Well my clutch is giving me the irrates. It started a few months back when the clutch wouldnt disengage properly and that would cruch gears and make selections harder. I replaced both the hydraulic parts and that helped, a bit, for a while.

Now im getting vibrations on startup until you put the clutch in and out, and sometimes when you go into gears the vibration is also there until you ease off the accel and then go back on it, when you get the vibration while driving it makes a fairly loud noise and you can feel it through the accelerator.

Also the gears still cruch and are sometimes difficult to select, especially going backwards into 1st n 2nd. There are no abnormal noises from the gearbox, and when i changed the oil it was low but there was no metal particles in it to speak of, and the vibrations go away when you let off the accel, so i dont think its the box.

So im guessing the drive plate and pressure plate are falling apart and ill need to replace them. Just wanted to see if anyone has had these problems, maybe it's something else?

until the end i thought you were telling us a story, lol had no 'what do you thinks' or do you agree' or any sign of a question mark lol
well with my old tn manual i had that problem but oddly enough it was fine if you went to reverse. In never removing the clutch housing and leaving the engine and gearbox in there I can't really give you an answer as to what it was.
so to end my ramble i have experienced it
but dont expect any help :D

sounds like the teeth on the pressure plate & thrust/throw bearing are ****ed, i did my clutch today in the TP and im rooted started at 8:30 this morning finished about 4 but i changed both CV's and shafts as well, my clutch was about .04mm from the rivets and would slip in 3rd gear when u floor it, crunch from 1st to 2nd uness i let the revs drop way down. its not a hard job once u have the drive shafts off and i was surprised how easy the clutch was to line up, just rember to torque the presure plate to 25 and CV nuts to 250. i can tell u how to do it if needed but its a 2 man job droping the box. its so nice now to feel the clutch start to grab as i lift just off the floor not 3" from it :) & no more click click click when turning left best part is now 4 tyres and my car is in rwc again

pete

sounds like the teeth on the pressure plate & thrust/throw bearing are ****ed, i did my clutch today in the TP and im rooted started at 8:30 this morning finished about 4 but i changed both CV's and shafts as well, my clutch was about .04mm from the rivets and would slip in 3rd gear when u floor it, crunch from 1st to 2nd uness i let the revs drop way down. its not a hard job once u have the drive shafts off and i was surprised how easy the clutch was to line up, just rember to torque the presure plate to 25 and CV nuts to 250. i can tell u how to do it if needed but its a 2 man job droping the box. its so nice now to feel the clutch start to grab as i lift just off the floor not 3" from it :) & no more click click click when turning left best part is now 4 tyres and my car is in rwc again

pete

hey pete, how much did the new clutch cost? and did u get new pressure plate etc? did u get any prices for a heavy duty clutch for the magna? im interested as i know im going to have to change my clutch soon. it only grabs like an inch from the pedal being all the way out haha... ohwell. PM me if u want with the prices

mine was almost the same a mile off the floor befor it would start to load, i had a good clutch here so i didnt have to part with the $$ for it & the thrust bearing was fine smooth as slik pressure plate the same no scores or weird marks from the slipping, its a pain in the ass to get the motivation to do it but dam well worth it, the drivers side CV we removed is scary the boot is amost riped in 2. ive still got to put the bash plates back on tomorrow but thats no biggie, im enjoying a few coldies and the fruits of my labour :bowrofl:

.... and the fruits of my labour :bowrofl:

kids? :confused:

Mines the opposite to yours, my clutch grabs at about 1mm from the ground, hell its grabbing with the clutch flat on the floor. You guys just had worn clutches, while i think mine is just falling apart.

any hints and tips reguarding the replacement, how hard was it to get the drive shafts out of the gearbox?

i did it as follows:

remove bash plates, aircleaner bell & pipe to TB, disconnect gear selector rods, undo slave cly, undo starter motor, drain gearbox, remove CV joint locking pins, loosen CV nuts, place car on stands and remove the wheels, remove brake calapers, disks, then unbolt the hub from the struts so u can move the hub to get the CVs out (drivers side cv slid out on its own passanger needed a small tap to free it from hub) unbolt passanger slide half shaft mounting bracket on the back of the block and slide entire passenger shaft out, drivers side needs a quick firm pull on the shaft to pop it out of the gearbox as they have a small spring clip on the driver side, undo gearbox bolts leaving gearbox engine mount last, place trolly jack under the box and undo the engine mount, pry box off the engine lowing it with the jack (make sure gear selectors dont fowl on the lower radiator pipe) and remove the box vier drivers side wheel arch, mark the pressure plate to the flywheel so you put it on the same way to keep it balanced, unbolt presure plate.

to put it all back on :) its the same but in reverse cvs & shafts wernt hard to remove at all hardest part of the whole job was finding the centre of gravity on the gearbox sitting on the jack so we could jack it back into place for bolting up.

mark the pressure plate to the flywheel so you put it on the same way to keep it balanced, unbolt presure plate.

That wouldn't apply as i'd replace the pressure plate tho. And one last question, how did you line up the driven plate and pressure plate, did you have a tool to assist you?

yeah the handle of the breaker bar :bowrofl: seriously, but you can see fine into the clutch from the wheel arch to make sure its centre, the box spline is tapered also so this helps

I got a Xtreme clutch Magna Pressure plate spare if u are interested...

i bought the kit, a PBR one from Bursons, cost $200 (well $174 after i showed my card and saved thankyou Mr RACV) And ive been part-timing it in a friends garage (not too urgent as the laser can get me about) and im finally up to the part of getting ithe box out and im finding it hard to get the bastard out straight considering i have only one trolley jack, im sure ill get it done.

Just keeping you informed.

think i found what the problem was.

Got it all out and found the bell housing FULL of crap and that the thrust bearing was seized and it had started to eat into the pressure plate fingers. The driven plate was about 1 mm over the rivets still, the pressure plate fingers were eaten about 1/2 - 1 mm also.

will post pics later if you like.

When you put it back together, make sure you put a 2mm spacer behind the release-fork pivot (as the PBR instructions state).. :)

heres a pic of my rooted pressure plate, and if you look around the edges of the fingers on the right you can see the brown dirt looking stuff, that was all the way thjrough the box. I guess its a combination of dirt, metal and debris from the wear on the driven plate.

looks to me like theres a few more burnouts left in that :P