Hey,

The battery warning light is on permanently in my magna (TR, 2.6 Auto) and I have to charge the battery every night otherwise the car will kick over and idle forever, but as soon as I go to drive it, the engine will cut out. Or if the car does move the revs will jump and the car will stall randomly.

If the battery is charged overnight it will run fine, but I have turned off the interior lights/stereo just incase.

All this has been happening since about 2 weeks ago I was driving home from work when the Check Engine light came on for about 20Km's.

I dont know alot about cars (I work with computers, not cars) but I have been told its the alternator, so I have rung around and located a replacement which I will be picking up tomorrow morning. Is this likely to fix this problem???

Also, how hard is it to do so? Because I have some mates saying they will do it for me, usually I dont let anyone but a mechanic touch my car, but I cannot afford to pay to have it done.

Any other ideas? Or have we correctly diagnosed the problem?

NRMA road service had a look at it the other day when it wouldnt start, he check the wiring and stuff under the bonnet, tested the battery (OK) and said its most likely the alternator.

Any feedback much appreciated, I respect your opinions because I know you will not all start bashing Mitsubishi like my mates do.

Yeah definitly sounds like the alternator. A proper auto electrician will verify that for you though

same thing happened to my tn when i 1st got the car and it turned out to be the alternator, i got a 2nd hand one from the wreckers for like $35 and bought a brand new regulator for it and never had a problem since

mines not as bad as this(the light flickers on and off every so often). i have been told that it is the voltage regulator(the black thing on the side of the altenator with a wire sitcking out). i'm yet to find out if this is the exact problem because i've also been told that one of these cost around $80!!! money i don't have to burn at the moment....

It is most likely the regulator and is very rarely broken cabling.

However it could also just be the voltage regulator and/or worn brushes which would be cheaper to replace rather then a whole alternator. However if I was wrong, then you'll end up paying for a new regulator plus a new alternator. From memory a new alternator costs $160, an alternator from the wreckers is probably half that, but the condition is unknown.


As for you Shanigans, if its an intermittent problem, I suggest you find out whether your brushes are worn, brushes are only $40 to replace, maybe less, I can't remember its been a long time ago since I did mine.

thats what my mechanic said it was(the brushes). i was under the thought that you had to replace the entire voltage regulator. i didn't know that you could buy the brushes seperatly

dsfgdfgfdg edited 10/08/2007