I am getting an enclosure built in my boot, what is the best material that i should use. I have two old skool pioneer subs (500w, free air use, chequer plate design). I know i want it to be black.. what is better tho carpetted wood, or fibre glass.
Thanks
Aaron

Im never built a thing like this before but i would say do it nice in moulded fibreglass .

I really like making things so im gonna make somthing in my magna's boot that i can take in and out , but ill end up using cheap audio shit because my current setup does me justice and high dollar audio isnt for me but im gonna give it ago.

i would think that ill be using light wood for the supports , then use perspex for the window and carpet the cover it and make nice patterns its a pretty simple idea i wanna try and make the thing for under $200 not including audio and neon's.

Oh yeah i was into computer modding before you could walk into your local modders store and buy shit so im pretty good with neons , and neon lights syncrod to the beat n that :P

Ok when it comes to sub enclosures I only ever recommend MDF at least 10mm think to stop flexing. As your subs are free to air im not sure what you mean by having an anclosure made. Fibreglass isn't the best material for sealed enclosure subs as it flexes badly and can get stress fractures with alot of bass. If you are going to use fibreglass make sure its thick as hell.

Let us know how you go with it.

my step bother had a professional install in his boot where the subs where moulded into the wall of the boot with fibreglass it cost like $3000. WASTE of money , anyway ill have cheap stuff that wont put out much power so i wont have to worry but anyway i would stick with MDF just remember to use a mask when cutting it

I only have a 198w sub and I'm using 18mm MDF...I wouldn't use anything less than that...18mm will be good for the power you're talking, probably a good idea to brace the middle too, just for that extra strength.

I have pics of my sub box and stuff if you want to have a look.

I used 18mm MDF for my enclosure and all sides are angled, in other words my box isn't squared off anywhere. This helps stop stagment bass which can really make your subs sound delayed and shitty.

Im really happy with my system, its super clear and the bass it sharp and crisp. Go MDF! I wouldn't recommend using anything else and try to steer clear from fibreboard.

thanks fellas,
i will give it a go. i will post pictures when it is done.. i still gotta go around to posting my profile on readers rides... but i have no pics of my car yet..

...try to steer clear from fibreboard.

I hope you meant Particleboard :P Because MDF is fibreboard! lol! It stands for Medium Density Fibreboard.

Sorry Blake...just had to pick on ya...B's not doin his job you see..lol!!!

:lol: :lol:

Particle board, thats the stuff!

Sorry when i was typing it i was like ****! mental blank... whats the shit called :D

[quote:b107179803="AussieMagna"]...try to steer clear from fibreboard.

I hope you meant Particleboard :P Because MDF is fibreboard! lol! It stands for Medium Density Fibreboard.

Sorry Blake...just had to pick on ya...B's not doin his job you see..lol!!!

:lol: :lol:[/quote:b107179803]

MDF is very tough dude , well the stuff ive used ive like made a table and it was pretty solid and it was like 1/2 inch thick

I know..I was agreeing with everyone!

MDF is actually better for enclosures as it is more dense than particle board (at least it is here in the US). It makes an enclosure more "dead"...less capable of producing it's own sound, independant of your speakers.

Alrighty then.. First off the bat; FIBREGLASS!

Fibreglass is very strong, usually 3 even layers is more than enough for a car audio system. Do more if you plan on using a lot of power, or have a large area (ie. more flex). Only when used incorrectly (badly mixed hardener) will fibreglass become brittle and break up...

Next; MDF!
MDF is very strong, cheap and easy to work with, HOWEVER, it can still have flex when used any thinner than 15mm (or again, large areas). Also, the joins for MDF must be sealed with some sort of sealent ( :? ), silicone, liquid nails, all clear, whatever. Use enough to fill and gaps you might have made, and use enough screws to keep the entire enclosure nice and tight.

Something else not mentioned much; PERSPEX!
Expensive stuff (for the thick stuff :P ), so as such not used much. It's nice and strong though, 10-20mm is enough depending on sub power. Plus it's entirely clear, big time WOW factor. But in order to screw the stuff together, you'd have to use block of MDF/timber as braces, as perspex doesn't like having things screwed into it's thin side. :lol:

And don't forget, fill the finished box with dacron/fleece/duck feathers... :? It helps to increase the boxes perceived volume. :)

PS. I'm making a custom fibreglass enclosure for the left and right sides of my boot, starting this weekend. Might put a laser etched perspex sheet on it... :twisted:

Well i have decided to finally get off my ass and get this enclosure built after my half yearly exams. I post a thread on car audio australia and they reccomended 3cu ft per sub! How big is your box blake? Do you have the specs for it.. i am a little confused on how to make the box big and fit under the parcel shelf.. i am looking at squaring it off near the wheel arches in the boot.

Whats the addy for that audio forum?

Might be some good reads... :mrgreen:

http://www.caraudioaustralia.com

There ya go mate

3 cu ft per sub?!?!

That would take up your entire boot if you had 2! No way, most sealed enclosure subs need 1.2-1.4 cu ft. Anymore and your really wasting space, stick to the manufacturer reccomendations.

Mate is very simple, just get a tape measure and build a box so it fits between the wheel arches under the parcel shelf in your boot.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/images/aussiemagnapics/a048.jpg

Hope i helps.

if 3 cu ft would take my entire boot space up... would that mean i can use my boot as the box.. i have a sheet of MDF and face my subs towards the front of the car.. that would/could work right?

god yeah that would work nicely, when you open the ski hole port you carbin would come alive and it would impress passagers, could even light it up with a neon.

And you could still use your boot.