Hey

Basically ATM Im running 1 x Alpine MRP-T406 (120wx1 bridged @ 4ohms) into my 12" sub, this is powered by a 8gauge pwr lead from the battery (with inline fuse). I have organised to buy a set of decent splits Vibe SA-K60's(90wrms cont) to replace the OEM co-ax's in my 98 TF Magna and a Alpine MRV-F302 (120wx2 bridged @ 4ohms).

What I need advice on is when I install the new amp, will the 8 gauge be enough to supply the pwr needed to both amps or am I going to have to run 4 gauge to a dist block then 8 gauge to each amp from there? I would prefer to keep the existing 8 gauge run this into a dist block then run dual 4 gauges to the amps is this possible?

Any assistance appreciated as I'm new to this....and damn its fun.

Luke

best to be safe and run 4' into dist. block then do the rest like you said.last thing you want is to root the system up due to wiring.one of the most important parts of the system

I agree. Luke, while you'ld be fine with the amount of current draw you have, just for out and out safety it is better to go a 4AWG run into distro etc champ. :)

OK kewl, so what rating should I use as the fuse, according to some sight for the current Im using it should be 120 or so Amps, does this sound right? Any idea on how I can work out the correct amp to use?

Thanks again for the advice.
Luke

if your amps are gonna be pulling 120 just go to jay car and buy a 100amp circuit breaker.

my system draws over 140 and i have a 100amp circuit breaker and it has never gone into fail

This whole current draw thing is sorta only theoretical...like, its only useful as a guideline for wire sizes, fuses etc. I doubt your system would be drawing anywhere near 100A under normal conditions :P

Yeah, 4ga-distro-8ga to amps. Better safe than sorry, I have a bad habit of using oversized ground cables.

Luke, if you're system has 360 watts continous (1 x 120 plus 2 x 120) then in theory your system should drain in the vercinity of 26.27 amperes @ 13.7 volts. :)

Like I said, you don't NEED 4AWG right at this point in time but if you're planning on installing a serious pair of amps (eg two channel and mono-block) you might need more current flow ability. :)

If you enjoy car audio. spend big now and save urself upgrading later on.

You will upgrade in a year from whatever you buy now esp if you're trying to find the best deals you can now.

Just the way it is.

Spend money and do it right the first time. :)

Peace

Tim

Thx Marty and S_tim_ulate, as suggested better to do it right the first time, have decided to run 4awg as I am planning on upgrading to a monoblock alpine amp to run the sub asap as its only getting 120w and can handle 250w easy.

So I'll be in touch after I get the vibe's to get a Dynomat spkr kit and a price on a Alpine MRP-350 monoblock.

Thanks for all the assistance guys.
Luke

No problems. :)

We'll have words later about that Alpine monoblock too. ;)

Marty, Alpine V power, not the best choice of monoblock?

In your opinion would it be best to use a dynamat Extreme spkr kit or the Dynaxorb? Or would there be much benefit in using both with the Vibes?

Luke

I'll address the amplifier issue first.

Alpine amplifiers are well designed and constructed from quality materials but tend to lack serious power. We have found that often for a similar price there are better around.

Some examples (in no particular order) are:

ARC Audio
Tru-Technology
Zapco
Boston
Brax
U-Dimension
Milbert
Butler
Phass

Just to mention a few. Remember the important specs (http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/fhrxstudios/faq.asp#21) to check when in the market for an amplifier.

Kewl Kewl, well Ill be coming to you, to get whatever I get so you can suggest something to suit at the time. ;)

Luke

Now the subject of sound deadening, I always advocate the use of both inner and outer deadening and diffuser panels. :)

See here for examples of what I mean. (http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/fhrxstudios/photogallery_int.asp#interest4) :D

Kewl Kewl, well Ill be coming to you, to get whatever I get so you can suggest something to suit at the time. ;)

Luke

No problems at all but remember; don't just take my word for it. Do plenty of research and this will ensure you always end up with the best equipment for your budget in the end. :)

Ok, now remembering im on a poor mans budget here,
I'm looking at doing the spkr kit first and then a few mths down the track installing the Dynaxorb pads and a set of extreme door kits. Its just funding, all work has to be done in stages.

First install splits with spkr kits, new amp and rewire whole system as discussed.
2nd dynomat doors and bootlid. Install new monoblock for sub.
Finally upgrade deck to something decent, with 4v preouts.

Luke

Nothing at all wrong with that method champ. Most of us all build our systems in stages. :D

I just used cheaper acoustic tiles behind my drivers. These can be purchased from Jaycar etc for $7 a pop.

These do the trick for me.