Gday all in Aussiemagnaland :cool:

Over the past few weeks ive been working on my TP wagon (astron 2 carburetted, manual transmission) trying to sort out many small problems regarding the carbie and vacuum system. After replacing the secondary's diaphram, replacing all vacuum hoses and checking the engines timing plus tuning the carbie to suit, im still finding that under load or WOT that the engine bogs down at about 3000rpm (ive had it hesitate at as little as 2000rpm when i have been cruising in 5th). After working on all possible fixes, i am pretty much stumped to what this problem may be other that i may need to re-jet or rebuild the carburettor. Has anyone else experienced similar problems or have any thoughts regarding to what this problem may be?

thanks in advance

-Wagon*

i have the same problem, i sent the carbi to be rebuilt. i wouldn't suggest this for a magna carbi because they are pretty poor units and VERY expencive and difficult to rebuild. go to the local wreckers and pick up a XF carbi, i found today that if u also go to a performance shop which specialises in carbi adapter plates yuo can pick up a gemini adapter plate and drill out two of the holes and the carbi will bolt straight on!


a much cheaper but fiddly sollution to the problem. and you might want to change the secondary main jet from 220 to around 160, aswell as the idle jet but its not nessisary.

Make sure your spark plug leads are good, ditto coil. Sometimes they will only show fault when under heavy load at a certain rpm.

You only need 1-2 cylinders to go missing to feel like the engine's died on you.

Cheers for the info turbo_charade. I havent really considered the XF carbie option as of yet, do you have any photos or info regarding this mod? hows the fuel consumption with the XF carbie?

Magnette, i have replaced all sparkplugs and leads 2 weeks ago, so i doubt that they would be the cause of the problem. is it possible that the coil will pack it in after 118000'ks?

cheers for the help so far

-wagon*

u want pictures of my car with the XF weber on it? here goes...

not the best quality, they were taken with my phone.

fuel consumption: well, it depends how much lead is in ur right shoe :) for awhile there it's hard not to put the foot down cause, just with the carb, there is a big performance increase. i have a cam aswell (which dosen't help fuel economy at ALL). on a full tank driving half granny style, i get around 350-400km. not much, but i cant help but put my foot down. if driven lightly the whole time i would expect around 400-450km or so per tank. i have changed the secondary jet in the carby wen TC rebuilt it though to a much smaller jet, so i will use less fuel wen smashing it aswell. my fuel economy may get better.

note: looking at those pics again, damn i gotta get my engine bay cleaned up and all 1 colour lol

venting your crankcase vent to the air? that legal like that if so im so there, man that set up is crying for extractors looks sweet tho

pete

Damn TM-SE-RED, that is one clean setup you have got yourself there :cool: . That carbie looks much better without the spaggetti-loads of vaccum hose going everywhere. Is that the stock intake manifold you are using there? if so did you have to seal any of vaccum valves at all?

-Wagon*

Damn TM-SE-RED, that is one clean setup you have got yourself there :cool: .

why thankyou
:cool:

venting your crankcase vent to the air? that legal like that if so im so there, man that set up is crying for extractors looks sweet tho

pete

dunno if it's legal, but the filter helps heaps with emissions. it's better than venting all the stuff back into ur engine.

im not getting extractors for 1 simple reason. im getting a custom made exhaust manifold for the RB25 turbo. the car as it is now will run a high 16 N/A without extractors.

yes Wagon* it is the stock intake manifold with a custom adapter plate, flown to the carby. (good job too, thanks TC) yeah, it's not a bad setup. it's pretty well done (even though it's DIY :)) i was gunna make the rocker cover red but now it's black, i can't believe i wanted it red. engine bay still looks a mess with about 40 different colours, especially the blue coil lead and the red/black ignition leads. i'm gunna fix everything up for the next 6 months or so. get the interior/exterior and engine bay etc perfect so wen i get it turbo'ed it will be a monster that looks good :)

if your looking at getting the same mods i have done i can give u prices.

$50 for the carb (i recommend u rebuild it and change the jets too though. about $70 extra)
$140 for the stock cam to be reground (as apposed to $300 for one from Crow Cams)
$60 for open air circular filter
$330 for 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust with a supercat muffler and a middle muffler (i just got a lukey welded in that a mate had. cost $30)
$30 or so for scoop and CAI (DIY, with sort of an airbox around the open air filter for the scoop to flow air into)

that is all i've spent and the car has run a 17 flat, and is about to run 16's after the rebuilt carby. wen u take everything off the engine and get rid of the carb etc, it looks a much cleaner and much more simple engine bay to work in. it's great, plenty of room for a turbo at the front too :cool:

ok what type of filter is that on the crankcase vent setup you got think ill do the same id say having the filter on it would make it ok if you were just venting to open air id say that would be a problem, im going to spray my extractors with that heat resistant black paint as i can start to see surface rust on mine and thats not good.

ok what type of filter is that on the crankcase vent setup you got think ill do the same id say having the filter on it would make it ok if you were just venting to open air id say that would be a problem, im going to spray my extractors with that heat resistant black paint as i can start to see surface rust on mine and thats not good.

it's just a small filter from autobarn. i think usually ppl come in to get one to put on turbo cars but yeah i dunno. i reckon it's alright as long as it has the filter on there aswell.

apparently if u continue spraying ur headers (while cool then let it warm up to bake), RP7 is good and will change the headers a diff colour. alot darker

well i dont know about other states but vic roads (if i have time ill find the document) states that it has to go back into the combustion chamber. where you have yours i have a hose going to an oil catch can, and on the other side where the PCV valve is i poped my little filter on. then again im not sure how much slack they offer for older cars

yeah i dont think it makes any difference, i and brendan only have one because it is a simple and cost effective way to deal with it, he and i have none of the original airbox setups, dont bother if u have a proper way to do it.