OK so now i have my new ride, and i'm geting the rear window replaced under warranty, apparantly mine is not set properly and squeks a bit, like the TJ series did in some cases.

I have also notice that the gears especially 1-2 when cold, almost crunches. Well it's hard to describe, if i do a slow change below 3000 rpm you can almost feel the gears engage and clunck a bit in the cabin, the mitsubishi dealer was trying to tell me it's just the selector going through the gate, but the magna has no gates its a cable linked system. The same happens from 2-3 not as bad. As the car gets hot it seams a little better. The starange thing is that when you slam it through the gears it's fine, no noise. It's hard to say wherther the noise comes form the gearbox or what, and i'm not to sure that i can hear it outside. I have taken the center console off to see if there was anything wrong with the gearstick side of it but it all seamed fine, not much slack just nice, not to tight not to loose. It only happens on the upshift not downshift, normally selectors let go first on the downshift side.

So what can it be, can a gearbox be shaged after 30000 km's. What do i tell the dealer and get it fixed. I hate smartass dealers who think that a mechanical engineer knows knothing.

I've got the same with mine, except it happens from 1-2 and 2-1 even when hot. Its annoying the ****ing **** out of me. The gearbox in my previous 00' model lancer felt nicer than mine does atm.
I get the crunch with slow and quick gear shifts. Its frustrating for a car thats only just over 2 years old.

Mine is a bit slow from 1-2 and sometimes 2-3 in the mornings, but is fine after its warmed up (apart from my clutch which is worn out, but thats my fault).

I would probably say the cables needs some adjustments (calibration). I read a howto somewhere on the net but i can't remember where it was.

My TH does the same. 1-2 goes "zzzzclunk." Rip through and it's fine. Seems to be really common.

There's talk that the 3.5 didn't comeout in manual until TH because the gearbox wasn't strong enough. Don't know if this is right, but I had a TE manual 3.0 when they first came out in '96: did 240,000 K's and never had this problem.

It was a company car too, so it wasn't treated too kindly! :badgrin: Maybe TE/TF manual owners could verify this. Ralliarts?

Don't take this the wrong way, but it's good to hear that TLs do it too!! :D

EDIT: 500 posts!! *struts around the forum with "I'm a postw h o r e" T-shirt on*

thanks guys

i willl talk to mitsubishi and see what can be done about this. i'm downloading the manual on cd for this car of the web there might be something there on how to calibrate the cables.

OHH dam it looks like i'm gona have to slam through gears arlly style. LOL

I've always had this issue with my Ralliart, improved slightly the last time i demanded that my Mitsu dealer change the gearbox oil.

My quess is that the oil is taking way to long to get up to temperature, I tested this a couple of morning this week by letting my car run in the drive-way for about 10-minutes to get it up to temperature (half-way on temp gauge) before driving it... it seemed to be MUCH better again, i'd be ineterested to see if others experience the same when they try this?

My next plan of attack for this problem is to replace the VMX80 oil which improved the problem with some Redline stuff which is known to be damn good oil! and see how that goes.

Your not alone though mate, this is a very common problem! Worst part about it is that 9/10 you have to drive your car to the dealer which means the car is warm by the time they get it and they can't find anything wrong. Perhaps try leaving it overnight with them, have them drive it first thing in the morning and see what they think then.

yeah well the dealers said that once the new window is in they they will keep the car overnight and then have a look at it for me. I think its really sad that such small details letd down the reputation of other wise a great car.

OK so now i have my new ride, and i'm geting the rear window replaced under warranty, apparantly mine is not set properly and squeks a bit, like the TJ series did in some cases.

I have also notice that the gears especially 1-2 when cold, almost crunches. Well it's hard to describe, if i do a slow change below 3000 rpm you can almost feel the gears engage and clunck a bit in the cabin, the mitsubishi dealer was trying to tell me it's just the selector going through the gate, but the magna has no gates its a cable linked system. The same happens from 2-3 not as bad. As the car gets hot it seams a little better. The starange thing is that when you slam it through the gears it's fine, no noise. It's hard to say wherther the noise comes form the gearbox or what, and i'm not to sure that i can hear it outside. I have taken the center console off to see if there was anything wrong with the gearstick side of it but it all seamed fine, not much slack just nice, not to tight not to loose. It only happens on the upshift not downshift, normally selectors let go first on the downshift side.

So what can it be, can a gearbox be shaged after 30000 km's. What do i tell the dealer and get it fixed. I hate smartass dealers who think that a mechanical engineer knows knothing.
Did you buy it from dj motors, does it have a sports decal on the side of the rear doors cause i testdrove a tl with about40000 kays and it crunch so ileft it alone, even though it still had a warranty.

I've always had this issue with my Ralliart, improved slightly the last time i demanded that my Mitsu dealer change the gearbox oil.

My quess is that the oil is taking way to long to get up to temperature, I tested this a couple of morning this week by letting my car run in the drive-way for about 10-minutes to get it up to temperature (half-way on temp gauge) before driving it... it seemed to be MUCH better again, i'd be ineterested to see if others experience the same when they try this?

My next plan of attack for this problem is to replace the VMX80 oil which improved the problem with some Redline stuff which is known to be damn good oil! and see how that goes.

Your not alone though mate, this is a very common problem! Worst part about it is that 9/10 you have to drive your car to the dealer which means the car is warm by the time they get it and they can't find anything wrong. Perhaps try leaving it overnight with them, have them drive it first thing in the morning and see what they think then.
ADD SOME AUTO TRANS OIL THAT WORKS REALLY GOOD, AFTER SERVEL FIXES THE MITSU DEALER WILL DO IT.

I've always had this issue with my Ralliart, improved slightly the last time i demanded that my Mitsu dealer change the gearbox oil.

My quess is that the oil is taking way to long to get up to temperature, I tested this a couple of morning this week by letting my car run in the drive-way for about 10-minutes to get it up to temperature (half-way on temp gauge) before driving it... it seemed to be MUCH better again, i'd be ineterested to see if others experience the same when they try this?

My next plan of attack for this problem is to replace the VMX80 oil which improved the problem with some Redline stuff which is known to be damn good oil! and see how that goes.

Your not alone though mate, this is a very common problem! Worst part about it is that 9/10 you have to drive your car to the dealer which means the car is warm by the time they get it and they can't find anything wrong. Perhaps try leaving it overnight with them, have them drive it first thing in the morning and see what they think then.

My old manual Rover V8 used to do this and it was common to those as a model as well - the cure was Valvoline's reverse-viscosity gearbox oil - its thinner when cold and thicker when hot. Ask around for it at Repco or wherever - I'm not entirely sure now of its name but I think its called Durablend.

DO NOT put auto trans fluid in your gearbox!!!
Mitsubishi reccommend using Castrol Syntrans B in these cases...ask the dealer...they should stock it.

Did you buy it from dj motors, does it have a sports decal on the side of the rear doors cause i testdrove a tl with about40000 kays and it crunch so ileft it alone, even though it still had a warranty.

Nope i broght it form DJ in lonny, cos they were $4000 cheaper for a car with less kilometers and other features. Yeah i drove that one as well, that is how i got onto the magan thing. It too crunched and so did another one i drove recently. I will hustle the dealer to get onto it.

Thanks guys very much appriciated.