Hi, my battery was stuffed (would not hold charge) i kept needing a jump start.... i got a new battery, now she starts fine but wont idle properly... (stalls as i pull up to the lights) when i start her again she holds 400 revs for a second and then suddenly jumps up to 900 will stay running until i take off and pull up at the next set of lights.

last time this happened my terminals were just not tight enough... but i have tighteded them as much as i can!!!! (although its an aqward thing to tighten)the battery i brought is physically the right size but its recomended for V8 Commodores... i mean that wouldnt be a problem would it? better to have to much power than not enough?

And the weird thing is it doesnt do it every single time, only about 50% ....... but until i replaced the battery it didnt do it at all....

any suggestions?

Hate to be so brief but there is a easy fix for this problem.. its got something to do with a sensor or two since you disconected the power...

I dont know how to fix it but some will post the answer soon..

Nothing major...

sounds like what would happen when your ECU reset its self but that should right its self up after 30 mins or so of driving. Didnt dislodge your MAS sensor when changing the battery or something?

Well it did seem to get better as i drove, i only have driven about 15 mins since then... and it was deffinatley doing it less as i got home...

Just give it till next year...

If pain presists, please see your mechanic...

Yeh just sounds like the ecu has reset itself and is still relearning everything. You'll find the car will drive better and better the more you drive it. I just recently reset my ecu and the exact same thing happened.

Just give it till next year...

If pain presists, please see your mechanic...
Do you have a multi meter? if you do check;
battery + and -
the big lead on the alternator from the battery and the chassis..
these two readings should be with 1V of each other. also make sure the big cable attached to the alternator is tight. rap the spanner in lecky tape before u go to tighten it up if ur a little clumbsy.

now do the same test as before but with the car on, then with the lights on. when the car is on there should be no change in voltage when u turn the lights on and off


check that the sensors are plugged in and also if you have compressed air, blow out the distributor.

have you pulled the fault codes from the ECU?

Do you have a multi meter? if you do check;
battery + and -
the big lead on the alternator from the battery and the chassis..
these two readings should be with 1V of each other. also make sure the big cable attached to the alternator is tight. rap the spanner in lecky tape before u go to tighten it up if ur a little clumbsy.

now do the same test as before but with the car on, then with the lights on. when the car is on there should be no change in voltage when u turn the lights on and off


check that the sensors are plugged in and also if you have compressed air, blow out the distributor.

have you pulled the fault codes from the ECU?

Um.... i dont know what a fault code is or what an MAS sensor is, or what a distributor is.... i do however know what a multi meter is :D ill keep driving and if it doesnt improve get my flatmate to do the multi meter thing and he might now what that other gibberish you said means too :redface:

A similar thing was happening to my TP Magna at one stage, and it turned out that one of the belts was loose, and the alternator wasn't being powered correctly.

That sound normal RyanCameron.

It isn't uncommon for that to happen when you disconnect the battery. It resets all the settings including the idle speed. As the others have said, just drive it and it will set itself eventually. The longest it has taken in mine is a few days to get back to perfect.

That sound normal RyanCameron.

It isn't uncommon for that to happen when you disconnect the battery. It resets all the settings including the idle speed. As the others have said, just drive it and it will set itself eventually. The longest it has taken in mine is a few days to get back to perfect.

Well i hope so cause i just drove it for 25 minutes and its still stalling.... i grant it is doing it much less than when i first put the new battery in i just done ever remember it taking this long before...

I hope your alternator isn't on its last legs. I have had similar sounding issues in the past (not with Magna's) but I have had enough dud alternators to know that when it goes it sure lets you know... are you having any draining on any of your electrics at the lights too.

I agree it could be the computer sorting itself out but just wanted to throw an alternative in there to consider. Hope you get it sorted.

I hope your alternator isn't on its last legs. I have had similar sounding issues in the past (not with Magna's) but I have had enough dud alternators to know that when it goes it sure lets you know... are you having any draining on any of your electrics at the lights too.

I agree it could be the computer sorting itself out but just wanted to throw an alternative in there to consider. Hope you get it sorted.

Well i appreciate it but the altinator crapped itself 6 months ago, i had it replaced then so it shouldnt, the other thing is that when the altinator goes that battery light on the dashboard comes on.... it hasnt this time, but i just drove up to Mnt Macedon and now i am home it doesnt seem to be doing it any more.. so hopfully thats the end of it.....

Good to hear!

Perhaps the regulstor is having a hissy fit?
Whoever last serviced Dads TJ (before he bought it) used the wrong belt that goes to the regulator - it died, the battery died and ... mitsi forked out for a new regulator and belt! (mmmmmanufacturers warranty).
Don't ask me where the damned thing is. I can however help you change your oxy sensor :thumbsup:

If there is a throttle stop screw ,then you might be able to adjust to stop it from stalling.

The cow kept stalling at the lights and i was starting to think something was seriously wrong. Then i heard this ticking sound, and i remembered what had caused it last time..... i pull over at a servo and check my oil.... BONE MOTHERLESS DRY!!!!!!! i put oil in within 5 minutes the car didnt make that ticking sound and she doesnt stall anymore......

i am really surprised that having no oil kept causing her to stall.
I also cant beleive how gay i am sometimes.

Ummm omg... *I feel for your car...

i pull over at a servo and check my oil.... BONE MOTHERLESS DRY!!!!!!!


:bash:

[QUOTE=RyanCameron]i pull over at a servo and check my oil.... BONE MOTHERLESS DRY!!!!!!! QUOTE]

Didnt your oil pressure light come on or something?

Holy cow! that was a close one.

Yeah, whats with the oil light not coming on?!!?

what does oil have to do with battery...? :doubt:


Hi, my battery was stuffed (would not hold charge) i kept needing a jump start.... i got a new battery, now she starts fine but wont idle properly... (stalls as i pull up to the lights) when i start her again she holds 400 revs for a second and then suddenly jumps up to 900 will stay running until i take off and pull up at the next set of lights.

last time this happened my terminals were just not tight enough... but i have tighteded them as much as i can!!!! (although its an aqward thing to tighten)the battery i brought is physically the right size but its recomended for V8 Commodores... i mean that wouldnt be a problem would it? better to have to much power than not enough?

And the weird thing is it doesnt do it every single time, only about 50% ....... but until i replaced the battery it didnt do it at all....

any suggestions?


If your car is anything like every other Mitsubishi with EFI that I've tinkered on,
your ECU needs recalibration after its lost 12V power for a while.

Recommended procedure is:
1) disconnect battery for 15 mins
2) reconnect battery
3) start car and immediately rev it to 1500-2000... and HOLD IT THERE for 30s
4) everything's back to normal then

Some cars can limp by without doing this until the next time you drive on freeway
to get conditions like in #3 but they run very roughly. Others won't even idle properly.

I agree.. what does oil have to do with a battery, but after disconnecting my battery and putting in a new one she would not run properly even after i drove up to Mount Macedon (on a freeway) which took over an hour there and an hour back still kept stalling, then friday night i noticed (i thought coincidentally) that i had no oil..... when i put oil in she has not stalled since.

i know its odd.

Oh well she is running now so who cares i guess...

The oil's purpose is to keep piston lubricate as reciprocate in the combustion chamber. The circulating oil also reject 1/3 heat from combustion. 2/3 heat dissipated by water system.

lack of oil decreases lubrication and increases internal engine resistance so engine stalls @ low revs. Engine wear is also increased. It won't be too long after this, that metal-metal contact of piston rings & engine block would cause the pistons rings to melt & weld themselves to the block ending up with a seized engine.

In theory, this welding occurs @ 723 deg.C. But the temperature sensor won't see this because it doesn't detect localised hot-spots of piston rings rubbing themselves into the engine block. The low oil pressure warning is all that notifys of this impending situation.

Hey, its a must to check oil level regularly. :)

The oil's purpose is to keep piston lubricate as reciprocate in the combustion chamber. The circulating oil also reject 1/3 heat from combustion. 2/3 heat dissipated by water system.

lack of oil decreases lubrication and increases internal engine resistance so engine stalls @ low revs. Engine wear is also increased. It won't be too long after this, that metal-metal contact of piston rings & engine block would cause the pistons rings to melt & weld themselves to the block ending up with a seized engine.

In theory, this welding occurs @ 723 deg.C. But the temperature sensor won't see this because it doesn't detect localised hot-spots of piston rings rubbing themselves into the engine block. The low oil pressure warning is all that notifys of this impending situation.

Hey, its a must to check oil level regularly. :)

But if a car is running properly with no leaks it shouldnt burn through oil should it?

Yes. Only time I know off oil being lost is if the engine is worn, the piston rings may let oil into the combustion chamber alowing oil to be burnt, I think the car then gives off black smoke in severe cases - because of increased hydrocarbon content, but this may not be detectable. Most cases are caused by sump plug not done up tight enough allowing oil to drip out. Glad you've managed to get to the bottom of the prob.

Edit: Just been over @ the smokers forum, general concensus is that if it's oil burning off, it would give off blue smoke. :)

But if a car is running properly with no leaks it shouldnt burn through oil should it?
Why not ask a Holden GenIII V8 owner who's paid $60k for his Monaro/Statesman/SS ??
:D :D :D :D :D

If your car is anything like every other Mitsubishi with EFI that I've tinkered on,
your ECU needs recalibration after its lost 12V power for a while.

Recommended procedure is:
1) disconnect battery for 15 mins
2) reconnect battery
3) start car and immediately rev it to 1500-2000... and HOLD IT THERE for 30s
4) everything's back to normal then

Some cars can limp by without doing this until the next time you drive on freeway
to get conditions like in #3 but they run very roughly. Others won't even idle properly.

Hi all, I'm new to this forum, and I just wanted to post my experiences with changing the battery in a 2001 Magna Sports. Initially I changed the battery, and had the same problems as were described by others on this forum: stalling, rough idle etc. I did a search on the net, and found this site. I followed the steps abaove, and for a little while, the car was fine, but the it all went pair-shaped again. It would drive OK on my way to work (35km trip, 75% of that on a freeway) but then it would go crazy on my way home. It was even stalling while I was in motion. I would slow down for a tight corner, and then suddenly find myself wrestling with the no-longer-power-assisted steering wheel! A couple of nightmare journeys.

So, anyhow I went through the above process for a second time, but after the 30 seconds of holding the revs, I then let the car sit in idle for about 15 minutes. Now she's back to normal, and purring beautifully. I honestly can't say for certain if the idling was what made the difference, but I just thought I would share my experience.

Thanks,
Brayne

The cow kept stalling at the lights and i was starting to think something was seriously wrong. Then i heard this ticking sound, and i remembered what had caused it last time..... i pull over at a servo and check my oil.... BONE MOTHERLESS DRY!!!!!!! i put oil in within 5 minutes the car didnt make that ticking sound and she doesnt stall anymore......

i am really surprised that having no oil kept causing her to stall.
I also cant beleive how gay i am sometimes.


:bowrofl: :bowrofl: :bowrofl:

haha that cracked me up. Cars act really strange when there is no oil or water in them. I guess it was trying to say "FOR THE LOVE OF GOD I NEED OIL!! ARGHHH!!"

You should get that light fixed asap!

My mates VX had really stiff power steering lately, and was also starting to stall whenever it felt like it.

I checked the power steering fluid for him, it was fine... but not a drop of oil was in the poor lil ecotec. Funny thing is, because of the way the ecotec is set up, no oil in your engine means no oil running through the power steering fluid pump. Well without knowing any better, I think thats the cause! Cause once I topped up his oil, it stopped stalling, and the power steering returned to normal.

Actually his car is fcuking awesome, ave a look:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2114473/1