I know there has been many threads raised about Whiteline Antilift Castor Kits so save your flaming, i'm not interested in reading posts such as "use the search button etc...

What i am interested in finding out first hand is :

1) Is your ride rougher since installing the Antilift/Castor Kit?
2) Is there any negatives noticed when braking?
3) How much did you pay for the kit including installation?

I have had camber pins installed today as i have had never ending problems with steering, rubbing out tyres etc and the suspension place said the AntiLift/Castor kit would be the next step however he mentioned it may not be neccessary :nuts:

Basically i don't want to empty the pockets for something with only a minor gain.

Any feedback much appreciated...

ive got this fitted... but i had the rest of my suspension done at the same time (full whiteline the works kit). Not sure of the individual improvement but the car hardly tilts sideways or even forward/back. ride quality is rougher than standard though car feels nicer than a car thats just had springs replaced and nothing else touched.

Sorry cant give you any specific information about the anti-lift kit.

Okay I had the ant-ilift castor kit fitted, with a plain anti-sway bar at the rear, and the DBA slotted rotors and advance pads. Also a 4 wheeel alignment to whiteline's specs. Springs, shockers and ride height are all the same as factory.

1) Is your ride rougher since installing the Antilift/Castor Kit?

Rougher isn't the word - its too strong. The ride is a tad firmer, most noticeable on straight-line bumps like deep grooves that hit both front wheels at the same time. These are a bit of a jolt compared with before. (This on a front tyre pressure of 34 PSI on 15" tyres)

2) Is there any negatives noticed when braking?

Nope the brakes work just great now - though I did change disks etc also.

3) How much did you pay for the kit including installation?

I don't have a complete cost breakdown but if you know the kit's price - my bill was supply and fit KCA358X anti lift castor kit, supply and fit BMR69 sway bar, AND 4 wheel alignment for a total of $615.00. This was at MRT and as far as I recall, the alignment itself was worth $100 - so those figures may help.

What I have noticed - in addition to your questions, is that the car actually has some ability to self centre the steering now - meaning that it pulls back towards centre by itself after cornering - that certainly wasn't the case before these changes. For a large FWD car with a lump in its nose the thing handles and steers quite delightfully now. (Also have whiteline strut bar of course)

Thanks guys...A real big help! These ARE the intelligent answers i was looking for....

Ride will be harsher as the kit replaces rubber bushes with urethane bushes. NVH level is increased, but at the gain of greater road feedback (if that's what you want). The front will dive more under braking (you can't have anti-lift without pro-dive, it's balance that you are changing by fitting the kit). Hence, braking distance is slightly increased and oversteer increased if you go hot on the brakes or lift-off throttle when the car's already unsettled.

It was mentioned to me today from the suspension boys that there is considerable flex in the magna's bushes up front and the antilift/castor kit fixes this. I have a Ralliart anyway so i'm used to rough ride :cool:

But today i had camber bolts installed and a 4 wheel alignment and balance and gees has it made a difference. It feels like a new car again....

/me waits for Antilift/Castor kit to arrive....... :D

It was mentioned to me today from the suspension boys that there is considerable flex in the magna's bushes up front and the antilift/castor kit fixes this. I have a Ralliart anyway so i'm used to rough ride :cool:

But today i had camber bolts installed and a 4 wheel alignment and balance and gees has it made a difference. It feels like a new car again....

/me waits for Antilift/Castor kit to arrive....... :D

Yeah you should be happy with it. 4 wheel alignments are also definitely the go with modern cars. I doubt the 'dive' mentioned by Tek - there must be other factors involved as it certainly doesn't dive under brakes.

You will need another wheel alignment once the bushes are installed as it requires removing of the steering knuckle, and the whole control arm etc.

As for pro-dive, it is an unavoidable characteristic of anti-lift. You can't defy the laws of physics I'm afraid, except maybe redesign the whole car's chassis and suspension to make the most of it.

MMM - Some say it dives, some say it won't. I guess one way to find out. As for the wheel alignment yes, i was aware of this and a good thing it is. I don't want to scrub out my tyres at $300.00 each.

Thanks for your info...

You will need another wheel alignment once the bushes are installed as it requires removing of the steering knuckle, and the whole control arm etc.

As for pro-dive, it is an unavoidable characteristic of anti-lift. You can't defy the laws of physics I'm afraid, except maybe redesign the whole car's chassis and suspension to make the most of it.

All theories of Physics to one side for a second, my point is that since it isn't diving under brakes with the bushes fitted, other factors already on the car are probably more responsible for this characteristic, or lack of characteristic as the case may be.

I started this thread on the Whiteline Forums a few nights ago...
http://www.suspensionparts.info/showthread.php?s=&threadid=310

If the price is right I'll deffinately be looking at getting the anti-lift/caster kit and poly bushes... can't wait.

User ReallyArt on our forum has the anti-lift/caster kit fitted to his Ralliart and says it's made a huge difference to the car.

Mmm - so ultimately it is suggested to install :

Camber kit on front
Antilift / Castor Kit on front (comes with some poly bushes?)
Bigger Sway bars both front and rear (22mm)

The above is an interesting concept and one that by the looks WILL make a difference. I will suck it and see as my Antlift / Castor kit will now arrive on Friday..

I started this thread on the Whiteline Forums a few nights ago...
http://www.suspensionparts.info/showthread.php?s=&threadid=310

If the price is right I'll deffinately be looking at getting the anti-lift/caster kit and poly bushes... can't wait.

User ReallyArt on our forum has the anti-lift/caster kit fitted to his Ralliart and says it's made a huge difference to the car.

BEAR IN MIND: Whiteline make a Castor kit in two versions - one for each type of pin arrangment on the front of the Magnas - there are 18mm pins and 22 mm pins. Then they make two Anti-Lift Castor kits - again one for each type of pin arrangment on the front of the Magnas. Which pin you have - the 18mm or the 22mm, is not determined by year or VIN, but only by visual inspection of the underneath of the car.

So sort out whether you want the anti-lift castor kit or just the castor kit, and do what MRT did for me - they got whiteline to send BOTH sizes so at least one fitted the car on the day, instead of booking the car, inspecting for size, and then waiting for parts etc.

Mmm - so ultimately it is suggested to install :

Camber kit on front
Antilift / Castor Kit on front (comes with some poly bushes?)
Bigger Sway bars both front and rear (22mm)

The above is an interesting concept and one that by the looks WILL make a difference. I will suck it and see as my Antlift / Castor kit will now arrive on Friday..

Don't forget the front strut tower brace - you wont regret it! :D

"Antilift / Castor Kit on front (comes with some poly bushes?)"

Yep its the usual yellow Poly stuff.

"Camber kit on front
Antilift / Castor Kit on front"

No - either OR - see my point 2 post above

As for pro-dive, it is an unavoidable characteristic of anti-lift. You can't defy the laws of physics I'm afraid, except maybe redesign the whole car's chassis and suspension to make the most of it.
I tend also to disagree with TEK.

I had the whole lot done
-Front and rear upgraded sway bars.
-Strut tower brace
-Antilift camber kit
-castor kit
-king low front, superlow rear

the ride is firm so much so that my GF compolains that I have riuned the Magna and her boobs hurt when we take back roads.

There is no dive under braking ( well less that there was when it had 4WD springs installed from teh factory)
The cornering ability is wearing out the outside of my front tires 5 times faster than the rest of the rubber. You will push your car harder because is just begs for you to do it.
Make sure that you installer can do the job. I had to have my car realigned since the alignment was way out after only 6 months, he said that I must have hit a bump very hard. I think that something wsn't done right.
I think that you really need koni adj or better to really take advantage of this set up. The ride is just too rough under rough conditions but she never sways or floats no matter how fast you go or how hard you corner.
Only thing I don't know is how the front wheel drive will go vs Awd.

I had the antilift/castor kit and a Whiteline adjustable rear bar fitted at the same time. The strut brace was fitted later. I also had a camber pin installed about 18 months ago.

The ride is now much nicer than stock. It's slightly firmer and doesn't wallow. Under hard acceleration the front of the car doesn't lift but under brakes it's the same as stock. I expected the car to dive under braking and when I asked Chris at Inline why it didn't he though it probably had to do with the fact that the bushes are less compliant than stock neutralising the pro-dive characteristics as the new ones don't compress so much.

One of the biggest improvements was the virtual elimination of torque steer. I wasn't expecting this but it's definately a bonus. The antilift/castor kit was $214 + labor and is one of the best mods you could do.

The strut brace made minor improvements to steering sensitivity only.


.

<slight hijack>


There are two different types of front lower control arms used on this series of Magna, and they require two different types of rear bush (caster bush).
If the lowerer control arm has a nut securing the rear bush to the control arm you would require # KCA358 or # KCA358X for the bush with Anti-lift kit included.
If the lower control arm has a 22mm pin with no nut on the end of it (finishes flush with the bush) you would require # KCA372 or # KCA372X for the bush with anti-lift kit included.

This sounds easy enough to pick up visually, but I don't know where to look :redface: Can someone post some instructions, or better yet, a photo of the place in question so I can work out which category I fall in to? :D

</slight hijack>

Don't forget the front strut tower brace - you wont regret it! :D

I already have this.....

<slight hijack>

This sounds easy enough to pick up visually, but I don't know where to look :redface: Can someone post some instructions, or better yet, a photo of the place in question so I can work out which category I fall in to? :D

</slight hijack>

Put your car front first on some of those drive on ramps. You're looking for a long arm coming BACK from the bottom of the front suspension and finishing near the outside sill behind the front wheel - about level with where your feet would be if you were seated in the car.

Put your car front first on some of those drive on ramps. You're looking for a long arm coming BACK from the bottom of the front suspension and finishing near the outside sill behind the front wheel - about level with where your feet would be if you were seated in the car.

Cheers for that.

I tend also to disagree with TEK.

I had the whole lot done
-Front and rear upgraded sway bars.
-Strut tower brace
-Antilift camber kit
-castor kit
-king low front, superlow rear

the ride is firm so much so that my GF compolains that I have riuned the Magna and her boobs hurt when we take back roads.

There is no dive under braking ( well less that there was when it had 4WD springs installed from teh factory)
The cornering ability is wearing out the outside of my front tires 5 times faster than the rest of the rubber. You will push your car harder because is just begs for you to do it.
Make sure that you installer can do the job. I had to have my car realigned since the alignment was way out after only 6 months, he said that I must have hit a bump very hard. I think that something wsn't done right.
I think that you really need koni adj or better to really take advantage of this set up. The ride is just too rough under rough conditions but she never sways or floats no matter how fast you go or how hard you corner.
Only thing I don't know is how the front wheel drive will go vs Awd.

You are comparing a stock setup, to a fairly comprehensive setup of which the anti-lift kit is part of. How can you possibly isolate your experience to include only that of the anti-lift kit? I still stand by my opinion that increasing (a production car's) anti-lift will result in pro-dive.

Reallyart brought up a really good point about lower compliance with urethane and yes this would also contribute to reducing some anti-dive (Less unwanted dynamic caster).

Bearing in mind Reallyart/Whiteline's statement, when you remove variables such as change of bush material, and placebo effect, what's left is what I was trying to say. A measurement of the car's dive/lift figures wth a G sensor would be most accurate. Again, you have fitted a whole heap of other items with the kit so your assessment would be tainted.

I'd be very surprised if you noticed a ride deterioration with camber/castor adjustment/anti-lift kit. You certainly will when lowering - I'd suggest that is at the core of AllPaw's complaint (I'd also suggest that you correctly match the springs - which may or may not be the issue with his car).

I'm very glad, three/four years on, that the initial claims I made with the original project car are being supported. It really is one of the best things (in terms of low end modifications) you can do with these cars.

Hey, Welcome! How's the land of the rising sun going?

good. still plenty of diamantes about too, which is always nice to see

Cool. How's your beasts going or are you back with the Mazda? I have a mate in Adelaide who's just put an RX8 engine into his series 3 RX7. When you get a moment, find me a Mivec and send it over :P

probably be sending the 7 back early this year as the rego is due - it's mildly modified now (most of the bolt ons). Replaced the skyline with a 98 forester (around 300hp). So all is good on the car front (but keeping me poor). I must say your mate needs his head checked - the renesis is starting to look typically dodgy (good old mazda), and will be a serious step backwards from the twin turbo.

anyway, sorry for the hijack :p

oh, and I saw my first diamante 30M last month (most seem to be the 2.5) - but I'll keep my eyes peeled for you ;)

']I must say your mate needs his head checked - the renesis is starting to look typically dodgy (good old mazda), and will be a serious step backwards from the twin turbo.
Yeah? Interesting. Well, for the moment he says it idles beautifully and doesn't sound like a typical rotor.


']anyway, sorry for the hijack :p
Same, whoops :redface: If I mention castor and anti-lift kit then it's okay :D


']oh, and I saw my first diamante 30M last month (most seem to be the 2.5) - but I'll keep my eyes peeled for you ;)
Yeah? Typical. I know of two front cuts on the Gold Coast and two cars in NZ. Someone else who owned the Mivec said they thought their GDI engine was the quicker of the two. One of the NZ owners cut a flat 15 pass and that's obviously in an auto and a heavy car. Could be interesting to see how it goes with decent induction, exhaust, engine tune and a lighter manual car.

I better mention castor and anti-lift again...

I can't see any advantages in running a renesis - I'd rather have an easy (bolt-on) 350hp+ in exchange for a lumpy idle (which, I don't have anyway...). I'd hate to stomach the power cut, though I'd guess the NA response would be a touch better. Must have been expensive - he could have built a super reliable 13brew for the same dosh. Anyway, horses for courses, as long as he's happy with it.

Off hand, I can't recall the torque output and peak power/torque revs, but it the GDI may well be a more responsive car (perhaps a consequence of the mivec camming) - I doubt it's faster. I've always wondered why so few were made. I've actually got a friend who was working for mitsu here until very recently - I'll see if he can still find out for me.

To stay somewhat on topic, I'll add another 2c... after four years of use, the whiteline system has held up pretty well - everything* still looks great and work perfectly. In fact, the car was on a hoist recently and another suspension specialist said it was the best setups he had seen on a commo/falc/magna size car. I took the car for a quick spin (it's still in the family, but no longer mine) and I was pretty happy with it - came as a surprise, as I've had some pretty impressive handling cars since the magna (FD, mx5, r33). Still put a grin on my face.

* One weakpoint has been the konis - two have been rebuilt.

Effect of Anti-Lift Kit (ALK)
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/Effect%20of%20WL%20ALK_b.pdf

Suspension Secrets (Part 1) - Front Wheel Drive
http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/articles/AS_susp_01_0202.pdf

B!!!! your still alive lol

Ahh the good olf days of fastmagna :D

I'm very much alive, thank you very much.
lol