Hey guys,
Just 1 question, we all talk about doing a CAI, and removing the stock intake. But what happens if say, we leave the stock one in there AND have a CAI? will this work better? or will it stuff things up?

the air flow from both intakes will just collide with each other and cause all sorts of weird things to happen just before they reach the MAS....

i think he meant an open pipe down near the bumper drawing in cold air... leading up to the stock box/filter assy, so only essentially the one filter... but I guess he will answer that shortly... I don't see why it wouldn't work if it is going through the original inlet pipe. cold air from one place instead of another right? :) or wrong? :(

I did this last week. added another pipe from the bottom coming up to the standard cai..I call it my MAI.. as in More Air Intake.. felt a very light differance but will work when going faster if anything..

I did this last week. added another pipe from the bottom coming up to the standard cai..I call it my MAI.. as in More Air Intake.. felt a very light differance but will work when going faster if anything..

I think tim-e made something similar. He kept the stock airbox, and ripped out the snorkel, and fed a pipe down somewhere....interesting i thought. maybe you could convince a stupid cop it was stock if u made it look nice. Its not acually illegal doing that is it. i mean, its still a filter in a box..

I think tim-e made something similar. He kept the stock airbox, and ripped out the snorkel, and fed a pipe down somewhere....interesting i thought. maybe you could convince a stupid cop it was stock if u made it look nice. Its not acually illegal doing that is it. i mean, its still a filter in a box..


Ive left the standard VRX cai and just added to it... still got to tiding up to do and paint it black.. Should be legal as the airbos is still enclosed..

I did this last week. added another pipe from the bottom coming up to the standard cai..I call it my MAI.. as in More Air Intake.. felt a very light differance but will work when going faster if anything..
He he... interesting approach... tell me though... have you tried blocking of the flat inlet vent on the original snorkel, so all air comes through the new pipe you have to see if anything is different? might be worth a try.

I pose a question to people... do you need some sort of restriction in flow through the intake to serve a functional purpose as far as air/fuel mixture is concerned? If too much free flowing air (under less pressure) passes through into the TB/plenum, does it in turn lessen the degree of air to fuel mixture?... I guess the MAF is supposed to detect air flow and adjust accordingly but can/could it reach a stage where it can only do so much? The MAF/MAS is a bit of a mystery to me. I hope that made sense :confused: I guess the sort of point that I am leading to I am hoping might explain the possible changes which might occur going from say... panel to pod. I have had changes in performance I am pretty sure small gains in one area and small losses in another.

I know the filter will only let 'x' amount through anyway but it's primary function is to filter, not restrict flow.

Yeh Ego that's pretty much what i did (only on the 2nd gens i only had room to go underneath the actual airbox. Was thinking of unblocking my old stock intake and having the 2 running together. In theory this is what could happen:
The 2 flows will hit each other and cause havoc
There will be less pressure and maybe the air wont travel as quickly? (i dunno about this one :doubt: )
The more open the intakes are the more air that's gonna get in. I might reconnect my old one and just see what happens :).

I can't believe how much some guys hack at their cars. No offense man, but that looks crap. What do you think a cop is gunna say as soon as he opens your bonnet. At least make a half-assed attempt to make it look professional. That hack job under the car was done after a slab and a few cones wasn't it? Doesn't even look good mate. Have you ever tried to use a jigsaw and a scribe? :slap:

take it easy on him

he said he is going to paint it..


i dont think there will be an issue with colliding air into the sensor
the filter and honeycomb section will sort that out.

he said he is going to paint it..

That's like putting a bandaid on a broken arm.

That's like putting a bandaid on a broken arm.
I guess you have made your point now cheers.

I can't believe how much some guys hack at their cars. No offense man, but that looks crap. What do you think a cop is gunna say as soon as he opens your bonnet. At least make a half-assed attempt to make it look professional. That hack job under the car was done after a slab and a few cones wasn't it? Doesn't even look good mate. Have you ever tried to use a jigsaw and a scribe? :slap:


I dont give a Funk what it looks like.. I have still go more to do as i need to make some more alterations to length.. if you dont drive like a funken tool then cops wont look under your bonnet.. i take it your a imature "P" plater if your worried about what under the bonnet looks like as this is my daily driver not my AMG E55 show car..

Btw if i wanted to hear from a assshole i would of farted.. as the other two members just said you have had your say now sit the funk down..

Ok now you both have vented... let that be the end of it ;) ... and help answer my damn question lol

you are aiming to get the least resistance possible, the MAS would still be capable of correctly reading, it is just reading, the maximum amount of air attainable is basically unlimited, the sensor reads this and its up to the fuel pump and subsequent system to match the demand.

What i want to know is would it be benificial to use smoother piping rather than ribbed stuff....

and Kansai, that is just gay, the piping is there for a purpose and doesnt look that horrid (if the end of your piping was still cyclical it'd look hot)...plus not everyone wants to fork out 200$ (as iam) for some smooth stainless piping straight to the front bar.
On this note would i require a auto electrician to make up some longer wiring so my MAS can reach me front bar or could i go to some store and pick up some wire???

i did this over 12 months ago i took the resinator off of the bottom of the snorkle and re-attached some plummers pipe from infront of the bar to the whole left after removing the resinator and it does work higher up in the revs the pipe alows cooler air to flow more than the standard snorkle.

On this note would i require a auto electrician to make up some longer wiring so my MAS can reach me front bar or could i go to some store and pick up some wire???
Depends how much you know about electronics. You could buy some wire, hook it up onto the existing wires by cutting, soldering and insulating them.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/667000-667999/667650_33.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/667000-667999/667650_35_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/667000-667999/667650_45_full.jpg

Heres mine for you that have not seen in. I don't have the filter sealed to the tube because I don't want any restriction. At speed air is forced onto the filter via the Tube coming from the headlight. The faster I go the more air is forced at the filter.

I don't have the filter sealed to the tube because I don't want any restriction.

With the size of piping and relativlly short length, I doubt you would get enough restriction for a performance drop. I'd imagin the heat sucked through the open box would be more noticable, but thats just my speculation :D

PS I love the idea and the workmanship in the headlight modification :P

There is a restriction, not a big one but it's evident. The piping inside the headlight is only 2.5". I am going to re-do it with either 3" or 3.5". There is not heat problems yet though, the air being forced in keeps everything much cooler. We'll see how it acts in the warmer summer temps though. The temps here have been around 20-40F for the last 4 months. Thats around 0 centigrade, not sure which you guys use. So the MAF sensor has been cool to the touch at all times.

:fruitcake what a waste of parabolics

:gtfo:

It was an extra one I got off ebay for 20 bucks. They are standard here in the US and are a dime a dozen.

And in the future if you can't respect someones work you should just keep browsing.

:gtfo:

It was an extra one I got off ebay for 20 bucks. They are standard here in the US and are a dime a dozen.



True for $20 who cares lol

Yeah I'd go for a 3-4" pipe and box off the filter.

Yeah we use centigrade. And yeah at 0 degress I wouldn't seal it off either :bowrofl: .

But for warmer weather look at boxing it off, even if it's not a full seal (leave breather holes if it's a restriction) to let most of the cool air get sucked into the filter.

Well actually what I am going to end up doing before my next dyno session is get a 3" pipe for the intake pipe. Then 2 90 dergree silicone couplers. It will come off the throttle body with a 90 then to the straight pipe then another 90. So it's pointing towards the battery which is no longer there. Then make a sealed of box for the filter to sit in. The headlight tube will lead directly into the box. Then one more 5" opening underneath the filter. This should result no restriction except the maf and filter and the coolest possible air. Heres a quick paint shop of what it will look like. Sorry to whoevers engine bay I destroyed. lol It was easier to use because the correct pipe was already in place for the most part. :cool:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/psshhwhat/futureintake.jpg

Depends how much you know about electronics. You could buy some wire, hook it up onto the existing wires by cutting, soldering and insulating them.

I could do that, can work with solder (although i havent for about 4 years), but i don't know what you mean by insulating the wires, if its as simple as me getting some rubber and electrical tape it'd be too easy but....i dont really know if its that simple

He means insulate them. You wouldn't want bare wires in the engine bay. Taping wouldn't be what I would do but you could do it. I would get some heat shrink tubing and do each wire individually (obviously) then just zip-tie them into a neat bundle. I am going to have to do it when I move my Maf.

yes insulate them, with rubber tubes, duct tape or whatever. better conductivity and you dont want exposed metal wires in an engine bay where there's metal and possibly water that could come into contact with them. All the MAS wires are colour coded so it's just a matter of buying some wire that is the same size/metal, and extend with solder connecting them together, and then insulate the wires well.

i'm pretty sure i mentioned rubber in my reply, next question what stores should i be looking in for this wire, i assume any hardware store?? and the heat shrink rubber.

I pose a question to people... do you need some sort of restriction in flow through the intake to serve a functional purpose as far as air/fuel mixture is concerned? If too much free flowing air (under less pressure) passes through into the TB/plenum, does it in turn lessen the degree of air to fuel mixture?... I guess the MAF is supposed to detect air flow and adjust accordingly but can/could it reach a stage where it can only do so much? The MAF/MAS is a bit of a mystery to me. I hope that made sense :confused: I guess the sort of point that I am leading to I am hoping might explain the possible changes which might occur going from say... panel to pod. I have had changes in performance I am pretty sure small gains in one area and small losses in another.

The air and fuel are mixed in the ports prior to entering the cylinder. The port walls and entry angles contribute to mixing of air/fuel. The MAF will tell the ECU to do quite a lot with the available air. The oxygen sensor in the exhaust will balance the air/fuel ratio also. As mentioned, fuel pump, rail pressure, rail volume, injector size will determine how much fuel can actually be supplied to meet the demands of the MAF. The ECU has preset ratios etc, further complicated by crank angle sensors, TDC sensors etc. That's why piggy back or replacement ecu's are best used for high airflow applications (i.e. turbo and s/c, heavily modified N/A), they can be programmed to either alter the MAF readings before they reach the ECU or act as the ECU and perform air/fuel and ignition functions along parameters better suited to tuning and operating a modified engine system. I think.



I know the filter will only let 'x' amount through anyway but it's primary function is to filter, not restrict flow.

Actually many filters do a great job of restricting flow :D