Well now i have fixed my car i also played with my tps and got some decent results from that to, to the point i can now do whatever i like with the carby.

what i did was got the tps for a tp carby, its diffrent to the tn/tm, set it to a resistance of 2.8 ohms, used a multimeter and a spoon lol
plug in the tps so its just hanning there not attached to anything cept the wires,

driving results
well its pretty nice to cruise with on flat and down hill though it detects u have very little throttle so changes at pretty low rpms so very economical, hitting overdrive around 50-60, if u feel it doesnt have enough guts for a task, u can get the resistance higher, or u can drive it like a manual car
eg L = 1st, 2= 2nd, D = 3rd, OD switch = 4.
using it this way gives me more control and feels mad, i love it, and now can do the webber conversion

ummm, ok, I fail to see what ure getting at, I got the drive it like a drag car, l-2-d-od
but whats the rest? lol

the rest is that i no longer need the tps on the carby so anyone wanted to change to a webber yet having the problem of the tps can now change to a webber,

you can do it even with a tps, couldnt you get that working?

never tried, i was looking the the tn/tm style tps first, the tp one would be easyer to do it with, as the tntm style is compleatly diffrent,

mehyeh, If I had the time or the bother I'd do it, I got all the parts to. kinda like everything i do,
it's the Bother factor, latest tv show, watch me sit on my a** instead of get things done.

it may not be the 'best' way around the tps problem, but ****, its something for now

so notorius :bowrofl:

the ultimate way around it, is a mechanical gbox instead of electronic gearbox. wouldnt need the tps then, just run it like an old skool car.
prob is where is that lovely non existant gbox lol

it does exist, just its called a manual ;)

i mean the one without using ure left arm and left foot extensively, :D

yeh i need to adjust my TPS, i measured mine and it sits 1.1k ohm (with throttle closed ie, its starting point).

right now my car shifts when driving slowly about 2,800-3,000rpm ish and when gunning it about 4,500rpm-4,700rpm, so i guess setting it to prephaps 2k ohm will drop a few rpm. basicly i want the shifts when im gunning it around 3,500-4,000rpm, theres no point really shifting higher than say 4,000 as its top end has no balls. want to shift around its peak torque (2800rpm).

havent really looked lately, but last time i attacked first gear i think it went to 5600 before changing, and i know 1nce ive had it wayyyyyy past that, was a scary shift, but damn did it sound awesome.

stock TPS (well im assumin no one has touched it on the car) read - 1.10k ohm (on my TN), i upped it to 1.44/1.45k ohm and i would have assumed shifts earlier but they are about 600rpm later, now all shifts at full throttle are 5,000rpm. ill play around with it.

nice info to know, i was wondering how to make my 2nd gear change longer in the rpm

well now (still playing with it) if im flooring it 1st -> 2nd happens around 60km/h or so, and 2nd -> 3rd happens about 100-105km/h. it loves it.

ok the lower resistance, the lower rpm it shifts at
eg, if u set it to 7 ohms, ure looking at 5-6000 rpm before it shifts. if u tune it to say 2.6 ohms uire in over drive before u get to 60kph, shifting below 3 grand

i mean the one without using ure left arm and left foot extensively, :D

Not like YOU can use your left hand and foot extensively :P

well now (still playing with it) if im flooring it 1st -> 2nd happens around 60km/h or so, and 2nd -> 3rd happens about 100-105km/h. it loves it.
woh, so basically ud be sitting in 2nd gear with the car screaming with high rpms..... hmmmm

Not like YOU can use your left hand and foot extensively
I do in my Hilux, it's 4x4 heheheh lol didn't think I was gonna get out of that 1 ahh.