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Meph
28-03-2005, 07:36 PM
what are they like? because ive replaced mine and although you can really feel the "friction point" or whatever you call it, i think it may still be dragging.

When i changed it i looked at the ball and pivot thing and it was ok, no wear. I put a bit of a spacer in so that when the arm is pushed all the way, the release bearing comes right up to the end of its guide, i thought any further then it would over push the pressure plate and may result in damage. Anyhoo...

When you put your foot on the clutch it gets to the friction point and its real hard to push it past there, but it feels like its releasing. Is it supposed to be that hard when first new? And these are supposed to have the friction point fairly close to the floor right? it feels like it was only like 3 or so inches, havent measured or anything.

its just that ive never driven with a brand new clutch before, i hope my cars gonna be ok, i dont wanna have to pull the box out again to put a bigger spacer in the pivot joint there, nah... stuff that.

nivram13
29-03-2005, 05:20 AM
How easy was it to replace the clutch? Did you have to take the whole gear box out?

sensible
29-03-2005, 08:55 AM
How big was the spacer you placed in there?

Before I did my clutch, the last little bit of pedal travel would be incredibly hard, I think that as the pivot wears the travel on the release fork is reduced, creating this hard spot.

After replacing the clutch/pressure plate and adding in a 2mm spacer under the pivot, the clutch feels smooth and light all the way through the travel, and I don't have to push it to the carpet anymore..

Have you tried bleeding your lines, flushing it right through with new fluid?

Meph
29-03-2005, 01:27 PM
nivram, wasnt too hard, yes the box has to come out, and putting the box back in was a 2 man job definitely.

sensible, i put a tiny spacer in, just so the thrust bearing would travel to the end of the guide, i thought a 2mm would be too long. Well i reckon i could get a torch and a few tools and i could take off the slave cylinder and working through that little access port that the clutch fork comes through, i think i may be able to put a 2mm spacer in the pivot, i didnt think it was thast worn.

There must be a reason why that hole is so big :P not looking forward too it, but wwwwaaaayyy too much stuffing around pulling it all out again.

sensible
29-03-2005, 01:54 PM
The PBR kit came with a sheet - it suggested that I put in a 2mm spacer.. Also when I took my flywheel to get machined, they suggested/told me to put a 2mm spacer in..

I'm pretty sure that's why my clutch was toast, just not enough leverage on the release fork, which meant that I needed to push the pedal through the floor (figuratively) to fully release the pressure plate. It now disengages about 2cm from where it was (only just, foot to the floor with superman strength) disengaging. If that's what you're experiencing, then I'd be putting in a bigger spacer..

I would be bleeding the hydrolic system first, just because that's easier than taking the box out :)

If you need to take the box out, have a look at the condition of your flywheel, if it's got burn/oil marks on it or little heat stress cracks, then get it re-ground now (while the box is out for the 2nd time)..

turbo_charade
29-03-2005, 01:57 PM
take the spacer out, thats your problem. the reason the old clutch had a long or short throw was because it had a worn down clutch disc. 1mm of clutch disk is around 7mm at the clutch fulcrum.