I went out to fill up today, and everywhere hasnt got leaded petrol :(

i had some of that unleaded squirt into tank for leaded car **** in the glove box from last time, but my question is how long can i run my car on this unleaded stuff using the squirt in ****?

because im going down south for easter holidays and i dont want the car to die down there
and if i have to, ill go get the TN head, torque wrench, and get the engine fixed myself before easter (since someone said before if i was to get a mechanie to do it, it might take longer)

you can run the car on premium if its been a leaded car, however i wouldnt just start using it all the time. the squirt in stuff, is now the only option unless
if you travel to drummoyne, just over the gladesville bridge, theres a 7/11 at the bottom of the bridge coming from gladesville, they still do leaded!
but, if ure travelling, well ure kinda screwed in a way. best option is the replaced head..... but the squirt stuff works, just annoying to have to use it.

you can run the car on premium if its been a leaded car, however i wouldnt just start using it all the time. the squirt in stuff, is now the only option unless
if you travel to drummoyne, just over the gladesville bridge, theres a 7/11 at the bottom of the bridge coming from gladesville, they still do leaded!
but, if ure travelling, well ure kinda screwed in a way. best option is the replaced head..... but the squirt stuff works, just annoying to have to use it.

do u hafta use it twice on 1 tank of petrol, the instructions confuse me

from a guess, i think it means to add it before u put the petrol in :confused:

(i just realised that i accidently stuck in the whole bottle (the little 50mL i think) and i only put $20 worth of unleaded in :redface: )

I have no clue how to use it, my leaded car can run off premium.
good ol 60's inginuity.

I used to always use LRP up until last year in my previous car.. and I know for a fact that most service stations in my area still have LRP...

Im on the northern beaches/north shore

like im gonna be able to drive my leaded TM with the petrol light on from campbelltown upto the north shore :P

Campbelltown?! i thought you lived near me.
BTW, i was under the assumtion that you still had to use premium with that mix stuff, due to the lower octane of regular.

no idea, car seems fine, but that could just be the left over leaded still :P

anywhere is pretty close since my backyard neighbour is the M5 :D

If your gonna run unleaded, run premo...

My TM has always been leaded - when I got the car, the guy who used to own it put unleaded... but then when I got a reconditioned motor, it was an unleaded one...

I dont think there is much difference between the head of a leaded motor and a unleaded motor anyways... the 2.6 astron was around the time when unleaded was introduced... I've heard many people use unleaded petrol in their leaded 2.6's (whether it's a sigma, scorpion or magna)

Anyone wanna comfirm?

Cheers,
Bill

I can confirm after extensive use unleaded will F up the engine. my sigma is leaded, but how its off the road i just use unleaded, the cars starting to choke on it, so i have the unleaded head ready the day it does die. i'm basically just decomanimating the petrol tank from leaded. not that that makes much diff, just runs richer.

If your gonna run unleaded, run premo...

My TM has always been leaded - when I got the car, the guy who used to own it put unleaded... but then when I got a reconditioned motor, it was an unleaded one...

I dont think there is much difference between the head of a leaded motor and a unleaded motor anyways... the 2.6 astron was around the time when unleaded was introduced... I've heard many people use unleaded petrol in their leaded 2.6's (whether it's a sigma, scorpion or magna)

Anyone wanna comfirm?

Cheers,
Bill
Correct. There's no difference between carby heads, leaded or not. However, Leaded petrol was 96 octane, compared to "91" octane of unleaded.

I can confirm after extensive use unleaded will F up the engine. my sigma is leaded, but how its off the road i just use unleaded, the cars starting to choke on it, so i have the unleaded head ready the day it does die. i'm basically just decomanimating the petrol tank from leaded. not that that makes much diff, just runs richer.

hmm, seems i might be ok, but im pissed at the same time

girlfriends parents dont think the manga will make it down to murramarang, so they gone n said that were taking their new carmy (which is nice n luxury n ****, but so ****ing unfun to drive), without telling me.
the i was telling the gf i might redo the motor before easter holidays, and she go "oh mum n dad dont want us to take the magna, were taking there car"

guess i can stop freaking about money :P

still cant decide if i should replace the head with an unleaded tn myself or get someone to do it. (ive got gaskets ready to go)

don't panic about running straight unleaded or pulp in a motor intended for leaded fuel.
Lead was put in fuel to lubricate the valves and seats in the head. this was needed to stop the valves wearing the seats and over time being pulled back thru the head by the springs.
unleaded motors use harder metals for the valves and seats.
Considering how long it takes for this wear to occur and for the valves to stop sealing it's probably cheaper to replace the head every 100'000km than it is to use flashlube or similar valve saver additive.
When this problem finally occurs it is usually noticable by a loss of compression in one cylinder when a valve burns out. The car is still drivable and will get you home but will run on 3 cylinders.

I have a spare unleaded astron EFI head with cam and rockers for sale (M2 cast). It needs minor servicing

don't panic about running straight unleaded or pulp in a motor intended for leaded fuel.
Lead was put in fuel to lubricate the valves and seats in the head. this was needed to stop the valves wearing the seats and over time being pulled back thru the head by the springs.
unleaded motors use harder metals for the valves and seats.
Considering how long it takes for this wear to occur and for the valves to stop sealing it's probably cheaper to replace the head every 100'000km than it is to use flashlube or similar valve saver additive.
When this problem finally occurs it is usually noticable by a loss of compression in one cylinder when a valve burns out. The car is still drivable and will get you home but will run on 3 cylinders.

I have a spare unleaded astron EFI head with cam and rockers for sale (M2 cast). It needs minor servicing

cool, thats what i was thinking, but wasnt too sure, thanks :)

EFI head is different to carby head? and wtf is the M2 cast? :confused:

When this problem finally occurs it is usually noticable by a loss of compression in one cylinder when a valve burns out. The car is still drivable and will get you home but will run on 3 cylinders.
lol NICE, but would you wanna go thru that :confused:

Considering how long it takes for this wear to occur and for the valves to stop sealing it's probably cheaper to replace the head every 100'000km than it is to use flashlube or similar valve saver additive.
yep, I buy Valvemaster etc and that's like $2.95 a shot or $25 for a bottle with 10 shots. Need to buy PULP too.

You'll probably use about 12,000 litres for that 100,000 km, so that's about 200 tankfuls... $590 worth of lead replacement stuff.

PULP is about 4c dearer than LRP, so that's another $480.

Extra $1070 all up.

i duno if anyones interested but i recod my head oct 03 and used LRP till june 04 and have been using PULP ever since and the car actualy goes better.. the difference between the leaded and unleaded heads is simply the materials used to make the valve train.. the leaded heads needed a lubricant for the valve seats, unleaded fuel obviously not carrying this lubricant brought the need for stronger setups in the cars. if your cars running right i dont see why PULP would do damage, i use shell optimax coz it SEEMS to make the car run its best. ultimate is ok and vortex is just meh yet if u can find an optimax servo use it its good **** just dont blame me if sumthen goes wrong.. lolz mines fine so yeah thats my 2 cents worth

JayDee

EFI head is different to carby head? and wtf is the M2 cast? :confused:

The EFI and carby heads have different inlet port positions i think.
Different model magna astrons came out with different heads with different casting series numbers. From what I can figure they are numbered M1 to M9 and this appears on a few places on the head, the easiest to read is above NO2 exhaust port.

can someone confirm if M1 is the cast number for the head on the carby engines?
M2 to M4 is first gen EFI
M5 to M7 is TR EFI
I haven't seen an M8
M9 is TS EFI

I recently bought another EFI TR that had a replacement GEM Engine in it. It had a M2 cast head on it complete with the first gen cam and non roller rockers. So I replaced it with one from a TS. I have no use for a gen1 head.

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