can taking off your front discs and putting them back on alter my alignment?

No... :P

can it cause a shudder while driving?

or

could the shuddering be result of alignment?

if u've taken the discs off...make sure when u put them back on that they are sitting PERFECTLY FLUSH. then when u put your wheel on....make sure u tighten all the wheelnuts a bit tighter than normal and make sure u do so in a star pattern.

If they werent shuddering before and they are now, they MAY be sitting slightly out of place...
what did u take them off for that might provide an answer.

also...does it shudder under braking? or constantly?

took them off to spray the outer rim(not the actual disc) red to match callipers.
Also replaced brake pads.
shudders mainly when braking!

Sounds like warped rotors...

its sounds like they are not on properly. did you put every thing back in the same spot eg brake pads etc.

i didnt know i had to mark the disc were i took it off so i could put it back the same spot
could this cause a shudder...?
if so is there any way i can find out how to put them on the way they were?

I wouldnt drive it, i would check ur disks..

If it wasnt doing it before you touched it there is something not right. sounds like the disk may not be sitting straight..

Check it out. there has to be a explanation for it...

i didnt know i had to mark the disc were i took it off so i could put it back the same spot
could this cause a shudder...?
if so is there any way i can find out how to put them on the way they were?
as long as you put the disc back on the same sid it came from it should be okay but the pads did you put them back in the same spot or did you mix it up ??

Are the discs on the front the same as the rear... Check that too...

only the front discs were taken off but i cant garantee that they are back on the sides i took em off of..... :nuts:
the pads were new so didnt have to worry about putting them back where they came from.
the shudder was worse a week ago than they are now. seems the more i drive it the more the shudder slowly goes away or i notice it less.

only the front discs were taken off but i cant garantee that they are back on the sides i took em off of..... :nuts:
the pads were new so didnt have to worry about putting them back where they came from.
the shudder was worse a week ago than they are now. seems the more i drive it the more the shudder slowly goes away or i notice it less.

Ahh.. I wouldnt be driving it. pull the wheels and discs off check it out and put them back on.. you will find that will fix it.... its something really small, prob cant even see it...

i didnt know i had to mark the disc were i took it off so i could put it back the same spot
could this cause a shudder...?
if so is there any way i can find out how to put them on the way they were?

Yes you use a dial gauge mounted to the suspension strut, then you match the highest point on the hub to the lowest point on the disc.

i dont mean to sound rude but can u explain it again in laymens terms...i always thought the hub was the centre part of the disc.

im with stupid... You have lost me.. doesnt matter what way the disc goes on as long as it flat..

When you put your discs back on (without putting the wheel back on), give the brakes a good few pumps (4 or 5). The pads should straighten out the disc when pressure is applied.

I saw your earlier post of the discs when you did them.

Did you get ANY paint of the pad surface of the disc?

that will always cause shudder.

A dial gauge is basically a very fine measuring tool that can measure deviations of down to micrometers; you attach it to a fixed location (damper body for example) then press it against the surface you are measuring (in this case the wheel hub). Rotate the hub and take the readings at every 45degrees and mark the lowest spot. Do the same for the brake disc measuring the hub mounting service (need a work bench) and rotate until you find the highest spot. Match the highest spot with the lowest spot when mounting the disc to minimise lateral runout.

Firestorm the method you described will not "flatten the disc" it will merely reset the position of the pistons.

The Ego, your advice is correct in most instances but not when trying to rectify brake shudder issues.

I took the car down to the local shop and the guy confirmed that the shudder was caused by my discs being warped. He said that i have only just noticed the shudder because i replaced the brake pads and the old pads had worn down to the shape of the disc. Here i was thinking that i had caused a problem when i had just unmasked one.

So i was the told it was gonna cost $240 to get new discs fitted!
What does every one think about this price?
Repco told me $150 for just the discs for a home job.....is this wise to do?

If i do do a home job can i simply put the new discs on or do i have to put them on a specific way like you have to do when putting back on your old discs?

I've never ever been taught to put rotors in a specific way??? :nuts:

You should just be able to put the rotors on. Just make sure that the rotor sits flat so warping isn't possible. And as _x_FiReStOrM_x_ said previously, once you've got it all in, drive around the block and pump the brakes a couple of times to wear the pads in.

Oh and you may need to clean the new rotor with pertrol or turps or whatever since new rotors are normally all greased up, dont want that grease sticking on the pads do we??!

^^ To be ignorant about something doesn't mean that it doesn't exist or isn't correct :nuts:

You say "Just make sure that the rotor sits flat," which is the process that I describe if you want to do it properly.

You will also need to torque the wheel nuts correctly and evenly to prevent a reoccurence, either through using a torque wrench or air gun in conjunction with a torque limiter bar. Finally bed your new pads/discs in, in accordance with manufacturer's procedure.

^^ To be ignorant about something doesn't mean that it doesn't exist or isn't correct :nuts:

You say "Just make sure that the rotor sits flat," which is the process that I describe if you want to do it properly.

You will also need to torque the wheel nuts correctly and evenly to prevent a reoccurence, either through using a torque wrench or air gun in conjunction with a torque limiter bar. Finally bed your new pads/discs in, in accordance with manufacturer's procedure.


I wasn't saying I was ignorant.

Your procedure is probably 100% correct in theory, but it's over the top. Okay I guess it's a good idea for some newbie to do up the nuts on their wheels with a torque wrench, but most people do have a vague idea on how much to torque the nuts by hands.

But more specifically is the use of dial gauge to accurately sit the rotor in the right position, I would think this is way over the top. I've put in brand new rotors without the use of this method and the discs have yet to be warped by my rudimentary procedure.

undo it all, take off everything, reinstall with grease on every bolt and nut and tighten to specified torque settings, over or under torqued brakes can SOMETIMES cause them to shudder, but i have never seen it.

clean the disk's with turps and wipe it clean
sound like you have grease on them
i did it once light breaking you got a shudder
but when u put more presure then the shudder will lessen

There's some scary stuff being put forward here.

sorry to those who take offence but;

TEK--s method is the only that's 100% correct. This will give you the minimum run out.

If your going to clean anything to do with brake friction surfaces or the hydraulic system don't use turps, kero , petrol or anything else like it. Use methylated spirits or dedicated brake cleaning agent

If your going to clean anything to do with brake friction surfaces or the hydraulic system don't use turps, kero , petrol or anything else like it. Use methylated spirits or dedicated brake cleaning agent

There is nothing wrong with petrol, as long as it has dried up. My dad taught me this, he is an engineer and he has done it the past 40 even years, and as I said before, nothing has ever bellied up. I admit I don't know the technicalities in using different types of "cleaning" substances, but petrol has been proven to work.

Not everybody can afford to buy precision instruments, hell a torque wrench is $250, and then just to use that to do up a tyre? You're gotta be joking me.

Anyway this has gone off-topic, i'm outta here. I did not say that Tek's procedure is incorrect, I just think its just a little bit too much, but hey, I'm not the expert here, i'm just a hobbyist mechanic with a hands on point of view.