off! :bowrofl:
The last ones I saw like that were "Hard Driver" filters advertised in Fast 4's / Hot 4's and they did not come in a Z79A fitment... plenty for SR20's, RB25/RB26, 1JZ, 4A-GE, 4G63 etc etc.
They look the same to me.... probably from the same factory.

TR-Envy>
Helix Red should be ok for a TR.... try using a slightly thinner oil if you can, if it bellows smoke out the exhaust, it's too thin!

Spanky>
Do you mean is it possible to get under the car sans-jack to get at the filter & sump plug, or it it a good idea?

Ta Corey, it's always better to spend a little more preventatively.
I like the fact it has a nut on top to get the bloody thing off! :bowrofl:


I agree with both statements. I would have tried the K&N even sooner but was unaware that it was availible for my 6G74 until my most recent oil change. I will continue to use only K&N oil filters from here on out. I may try some different oil if I can find the kind I want. I am not sure if you all have it in Aus, but it's called Royal Purple. A lot of people here in the US swear by it, it's rather expensive but it's for good reason. It stays much cooler than other oils and has time and time again show increases in horsepower. I have seen numerous Dyno tests where they had one brand of oil in that was still new and ran the car then changed to the Royal purple and it always showed some gain. Nothing huge, usually just a couple Whp but hey every little bit counts.

TR-Envy>
Helix Red should be ok for a TR.... try using a slightly thinner oil if you can, if it bellows smoke out the exhaust, it's too thin!


My car blows a tiny bit of smoke when you first start the car and sometimes under heavy acceleration, is this normal?(under heavy accelaration bloody stinks :P)

Older high mileage cars can exibit both of those symptoms. It could be because of worn Valve seals or worn Piston rings causing oil to enter the combustion chamber. Those are two of the most common things I hear of going bad on older cars.

I'd say your rings will need replacing in the near future. Stay with the Helix Red.

how much are the K&N oil filters?

I uses penzoi 15w 40w thats a semi syntehic oil, I have used that on my previous cars and had no problem with it.l

Use synthetic only, I'd say. Good quality, known brands.
Viscosity is more relevant than most ppl think - depends on the engine (new or worn). Low visco for new engines and high for worn out - as a rule of thumb.
I haven't yet found a K&N for my TE 3.0 - but hunting.
Been using Magnatech and changing (filter incl) ~5 G and ~4-5 months, no longer. So far no probs. But, as I have said before, we can only tell the long term effects when it's too late.... But tappets are quiet.
Will try perhaps Motul next and give my comments.
Car stands? Depends how low your car is..... I just jack it and wait til it crashes down on me... :rant: Nah, be safe when u lift/jack your car - never take wheels off before the stands are securely on place. Those hydraulic jacks do fail!

Castrol GTX3. I have had trouble using Magntec in my Magna. It caused glazing in the bores.

I figure so long as you get good pressure and no start up noise (or noisey tappets) it's good for the Magna.

Autobarn have advertised the K&N oil filters at $19.95 in most magazines lately, mostly ZOOM & High Performance Imports. All sizes, same price.

They sound like the G.O., G.G.O.

Magnatect and service every 7,500k with what ever oil filter does the job for me and car drives like a dream, light and responsive.

Synthetic are good but way over priced and specialy when you are in to servicing every 5k or 7.5k or say 2-3 times a year it can be quite expensive.

I have had trouble using Magntec in my Magna. It caused glazing in the bores.

Reckon it causes any further build ups? Like blocking the actual small channels in crank bearing etc?

No I don't think it did. The crank looked good. The engine builder reckons they where serverly glazed and the only thing that changed was Magnatec the previous oil change prior to problems starting.

Mind you I used Magnatec in my old SR20 and had no dramas.

The reson I went Magnatec is it stopped tappet noise in the SR20 so I figured I'd try it in the Magna. $1400 later.....

Is there anything out there that is 15W - 40?

I'm using HPR15 (15W - 60), I switched from Magnatec and noticed the startup tappet noises were a lot quieter, BUT it doesn't like to rev as freely now due to the higher viscosity at op.temp. So I'm looking for 15W-40 now.

next im going to try motul 15w50 to see if that quitens down the tappets at startup. so you could try that.