Hi All,

I would like to replace the two front door speakers in my TF. I currently have the factory ones which are not real great.

Do you have to remove the door trim? - if so, are their any tips in removing it?

Also, has anyone had success in putting small (4" ?) speakers in the dash? (like the verada's have?)

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance.

hi
if they are anything like my TE yes you have to remove the door trims also as a note you will need some speaker spaces or some very shallow speakers as the original ones are very shallow and need to be or they will hit on the window i hope this helps
anyway i am new so please be kind
good luck
barney
the door trim is mostly clips but there is a few screws dont forget the one in the ac vent for the door i nearly did

Hey guys, welcome to the forums...

To remove 3rd Gen Front door trims:

1. Undo the 3 holding screws :
-Behind (opened) interior door handle.
-In the door aircon vent (while door open)
-Inside the armrest handle. A square plastic cover clips off to reveal it.

2. Window winders (Non-pwr models):
-Using a flat-blade screw driver, preferably covered in cloth, pry off the C-Clip which is under the rubber boot at the base of the winder handle.
-Alternatively get a thin cloth, fold it in half to form a sharp edge, then pull it under the rubber boot, useing a see-saw action until it jags onto the end of the C-Clip & flicks it off.

3. Clips Around Outside of Door:
-Use a cloth covered screw driver (to prevent damaging the vinyl & paint) or even a plastic spatula/eggflip to place between the door trim & the metal body of the door. Gently prize all the clips free.
-Once all clips are free, lift the door trim so the lipped section clears the top of the door & remove.
-For models with power windows & courtesy lights, unclip harnesses before attempting to take away completely.

4. Refitting:
-Follow previous steps in reverse, making sure any harnesses are replaced & the trim is aligned properly before attempting to press the clips home.

____
Yes it's always preferable to install onto MDF spacers, although I had to router mine as my cone was protruding into the door trim at full excursion.

You can fit 6 or 6.5 inch speakers in, for 6.5 you screw into the indents provided. This will make sense when the doors are off.

Solder your wires to your speaker terminals if possible.

Consider applying sound deadener to your doors to increase midbass response and reduce rattles/resonance.

Hope it helps

Peace

Tim

Be careful when pulling of the C-Clip they're a bastard and they'll fly off and you'll never find em again :D

good luck

Too true! lol

I have a huge magnet on a stick for finding these things...

Tim, have you got any pics of the MDF spacers you used? I am currently using that cruddy plastic mounting plate, and I think its effecting my mid-bass characteristics greatly.
Ive got a SD kit here to go on, but didnt wanna waste it with that crappy plastic plate.

How did you work around the big gap where the top of the speaker sits
(when the plastic plate is rmved)?

Luke

Not sure exactly which hole above the speaker u mean? explain?

Here's a pic of my baffle after I routered it with my old speaker in place. I routered it flush with the speaker. and painted it so the weather wouldnt get to it. (Thats why it's hard to see against the speaker)

There's also a pic of Mulga's doors. This is what you want to do if possible. Will give the best results.

With my baffle, I had to cut away the plastic around the speaker mount otherwise the baffle wouldnt sit flush.I just used a bench drill with a big bit to hack away at it.

Peace

Tim

Tim cheers dude, saved me again. Hopefully Mulga doesnt mind, but i'm copying his design, its exactly what I was trying to work out how to do.

Also can you tell me what solder I should use to solder the spkr wire joins and the terminals?

Luke

Cool. (Thanks Mulga!)

If you do it this way you can line it up right so that ur speaker fires through the stock hole perfectly, instead of being off to one side... Means you can use your speakers grilles, or no grilles at all.

If it's not too much hassle, try and get as much angle as possible from the baffle too. The more on axis the speaker is, the better it will sound.

As for solder, 60/40 silver/copper if you can find it. In reality it wont make too much difference as long as you twist the wires together first when joinging wires. Or make good contact directly with the terminal to the wire. Then the solder just increases the surface area in contact.

Any idea on thickness of the MDF used? looks about 12mm.

Cant tell, but 12mm will be fine for baffles.

why is the spacer so big and spreads right up door????

why is the spacer so big and spreads right up door????
I take it ur talking about Mulgas one... To replace the stock speaker spacer which is made from flimsy plastic. It gives it a much more solid mount which results in better performance from ur speaker