My TJ Sports is at the mechanic at the moment as the pressure plate sh1t itself the other day and i couldnt get the car into gear properly.

The car has done 85,000km and is 3months out of warranty so mitsu dont want to know about it

The clutch has already been replaced in this car under warranty because of a faulty pressure plate (over 12months though so out of Mitsu warranty). Obviously Mitsu put back in another one of their rubbish pressure plates because its gone again.

Further that, i have got 6 qoutes so far for clutch kits (completly different sources each time) and the cheapest i can find a clutch kit for $800. So basically im looking at over $1000 to change my clutch.

Whats even more annoying is when the mechanic pulled the clutch apart he found that the clutch plate has plenty of meat on it indictating that the problem is not from hard driving or wear and tear.

So who else with a TJ has had to replace their clutch either under warranty or just after for similar reasons? I'm thinking about writing to Mitsu and making them pay for this if i can

P.S. Warning to anyone who's car is under warranty and shudders sometimes when you take off. This is caused by a faulty pressure plate and i'd be getting it fixed PROPERLY under warranty

And with your 1/4 mile time posted of course you were driving the car normally. Sorry dude the pressure plates are designed for normal driving conditions, if you want to drag race your car suggest getting a heavy duty clutch made for that purpose... funny how people expect a part that's designed for one thing want it to do something it wasn't designed for

But an ordinary clutch should be able to handle at least a small amount of abuse?? He has only taken the car to the strip for one night. Even then he didn't abuse the car by doing a huge burnout.

Even then he didn't abuse the car by doing a huge burnout.
Which is pointless unless you've got slicks or a tyre that's designed to get sticker with more heat. In the past it's seemed as though clutch related stuff has been a week point for these cars however I know of several cars that haven't had issues and they're regularily abused.

Hang on, i drive this car for work all day everyday. 84,000kms of the 85,000kms its done have been of normal everyday driving not abuse.

Did you not read the part that said the clutch plate is FINE meaning the car hasnt been driven hard or abused.

"Drag Racing"? My car has been driven down a strag strip 3 times. I drove the car to 6,000rpm 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear 3 times that night, are you telling me thats any different to what other cars cop on the road. The car should be able to take that VERY VERY happily.

So i need to put a heavy duty clutch in to run the car down a drag strip 3 times? Your talking like my car is dedicated to strip work. Its my bloody persoanl car for work. Maybe these cars arent up to it and are made for grandma's and grandpa's, is that what your saying?? Mite go look at an XR6 next time if thats ppl's attitudes towards these sorta things.. Ive got a Holden Combo at work that i drive harder more often than my Magna and its never had a clutch touched in 120,000kms

I sort of agree with gremlin, the stock clutches are pretty avg and cant handle much "spirited driving". When I first bought my VRX I thought the clutch was toast as i couldn't get it in gear properly and it would shudder taking off most of the time but mistu said no and replaced an engine mount. that seemed to have fixed the problem.

I agree funky_freesian_cows that people cant expect a part to last if its not designed to be used hard however if you have a Sports / VRX even Ralliart you would expect these cars to be driven harder so clutches should have been upgraded to cope.

Well its funny you mentioned the engine mounts. Seems ppl are going through these aswell, ive seen that come up a few times, whats with that?

Also does anyone know why Repco, for example, wants the following for clutches:

VX Commodore Clutch Kit: ~$300
TJ Magna Clutch Kit: ~$1000

I realise they're retail prices and both are less at trade price but why the difference?? The Magna clutch kit is a rip off, and, as i said above i tried 6 different places with the best being around $800

I think it has something to do with a magna is a pull type clutch where others are a push type or visa versa I can't remember.

I do agree third gen clutch kits area a TOTAL ripoff! But shmeh, what can you do...

Well considering a genuine clutch is $738 retail and we could do them for $600, $1000 from repco really is a rip off

drag racing shouldnt really be hard on a clutch unless you cant drive!! considering its the same clutch as the ralliart,have any ralliarts had a prob? no prob with my sports gets drivin very hard :D

Yes same clutch as ralliart. And I never had a problem with mine either

Yes same clutch as ralliart. And I never had a problem with mine either

good to hear seen as its now in the family :bowrofl:

good to hear seen as its now in the family :bowrofl:

Ha just kidding ya blew 5 clutches, 7 engine mounts had the engine rebuilt seeing if it would rev as hard as a rotary...just didn't like 10,000RPM and well the flogged it off to a cane toad from Queensland... :shifty: :bowrofl:

Ha good to see it went to someone in the forum and glad ya happy with it. :bouncin:

Picked the car up this avo :doubt:

My mechanic said Mitsu have a weird design clutch in them. Something to do with it being a Push style clutch, i dunno what that means

He cannot understand why they changed the design as its not an improved but the exact opposite. He said its a sh1thouse clutch design and he said the flywheel design is crap to. One of the worst clutch setups his seen in his many years of being a mechanic.

I asked him if its going to cause me any further problems and he said if i dont drive it reasonably softly then more than likely ill have more problems with the clutch again before its worn out due to normal wear and tear

When you talk about the car shuddering, do you mean when the clutch is full engaged and you take off?

Also funky cows, are syncros covered by warranty?

I mean im sitting at the lights for example, i put the car in first and start letting the clutch out and the car start shuddering and continues until i let the clutch right out. Happens like twice a month or so

Hmm mine does that occasionally. Might have to get mitsu to look at it.
I think mines almost out of warranty. its 3 years or 100,000 kms isnt it?
Mines at 93 thou kms.

Yeah so i'd be getting it looked at now mate otherwise you'll have a bill like i paid this avo..
$1400

Trouble is when i showed Mitsu my car with the same problem, when it was still under warranty, the bloke from service drove the car for about 15mins and of course it didnt happen for him. He said, i know what your talking about, its usually a dodgy pressure plate in these causing it but your car seems fine so we can't fix something that works fine

Yes same clutch as ralliart. And I never had a problem with mine either

Hey Keith,
Have you heard of problems with the pressure plates in the magna's before?

Mine does this shuddering and is hard to get into gear occasionally and my car has never seen the track or been used for burnouts etc, it's my dream car and gets treated that way!

When I last had it in for a service the mitsu mechanics couldn't fault it, probably because i'd just driven it for 45-minutes up the freeway to get it to them so it was warm. So they just replaced the transmission oil and said to keep an eye on it but it's still happening...

yeah. my clutch slipped bad for a while, got it fixed though, cost an arm and a leg.

the clutch kits are about 800 i think plus u have to pay half a day's labour.

maybe u should think of a semi-ceramic type clutch? maybe a couple of hundred more but will withstand alot more

anyways, just don't let anyone drive your car who doesn't know how to (ie. slipps it too much)

later :cool:

My TJ Sports is at the mechanic at the moment as the pressure plate sh1t itself the other day and i couldnt get the car into gear properly.

The car has done 85,000km and is 3months out of warranty so mitsu dont want to know about it

The clutch has already been replaced in this car under warranty because of a faulty pressure plate (over 12months though so out of Mitsu warranty). Obviously Mitsu put back in another one of their rubbish pressure plates because its gone again.

Further that, i have got 6 qoutes so far for clutch kits (completly different sources each time) and the cheapest i can find a clutch kit for $800. So basically im looking at over $1000 to change my clutch.

Whats even more annoying is when the mechanic pulled the clutch apart he found that the clutch plate has plenty of meat on it indictating that the problem is not from hard driving or wear and tear.

So who else with a TJ has had to replace their clutch either under warranty or just after for similar reasons? I'm thinking about writing to Mitsu and making them pay for this if i can

P.S. Warning to anyone who's car is under warranty and shudders sometimes when you take off. This is caused by a faulty pressure plate and i'd be getting it fixed PROPERLY under warranty Maybe u just Got a Lemon of a Clutch,it happens,unfortunately :cry:

This is from the thread in the Philcom Rally section:


Daikin standard replacement clutch for TN Magna $210
Daikin Standard replacement clubch for TH 3L magna $500
Daikin Standard replacement clubch for TH 3.5L magna $630
both I don't recommend for most people on this forum.

Daikin heavy duty organic clutch for TH magna $665
this is ok, I am yet to find out if it comes with pressure plate and bearing.

I mean im sitting at the lights for example, i put the car in first and start letting the clutch out and the car start shuddering and continues until i let the clutch right out. Happens like twice a month or so

Don't be fooled, I have a mate who is a mechanic for mitsu who said he has seen this shuddering before and everytime it was on a magna with aftermarket extractors (Ralliarts aswell), something to do with the air/fuel mix not being right on cold-start he reckons, but to someone who was none the wiser it would deffinately look and feel every bit like a clutch issue!

To test the issue they'd keep that car in the workshop overnight and take it for a drive first thing in the morning. 9/10 the problem would happen for them when they kept the car overnight but not if the car was brought to them and test driven same day - once it had allready been warmed up.

Apparently a quick tune & re-map of the air/fuel mix-ratios is all that was needed to fix the issue in each of these cases.

my clutch only lasted 30,000 so i put a exedy HD semi ceramic with a billet steal fly wheel now i dont have any probs and the only time i drive my magna i cane it big time.the clutch cost me $1000 fitted the fly wheel was $1200 fitted but toke 3 months to make

Don't be fooled, I have a mate who is a mechanic for mitsu who said he has seen this shuddering before and everytime it was on a magna with aftermarket extractors

that's interesting.. mine's done it a bit of late, but only first thing in the morning and I've only really noticed it in the last month or so which is coincidentally about how long I've had my extractors :)

Don't be fooled, I have a mate who is a mechanic for mitsu who said he has seen this shuddering before and everytime it was on a magna with aftermarket extractors (Ralliarts aswell), something to do with the air/fuel mix not being right on cold-start he reckons, but to someone who was none the wiser it would deffinately look and feel every bit like a clutch issue!
Well, my car does this from time to time. Usually cold mornings and it's only recently that I've had some headers fitted. Fixing the broken engine mount helped and I'm wondering if there's another that's cracked too.

Direct ckutches in brisbane want about $550 for a clutch coventry are about the same
nicks are around that aswell repcos retail is $899, i got mine off them for $450

and its all todo with them being unique to the 3rd gen magnas and manuals not being that popular

Don't be fooled, I have a mate who is a mechanic for mitsu who said he has seen this shuddering before and everytime it was on a magna with aftermarket extractors (Ralliarts aswell), something to do with the air/fuel mix not being right on cold-start he reckons, but to someone who was none the wiser it would deffinately look and feel every bit like a clutch issue!

To test the issue they'd keep that car in the workshop overnight and take it for a drive first thing in the morning. 9/10 the problem would happen for them when they kept the car overnight but not if the car was brought to them and test driven same day - once it had allready been warmed up.

Apparently a quick tune & re-map of the air/fuel mix-ratios is all that was needed to fix the issue in each of these cases.

I dont have extractors mate, so, forget that idea!!

Sorry!

I dont have extractors mate, so, forget that idea!!

Sorry!
I had the same problem ... and I don't have extractors. Also mines the 3.0 litre.

I think you will find it is because the clutch is "cold" first thing in the morning and "grabs".

Yes a pull type clutch costs more ... why did they choose it? F$%k knows.

Yeah my mechanic can't understand why they used it either.

The older magna's didnt have clutch troubles, why change a good thing? Stupid car manufacturers

Just gave the car a bit of stick for the first time since the new clutch

Holy crap it hooks up heaps harder!!!

Can't wait to see if it helps much with my time on the 30th March @ WSID

man i put a xtreme heavy duty and a full button clutch (puck style - has 5 pucks) in the magna (did the work myself of course) the clutch retails about 760 i think by memory (i paid sfa for it) but it is heaps better than the daikin standard unit and can cherp 4th gear at 130 (thats how i blew diff) at no slip at all but it has a clamp load of approx 1200 i think where the factory is about 700 pedals slightly heavier but soon as the pedal is out thats it your off good fun i recommend these to any one with a manual magna.

the only side affect is that it kills your flywheel but i am going aluminium flywheel which are available

Wow, talk about bringing a old thread back !!

Question is what other clutches other thanthe big expensive Exedy heavy duty clutches can we use in a 3rd GEN ?

I have heard that a 380 or EVO8 clutch goes straight in at a fraction of the cost of a EXEDY one so would this be a good option and do they fit ?

Wow, talk about bringing a old thread back !!

Question is what other clutches other thanthe big expensive Exedy heavy duty clutches can we use in a 3rd GEN ?

I have heard that a 380 or EVO8 clutch goes straight in at a fraction of the cost of a EXEDY one so would this be a good option and do they fit ?

Exedy HD off megatron when I bought one was $700. Hardly expensive in the scheme of clutches!

Who is running an EVO clutch and what the differants to an Magna clutch..????? Do EVO clutches go straight into a magna.?? Im going to be looking at a new clutch for mine shortly and wont be getting another carbon fibre one off Extreme in SA. The think is getting low in the life and ive put 5000kms on the car since the engine was built and clutch was put in. Ive seen some EVO clutches hold some serious power.. Are they hard for driving though. As you know fwd and heavy clutches suck.

Give Auto Clutch a call in Osbourne Park, WA ego.... I believe Chris (380ftw) has used Evo packing on his 380 clutch... apparently this guy is the ducks nuts of clutch people, but I have not had a good experience with him, came across like a tool.

Disciple, were you quoting $700 for an Exedy EVO HD clutch or a magna one? As I paid $435 for a excedy HD just last week....

The older magna's didnt have clutch troubles, why change a good thing?


I can 't agree with this. The second gen manual clutch had problems when you went to replace a worn out clutch.

You needed to change the throwout lever and ball pivot for new ones or shim the old ball pivot up by 2 to 4 mm otherwise the new clutch gave all sorts of problems. The design was changed to avoid this problem, I guess.

A third gen clutch replacement (original for original) should be simpler, but if you are going to mix and match you can run into problems. lol

Max, why even bring up a second gen clutch when clearly this is a third gen question, hell, the old hemi clutches were awesome so lets talk about these while we are here

Evo clutch will go in, you have to machine the step into the flywheel OR put the disk in back to front which is not recommended. Now, if you were to use a 380 flywheel there is no need for this to be done, afaik the disk for the 380 and the evo is pretty much the same as is the 240mm disk used wrongly on some magan's suppled by exedy until recently when they changed their catalogue.

Extreme, well when they think there is TK magna and that all 3.5 use a 240mm disk, if the catalogue is wrong then well how good is the product.

Back to the topic of third gen std clutches, there is nothing wrong with them in a std application, when you start getting higher demand you then need to upgrade. A std Exedy kit is about 20% heavier clamp over the std OEM, both use the Daiken clutch disk.

Ego, if you are wanting serious clamping, I would suggest the 380 flywheel, just under 300 bucks with the evo kit, I am 99% sure that it will go on no worries. If yo have a custom flywheel which I have no doubt you do lol, make sure that your issue is not the rivets already hitting the flywheel thus reducing the grab under load, this would also account for some of your issue with the shudder etc you had in SA

I had a standard clutch put in 20km ago on my TH manual magna. Thrash the *** out of it no dramas so far still chirps nicely dont know hay might be to do with installing

ok just to through a spanner in the works! ive had my Tj exec for eight years bought it with 50,000 kms. i USED TO do alot of back street racing for 4 years, burnouts the works. the last 4 years ive been married and have 2 kids so its now just the daily commuter. the car now has 231,500kms STILL ON THE FACTORY ORIGINAL CLUTCH and drives perfect, can still tow car trailers ect. i the 8 years the only common part replaced was 3 top right engine mounts.. (expected) So i cant fault the factory clutches!!

Who is running an EVO clutch and what the differants to an Magna clutch..????? Do EVO clutches go straight into a magna.?? Im going to be looking at a new clutch for mine shortly and wont be getting another carbon fibre one off Extreme in SA. The think is getting low in the life and ive put 5000kms on the car since the engine was built and clutch was put in. Ive seen some EVO clutches hold some serious power.. Are they hard for driving though. As you know fwd and heavy clutches suck.

Ezyboy has an evo clutch in his red shitter

jesus..old thread

i created this thread before id even pulled a gearbox out of magna myself.. didnt have much idea what i was talking about.. was trusting a mechanics word who i think was having me on...

now that i think back about the issue i was having and knowing a bit more about these cars and car in general i do not think there was anything wrong with my clutch itself.. i reckon it was hydraulic related.... meh, that cars long gone now..

anything ive said 6 years ago in this thread, disregard from me

im currently running a stock evo9 clutch in my TH.. its great...