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eppo
09-02-2005, 02:35 PM
G'day all - First post here, so I'm unsure if its been asked. A quick search showed it hadn't but you never know....


Anyway, recently bought a 96 TE Magna as a first car, and its been running pretty sweet up untill recently. Over heated one morning on the way to work. Seemed to be okay on the way home, with the temp sitting fine at half way as usual. It then did it a couple of days later, and then on the day I had a Sydney trip planned :doubt:

I've since replaced the thermostat, and have done a trip to Sydney and back with no issues at all. Figured that was the end of it! However this afternoon on the way home from work again, the temp started to move just above where it normally sits. Did this on and off all the way home. Pulled into the driveway and it climbed up to 2 gradations short of red. Its not hitting the red like before, but its obviously still running hotter than it should.

Anyone I've rung seems to be unable to diagnose the issue (or just un-interested) so I was hoping some knowledgable user here might have an idea?

Cheers

Matt
09-02-2005, 02:54 PM
u've probly got an airlock in your cooling system.......the 3rd gen cooling systems need to be bled i think.....

AussieMagna
09-02-2005, 03:11 PM
The easiest way to get rid of an airlock from memory (correct me with this but worked with my motorbike) is to remove the radiator cap, start the motor let it warm for a sec and rev it a little. You should be able to see the wate rise and fall in the radiator. Repeat this a few times and see if this solves the problem. Some water might spill out as it warms but but dont be alarmed.

Hope this helps, otherwise check the condition of your water pump, are you loosing any coolant or having to top it up regularly? are your thermofans working? check the colour of the oil, is it milky at all?

Blake.

Gemini
09-02-2005, 03:56 PM
Just a nooby sugestion, but i would also check if your radiator fan is kicking in when its supposed to or it could be a bad connection to it.

eppo
09-02-2005, 04:08 PM
Thanks for the replies so far.

Just started it up a second ago again, and the thermostat constantly rises and falls now...altho, each time falling less and less :confused:

Not losing any coolant, thermofans are kicking in fine and the oil colour is fine.

With the air lock....dad did something very similar to what you are describing there, Blake and that's when it worked fine for a few days again (should have mentioned that earlier, had a brain fart there).

Samurai: When you say they need to be bled, is that the process described by blake, or something different?

Might give that a go again and see how it goes. Either way, I've booked it into Natrad for sat. morning. Would prefer to not have to fork out there...but what can you do. Gonna have to bus it like a shmuck in the mean time :redface:

Wayne.

Mag net
09-02-2005, 04:19 PM
If none of that works you might have cavertation in your water pump, if so time for a new one.

BlackVRX
09-02-2005, 06:26 PM
I actually had a similar problem in my KR. After much headache, time and money it turned out to be my water pump. For your sake I hope it's not. They're expensive b@stards.

eppo
13-02-2005, 07:39 PM
Well it seemed the heat issues were due to a lack of water...

Never would have thought a few days after filling it up, it'd be lacking water...but I guess that happens when you have a big ass leak. There's water pouring out somewhere from the heat transfer pipe that runs along the block. Never noticed any water, because its all just sitting on the block, and evaporating from the heat before it drips anywhere. Removed the pipe today and its fine, not a hole or crack anywhere (even looks fairly new), so it seems that one of the O ring seals is busted. It seems like its gonna be a pain to find the right size one too...

Just thought I'd give an update! Thanks for all the replies too.

eppo
16-02-2005, 11:12 AM
Well it seems that was an incorrect diagnosis. It was indeed the water pump. Seems that mag net and blackVRX win the prize.

What would I be looking at for one of these + labour? :cry: I'll hopfeully be able to get some form of mates rates, as it is going to a place owned by a mate of dads...

BlackVRX
16-02-2005, 01:46 PM
I had mine done at Mitsu and it cost around $800 fitted. :sook: :sook:

Hopefully mates rates can get that down significantly. Good Luck.

Magnette
16-02-2005, 01:55 PM
It was indeed the water pump.
...

What would I be looking at for one of these + labour? :cry: I'll hopfeully be able to get some form of mates rates, as it is going to a place owned by a mate of dads...
If its getting near a 100,000 or 200,000 anniversary, might be an idea to change the timing belt at the same time too.

eppo
17-02-2005, 08:03 AM
score...getting it for $400 installed, with a new timing belt :shock: :)

BlackVRX
17-02-2005, 10:31 AM
Bargain! :thumbsup:

Phonic
17-02-2005, 10:36 AM
score...getting it for $400 installed, with a new timing belt :shock: :)

Wow, exellent dude, thats an awsome price :shock:

UNDER8D
17-02-2005, 11:36 PM
I had the same issue with my TE.

I had the thermostat replaced and the wankers didnt even do it properly :rant:
My waterpump was ****ed. No issues with overheating since waterpump was replaced.
Should really put coolant in sometime soon though :doubt:

Magnette
18-02-2005, 06:52 AM
Plain water actually holds heat (energy) better than green coolant; some ppl use "water wetter" additive to improve heat transfer properties.

Only need green coolant if you're going to very hot (>100) or very cold places (<0), and its anti-corrosion properties. :P

turbo_charade
18-02-2005, 11:27 AM
I had the same issue with my TE.

I had the thermostat replaced and the wankers didnt even do it properly :rant:
My waterpump was ****ed. No issues with overheating since waterpump was replaced.
Should really put coolant in sometime soon though :doubt:

Thats a pretty good price mate! it might also be worth you having your radiator flushed by a radiator shop... i know its an extra 100 dollars but its piece of mind.

turbo_charade
18-02-2005, 11:31 AM
Plain water actually holds heat (energy) better than green coolant; some ppl use "water wetter" additive to improve heat transfer properties.

Only need green coolant if you're going to very hot (>100) or very cold places (<0), and its anti-corrosion properties. :P
i put corrosion inhibitor in, if the cooling system is getting higher than it should then nothing can save it. its on the verge of boiling as it is. water under pressure will boil at a lower temp and the systems are designed to sit at around about 90deg...

my coolant boils all the time :shock: i get my oil boiling every second or third drive too :shock: all be it in my turbo :cool:

UNDER8D
19-02-2005, 06:00 PM
Thats a pretty good price mate! it might also be worth you having your radiator flushed by a radiator shop... i know its an extra 100 dollars but its piece of mind.

Where did i mention a price?

But one day i will invest in having my radiator flushed.