has any one ever replaced the outer joint on their cvs

I just had my cv boots replaced by recommendation of Ultratune to the cost of around $320, because of a clicking sound on full lock. A week later i still have a similiar, though less distinct sound from the front end. Should Ultratune have replaced the whole CV joint itself, instead of just the boots?

yeah i replaced my left CV joints.. it was a fun experience... hardest bit it removing the actual joints :S

i think they should have replaced the hole joints since you probablky drove witht the joints clicking for a while and it has damged the joints (whitch makes the click)
replace the hole thing.. and it wont click.

i bought my part throu mitsubishi and put them in my self but its a hard job..
they have a clip on the inside of the joint so when you push them in they click in to place :S and is hard to remove..

That's one job where i was more than happy to pay some one else for the pleasure. I had it done by a CV rebuilding place. The guy also had his race car there and was interested in his work.
edit It was my TP and they never made a noise again.

Depending on the vehicle model the niggly bits may change but the principal is the same on all magna/veradas/colts ect. The inner joint is held on by a circlips. The first is usually located around the inside of the housing. This can bet taken off quite easily with a sharp instrament. The second is located on the outer side of the race. (Away from the shaft).
Unfortunatly the outer joint is a real pain to get off. I used to have a hydraulic puller and special adapters to pull the races of the shaft after smashing off the cage. This normally means that the end of the shaft has to be re welded and the splines and groove ground back in. Easy if you know how but better left to the pros. Some places grind grooves into the shaft to get a grip but to me this has always been a very stupid way to do it as it will weaken the shaft.
If you take a look at the housing and race you will see wear around half way down, on the cage you will also see wear. Depending on if the joint has been low on oil and has lots ok K's on the clock the wear will vary. This is what causes the clicking as the ball bearings are now loose.
The best way to have the joints repaired is to get a new outer cage and possibly race. The inner can be repaird most of the time with a special emery grinding tool. Then fit oversize balls. +1, +2 or sometomes +3 thou. Putting them together is way easier than getting the buggers appart. Make sure that everything is cleaned properly and then grease them up. We used to use a gold coloured agricultural Caltex grease. Don't use too much as you will split the boots when it gets hot and under load. Don't use too little or the joints may overheat.
And lastly try to get good boots, there are a few that are quite hard and these are prone to splitting (Some other makes are hard by design which is ok) Using cable ties is a no no as they just wont hold thier grip for long. There are special clips for this and these should not be scrimped on. All in all I would take it somewhere that specialises in this type of thing as some places have little or no knowledge on the proper proceedure and you mostly get a much better job by specialists. In SA the only place I go to and reccomend is Stable Driveshafts at Ween Road Pooraka. They have the equipment and know what to do.
Oh and yeah some of the later models use roller bearings on the inner joint so dont loose any of the pins (The come apart relativly easy for cleaning)

i just hammered a woodern block and a hammer, rotating to whaft in a vice after each stroke with the hammer, A problem that often occurs is the circlip in the outer joint becomes seized given that one of mine had done 187000 kms i could understand if it had gotten realy comfy where it was. That i took to a guy i know with a welder adn he just blew it apart.

all is good though its all back together and running smooooth.


aside from my sticky valve :cry:

LOL yeah the outer circlip can be a pain even when it is not siezed. I used to rebuild an average of 150 magna shafts a week (Before we got the Mitsi contract then it was a lot more) Out of that 150 maybe five would come off with no damage, which sucked when I had all the tools and knew the damm things inside out. I only just got my KR back as it had the valve stem problem, turned out the heads needed reconditioning, almost all the water system needed replacing because of corrosion. Mitsi wanted $400 for the gaskets alone and over two hundred for the water pump. I had it done by a friends father who works on the engines at Tonsly park, he does it on his days off and I still havent recieved the bill yet, at least it will be much cheaper than what Mitsi was going yo charge. Oh well at least I don't have a smoke screen any more and now I can concentrate on getting the thing back into good condition