s_tim_ulate
26-02-2005, 03:51 PM
we (my friend and i) put a bit of sound proofing in, but didnt really worry about it originally (due to lack of funds) anyhow now, i think that it may be causing excess damage to the car and speakers due to lack of sound deadening.. any guides you have or brands which you can reconmend?
Cheers
parabol
Comes down to how much you want to spend, a little bit will see a great benefit usually.
I have stinger roadkill expert atm, definetly recommend it. Also G-Spot and Serenity max are all in the same ballpark.
Flashtac is too thin and requires two layers usually, but if you don't want to spend heaps this is also an option.
As to application, I have done both sides of my doors, but many opt just for the inner layer. It is also wise to seal up the service holes as much as possible using mdf and gaffa tape etc then sound deadening over this. This provides a better cavity for your speakers, and whilst it is almost impossible to seal up a door completely, if you can seal up 95% it does wonders, and also stops reflections/cancellation within your doors.
On that note, for a few $ you can stick acoustic tiles behind your midbass drivers, to stop waves reflecting off the back of the door onto the speaker itself. These are just foam tiles (that you see in recording studios)
Deadening itself aims to reduce the resonant frequency of the panel. Once you have gotten rid of this there are still many other rattles in the door itself. Use electrical tape around lock rods to add weight to these and jam foam/rags in b/w whatever you can find that is rattling. (I did this in between the stock speaker covers in my tf.)
Finally after all this is done you will notice the door trim itself resonates, as this has many curves in it, traditional deadener is hard to apply. So try a paint based deadener to get into all the cracks.
Deadener is available from most good car audio shops. Also autobarn and Jaycar (although not heavy duty) and you should aim to spend around $100 - $150 on two front doors.
3rd gens arent too bad for boot rattles as they already have compounds separating the bootlid from the frame. Deadener may be necessary for subs running more than ~300w rms.
Deadener is different to sound proofing, sound proofing, eg the stuff under your carpet and on your firewall, attempts to stops sound waves passing through it. While deadener adds weight to panels. (Nevertheless after deadening, your car will be much quieter.) But adding soundproofing will reduce road noise, which is also beneficial for good sound quality.
If you need advice on applying it and sealing up your doors etc let me know.
here's some pics of my tf doors.
Peace
Tim
Cheers
parabol
Comes down to how much you want to spend, a little bit will see a great benefit usually.
I have stinger roadkill expert atm, definetly recommend it. Also G-Spot and Serenity max are all in the same ballpark.
Flashtac is too thin and requires two layers usually, but if you don't want to spend heaps this is also an option.
As to application, I have done both sides of my doors, but many opt just for the inner layer. It is also wise to seal up the service holes as much as possible using mdf and gaffa tape etc then sound deadening over this. This provides a better cavity for your speakers, and whilst it is almost impossible to seal up a door completely, if you can seal up 95% it does wonders, and also stops reflections/cancellation within your doors.
On that note, for a few $ you can stick acoustic tiles behind your midbass drivers, to stop waves reflecting off the back of the door onto the speaker itself. These are just foam tiles (that you see in recording studios)
Deadening itself aims to reduce the resonant frequency of the panel. Once you have gotten rid of this there are still many other rattles in the door itself. Use electrical tape around lock rods to add weight to these and jam foam/rags in b/w whatever you can find that is rattling. (I did this in between the stock speaker covers in my tf.)
Finally after all this is done you will notice the door trim itself resonates, as this has many curves in it, traditional deadener is hard to apply. So try a paint based deadener to get into all the cracks.
Deadener is available from most good car audio shops. Also autobarn and Jaycar (although not heavy duty) and you should aim to spend around $100 - $150 on two front doors.
3rd gens arent too bad for boot rattles as they already have compounds separating the bootlid from the frame. Deadener may be necessary for subs running more than ~300w rms.
Deadener is different to sound proofing, sound proofing, eg the stuff under your carpet and on your firewall, attempts to stops sound waves passing through it. While deadener adds weight to panels. (Nevertheless after deadening, your car will be much quieter.) But adding soundproofing will reduce road noise, which is also beneficial for good sound quality.
If you need advice on applying it and sealing up your doors etc let me know.
here's some pics of my tf doors.
Peace
Tim