please tell me what you all think of this design... one of my only main concerns in the strength of the perspex as to mounting the rear 12's to it.

haha reminds me of kindy!

It may work if the rear compartments are ported - and if you buy 20mm perspex it will be more than strong enough - though I dont think your desgin would work too well!!

You are trying to keep boot space arent y??

It aint gonna happen with 4 subs!!!

Manual

Can you get phase cancellation from a setup like that?

Can you get phase cancellation from a setup like that?

If he has holes cut into the middle partition then yes he would - though if the middle partition is solid and he has the back half of the box ported - then with 20mm Perspex I can't see it having a problem.

Manual

ok well this is what im talking about, everyone has opinions, but no1 is willing to suggest any other options. All ive been looking for for the last few days is a magna/commodork/falcoon with a 4x 12" install. once i see a few ill make my own modifications and then get some more feedback.


PLEASE GIMMIE SOME LINKS/PICS TO/FOR 4x 12" BOOT INSTALLS!

Should look at synergys boot - i am sure it is his - he has two 12's mounted facing each other near the brake lights - one either side of the boot and i reckon if you put tewo facing the rear of the car in between the rear strut towers then you could fit four easily and it would look cool - falsse floor mount your amps and all is good!!

Thats what I would do if i wanted 4 12's!!!

Manual

4x12 install is very easy to do...

just do them as an isobarric setup....

cone side !>] magnet side

[<!!>]
and u just reverse the polarity of one of the subs so that they are working together you cut the box voluem require by half or u can even have it

________
!>]!>] |

yeah, i'm about to do a 4x12" subs set up... all i'm planning on is 2 behind the back seat, and then one either side of the boot, all subs facing inwards!! (then ported into the cabin! :D this should pull a fair few DB's! the only problem you might have is box size. the Pioneer TSW1201C's that i'm using (anyone who went to AutoSalon and seen the pioneer truck, they're mine!) only need a 28L box, so i'll still have a fair whack of room... but yes, if anyone has done this before, i'd still like a look at other people's pics

After 150db, im suprised your ears would be able to hear anything at all :lol:

the only issue i have with false floor mounted amps is access to the spare! that something im definatly not getting rid of! if iw as to make the false floor compartment so that it it was the flap to the spare tyre.. am i going to have any problems? it will mean i have to run all the wires out the back of the compartment, through some kind of loom. anyway i think thats the way im going to do it... i will load the 2 subs under the shelf into the back seats on a 45 degree angle so they both face the ski hole, nice perspex window in the back of their box and somehome port it directly to the parcel shelf (anyone got some ideas on that?)


ill have more of a look when i get the car back fro mthe shop this arvo =P

Zach

edit: what about something like this?

If you looking for an idea of the false floor with access to the spare tire still you can have a quick look at what I've got in my boot...

http://members.iinet.net.au/~allenc/Stereo/boot_install.html

If you set up your subs like ENCN then you can put your other 2 subs where he has his amps - and have the amps mounted on the floor on a hinge base so the spare is still accesable!!

Manual

mate are you talking about have a sub inside another sub bow? like facing the other sub? if so, i wouldnt reccomend it. At high levels the back sub is likely to f**k up the balance and movement of the sub infront of it. You will get a bad distortion, and unbalanced bass control. Is thsi wat you are doing? or am i completely off track?

Trav

mate are you talking about have a sub inside another sub bow? like facing the other sub? if so, i wouldnt reccomend it. At high levels the back sub is likely to f**k up the balance and movement of the sub infront of it. You will get a bad distortion, and unbalanced bass control. Is thsi wat you are doing? or am i completely off track?

Trav

its an isobaric setup... but im not going to do that anymore, im going to buy another 2 vnets and another monoblock and setup 6 12"s in the boot =P

Z

yep 1 sub behind the other in the same box so only 1 is visible....
if set up proprly it will work fine no problems...
and reduces the space required by half
y not just sell them... and put 2 15"s in..... u will need less power to run them then u wuld 6 12"s and would definitely be louder....
ie giving 6 12's 250wrms each is no where as good as giving 2 15's like 700wrms each
just buy dvc subs so u have different options to wire. handle more power.... hit alot lower.... louder too

6x 12" = 72" cone with 400w to each sub.

or

2 x 15" = 30" cone with 400w to each sub.

The Verdict!

6x 12" Install will make more bass. and anyway, i dont listen to anything other than hard/deep house music, and 15's just don't cut it, too slow. i was going to use to fusion powerplant 15"s originally, bu then i heard them in another magna and it just sounded like shit. the 6x 12" install is the way ill be going (cept im only putting in 4 to begin with!)

thats not right.....
cone diameter maybe but nt surface area....
1 15" sub is equivelent to 2 12" subs in surface area....
how are you getting 400w to 6 subs and only 400w to 2 15"s?
you do realise that its not 400w to each of the 6 subs it's 400w distributed between each of the 6 subs

66 and 2/3w per sub
as opposed to 200w to each 15.
of if you really are giving 400w to each of the 6 12"s
2 15"s with 1200w each will definitely be louder

given a properly designed box with that amount of power the 15's would be able to keep up with the 12"s with only 400w into them
and they would sound nicer as they hit lower frequiencies.....

yes but i havnt heard any 15's that perform to my liking as of yet.. well not any that are remotley in my price range. as it is, ive blown out my budget by a few hundred dollars and i havnt bought the cabling yet, $300 for 3 rca's and 32per meter for 0 gauge power cabling is going to throw me out even more.

(If anyone knows where i can get the cabling cheaper... please let me know, $100 each for the rca's is overkill, but it will be worth it in the long run =P)

as for cone sizes etc, im only going by what the local tonkins guy has told me along with the local autobarn bloke, so please dont bite me for going by what both the reputable local installers have said.

$100 for rca's..... what speakers are you running? if you are not running high quality speakers ie like $1000 splits
$40rcas would do the job well and you wont even notice the difference...
what amps are you running to require 0guage cabling?
from memory you dont need 0guage until you pushing like 3000w rms or something like that.....

2 8 inch subs= 1 10 inch
2 10inch subs = 1 12 inch
2 12inch subs = 1 15 inch

in surface area.

what amps are you running.... what is your budget and what subs you running?/ want?

i got 4 12" clarion vnets to go in the car, with another 2 to go in shortly after, i will eventually be running 2x 1200w monoblock's plus a 660w 4 channel for the cabin speakers.. so thats 3000w =P

the monoblocks that im currently looking at are these:

http://home.iprimus.com.au/terryallen/web%20page/Caliber.htm