Sorry for crap pix... cameraphone!

Have put the subs into the box. Purchased a pre-fab 2x12" box that was carpeted.

trimmed the excess carpet from around the hole in the box. Then dropped in the sub and cut the carpet around the frame of the basket, then took the driver out and peeled away the carpet to help with an airtight seal. (Pic 1)

Subs back in, mark holes and remove. Drilled holes for the screws (12ga x 40mm dome heads) with a 3mm wood drill bit.

I also ran a bead of acid-free silastic type silicone to help with the sealing. After having a box that didn't seal around the frame properly, I was taking no chances. Make sure if you do the same, it is acid free and safe to use on metal (I used a roofing formulation) otherwise it will probably rust.

Then I connected the drivers (any which way at this stage, can fix polarity later), dropped the drivers in, screwed them in snug, then tightened them right up. Cleaned up the little bits of silastic that squeezed out, and that was it. (pic 2)

Once it was left for about 3 hours in semi-shade to let the silastic cure, I unscrewed the handles and terminals (pre-fab style) and let the internal space of the box air out.

Hit the terminals with a 9v battery to check polarity. Had one wrong, just swapped the wires connected to the terminals on that side. Checked with battery again and came up correct.

Screwed the handles and terminals back in and then you have finished result.
I don't think I did a bad job. Just need to blacken the screw heads now.

The box is now in the car, but unfortunately I only have enough amp to get one sub going. The other side is running as a passive cone. Not hammering them yet, just trying to break the cones and spiders in a little. The box is also too wide to fit between the struts, so we will see what we can do about that later.

JL amp will be coming soon to power both speakers. Thanks Megatron!

So nobody cares then??

Nice work!! Hope they sound as good as they look!
Is the box the correct spec for the subs?
I take it because you went to so much trouble to seal them, that the box is sealed, not ported?

Should look sweet as in my boot!! lol

Pete

sweet :D

Thanks Poita, Gerard.... nice to see someone was reading it.

Yes, it is a 30 litre sealed box..... more power handling and punchy.
JBL recommend either a 1"x1"x1" box (29.something litres) or a 45 litre ported box at around 45Hz.... I didn't take much notice of the ported figures.
Drivers are JBL GT4-12s, Rated 300W RMS. To be powered by a JL 500.1 monoblock once it arrives.

It's just unfortunate that is doesn't fit betweem the strut towers of my TF.....

Doof is as good as the single Sony 12", and with the amp at half the power, and one of the drivers passive (ie not hooked up to amp).

looks good

Thanks Alan... will look and sound heaps better once I get the dollars to you and you get the amp to me.

It's got alot of bass in reserve, can't wait to get the monoblock in, then slowly start turning up the wick.

BTW, what's the best way to 'break in' the speakers. I usually just start off at a fairly low gain on the amp, and increase it about once a week until I get a bit above the level I am after, then back everything off a tad.

Is that the right way to go, or is there another way?

thats what i normally do

or i run it in for 5 hours slowly adjusting the gains every hr

It was an open question that one.... so anyone else with ideas on breaking in subs, please let me know what you do...

I might make a Bass Mechanik CD at home with Cool Edit Pro, run through every frequency from 10-150Hz in 0.1Hz increments, each 20 secs duration, and then do the 'turn it up every cycle' trick....