View Full Version : Oil for a 145k engine
spankagelion
27-12-2004, 10:53 AM
i know this topic has been coverd 1000 times, but i just want to know what spec of oil (like 10w40 or whatever) should i use for my 145,000km 3.0L V6? cureently it has the castrol oil from the mit dealer, but pretty dirty after only 2000km. the tappets also made some tiny noise when cold, so according to my engine condition, what spec should i go after? thicker ones or synthetic? thanks!
and should i use Magnetec? i used it in my neon and it was pretty good, dont know if it is compatible with the magna?
can i reach the oil plug without jacking the car up?
dark_magician
27-12-2004, 12:31 PM
magnatec are compatible with any mitsu car except diesel ones but its up to you magnatec are thick oil also and i used it in my mirage 150k on it and no issues at all
spankagelion
27-12-2004, 02:44 PM
magnatec are compatible with any mitsu car except diesel ones but its up to you magnatec are thick oil also and i used it in my mirage 150k on it and no issues at all
thanks, so is it possible for me to change the oil without jacking the car up? is there enough clearance?
Imitation
28-12-2004, 01:36 PM
You might be able to do it but it will be messy. The sump plug is reachable but difficult to undo and you'll need a very shallow container to catch the oil.. basically jack it up.
Madmagna
28-12-2004, 03:30 PM
This has been covered several times, all that know me know I use Penrite and they also use Penrite now as well.
I have had cars come to me with high oil consumption, rattles etc and these, where the problem was bad oil was fixed.
People who have also no problems use the penrite and they will no longer use the castrol and other crap out there.
This shouls give an indication, I have also in the past had tested used oil for various contaminents, how effective the oil is and how much break down there has been, again penrite and penzoil came at the top.
turbo_charade
28-12-2004, 03:34 PM
thanks, so is it possible for me to change the oil without jacking the car up? is there enough clearance?
get out and have a look :doubt:
as for oil, its been asked 1000 times, every time i tell ppl 20w50 shell super. its 15 bucks for more than enough to fill your car and its what is recomended for the engine by the hand book. why would you use anything else
Madmagna
29-12-2004, 07:12 PM
why would you use anything else, it is because cheap is that, cheap, and shell oil is like running your car on sand. That came from a shell dealer who would not use shell in his oil can
If you respect your car get good oil, pay a bit more. My engine has done over 200,000k's and in 5000k's it used about 50ml of oil when penrite is in it.
FiveFourV8
30-12-2004, 04:36 PM
This has been covered several times, all that know me know I use Penrite and they also use Penrite now as well.
I have had cars come to me with high oil consumption, rattles etc and these, where the problem was bad oil was fixed.
People who have also no problems use the penrite and they will no longer use the castrol and other crap out there.
This shouls give an indication, I have also in the past had tested used oil for various contaminents, how effective the oil is and how much break down there has been, again penrite and penzoil came at the top.
What penrite is this? Like the specs...... 20w/50? I want to start using better oils from now on
Madmagna
30-12-2004, 08:29 PM
Newer motors, HPR15 older Motors HPR30.
http://www.penrite.com.au/nextpage.php?navlink=db/product_pis.php
turbo_charade
30-12-2004, 10:39 PM
why would you use anything else, it is because cheap is that, cheap, and shell oil is like running your car on sand. That came from a shell dealer who would not use shell in his oil can
If you respect your car get good oil, pay a bit more. My engine has done over 200,000k's and in 5000k's it used about 50ml of oil when penrite is in it.
it all has to pass standards, oils are oils, specialy if they are changed every 7-8000km then u could use olive oil nearly.
Madmagna
31-12-2004, 04:48 AM
Sorry bud, having spent most of my life working on cars and also having a parent who has a PHD in chemical engineering I will have to agree to totally disagree with you. This is how I have been able to do tests on various oils. A lot of oil companies will also do an oil breakdown for you if you give them a sample.
I have pulled down engines that have had base grade oil and seen wear of 300,000+ km's in engines that are less than 100,000k's old.
If you filter a cheap oil you can easily find sediment in the bottom of the bottle, this is what goes into your engine.
WhiteDevil
31-12-2004, 10:14 AM
I'll second Madmagna, I switched from Magnatec to HPR15 and it's a lot quietr. My car has 168k and also a 3.0L
The only characteristic i dislike about HPR15 is that it is 15W-60, The 15W i don't mind, but the 60 part is just a tad too thick for a revvy engine, another words, engine doesn't like to revy as freely as before, but with it, it's a lot smoother now.
So, I wonder whether penrite has anything that is 15W-50 or something?
REV937
31-12-2004, 11:30 AM
Newer motors, HPR15 older Motors HPR30.
http://www.penrite.com.au/nextpage.php?navlink=db/product_pis.php
Common, I think ‘Penrite 30’ is ‘heavy’ thick oil, is just same like put some grease into engine to seal pistons. It will make more pressure but also damage engine faster this oil is for worn (faq-ed) engines .If U engine doesn’t smoke use Shell like ‘Charade’ suggested or any synthetic, coz nothing can beat synthetic.
Ranchu
01-01-2005, 04:03 PM
I've been using Castrol GTX3 with 7500klms oil changes for quite some time and it isn't a bad.
I have noticed lately that it tends to lose it's viscosity quite quickly; generally within 3-4000klms. When I checked my oil earlier (6500klms past last change) it was thinned out and a bit smelly.
After hearing quite a few good reports of Penrite, I've decided to give it a go. I picked up a bottle of HPR10 at Supercheap earlier for $40. This is the one Penrite themselves recommend for the 3.5L Magna. It is a fair bit more expensive than 'normal' oils like Shell or Castrol but no as bad as fully synthetics which can cost $60+
EDIT: HPR10 is a 10w50 grade, whilst HPR15 and HPR30 are 10w60 and 20w60, respectively.
Madmagna
01-01-2005, 08:27 PM
Common, I think ‘Penrite 30’ is ‘heavy’ thick oil, is just same like put some grease into engine to seal pistons. It will make more pressure but also damage engine faster this oil is for worn (faq-ed) engines .If U engine doesn’t smoke use Shell like ‘Charade’ suggested or any synthetic, coz nothing can beat synthetic.
I have only been using this oil for god knows how many years and god knows how many thousand litres I have used.
We are entitled to our opinion, at least my opinion has been backed up by testing both in the cars and in the Lab.
30 is not that heavy or thick, Penrite recommend it for older slightly worn engines such as a 200k+ engine.
If your engine smokes, fix it do not cover it up with thick oil. Mine does not smoke, I use the 30 in the summer months and the 15 in the winter months when it is a little cooler, if this is damaging my engine the recent compression and oil pressure tests certainly did not show it. For those who have seen my engine bay, the inside of the engine is just as clean.
MadMik
02-01-2005, 10:43 PM
I'm running Mobile one as a test to see how the car will like it. Car has done 160k and i used to change at 15k but now oil is done at 5k or worst 7500km. One thing i have heard from a good source working with oil company's is that most of the oils from el cheapo to midway are the same, only difference being the synthetics :doubt:
ericjace
11-01-2005, 08:59 AM
which is more expensive? Mobile 1 or Penrite HPR15?
Joukowski
11-01-2005, 12:54 PM
I'm running Mobile one as a test to see how the car will like it. Car has done 160k and i used to change at 15k but now oil is done at 5k or worst 7500km. One thing i have heard from a good source working with oil company's is that most of the oils from el cheapo to midway are the same, only difference being the synthetics :doubt:
Good choice. There are different grades of Mobile 1 however and the fully syn comes in grade 5W50 and 0W40. 5W50 goes @ $65 and 0W40 sell for $85.
full syn oil oxidises 5 times slower than mineral oil so theoretically can last 5 times longer. There's a noticeable difference in fuel efficiency using the lighter syn oils and acceleration is better. I regularly take my mx-5 past 7000rpm, so a good syn oils is essential. this little car is amazing, still returns 7.5L/100kms inspite of being driven so hard!
just noticed that my regular place dont sell Mob1 0W40 anymore, as this is what i want to pu into my recently aquired Magna.
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