++++
Greetings All.

Ive been looking into getting some alpine gear of late...the main reason for this is that ive only heard GREAT things about thier amps...I was thinking of a 4-channel V12 amp and a V series mono block to run a duo of subs...

Now ive always been into good quality sound rather then LOUD music (although i do like to crank often...) What do you guys think?? I also saw their S-type 12" subs and fell in love with them...they look AWSOME!!! But how well do they perform...?

At the moment Im running a Pioneer Head Unit (DEH-4650MP), JL Audio Splits (TR 600 CXi), and planning on some Clarion/JL 6x9's for some rear fill...(no subs in the near future due to lack of funds...) All wrapped up in some Stinger Roadkill Expert sound deadening...

Help me?? What do you think of my amature system??

Thanks Guys!!
--Tonba
++++

In terms of sq and underrated power nothing goes past their older v12's. Series 1 especially.

mrv-1000 etc. These date back to 97/98 and still have heaps of power today.

The V-Power series are not rated as highly in terms of sq, but for subs, it's much of a muchness as to whether you'll notice.

If you're specifically after sq, consider maybe an idmax over a type s. Just a thought. Alpine are known for their amps and processors and while they make good subs, there are better brands out there.

There's some good equipment there anyway, I'm sure you'll be happy with it all.
For sq, you'll want to get as much bass up front, so ur subs don't drive ur stage back too much, then play ur subs nice n low, so you can't locate them.

Forget rear fill, you won't need it (let ur passengers complain ;)). If you blend your rears into your subs then it drags everything backwards. In a good sq system, if you are just using the fronts sounds will still appear to come from behind you and you get a very full feeling still.

Peace

Tim

2 12" type S dual 2 ohm subs + MRD-M501 monoblock will go very nicely.

Atm i just have a single type s 12 which is only getting 140w RMS and it goes hard. Currently looking for around 300w RMS courtesy of a Crossfire, Alpine, or Phoenix Gold 2 channel.

Dont stab me, but i'm not the greatest fan of alpine stuff (speakers, subs and some amps).

Oldschool V12 alpine amps are awesome though..tough as nails too

I mean, their advertising, name and reputation is very well known. The only things i like from alpine are the source units, screens, multimedia stuff...and maybe x-type sub :badgrin:


but really....how 'tough' is a nail? and how fast to pancakes sell? :nuts:

2 12" type S dual 2 ohm subs + MRD-M501 monoblock will go very nicely.

Atm i just have a single type s 12 which is only getting 140w RMS and it goes hard. Currently looking for around 300w RMS courtesy of a Crossfire, Alpine, or Phoenix Gold 2 channel.

me me me, my amp! :D

++++
Greetings All.


In terms of sq and underrated power nothing goes past their older v12's. Series 1 especially.

mrv-1000 etc. These date back to 97/98 and still have heaps of power today.

The V-Power series are not rated as highly in terms of sq, but for subs, it's much of a muchness as to whether you'll notice.

If you're specifically after sq, consider maybe an idmax over a type s. Just a thought. Alpine are known for their amps and processors and while they make good subs, there are better brands out there.

There's some good equipment there anyway, I'm sure you'll be happy with it all.
For sq, you'll want to get as much bass up front, so ur subs don't drive ur stage back too much, then play ur subs nice n low, so you can't locate them.

Forget rear fill, you won't need it (let ur passengers complain ;)). If you blend your rears into your subs then it drags everything backwards. In a good sq system, if you are just using the fronts sounds will still appear to come from behind you and you get a very full feeling still.

Peace

Tim
I REALLY like the polished alumminum look of the S types...any other brand of subs with a similar look to them?? Any alternatives??

Also, are the newer V12's as good as the oldies??

Cheers,
--Tonba
++++

Nope series 1 are the best by far (as rated by many audiophiles), series 2 also very good (same build quality and components) just not as underrated powerwise.
I think over time marketing picks up and people are more after looks, etc. And not as interested in quality.

Rockford punch subs are silver. Never heard them though.

++++
Greetings All.

Ive been looking into getting some alpine gear of late...the main reason for this is that ive only heard GREAT things about thier amps...I was thinking of a 4-channel V12 amp and a V series mono block to run a duo of subs...

Now ive always been into good quality sound rather then LOUD music (although i do like to crank often...) What do you guys think?? I also saw their S-type 12" subs and fell in love with them...they look AWSOME!!! But how well do they perform...?

At the moment Im running a Pioneer Head Unit (DEH-4650MP), JL Audio Splits (TR 600 CXi), and planning on some Clarion/JL 6x9's for some rear fill...(no subs in the near future due to lack of funds...) All wrapped up in some Stinger Roadkill Expert sound deadening...

Help me?? What do you think of my amature system??

Thanks Guys!!
--Tonba
++++
Ive got a v12 monoblock (MRP-M350) with 2x12" S-types. Didnt cost me a whole lot either at the time, like $500 in a very high quality sealed enclosure. The bass is stupid to say the least, and thats setting the headunit crossovers to 120hz.

++++
Greetings All.


Ive got a v12 monoblock (MRP-M350) with 2x12" S-types. Didnt cost me a whole lot either at the time, like $500 in a very high quality sealed enclosure. The bass is stupid to say the least, and thats setting the headunit crossovers to 120hz.
What do you mean the bass is stupid...can you expand on what you mean...please?

Thanks guys!
--Tonba
++++

i tihnk thats as far as his vocabulary goes

Me thinks that means loud...

++++
Greetings All.


What do you mean the bass is stupid...can you expand on what you mean...please?

Thanks guys!
--Tonba
++++

This was from moving from a decent setup with a 2-channel v12 bridged into a single fusion 10". no comparison whatsoever, i barely use my current sub setup at 50% capacity, its just too much. Ive had this for about a year and im still not used to the bass :D

This was from moving from a decent setup with a 2-channel v12 bridged into a single fusion 10". no comparison whatsoever, i barely use my current sub setup at 50% capacity, its just too much. Ive had this for about a year and im still not used to the bass :D

so u would recommend i go all out and buy another type s and an alpine monoblock instead of sticking with the single type s and getting something like a V12 MRV-T420 (240w RMS bridged 4ohm @ 12V) ?

so u would recommend i go all out and buy another type s and an alpine monoblock instead of sticking with the single type s and getting something like a V12 MRV-T420 (240w RMS bridged 4ohm @ 12V) ?

go get a mrd m500..should match the T420 quite well. The more amps the better it is. hehe

go get a mrd m500..should match the T420 quite well. The more amps the better it is. hehe

nah its either one or the other. one monoblock wired at 2 ohms running 2 dual 2ohm type s's, OR one 2 channel wired in series at 4ohm running 1 dual 2ohm type s.
Well im pretty sure thats how it is anyway.

nah its either one or the other. one monoblock wired at 2 ohms running 2 dual 2ohm type s's, OR one 2 channel wired in series at 4ohm running 1 dual 2ohm type s.
Well im pretty sure thats how it is anyway.
Thats how it is.
The amp will see a two ohm load running two d2's. With each coil wired in parallel = 1 ohm load per sub. And the two subs wired in series = 1 + 1 = 2 ohms total load.

My 2c, when I was looking at 2 12's, it was between the S-types, and the eclipse 12's, out of the 2, i chose the eclipse (much nicer IMHO), so give them a listen...

Daz

*cough* digital designs *cough* :P

My 2c, when I was looking at 2 12's, it was between the S-types, and the eclipse 12's, out of the 2, i chose the eclipse (much nicer IMHO), so give them a listen...

Daz
:stoopid: Yeh Eclipse have a pretty good reputation as well. Havent heard a lot of their stuff though.

Peace

Tim

thought i would use this thread to update what i decided to buy, seeing as it is staying on topic.

MRD-M301, another 12" Type S (already had one), plus box, all new stuff, for $600 :D

It was gunna be $900 if i went the 501, and that was stretching my budget a little too far :cry:

++++
Greetings All.

Can you guys please explain to me how to dismantle the doors...(replacing front speakers...) Also any tips i may need to know...anything in there that i may need to be aware of....?
Im going to mount the speaker on a MDF board and sound deaden...

Stimulate...how would i go about sound deadening with some stinger roadkill extream.../pro (what eva it is..)

Cheers,
--Tonba
++++

Hey Tonba...

To remove 3rd Gen Front door trims:

1. Undo the 3 holding screws :
-Behind (opened) interior door handle.
-In the door aircon vent (while door open)
-Inside the armrest handle. A square plastic cover clips off to reveal it.

2. Window winders (Non-pwr models):
-Using a flat-blade screw driver, preferably covered in cloth, pry off the C-Clip which is under the rubber boot at the base of the winder handle.
-Alternatively get a thin cloth, fold it in half to form a sharp edge, then pull it under the rubber boot, useing a see-saw action until it jags onto the end of the C-Clip & flicks it off.

3. Clips Around Outside of Door:
-Use a cloth covered screw driver (to prevent damaging the vinyl & paint) or even a plastic spatula/eggflip to place between the door trim & the metal body of the door. Gently prize all the clips free.
-Once all clips are free, lift the door trim so the lipped section clears the top of the door & remove.
-For models with power windows & courtesy lights, unclip harnesses before attempting to take away completely.

4. Refitting:
-Follow previous steps in reverse, making sure any harnesses are replaced & the trim is aligned properly before attempting to press the clips home.

____
It's always preferable to install onto MDF spacers, although I had to router mine as my cone was protruding into the door trim at full excursion.

You can fit 6 or 6.5 inch speakers in, for 6.5 you screw into the indents provided. This will make sense when the doors are off.

Solder your wires to your speaker terminals if possible.

---------

To deaden ur doors.
There's a bit of info and pics here (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12362)
I'm on my way out to get drunky drunky... So lemme know if you need to know anything else specific.

btw: If anyone in vic (S.E burbs) needs deadener I have a few big sheets of astromat. Stuff is 2mm thick. Very heavy. Has paper backing/tar based and is very popular throughout asia. (was imported) Not as easy to use as the roadkill. (Might require a bit of heat beforehand in the sun or via heatgun/hairdryer.)

Sheets are pretty big too...

Let me know and I'll see what I can do.

Peace Out

Tim

++++
Greetings All.

What did you guys do wity hthe water proof skin?? did you replace it with anything??

Cheers,
--Tonba
++++

Nah if you sound deaden correctly you wont need it anyway.

If you don't fill up the service holes u will need it. If the door fills up with water none should get into the cabin.

Double check to make sure your drain holes are empty as well.

Dont forget to thoroughly clean the surface with degreaser beforehand otherwise ur deadener will come loose after a year or two.