when I am driving my tp wagon it is fine till stop at lights and so on if I leave auto in drive the car gets a vibration through it but if I select neutral the vibe goes away is this normal or is it in need of service or something worse wrong with it? please

engine mounts are dead, been there, had that, still kinda do :confused:
just need 4 new engine mounts. delightful i know, ure wallet and mech will love you for asking for them.

i've replaced two of the 4 mounts (the two rollstop ones...) and it does this... much worse with the airconditioner on... i just slip it into neutral

anyone got solution - OTHER than getting new mounts??

yeah, you could get new mounts.

oh wait. hehe
wish there was a solution. bugs me how fast they wear out.

WELD THE MOTOR TO THE BODY OF THE CAR!!! :rofleek:

i put urathane ones - cos apparently they last longer... they were done about this time last year... ohh well... neutral is it

i got new mounts for mine, and got injectors cleaned, still a bit rumbly at idle. Not as bad as it used to thats for sure, but i still rather slip it into neutral, not very hard

its an automatic transmission problem, mounts will only stop it a little.

ummmm, no. its the mounts. when the car stops, the idle is making the engine vibrate in the engine mount support brackets and thereby sending a shake thru the body. slipping it to neutral increases the revs and therby removes the power to wheels ready low rev and stopping the shake.
u can get it in a manual to if u leave it in gear, but hard to do that with a clutch. only more obvious in auto coz the cars always in gear.

i just thought it was a standard feature that came with all magnas :P

hahaha, back massager option. not listed till the car's bedded in yrs after. lol

ummmm, no. its the mounts. when the car stops, the idle is making the engine vibrate in the engine mount support brackets and thereby sending a shake thru the body. slipping it to neutral increases the revs and therby removes the power to wheels ready low rev and stopping the shake.
u can get it in a manual to if u leave it in gear, but hard to do that with a clutch. only more obvious in auto coz the cars always in gear.
no its not. a efi car can idle pretty low before it should shake violently.

ummmm, no. its the mounts. when the car stops, the idle is making the engine vibrate in the engine mount support brackets and thereby sending a shake thru the body. slipping it to neutral increases the revs and therby removes the power to wheels ready low rev and stopping the shake.
u can get it in a manual to if u leave it in gear, but hard to do that with a clutch. only more obvious in auto coz the cars always in gear.

has anyone been smart enough to make an auto that switches into neutrul what at 0kmph, without having to manually do it?

:roll: yeah, and when it starts to rev low, what happens.............
you can make any car rev low, its the problem when it does rev low, and has no absorbtion for the vibration. dude, i know, been there like 3 times, and had the car 5yrs k.

and terrosidic, i think there should be a switch that acts like the air con system (rev increaser), where at xxxrpm, the switch kicks in to increase the revs for less vibration, would save a neutral shift then.

i smell another auto tranny mod :D

wait, y, not just increase the idle rpm?

be a heck of a mod, best layout for it i reckon would be brake/ rpm = desired rpm. dunno how you'd do it, but when brake is applied, and rpm reads, idle Drive revs, kick revs to say 950rpm, less vibration. however, i remember i used to have 1 foot on the brake and hold the revs at 1000 and it would still vibrate worse than a neutral shift, coz there's a load in the engine from the gearbox...... so, i dunno, worth looking into.

oh and u cant just have a higher rpm, i tried that, just causes hassles for take off and braking, plus uses more fuel. as it is for my car, in neautral after being warm for a while the rpm will sit at 1000 and sometimes kick to 1100, not to sure as where the extra 100 comes from. but gives u a clue in, and i have no vibra problems then, worst time is with air con, really hot day, both fans going left in D and u could make a milkshake

mine idles at 950rpm only after a nice long run, mostly its 1000 exact

(im too use to my old falcon idling on 750-500rpm normally, and 400 after a nice run)

yeah, i dont pay much attn to it, after a tune up ill adjust the rpm to where it likes to be, but i think normally the rpms sit at 690, 750. i know most my other cars sit at 500, dunno what the valiant sits at, no rpm guage :redface:

yeh my car use to idle fairly rough and it was due to vacuum leaks (fixed now) engine is very sensitive to unmetered air at idle. it idles now at 500rpm in gear and about 850-900rpm in neutral. its a carby by the way.

its a carby by the way.
with nitro injection so is said :D yeah, i had a bad idle for a while, ended up being 2 broken end connections with the spark leads and crack in the dizzy cap.

i donno if i should bother playing with it atm, i think all my gaskets are stuffed, the motor is covered in oil/grease and im scared to ask how much itll cost :(

is the shudder at idle REALLY fast and uniform? like 4 jolts a second and really consistant?

yep, i figured it was to do with mitsu's poor arse gearboxs, and that the engine is tryin to fight the brakes, and that force needs to go somewhere, so it shakes the car crazy :P

My Scorp i have idles extreemly rough at anything under 1000rpm. A 280 degree cam will do that :D

yep, i figured it was to do with mitsu's poor arse gearboxs, and that the engine is tryin to fight the brakes, and that force needs to go somewhere, so it shakes the car crazy
yeah basically. if theres nothing there to take the shock then the car certainly wil, lol, can you imagine if the car had no rubbers at all. i kinda wouldnt mind seeing that. dont think it'd live long.

why not adjust the idle screw on the carby to make it idle higher??? wouldn't that be easier than making something/altering the thing that revs the car when the air con is on??

well, rather than me telling you why, why not do it for ureself, and then ull find out first hand.
that way you'll know over me just telling you and you trying it later anyway, hehe

well, rather than me telling you why, why not do it for ureself, and then ull find out first hand.
that way you'll know over me just telling you and you trying it later anyway, hehe

cos i cant be assed doing itlol

that and i'm at tafe atm...

usually i forget about it, until i drive the car - then it annoys me... but i forget to change it until next time i drive it...

can i guess what happens?? you use more fuel?

yeah, thats part of it.

what else??

you creep foward heaps if you take your foot off the brake?

or the little guys that sit in my carby and operates it will get pissed?

or my car will fall apart cos the idle screw holds everything on the car together?

TELL ME!!!

(you guessed it - i'm bored...)

well for starters, if you have your Drive idle rpm at like 950, then your neutral rpm will be at like 1600, and your cold start choke rpm will be at 2200, itll be harder for the car to start, and will get to much fuel for the fuel system in 1 rotation, so you'd be running the car rich....

i think this next part may be horse crap.
but the brake master cylinder wouldnt get enough compression due to higher rpm, thereby braking in D would be like N, you'd have no compression in your braking....

i think that is false tho, doesnt sound right. *EDIT* 'i seriously think i made that part up. makes sense, but i dunno, i'll look on the net'

ok, higer idle rpm means more fuel consumtion at idle, and if u put it to high the stall converter keeps trying to go off and ure car doesnt like stoping and trys to fight the breaks, mines doin that atm, i think im genna blead my breaks

:eh: sooooo, is ure idle to high then? coz if ure cars doing that bleeding ure brakes wont help. it wont hurt to get new fluid, but it wont help the creep factor.
and yeah ure stall converter will fight even higher rpms, but that comes at like..... dunno never seen when the stallie kicks in. 2400 isnt it?

gotta love efi manuals :badgrin:

if i get bored, i might go see how low i can go :D

well for starters, if you have your Drive idle rpm at like 950, then your neutral rpm will be at like 1600, and your cold start choke rpm will be at 2200, itll be harder for the car to start, and will get to much fuel for the fuel system in 1 rotation, so you'd be running the car rich....

my car idles at 1000, in gear it drops to 800ish - sometimes 900... and choke is around 1400... the plate in the car says the idle should be at 800 with all electrical loads on... does this mean in D or just in N?? doesn't specify so i assume in P or N

ordinarily, it means, all electrical units including air con. alot of the manuals say different things. so, i ignore all and just keep tweaking it till i find something the car likes. i find its dependant per car, like my wagon is i think 750, my old efi manual was 650, my tp elite efi auto was 500 and held extremely well. and so on, it really depends on the engine and conditions, etc.

oh and i always do it in park, coz in park is the main thing, the car has to turn over to be able to drive. so.once u get a nice P or N rpm, then shift to D, and see if its nice, then go back and forth.

Try idling in gear at 550RPM... Boy was it rough!

However, I won't have to worry about that problem anymore. Due to the fact that the motor's dead, the car's next runs under it's own power will be with 5 gears. (Replacing the transmission at the same time. It's been stuffed for 70,000km...)

also if you are setting your idle based on your cars tacho its not the best idea. when i got my whole setup tuned i noted that the electronic tune up tacho (hooked to the dizzy) was far mor e accurate compared to the cars tacho, out as much as 100 - 120rpm!

cars tacho is used as a guide, you shouldnt really tune against it.

mm, that's very true, specially if someone like me rips apart a dash guage cluster to build a complete working one, and sticks the read arms anywhere, lol, nah i did em pretty accurate. my speed says 20 when im parked tho, lol

yep, i figured it was to do with mitsu's poor arse gearboxs, and that the engine is tryin to fight the brakes, and that force needs to go somewhere, so it shakes the car crazy :P
your indeed right, its not engine mounts at all and new ones wont fix the problem, they might make it a LITTLE better but not much

yeah rito, so then whats the exact problem with the gearbox then hmm.

they are 28 years old and grip slip grip slip in the stall converter, not gentaly apply torque to the input shaft.

yeah rito, so then whats the exact problem with the gearbox then hmm.
it was made by mitsu :D

they are 28 years old and grip slip grip slip in the stall converter, not gentaly apply torque to the input shaft.
18yrs, ok, so then tell me why the problem would still perisist even with a brand new gearbox.

it was made by mitsu
heheh, so was your efi system. lol

go buy 500 dollars of new engine mounts then http://forums.eis.net.au/images/smiles/icon_rolleyes.gif

everyone else, put it into N at the lights because unfortunatly there isn't much you can do :cry: sexed'tf's TP does it and ive spent alot of time trying to fix it and so has he

nah come on, why would it still do it if its got all new engine/ gearbox components.

they dont with working transmissions. its a stall converter problem. maybe the new ones do it because they have been overheated or something.

mmm, rito then. i'll ice the torque converter rip apart the block, check the counter balance shafts and get back to you.

i kinda agree with TC, since i got 300 bux worth of mounts mainly because my engine looked like it was going to fly out...and only fixed the traffic light drive issue slightly. My grandads TR has 50000 original km and runs awesome, so smooth, but even that in drive at the lights is still not perfect...i guess that just the way it is, he always puts it into neutral as well funnily enough. Dads soarer seems like the car is turned off when its sitting there...perfect :bowrofl:

what ones did u get replaced tho. i found that even tho u can replace 1 or 2, the 2 maine ones were the sides. coz the engines tends to lean backward when revd. also, theres that ridiculous little shock at the front with the autos that never looks like its doing anything, hehe

i was told by a mechanic that switching to N all the time with wear out ...something, i forget exactly, donno if he meant the bands or the actual lever thing :s

yeah, when i got told to do that i was afraid id be wearing something out, its mainly when you apply power to the acc then shift to D that your doing damage., making the chirp. its not the best to have to do it. but meh.

ahh i see, these were front and rear. and correction, it was 240 including labour

that's not bad, inclusive of labour. but it also depends where the rubbers came from. to make it that cheap, hehe.

ahh i see, these were front and rear. and correction, it was 240 including labour
i payed less then that but i got a quality manual so maybe its more cos the front mounts differnt on the autos, but mine suck if you plant it, still goes BANG and shuds the car......time to do a little welding i think

lol, welding?

lol, welding?
yer no banging noise or shudder....just body warp from the OUTRAGIOUS power from the astron IMAO....there would also be more power at the wheels to if the motor was welded to the frame and no need replace the mounts like every 3months :roll:

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA, well I'll let you be the guinea pig, and i have dibs on your body kit ok.

you might wanna invest in a mouth guard to stop ur own teeth killing each other :P

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA, well I'll let you be the guinea pig, and i have dibs on your body kit ok.
pfff now u want my kit as well why not just buy the whole thing already.......... $7000 thats 80% off discount m8s r8s and yes you can have my ambipur with that deal too

has anyone been smart enough to make an auto that switches into neutrul what at 0kmph, without having to manually do it?
Holden's Vectra auto does that.

pfff now u want my kit as well why not just buy the whole thing already.......... $7000 thats 80% off discount m8s r8s and yes you can have my ambipur with that deal too
nah, i just want you right hand drivers part of the kit. u can have the rest of the car.


Holden's Vectra auto does that.
really? you know what yr model it is. may do some research...
is it the holden model or the opel overseas 1?

i kinda agree with TC, since i got 300 bux worth of mounts mainly because my engine looked like it was going to fly out...and only fixed the traffic light drive issue slightly. My grandads TR has 50000 original km and runs awesome, so smooth, but even that in drive at the lights is still not perfect...i guess that just the way it is, he always puts it into neutral as well funnily enough. Dads soarer seems like the car is turned off when its sitting there...perfect :bowrofl:
rwd's dont have the problem of torquing the motor off the side engine mounts because they are 100% solid, its a fwd problem. whoever came up with the idea of a fwd auto should be shot anyway.

yeh my car use to idle fairly rough and it was due to vacuum leaks (fixed now) engine is very sensitive to unmetered air at idle. it idles now at 500rpm in gear and about 850-900rpm in neutral. its a carby by the way.

after removing the aircon, my car does that now :D

tho it was going funny abit after 5min of driving, it felt like a few miss fires
:confused:

nah come on, why would it still do it if its got all new engine/ gearbox components.
yep... i got a reconditioned auto and a reconditioned motor... and it still does it

its a problem nothing can fix i dont believe, short of a brand new stall converter

and if ya got one, engine mounts fix it to. :D

as a part of my trans reco - it got a new stall converter...

really? you know what yr model it is. may do some research... is it the holden model or the opel overseas 1?
Previous shape Vectra (before the current "euro" shape) had it already. When you sat at the lights the car goes into neutral; it does "thump" if you try doing draggies from standstill. :P But if you pre-load the tranny with a little throttle whilst still on the brakes it'll revert into drive before you move off.