Got it through Philcom Rally for around $180. Gay how it didnt come with screws, anyways here it is...
The only difference ive noticed is that, it make a hissing sound and looks cool, other than that, i dont see the point in getting one. ahwell. :cool:

On your intake pipe, between your throttle body and the MAF sensor there are 2 resonator boxes.

Now, go and buy 2 bottles of poweraide, take off the resonator boxes and put the lids in the hole(thread of lid facing out). Seeing you have a 4 cylinder it will make so much improvement to sound. It will seriously sound tough!!

u need to do a CAI to make it worth while

On your intake pipe, between your throttle body and the MAF sensor there are 2 resonator boxes.

Now, go and buy 2 bottles of poweraide, take off the resonator boxes and put the lids in the hole(thread of lid facing out). Seeing you have a 4 cylinder it will make so much improvement to sound. It will seriously sound tough!!

Yeah i was reading somewhere, that the air gets confused and gos around in circles in those boxes ur talking about. Sweet ill do that 2moz, u sure powerade tops would fit them?

Yeah Coogna im getting to that. CAI when i get the time.

On your intake pipe, between your throttle body and the MAF sensor there are 2 resonator boxes.

Now, go and buy 2 bottles of poweraide, take off the resonator boxes and put the lids in the hole(thread of lid facing out). Seeing you have a 4 cylinder it will make so much improvement to sound. It will seriously sound tough!!


or go to clark rubber and by block of plugs for 50 cents each
may be some sort of cai to may help

u need to do a CAI to make it worth while
and even then, the std box had CAI and wouldn't have been noisy :doubt:

With the CAI, could i perhaps connect the tubing to the holes where the resenator boxes sit? or does the CAI tubing need to go through the filter first?

With the CAI, could i perhaps connect the tubing to the holes where the resenator boxes sit? or does the CAI tubing need to go through the filter first?

First off, Turbo charade your wrong. On the 2nd gens the air intake is so small and in the most ridiculus place. Behind the headlight and to the side even more, i'm surprised air can even get in there :nuts: . Anyway seen as i have done what you are asking i thought i could help. With the resonators, you might find powerade lids abit too wide, milk bottle lids fit perfectly. The sound is absolutly awesome. You wont experience much gain with the filter like that, when the motor heats up its gonna be sucking in hot motor air, so it wont do much at all. What you need to do is make up a custom box for it, like a heat shield, then lead piping from the bottom of the box to a cold air intake down the bottom of the engine bay. Make sure the box is air tight though, just plastic would do, but you'll have to be creative and design it to fit well.

Also hooking up piping to where your resonators would be a VERY bad idea, 2 main reasons
1) The air going in is not passing through the filter, so basically any nasties can get into your engine like dirt, water, anything really, which is bad!
2) The air is not passing through the MAS, so the engine is getting in more air than it thinks and will stuff up your air:fuel ratio something shocking.

Aight thanks.
OK without the resenator boxes the intake isnt really supported, is there anything i can use to hold it up? stop it from moving around or is this ok?
http://users.on.net/~franklin/filter2.JPG

It seems to hold up a bit better with the filter on.
http://users.on.net/~franklin/filter1.JPG

If you make a custom enclosure you can just mount that to wear your old airbox was. the weight of the pod should hold it in place but it may still move around, cold cause any of your TB piping to come lose after awhile. Best bet would be to tie it down with something if you're not planning on making a heat shield but i think you should and it is legal (pods have to be in an enclosure, some law).

yeh u dont want your pod just bouncing around in there,
get a strip of metal and mount it onto your engine bay some where, u really dont want it loose

yes I agree that a heat shield would help. You may also want to think about relocating your battery to give you a more direct path for cold air access.

i have wanted one of these forever!!!!!!! couldnt fin a second gen pod anywhere, what kind of difference would it make to the performance of my 3.0L 6?

i have wanted one of these forever!!!!!!! couldnt fin a second gen pod anywhere, what kind of difference would it make to the performance of my 3.0L 6?
Done like his not alot, sure you're getting more air in, but that air is hot air so the gains and losses balance out again and there goes your $180 :doubt: . You need an enclosure or AT LEAST a heat shield with a pipe leading into it from a cold air source. Then you would see quite a fair bit of gain aynwhere between 5-15kw depending on the setup.

Your best bet would be to do something similar to me, mount the bottom of the airbox back to the car, make a hole on the bottom right as if you were standing in front of the engine looking in. Lead a pipe into there from a cold air source. Get some metal or plastic, cut it out to fit the pod in, but not too high as to block the bonnet, create sides, weld/stick it all together and place the pod inside with a hole above the cai in your custom top half to pop the end of your pod through.

5-15kw,
you must mean HP

Why not try this. (see pic) You may need longer screws throught the filter bracket so you can attach or modify some plate or bracket and attach it to the engine somehow. This is how the 3rd gen RPW kit works. (yeah I know, don't tell me :doubt: )

In a perfect world you should move the battery and run a cai or move the pod forward and shield it. The underhood temps are *nearly* irrelivant under full steam.

Why not try this. (see pic) You may need longer screws throught the filter bracket so you can attach or modify some plate or bracket and attach it to the engine somehow. This is how the 3rd gen RPW kit works. (yeah I know, don't tell me :doubt: )

In a perfect world you should move the battery and run a cai or move the pod forward and shield it. The underhood temps are *nearly* irrelivant under full steam.

LOL can anyone understand whats going on in that pic? looks like the filter is 2 " wide :bowrofl:

My brain hurts just looking at it. :bowrofl: :bowrofl:

:bowrofl: yeah wtf?

On the 2nd gens the air intake is so small and in the most ridiculus place.
and you have been building cars for 50 years like mitsu, thats cool then, you would know

and you have been building cars for 50 years like mitsu, thats cool then, you would know
FYI, both my dad and mechanic reckon its stupid. Have you actually seen one? I know i havn't been building cars for 50 years but i didn't just make a CAI out of thin air with no car knowledge what so ever, that would be stupid. I researched, asked questions, looked at what people have done, looked at what i could do, and i did it. Now i can feel more power and better fuel economy. How can this be if the stock intake is "perfect"?

what volume is your intake piping? what is the stock volume, including resonance chambers

show me some pictures of your setup mate

Just be happy for the guy, geez

Nice effort bro

show me some pictures of your setup mate
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=176262

is that to the std airbox?

to the std airbox is a good idea, i wouldn't bother getting a pod and boxing it then setting up CAI, its almost pointless taking a filter out and replacing it and a box, filters are filters after all and paper ones are proven to not make any difference

oils are oils

and now....


filters are filters


i tell u.....this mans a genious.......

The whole point of 'Boxing' a pod is not only legality issues....but if u cant route wiring/piping so that the pod is right at the front of the car, you put it in a box and run a Pipe from the front of the car to the box....thus directing cold air straight into the pod, and the box prevents the pod sucking hot air from the engine bay......

proven to not make any difference? got any proof to back up that statement apart from some wogboy in a maccas carpark?

i tell u.....this mans a genious.......




Lmao.... Oil is oil, a filter is a filter... Yeah...OK.

to do it is all good, but to replace the std box with another then making a 1m long (usualy very ribbed and bendy) tube for cold air isn't going to help one bit, they design the original item for torque and fuel econ

Lmao.... Oil is oil, a filter is a filter... Yeah...OK.
go put mobil 1 in your car, oil up k&n and stop posting your uneducated ****e on here m8

stop posting your uneducated ****e on here m8

take some of your own advice? :gtfo:

to do it is all good, but to replace the std box with another then making a 1m long (usualy very ribbed and bendy) tube for cold air isn't going to help one bit, they design the original item for torque and fuel econ

they also design it to a strict budget.........they do things cheap and dodgy ways...so that they can sell a car for $19990...not $100,000

if every car manufacturer released a car with perfect suspension, intake, exhaust bla bla bla bla bla.......there would be no market for Aftermarket modifications.......

and if there was lots of idiots, there would be lots of market for expencive oils in there family cars, k&n pods for there stock engines and iridium plugs for there stock ign system :bowrofl:

and if there was lots of idiots, there would be lots of market for expencive oils in there family cars, k&n pods for there stock engines and iridium plugs for there stock ign system :bowrofl:

yeh those same idiots that go put turbo's on their 3cyl city commuting cars designed to save space and reduce pollution in Japans busy citys where traffic is chaos every day of the week. But then claim the pieces of $hit to be Performance vehicles. Then hang out in magna forums claiming and boasting about how good their cars are compared to magnas....... :bowrofl:


mate you're a f*cking moron.....i dont know why you bother......just f*ck off and die already..... :gtfo:

go put mobil 1 in your car, oil up k&n and stop posting your uneducated ****e on here m8


Well I don't use Mobil one. I did recently Oil up my K&N, so you are correct there. And as for educated, well you can think how you'd like. lol

Edit- I just copied this from your website.....................

"Uni filters and K&N pod filters are a very cheap solution to those expensive paper elements as they can be washed out and reused. Pod filters also help with the intake restrictions and increase horsepower. Oh and they look cool and sound sweet."

i have since learnt.

cant you lot see where im comming from, to replace a quite adequate filter and filter box with a different home made box and a "high flow" filter is kinda pointless

For any one interested, here's a nice little write up from autospeed on factory airboxes. This'll give you a good idea of what works and what doesn't.

http://images.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://us1.webpublications.com.au/static/images/articles/i0/0073_03mg.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0073/article.html&h=514&w=782&sz=39&tbnid=VjqAnTItclkJ:&tbnh=92&tbnw=139&start=1&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dcommodore%2Bairbox%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D% 26sa%3DN


Yeah i was reading somewhere, that the air gets confused and gos around in circles in those boxes ur talking about. Sweet ill do that 2moz, u sure powerade tops would fit them?

Yeah Coogna im getting to that. CAI when i get the time.

I wouldn't be removing the resonators, they're there for a reason. A few years back one of the aussie mags did some testing of intake resonator sizes on a 1.8L lancer. IIRC there was something liek 3-5kW in it. Basically a larger resonator will give some extra power lower in the rev range, a smaller one will shift it higher. From the factory my guess is they set it up for mid range torque, which after all is where you'd want it for a daily driven car.


and you have been building cars for 50 years like mitsu, thats cool then, you would know

While I can't comment on the magna setup, there's actually plenty of factory cars with really really **** intake setups, ie Hyundai Excel. There's some pretty decent gains to be made on these such cars. I can attest to the significant gains from fitting a unifilter pod to a mates excel (hot air and all). I've also seen other cars fitted with pods and it hasn't made one bit of a difference.


to do it is all good, but to replace the std box with another then making a 1m long (usualy very ribbed and bendy) tube for cold air isn't going to help one bit, they design the original item for torque and fuel econ

If done properly it can be well worth it. They often aren't done well though.


Edit- I just copied this from your website.....................

"Uni filters and K&N pod filters are a very cheap solution to those expensive paper elements as they can be washed out and reused. Pod filters also help with the intake restrictions and increase horsepower. Oh and they look cool and sound sweet."

Sorry Jason, but you've been... :owned: :bowrofl:

cant you lot see where im comming from, to replace a quite adequate filter and filter box with a different home made box and a "high flow" filter is kinda pointless

From what was said earlier it seems the real inlet restriction is the piping before the airbox right? Well if that's the case, keep the airbox, but run a larger, more direct airfeed to it. Should work just as well as or better than a pod, will be legal and it's simple to do (space permitting).

Datto.... I haven't read the article myself but have been told about it. I think it's on a 1.5L Lancer, which has a small resonator on top of the intake pipe which is handy, but on the 1.8L the resonator is down at the front bar and very restrictive with piping etc. I reckon it would be true for the 1.5L engine to have the resonator there, but not for the 1.8L model.

Anyway we have done actual dyno tests on stock filter, K&N panel filter and K&N pod filter for the Magna. both panel and pod have power and torque increase over stock. But the Panel has a higher increase and smooth torque band than the pod with no heat shield. This figure would then be surpassed by a pod that is mounted at the front with CAI.

This completely agrees with what I have been telling people all along. If people want actual figures, it will take me some time to dig them back up again. A little busy between holidays at the moment. :P

Datto.... I haven't read the article myself but have been told about it. I think it's on a 1.5L Lancer, which has a small resonator on top of the intake pipe which is handy, but on the 1.8L the resonator is down at the front bar and very restrictive with piping etc. I reckon it would be true for the 1.5L engine to have the resonator there, but not for the 1.8L model.

Anyway we have done actual dyno tests on stock filter, K&N panel filter and K&N pod filter for the Magna. both panel and pod have power and torque increase over stock. But the Panel has a higher increase and smooth torque band than the pod with no heat shield. This figure would then be surpassed by a pod that is mounted at the front with CAI.

This completely agrees with what I have been telling people all along. If people want actual figures, it will take me some time to dig them back up again. A little busy between holidays at the moment. :P

Hi anthony. My mistake with the 1.5 vs 1.8 L. When you say "but on the 1.8L the resonator is down at the front bar and very restrictive with piping etc", I gather you mean that as in it doesn't give you much flexibility in moving/modifying the piping etc?

Good to see someone actually testing such mods on the dyno. :)
Would be very interesting to see the dyno charts for the three runs (if time permits).

cant you lot see where im comming from, to replace a quite adequate filter and filter box with a different home made box and a "high flow" filter is kinda pointless

Well if my parts were adequate from the factory I wouldn't replace them. However I want more power so I modified them. I see where you are coming from but on most cars (including mine) there is power to be gained by upgrading parts of the intake system. I personally have a very unique setup. You can go to my profile, then go to my website, then go to page 2 and have a look if you'd like.

I have also dynoed a brand new stock Mitsu filter vs a K&N Panel. I can assure you there is power to be gained. I have the dyno sheets to prove it. I also removed the resonators on the dyno. I then plugged the holes and did another run. There was 0 power lost from this mod, I am sure on some cars there is but not on mine. It didn't gain much at all on the top end but in the midrange it picked up about 5hp and 5lbs of torque.

From what was said earlier it seems the real inlet restriction is the piping before the airbox right? Well if that's the case, keep the airbox, but run a larger, more direct airfeed to it. Should work just as well as or better than a pod, will be legal and it's simple to do (space permitting).

That's exactly what i did, and it worked wonderfully. The stock box is still there, i just relocated the hole, lead bigger piping into it from a cold air source.

Anyway we have done actual dyno tests on stock filter, K&N panel filter and K&N pod filter for the Magna. both panel and pod have power and torque increase over stock. But the Panel has a higher increase and smooth torque band than the pod with no heat shield. This figure would then be surpassed by a pod that is mounted at the front with CAI.


I have also dynoed a brand new stock Mitsu filter vs a K&N Panel. I can assure you there is power to be gained. I have the dyno sheets to prove it. I also removed the resonators on the dyno. I then plugged the holes and did another run. There was 0 power lost from this mod, I am sure on some cars there is but not on mine. It didn't gain much at all on the top end but in the midrange it picked up about 5hp and 5lbs of torque.


Did you guys see (or remember seeing) lower torque down the rev range (like 1500-2500rpm specifically) when dropping a K&N Panel in with no other mods?

I, like others have a problem with the 'flat spot', I have narrowed it down to the air flowing easier through to the engine but the MAF Sensor not picking it up due to some swirl. However, by 3000rpm, the engine is sucking hard, the air is straight and there is power and torque to be had. (My experience)

Anthony, I would appreciate your input if you think an E-Manage or similar would help this problem by richening the fuel curve slightly would help reduce the severity of a the flat spot? If you need more info, look at the '1500-2500 RPM flat spot' thread in the 3rd Gen forums.....

I know what you are talking about but I have an Auto and can't dyno that low. It will downshift if I go WOT at that low an RPM. I have seen that thread before so I know what you are talking about. However I don't drive at 1500rpm ever so if it did lose any power which I don't think it did it wouldn't matter to me anyway. As for fixing it, I am sure if it is a fueling problem and you have a manual tranny you could tune it on a dyno to get it back to where you like it.

It definitely leaned out on the dyno. A bit more fuel in that zone might help it out a little and help with a quicker daily driving takeoff from lights, roundabouts etc..

I just have to launch it harder, but then you have the wheelspin to contend with!!! :badgrin:

Turbo Charade is a n00b.

I have two dyno sheets comparing filters and mods and there is like a 12% POWER GAIN from modifications. This was done on my beloved TR 4 cyl Wagon (may it rest in peace).

I'm another person with proven results to back you guys up. As if a stock paper filter can be as good as a high flow filter with intake mods. What a jerk! He is asking to be ripped on.

:gtfo: Turbo Charade

It isn't a question of more power or tourque, it has more to do with the driveability of it. Taking off, mine will sit there while a standard filtered car takes off. I start catching once I get the revs us though.

There is a possibility that a standard car may actually beat my K&N equipped over the 400m, but I'd surely have the higher terminal speed.

And that's what he's talking about.

There is a possibility that a standard car may actually beat my K&N equipped over the 400m, but I'd surely have the higher terminal speed.

2 Identical factorys cars racing in perfect stock condition. Both in perfect mechanical shape, no worn plugs, no bad o2 sensors, no old oil, Etc. The car with the K&N would win hands down if the drivers were doing the same launch. If you are losing that much power down low I would investigate furthur. I am sure it can be fixed, whether it be tuning or a tune up.

I said a possibility. Mine isn't that bad, I'd reckon i'd be about 1.5-2 lengths ahead over a 400m run, but might lose 0.5-1 length to the 60ft.

I was trying to get the point across that some people see that dead spot with the K&N as a downgrade as they don't drive above 3500rpm much.

It all comes down to how you drive. If I got some wheelspin once the revs come up in first gear, it might end up being a close thing.

Well anything is possible. I see your point though. It's just an air filter, I have never seen more discussion over such a simple little mod than on this site. I have my panel and intend to keep it. :cool:

As if a stock paper filter can be as good as a high flow filter with intake mods.

You'll actually find that the paper elements flow pretty damn well. I'd bet you'll find that the biggest gains would be through improving the flow to and from the stock airbox, not from using a flash filter.

One advantage with filters like K&N however, is that they're reusable.

Well anything is possible. I see your point though. It's just an air filter, I have never seen more discussion over such a simple little mod than on this site. I have my panel and intend to keep it. :cool:
See my signature!

See my signature!
I saw it. :cool:

L337.

MitsiMonsta..... yes you can certainly use the Greddy eManage to adjust the fueling at that RPM and tune it to perfection. However, I personally think that's a bit of an overkill (unless you have the cash).

What you may wish to try is actually the fuel pressure regulator. These are quite a good little thing to bump the fueling level up and is often used as a quick fix for flat spots.

However when you are talking about very low end power, my question to you is what exhaust are you using? Maybe that's where the problem is.

Sorry I can't read every topic everyday, maybe it's best if you email me if I don't reply within 2 days on any questions on the forum.

thanks. :)

MitsiMonsta..... yes you can certainly use the Greddy eManage to adjust the fueling at that RPM and tune it to perfection. However, I personally think that's a bit of an overkill (unless you have the cash).
Unichip? I would like something that I can tune and not have to take it to a unichip dealer everytime I wanted a change of tune... emanage is looking better in that regard.


What you may wish to try is actually the fuel pressure regulator. These are quite a good little thing to bump the fueling level up and is often used as a quick fix for flat spots.
Yes, I have thought about that. Some think it cures the problem, other report no difference. Higher pressure in the rail would equal more available fuel.... I see a RPFR going hand in hand with aftermarket management. They are about $170-$200ish right?


However when you are talking about very low end power, my question to you is what exhaust are you using? Maybe that's where the problem is.
She's stock as a rock in that department. It's the 6G72 as from the factory, save plugs and Panel filter.


Sorry I can't read every topic everyday, maybe it's best if you email me if I don't reply within 2 days on any questions on the forum.
Your reply within 2 days is the least of my worries. 2 weeks is okay by me... you just get left behind in the conversation, that's all. This is your living, you know your stuff, your opinion is valuable 2 minutes or 2 weeks after my post.