hey all
after some hopefully cheapish upgrades for 1st gen breaks, eg bigger calipers ect, anything bolt on?

thanks
scott

this wont help you at all but magna stuff can fi on corollas, lol
in the way of cheap nothing will simply bolt on, but without spending a mcs*** load of cash, just get ure rotors machine, if they need to be, get some really good brake pads, nothing under 50$ and change your brake fluid, like all of it.
and you should have some braking power back
or if ure like me and really want braking power DBA slotted rotors with lucas 4x4 pads, nothing grips like the car thinking its offroad, lol

how much was that setup?

currently my rotors are warped, so im gonna hafta spend money sometime soon, and if those brakes you talk of are within something i can afford before april skool holidays, i might get em.

or if ure like me and really want braking power DBA slotted rotors with lucas 4x4 pads, nothing grips like the car thinking its offroad, lol

im sure off road pads are great for high temp operations,...... :doubt:
they may be good slowing from 60 - 0 at traffic lights. but stopping from speeds or continual use through twisty sections i cant see them beign any good.

im sure off road pads are great for high temp operations,...... :doubt:
they may be good slowing from 60 - 0 at traffic lights. but stopping from speeds or continual use through twisty sections i cant see them beign any good.
there better than most the crap on the markets, I've had em now for 9months and never regretted it, there sold with brand new bmw soccer mum trucks and all the expensive 4x4's, there a top pad, and the only reason they fit my car is cause of the triton.
That setup, Front only cost me i think $550, that was rotors and pads, I got a discount cause I knew the guy, well he knew me, but what am I complaining.
I think ordinarily its like 600 something, can't really remember, I can ring the guys up again and ask for exactly what I got, they could tell me how much they are now if you want. there out in chatswood.

dont worry about it, way outta my money area :P

there better than most the crap on the markets, I've had em now for 9months and never regretted it, there sold with brand new bmw soccer mum trucks and all the expensive 4x4's, there a top pad, and the only reason they fit my car is cause of the triton.
That setup, Front only cost me i think $550, that was rotors and pads, I got a discount cause I knew the guy, well he knew me, but what am I complaining.
I think ordinarily its like 600 something, can't really remember, I can ring the guys up again and ask for exactly what I got, they could tell me how much they are now if you want. there out in chatswood.

$550.. hmm, i got DBA slotted fronts, machined rears and lucas hi temps all round for $500, fluid change too. My brakes (spelt BRAKES, to BREAK is to f&^$ it up, you know, snap it in half, to BRAKE is to slow dowwwwwwwwn) used to fade like b*&ches but now i can punish it and they're gold, no doubt the magna has s*&# all - if any brake cooling in the design of them though, remember tyres are important in braking too, if you have brembo 4 potters and discs the size of the moon but with you're rolling on the average dunlop elcheapo tyre your gonna be sliding like a mother. Tyre choice is always forgotten.

I simply replaced the pads and machined the discs all round for $240. A brake fluid change happened at a service before that, further complementing the brake update.

The brake pads are branded "Hong Sung Gold". Apparently all mechanics use them. They are OE on all Korean makes. Web site is www.hsbrake.com

They give a bit more dust than my previous set, but that's my only complaint.

Braking is now almost noiseless even during hard stops (and I do drive hard :D). They are also very heat resistant, and pulls strongly to a stop every time (where my old pads would just lose the plot and even lock the wheels at the last 10 metres or so).

Highly recommended :D

Just my 2 cents.

Jeff

cheap way about it would be machine your discs new fluid and bendix all round

Im happy with my stopping power, bendix advance with machined rotors all round. I replaced all brake fluid at the time too....HOWEVER i was told by others that bendix can be squealy and noisy, I wasnt fussed, but mine do squeal really ****en loud initially!! After a few brakes there is little noise but the intial part holy! Still, I'm happy with them, not sure outside people like them or not :bowrofl:

i ran them on my other cars with no noise problems and yeah "they stop" nice hard wearing pad also

$550.. hmm, i got DBA slotted fronts, machined rears and lucas hi temps all round for $500,
I did say i cant remember, that price coulda been for something else, i bought like 5 things that day, 550 coulda been my tyres, *shrug* but i do remember now i bought front and rear pads, so... i dunno. around that ball park.

hmmm, so yeah thats about it for relativly cheap upgrades then?

its mainly because im planing some serious power upgrades,so i want to stop quick to

if you have serious power you cant have cheap stopping power, doesnt work that way :D
if anything you need more braking power than engine power to balance it out, can't ride the engine 2ice if you cant stop it, lol

hey what does aussie fella use with his turbo magna in the way of breaks?

Rosta Pesina's 'Original Sleeper' magna which put out over 300hp (which is way more than wat aussiefella will be putting out) did NOT upgrade his brakes. was said that the stock brakes were fine even for that much power... obviously they were kept in as good a condition as possible with pads being brand new (and probably better) but the discs were stock, and the fluid was kept in top condition.

something to think about

personally only a mad man would do that, lol or someone who wanted to spend the money on power over the ability to brake faster. even cars with essevily less power than 300kws tho more power than a stock efi magna have more advanced brakes. i wouldnt advise leaving them stock, vut every nutter to there own lol

if they work fine from 200kph down ill be happy lol
my main consern is engerneering ect if it gets boosted

i want something that wont bloody warp all the time :P

On my car i got DBA Gold Cross drilled and Slotted rotors all round, and EBC kevlar pads. All up costed $800. And they are able to stop my vr4 powered magna perfectly

You should be able to get some DBA rotors which are vented, some high quality lucas pads and perhaps overhaul your front cylinders then your rears in a few months. with a good bleed you will have MAD stopping power

just dont buy cheap pads, 80 for the fronts should be enough to get some high quality ones.

k, thanks, ill get some decent pads later this week, and bleed the system, then went more owrk starts on my car, ill redo everything with reco or new parts

hmmm..... sorry those who didn't go through me with a quote. I do agree that brakes are very important. You really should upgrade them before any power upgrade. The Bendix 4x4 pads are pretty good for going shopping and strett use. But if you want to push it through the hills and give your car hell, then I would recommend something a little better with heat.

we do as a package the RDA (stronger material than DBA) slotted with EBC Blackstuff (same as Bendix 4x4 quality but a lot less dust), for $335 delivered to most cities.

Even Bendix advance is only $55.

Brake fluid, we use Motul DOT 5.1 for $12 a bottle. We use these same fluid for track cars.

Have fun guys.

.....we do as a package the RDA (stronger material than DBA) slotted with EBC Blackstuff (same as Bendix 4x4 quality but a lot less dust), for $335 delivered to most cities.

Even Bendix advance is only $55.

Brake fluid, we use Motul DOT 5.1 for $12 a bottle. We use these same fluid for track cars.

Have fun guys.

$335? seems overly priced :S

$335? seems overly priced :S
errr thats really cheap i dont know where ur getting ur quotes from but thats disc and pad for 335 delivered :nuts:

hmmm..... sorry those who didn't go through me with a quote. I do agree that brakes are very important. You really should upgrade them before any power upgrade. The Bendix 4x4 pads are pretty good for going shopping and strett use. But if you want to push it through the hills and give your car hell, then I would recommend something a little better with heat.

we do as a package the RDA (stronger material than DBA) slotted with EBC Blackstuff (same as Bendix 4x4 quality but a lot less dust), for $335 delivered to most cities.

Even Bendix advance is only $55.

Brake fluid, we use Motul DOT 5.1 for $12 a bottle. We use these same fluid for track cars.

Have fun guys.

do u mean for a full set of 4? RDA slotted discs and 4 brake pads?

That will be for the fronts... fairly decent price.

That will be for the fronts... fairly decent price.

so wat does that TP of yours run down the 1/4? bet it beats the hell outta 3rd gen ludes

Nah its a piece of pus compared to my stock TF. I mean, its fast as... wanna buy it?

I can remember trying to race one, i got him to 50 but as soon as he hit second gear all i could see was these twin pea shooter exhausts.

3rd gen lude? man those things got no get up and go.. i munch em all day long in my auto TM.. Just ask notorius he knows a guy with a lude that i munched like no tomorow

Got timeslip?

hes right, u absolutly slaughtered that the prelude lol, he was so pissed off about it to

I reckon there's something wrong with ure car brendan, lol coz even mine gets rid of preludes... lol

ummmm i might be missing something here but a 3gen VTEC lude will easily munch a first gen. my mates got one with zorst and filter and it kills most NA cars on the road..... a non vtec one is a different story

None of the 1st gens from this forum would run a 16 i dont think, a manuals 3rd gen lude runs a 16.6 from factory and i HAVE got time slips to prove that, or dont but know someone who does

actualy i lie brendans probably will scrape one in next time he heads to the strip.

lol i should see if a business would sponsor my car to go turbo. my brother in law did it to quickfit. they give him tyres to fry out at the burnout comps and also tyres for all his cars for cheap as aslong as he sprays quickfit on the side of his burnout car.

im dreaming

Back o topic sorta

Are my rotors warped if the steering wheel doesnt vibrate when braking soft/hard below 60kmph, but u feel the car jerk if u lightly hold the brakes just before comming to a stop.

but when i brake soft/hard above 70kmph the steering wheel vibrates like crazy that its scary.


i know my rotors are slightly warped, but im wondering if theyre the main problem or if my steering joints are ****ed? :(

(i want to get this fixed before easter holiday for my trip, hopefully if i can)

I'm just gonna give you a short answer, someone else can fill in the blanks
take off your wheels, if you feel grooves in the rotor, there warped, if the surface is smooth and flat, there fine..
as i said, short answer

doh, im an idiot, well no, nsw is an idiot

i was told that the holiday was the first week of skool holidays, and in WA thats when easter starts :roll:

so it seems i have 2 extra weeks to fix my car up before the trip :D

doh, im an idiot, well no, nsw is an idiot
there both correct statements. lol
ok, i'll properly answer it now,
yes, if you feel a shuddering, or grip then slide with the brakes, then yes most likely ure discs are warped.
but as my prev posts state, that is the easiest way to tell, and the most accurate. sometimes grippy, or shuddering brakes can be a bad caliper or uneven pads. so, yeah, annoying, but remove ure wheels and feel ure rotors.