finaly got around to rippin a weber off spent a good hr or so cleaning it. got myself a redline carby adaptor all shall be ready to go soon after i rebuild it and sort out a few bits.

funily enuff the studs from the redline carby are too short its like they forgot to take into account the extra mm due to the adaptor lol, oh well ill hav to buy longer 8mm studs.

will let everyone know how it goes!

some pics included. from the pix it looks like the adaptor "doesnt line up" cuz of the angle i took the photo at but it does.

edit: oh i need to get creative in modin it for the magnas TPS and for the air con

What size webber is it?

i dont think its a 36/36, i measured both throttle plates and they both are 34. its off a xf falcon.

edit: venturi sizes are 27/29 which makes the carbs airflow 280cfm. doin some calculations the astron 2.6lt's airflow demand is 270cfm (thats @100% efficency) but the engine will run about (stock) close to 80% efficency. so thats 216cfm which the engine will require to "breathe" properly. the carby will suit it fine.

just convert to manual, lol i looked at the tps convert, shouldnt be to hard with a tp's tps, the other ure better off making a mod somewere else eg the pedal

i got lucky with my carby, bought it off ebay from a carby specialist in the eastern states who sells fully reconditioned carbys's. paid about $120 for it : ) good as brand new. its running the jets it came with though, so its quite rich when the secondarys kick in.

Hey Subby,

What's the Redline part # for the plate you got, and how much did it cost? Where would one go to get this type of thing in Melbourne?

Took the carb off this morning - needs a kit/clean - and I'm thinking that this might be a good time to price up a weber conversion. If it works out around the same for the kit vs conversion, then I'll be doing the conversion..


Cheers

i finished cleanin my carb more looks very clean now. ill grab a rebuild kit this week and rebuild it. i most likely will change the jets as well.

the carby adaptor from redline cost me $37 from autobarn. they more than likely will not hav it in stock but can be ordered (mine took 1 day). part number is 10-112 the guy can get the book out to check anyway.

lookin at the weber i see it has a diaphram for the air con so i dont need to worry about that. just mukin about with a TPS.

i took out the jets to see what they were;

primary air = 160
primary fuel = 135

secondary air = 180
secondary fuel = 220


not sure about the "idle" jets there were 2 jets opposite both the main air jets and im guessing their the idle ones, they were;

70/60


i know idle ones must be changed, the primary air/fuel looks ok, but deff need to change the secondary fuel.

50/55 idle is std 250 motor jets

why did you buy a AS NEW carbi if only to rebuild it? they are give aways in bad condition and rebuild for 27 dollars

yeh TC i think u got the post mixed up TM-Terror got a "as new" recoed weber for his car and he didnt mention nuffin about rebuildin it. i however got one from the wreckers which i will be rebuildin.

as for the idle jets im holdin them in my hand they must not be standard then they deff say 70 and the other 60.

wack
i suggest around the 45/50 at the highest
need a AF meter to test that **** tho

good luck getting smaller idle jets. weber have gone broke and bin taken over. all weber parts are rare now, including jets. ive bin waiting 1 month + for my idle jets.

the jets u took out are exactly wat i had. i now have a 127 primary fuel, a 160 primary air, a 160 secondary fuel and 160 secondary air. we are yet to get the AF meter onto it but it feels pretty good

good luck getting smaller idle jets. weber have gone broke and bin taken over. all weber parts are rare now, including jets. ive bin waiting 1 month + for my idle jets.

Is this something that a Carby shop could do for you? I'm thinking that they could fill and re-drill the jets quite easily..

How much do jets cost btw?

160 for secondary air? the stock one from the webber was 180 (it looked like 160) but i looked very closely its 180. so you recomend change that to 160 as well? i will look around to see if i can find jets if not i dont see why they cant be filled (ie with solder) and re-drilled as stated. i got the major rebuild kit today :D time to rebuild it, then re-jet!

yup i just came back from a carb shop, the normal fuel jets they had, BUT the idle jets they dont. they recomended use the existing ones and solder up and drill them.

thats what the carbi shop here tried to do with brendans but couldn't get the solder to stick once they started drilling.

they said that they would solder my current idle jets up and re-drill them. he tried for 3 days to get it done, but the solder wouldn't hold in the jets. ive tried almost everything trust me, i just gotta wait and hope that they can find me some smaller idle jets.

msn tit man :P

phew finished rebuilding it. all done. ill see if this shop can solder and drill but seeing you had no luck dunno. the ones i have are way to big 70/60, maybe if i can get 50/55 it would be at least better than that.

some happy snaps of my finished rebuild :D. now need to get idle jets re-jetted (or try to), work on a TPS, and a tune and all done!

what about welding it closed than drilling it

phew finished rebuilding it. all done. ill see if this shop can solder and drill but seeing you had no luck dunno. the ones i have are way to big 70/60, maybe if i can get 50/55 it would be at least better than that.

dude, my idle jets are 50/55 and they are too big. if ur gunna get them drilled out, do it right the first time. get them done at a 45/50 at least. we know 50/55 are too big already, cause thats wat i have.

yeh no probs, ill see if they have time to try to re-jet on saturday to 45 primary and 50 secondary. they sound good im not sure if i should go lower, ie 40/45.

what about welding it closed than drilling it

Brais at best, welding would melt the jet itself, solderingi s just a more mild form of braising anyway.

brendan do u have spare idle jets? i really want to have a go soldering then drilling them.. and then if that fails ill fire up the oxy and braise some stuff into the ****

i just been down the carby specialist in fremantle (Carby Exchange) and managed to buy some jets. He didnt have the idle jets i wanted 40/45 he said that he couldnt think of any car that had them that small, but he managed to scavange some 50/55 idle jets for me ! : ) says they are pretty rare, apparently cortina owners need them a lot cause they rattle and fall out :nuts:
he didnt have a 127 but he did have a 125 which he drilled to 130. and he had the 160. now i have to install them. for anyone else thats replaced the jets, do you need to replace the gasket ? and does it take long to do ?

yeh mines running stock air jets and 127 for primary fuel, and 160 for secondary fuel. the carby guy down here told me the same thing 45/40/50 idle jets etc are too small and he doesnt have them.

with replacing them its fairly easy you unscrew the top of the carby and u will see them at the bottom of the fuel bowl where the float is. not sure if u need to replace the gasket if its in good nik i prob wouldnt. all up will take you 15mins


like i said ill try to get the existing ones re-jeted if that fails then i gues 50/55 is better than the stock 70/60.

50/55 is really really poor, car sounds bad when you back off because its so rich.


brendan pull your finger out and get a o2 sensor thread welded in and we'll do it properly.

forgot my secondary fuel is 165, its only like 0.05mm off or something so it doesnt matter much anyway. yeh i know its fairly big 50/55 but ill see wat this shop can do. i poped on my ram-flo air filter today :D , next thing to do is fit a tps to it and then its all bolt on to the car.

reading a few sites i came along this table for some ideas/starting selections for idle jets:

Engine Size Idle Jet size
1600cc 40/45
1800cc 45/50
2000cc 50/55
2100cc 55/60


i mean im not gonna argue if you say its shockin with 50/55 but what about lowerin the air/fuel jets instead? say (this is just a stab);

primary air = 160
primary fuel = 110

secondary air = 160
secondary fuel = 120

give it a try, im yet to get the AF meter onto brendans car but my guess is the 50/55's are too rich because of the way it starts when cold nicely compared to if it was lean

checked out some more formulas and we arent too far off.

fuel jet = venturi * 4
air jet size = fuel jet + 50

this is as a rough guide. the weber has a 27 and 29mm venturi primary and secondary respectivly.

so for primary;

air jet size = 158
fuel jet = 108

rounding that off we get

air jet size = 160
fuel jet size = 110

for secondaries same concept would apply and we would get

air jet size = 166
fuel jet = 116

again rounding off

air jet size = 170
fuel jet size = 120



as long as you are around these values u shouldnt be too far off for the primary it looks like its spot on (runnin 160/127). for the secondaries a tad off, but im not sure if it applies to the secondaries as you would want tad bit more fuel when they kick in as not to lean out. so again i think our selection of jet is appropriate.

leaning out when producing that little power doesn't really matter. ide say 13:1 would be ideal if not still to rich.

can someone help me with some information ?, ive taken the top off the carbi and i can see the fuel jets, and air jets, but i dont know where the idle jets are.

can someone help me with some information ?, ive taken the top off the carbi and i can see the fuel jets, and air jets, but i dont know where the idle jets are.

one is with the idle cut off solinoid, and the other is oppisite it on the outside of the carbi held in by a brass bolt. take the solinoid off and its in the end, then goto the other side of the carbi and take out the brass bolt

ahh cool think i found them cheers

long skinny things

long skinny things.
:eh:

they are all installed now and the car runs a lot better, seems a lot smoother than it was before and more power.
i cant check how close i have the mixture cause i dont have a AF meter either but the plugs look ok. seems like the 50/55 idle jets are fine. it had 60/70 ones in b4. i have noticed however that the air correction jets are 160 for primary and 180 for secondary as standard, will that be too big ? ill keep checking the plugs anyway and see how it goes.

so now it is:

idle primary - .50
idle secondary - .55
primary fuel - .130
primary air - .160
secondary fuel - .160
secondary air - .180

thats the same setup i did in brendans carb, it does feel better ay :D

i would have tested his AF already but it needs a O2 sensor thread in the exhaust, i suspect it will be pretty spot on 13:1 when wot and mid/high and around the 14:1 down low.

here is how ill jet brendans when we get the AF onto it

primary throttle only will stay as close to 15:1 as possible

wot low rpm 15:1
wot mid rpm 14:1
wot high rpm 13:1

idle will be around the high 15 low 16 mark if possible

its just a matter of time and then it will run awesome (well even better than it does now)

yeh mines is;


idle primary - .50
idle secondary - .55
primary fuel - .127
primary air - .160
secondary fuel - .165
secondary air - .180


pretty much the same as yours im gonna go when i have time to get the 50/55 idle jets. the air jets are pretty much spot on stock it wont hurt to play with them but they seem alright.

damm went to a few places to find idle jets none have any! anyone know any places in melb? if not if anyone has some or can get some 50/55 ill pay for them send this way!

damm went to a few places to find idle jets none have any! anyone know any places in melb? if not if anyone has some or can get some 50/55 ill pay for them send this way!
brendan will have spares of them when we fit his.

all this carbi talks making me want to up the boost and see how high i can go before it gets to 12:1 :badgrin:

how many turns out from full in do you guys have your mixture screw ?
mine seems to be most happy around 1 turn out... although i thought with a webber it should be more like 2 turns out.

it does feel better now, but im not quite happy with it yet. when the secondarys kick in it still doesnt have enough grunt for me : \ ill play around some more with the mixture, i think its still slightly rich ill check the plugs tommorow. might play with the timing tommorow too i think its just a tiny bit too advanced. when coasting i get like a very very weak surging effect.

how many turns out from full in do you guys have your mixture screw ?
mine seems to be most happy around 1 turn out... although i thought with a webber it should be more like 2 turns out.

it does feel better now, but im not quite happy with it yet. when the secondarys kick in it still doesnt have enough grunt for me : \ ill play around some more with the mixture, i think its still slightly rich ill check the plugs tommorow. might play with the timing tommorow too i think its just a tiny bit too advanced. when coasting i get like a very very weak surging effect.

cant remember about the idle mixture, but remember its designed to allow 4.1L worth of idle air in so it will be pretty close to all the way in. problem with this is that you need 2.6L of air but the fuel getting in is for 4.1L so if you have a 850rpm idle like it should it will be rough because its so so rich, so a 1000rpm idle feels smoother but is high (and still probably rich) but not as rich. idealy we need to find the jet configuration for around 2.6L of motor and then we can get a beautiful 16:1 AF ratio at idle and the motors should purr
:D

All the idle mixture screw does is adjust how much air entres the engine at idle. there is a channel from above the butterflys which leads down to below the butterflys and the idle mixture screw blocks this channel. wind the screw out and it lets more air in, wind it in and less air gets in. If you left the screw as it was from the falcon then it would be allowing enough air to idle a 250ci motor at 16:1, this would mean idle would be roughly around the 1300 mark, but at a good AF ratio. so to lower the idle all we can adjust is the air entering so we screw the idle mixture screw in which lets less air in. but the same amount of fuel is getting in. although the right amount of air is getting in, the idle is rich which motors dont like and it will be rough and smell like fuel.

The idle fuel is controled by only 1 thing, the idle jets. they are either 50/55's or as someone else noted 70/75's but the ones ive seen are 50/55's. these are just things which sit in the idle fuel stream resricting flow by the size of the hole in them. 70 is larger than 50 so the 70 allows more fuel past and into the motor.

Me and brendan currently need to check the AF with his 50/55 config and see how it is and adjust from there. then we will obviously let everyone else know what jets EXACTLY to use

(small donations can be made to an account for his information :bowrofl: j/k)

If you have the std XF jets then a higher idle is probably a little better because sometimes it will foul a plug at start up and can flood the poor bastard.

Oh and carbi alone without the perfect sized pri/sec jets (by perfect i mean perfect) it probably wont feel ALL that much different to a std carbi because they dont flow all that much more. Like brendan tho.. add cam and exhaust to it and get the fueling right and :redface: OMG they do get up and boogy

oh and air jets just allow air to mix with the fuel stream once its in the emulsion tube to help the fuel vapourise, they dont really have much effect on the AF ratio in that sence but if the fuel isn't vaporising then the mixture will seem rich and power will be lost... i wouldn't recomend changing them just yet anyone

yeh i spoke to another carby workshop and this guy had a fair idea what he was on about so ill be taking it for a dyno tune when the carb is on. he said hes poped a few of those carbs on geminis with stock jets and ran great and decent economy despite they have smaller engines than the astron. basicly he said dont go too low with the fuel jets as they cause flat spots and get a air/fuel or gas analyser on it to see whats going on first.

i dont think its going to be major as we are in the ball park, but minor tweeking will be needed. as for the surging do you get popping from the exhaust when downshifting or decelerating? if so it may be too lean but more likely not enough ignition advance. chuck some 98 octane fuel and advance till it pings then back off a bit. also check for vacuum leaks when u did the conversion check up any old now unused ports are blocked up and might as well replace the old vacuum hoses with new ones.

hmm, u said before jets rattle out from cortina owners webbers, i have a cortina webber here (2L) anyone know what jets these are and if there usefull for me to use when i use the 4.1 L webber?

i know they are 50/55 and i was told they are different and wont fit the weber off the xf.

hmm, u said before jets rattle out from cortina owners webbers, i have a cortina webber here (2L) anyone know what jets these are and if there usefull for me to use when i use the 4.1 L webber?

i belive they should be 50/55 idle jets

im wondering wether to try my spare .135 for the secondary fuel..

yeh i was gonna use the 135 left over to try for the secondary fuel. they guy at the shop also told me not to be too worried about the air jets, mainly fuel. if you do try 135 let us know how it goes!

they guy at the shop also told me not to be too worried about the air jets


i wouldn't recomend changing them just yet anyone

must be an echo in here :P

has anyone thought to check wat jets were in the stock magna carb?

if u have a one spare, rip it apart and have a look.

i have 3 within 2M of me, gimme 5 min and ill tell ya

sorry, cant get it apart, stupid peices of **** the screws are ****ed

would it be in the mistsu service manual?

sorry, cant get it apart, stupid peices of **** the screws are ****ed

would it be in the mistsu service manual?

should be

Standard Magna Carburettor
http://users.tpg.com.au/charadet/temp/magna/magna_carbi_settings.gif
compare
http://turbocharade.kicks-ass.org/files/magna_weber_files/magna_weber_settings.jpg

you's are gonna love (even more) in a second :P

http://turbocharade.kicks-ass.org/files/magna_weber_files/

there you go lads

I used to own a ZJ fairlane which is the XF model fairlane
hence why i know a little about the weber units aswell i have the weber maual just for them :cool:

cheers. interesting to note the stock magnas carb idle jets are 58.8 and 67.5, close to the stock XF webers of 60 and 70!

cheers. interesting to note the stock magnas carb idle jets are 58.8 and 67.5, close to the stock XF webers of 60 and 70!

yeah its interesting, i put it down to different carbi setups and smaller venturi's will make more of a pressure difference. could also be dimensionaly inconsistant.. i dont really know tho im just guessing with that

Hey Guys I have been putting webers on magna's for a couple of years now, oh **** are they good,oh yeh...........the one u want is a 32/36 off a 2 litre cortina....(magic carby) what u need to do..........1 adaptor plate ..2 use the acl cable cam off your old carb which bolts straight on , and bend it toward the front of the engine(timing gear end)so the cable don't foul ..the relief sideof your fuel hose goes to the rear side of the carb outlet. that is it.....PS if doing this to an auto u have to adapt the T.P.S. to it , which is not that hard....WES.

how did you go about doing the TPS mod?

Is this the cortina carby we should be looking at?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=29699&item=4547941352&rd=1

yeh thats the one hes talkin about the 32/36 weber and yeh its pretty popular.

DGV - manual choke
DGEV - automatic (electric) choke
DGAV - automatic (water heated) choke
DFEV/DFAV - mirror-image to DGV series
Holley 180 - Australian licensed version of Weber 32/36
Holley 5200 - US licensed version of Weber 32/36

considering the stock magna carb is 32/35 up to you in picking it with that carb it would be bolt on, no real playin around with jet sizes. im stickin to the 34/34 mainly because i have it already and already changed the jets.

so u say use the 2Lcarby not the 4.1 L carby and it would be better?

well im gonna use the 4.1lt carby with the smaller jets, few places ive gone to told me thats an ok setup etc, but 2 said ur better off with the 32/36 (they prob assumed i was going to use stock jets). but way more said go for the 4.1lt one than the 2lt one. really i dont think it would differ that much except the 2lt version may have a tiny bit better throttle response with the primaries.

air velocity would be greater past the venturi so fueling would be more consistant at low rpm. but peak power would be lower.

stick with the 4.1L carbi, its easier and has an automatic choke if you can be bothered with it.

how is the choke supposed to be wired up anyway ?
ive got 12V from the ignition going to mine, but it seems so come on and off at its own will.
also theres a red wire on my carby closer to the base, whats that for ?

yeh mine has 3 wires

1-auto choke wire +12v
2-idle solenoid wire +12v
3-wire from where the adjustment screw is for idle

1 & 2 hook together and run to +12 when key is in ON pos, not ACC.

numb 3 is a single wire which completes a circuit in the XF ie so it knows when throttle is closed. not needed in the magna/no use for it. the choke shouldnt open close :confused: as inside the auto choke (electric ver) theres a coil, as it slowly heats it expands and moves the cam / gear to open the choke. to keep it that way the coil has to remain heated ie, the wire has to run from the alternator or ON wire to keep it "on" whilst driving" otherwise the coil will cool down and close the choke. assuming theres nothing wrong with the choke that is.

it shouldnt be hooked up to ACC, say if you parked your car somewhere for a while listing to music then turn it on the choke will be fully open. hard to start it.

make sure the wire gets +12v when key is in ON.


edit: i had a look at that 3rd wire, basicly it completes the circuit when the throttle is closed and choke is off. now (im guessing here). that wire could be hooked up to a relay to "turn off" the +12v to the choke as the choke has fully moved and made contact with that wire indicating it is ineed open so no need to heat the coil. prob is who knows how long the coil will cool down! constant heating/cooling. i recon best to leave it +12v and ignore that option... but thats what i belive that option is for.

also, show up pics of how ppl have attached their accel cable. i just went to try and fix mine and made it worse lol... now i have no accel cable

one of mine is a manual choke, the one i got today is a 32/36 dfv WHAT IS DFV

says DFV is the same as the DGV.

Hey guys iv been following this thread and its pretty awesome.
Can you use these carbies on a dual fuel setup?
I have a dual fuel setup, and ive seen plenty of LPG Falcons around. I havent seen a 2L cortina on gas though.
Im also in Melbourne for 5 weeks so i thought i should get a carbie set up for when i go bak to Hobart. the smaller jets seem pretty hard to find... especially in TAS
Also, is there such thing as a twin carbie manifold for the astron 2? Just an idea....

Hey guys iv been following this thread and its pretty awesome.
Can you use these carbies on a dual fuel setup?
I have a dual fuel setup, and ive seen plenty of LPG Falcons around. I havent seen a 2L cortina on gas though.
Im also in Melbourne for 5 weeks so i thought i should get a carbie set up for when i go bak to Hobart. the smaller jets seem pretty hard to find... especially in TAS
Also, is there such thing as a twin carbie manifold for the astron 2? Just an idea....

if u just want a replacement carby so that rebuilds etc arent as expensive as the magna one, i would almost recommend the cortina carb. if u are going for some power in the future, go the falcon carby for sure! reason i chose the 4.1L carby was cause im going turbo, and i wont need to upgrade the 4.1L carby at all. (just the jets back to normal instead of smaller for the 2.6L astron)

yes there are such things as twin carby manifolds for the astron 2. i know that there were twin carby sigmas (not sure if they were the 2L astron I's though)... but there is a place here in townsville that sells twin carby manifold for 2.6L astronsl for about $300 (not including the carbs)

my weber is pretty much ready to go, got new fuel hoses/adaptor for the carb today (again redline brand - all at autobarn). just need to fit a TPS (for the auto) and its pretty much all bolt on. hopefuly this weekend if i have time it goes on. im not sure if you can run a carby on LPG (i dunno here) but if its been done its been done, i dont know alot about it.

duel setup? a company called "Lynx" would prob make manifolds they also make those "ram-flo" airfilters.

http://www.lynxcorp.com.au/ourproducts/pdfs/disposals.htm

came back from the wreckers now, yup the old magna throttle cam fits on the webers........ but as you notice the webers throttle cam controlls the choke, so bolt this cam upside down (sorta) on top of it. fits! ill get pics soon.

pics.

i got the TPS off a TP magna still thinking of ideas how to mount it anyone?

tweeked it a bit more with the throttle cam i sawed off the back bit off the xf's so i could rotate the magna cam to the correct position. tiny bit of bending with pilars and its perfect. now the throttle issue is resolved. see pic. still thinkin on how to adapt the TPS!

hey guys im giong parts shopping
so can someone help me out with a list of stuff to get, including the jets for a 4.1 XF
or a 2L Cortina

im in melb. for a few weeks and i thought it would be good to start getting it built...

so yeah a list woudld help a stack coz im no mechaniceh!

hey guys im giong parts shopping
so can someone help me out with a list of stuff to get, including the jets for a 4.1 XF
or a 2L Cortina

im in melb. for a few weeks and i thought it would be good to start getting it built...

so yeah a list woudld help a stack coz im no mechaniceh!

ok if u were to use the 4.1L xf weber carb, i would suggest getting the carb, the accel cable and the bracket that holds the accel cable. (i just bought the bracket 2day, it is nothing less than PERFECT). u will also need an adapter plate, i made my own but someone here i think it is subby has found one to buy at supercheap. easy done.

jets, 160 for both primary and secondary air.

primary fuel - 127
secondary fuel - 160
idle jets primary - 45
secondary - 50

that is as far as i have worked out so far with jets. it feels pretty damn good, but i am getting an air/fuel guage onto it within the next few weeks to find out exactly where im running rich and lean, and i can adjust the jets accordingly.

yup spot on. i also got the TPS adapted to the weber today :D :D(for all you auto drivers out there)!!! pix tommorow.

autobarn or supercheap can order stuff in from "redline" they are a distributor from ET performance. i forgot the exact part number (should be there earlier in the thread) but its $36/$37. i also got the fuel adaptor so i could fit a new fuel hose to the carb (again redline) for $8.

oh yeh for sure go out and get the throttle cam off an old magna carb (or use ur old one) it will save you with headaches! :D

couldnt wait took pix just before of how i did the TPS setup (note: for auto cars only). now its all ready to go and plug and play :D friday arvo it will all go in.

heh finaly its on 4hrs later all done and working. tommorow get it on the a/f meter to adjust it as best as possible. :D

will mr nsw rego check man get pissy with this mod?

EDIT: I mean if it was a manual, i dont see a problem, but im worried the rego guy would get ****ty about the tps?

PS. will he notice if my car says on paper that its leaded, but i have an unleaded head or do i just plead stupidity? :P

PS. will he notice if my car says on paper that its leaded, but i have an unleaded head or do i just plead stupidity? :P
He won't notice a thing. The heads are for all intents and purposes identical. Plus you can't run the car on leaded either.

yes just came back from the dyno. primary fuel will have to be changed to 110, it bogs down too much for my liking on hard acceleration standing start with 127 (too big). going to go for another dyno run next week, since idle jets are soooo rare to find dropin the primary fuel jet size is the go. other than that setup perfectly, just need to tweek my TPS!

oh and boy does top end fly!


edit: oh my timming was 15deg! set it down to 12deg, dodgy magna timming chains.... stock is 8deg i belive.

nice, wat'd it dyno at? kw?

well kw were iffy as it was being tuned and still needs some work (new jet) but it varied from mid 70's to low 80's kW. i had to make a sacrifice, (my timming chain is pretty wak) either keep it 15deg BTDC and the engine would sort of "missfire" and spurt at idle, or to retard it few deg to 12deg BTDC at the cost of some power (yes its noticable power!) so it idled ultra smooth. also it ran so rich when being tuned the computer showed "ERROR". it couldnt even read it off the chart!

set my TPS to 1.08Ohm and shifts are a lot better, but yeh primaries MUST be changed. was told yet again not to worry about air jets, secondary fuel is fine, just primary fuel is too big @ 127, 110 maybe 115 is the way to go. the low end bog (taking off with WOT) is annoying takes off ok just could be a lot snappier too rich robbin power.

getin a new primary 110 fuel jet and back to see how it goes, should be a LOT better.

thats pretty good for carbs, did that include nitro?

mid 70's to low 80's. wat have u got done to ur car? and did u use the nitro injection aswell?

Hey guys, from reading what subby wrote i went down to the carbi specialist again today and bought a 110 primary fuel jet to give a go, i was finding that it keeps bogging down when u start to acceleate at low rpm with the 130 i have now. im about to install it and see how it goes.

I went down and got a lukey 2 1/4 inch exhaust, lukey ultra flow muffler.
cant say that i notice much difference in power, but with the sound of the carbie too it sounds sooo sweet. nice and deep, similar to a wrx just smoother (maybe i should raise my compression and up spec the cam :badgrin: ) i might take a video tommorow or tonight if i get chance.

nitro yeh just to see what id get had half a tank left so what the hell. today i poped a 110 in and OMFG it pulls like a train. no bog down at all!



110 primary fuel u will NOT REGRET ITS INSANE!!!!

current setup (now)-

stock idle jets
primary fuel 110
primary air 160
secondary air 180
secondary fuel 165

idle mixture about 12:1 (cant do much as no idle jets to swap!)
primary mixture 15:1 (good economy and snappy throttle response)
WOT 12.5:1 (good nuthing to touch there!)


compared to the STOCK jets
160/135
180/220
idle mixture about 12:1
primary mixture 12:1
WOT 9.5:1

rich as a pig

previous setup (yesterday)
160/127
180/165
idle mixture about 12:1
primary mixture 13:1
WOT 11.5:1


off its DIAL gettin the mixtures re done tommorow (as its lean from before) but even not tuned its insaneeeeee! 110 alllllll the way cant stop smiling!!

ahah yeh it sounds like a WRX that gurgle the looks you cop :D, i hav a 2" straight thru with a genie 3" cannon with 4.5" tip. ive also noticed my engine is not as hot as it was before (gauge read the same) but you could feel it was hotter.

no backfires (revin in 2nd WOT and snappin it closed = pop!), no bogging perfect. :cool: the revs build up normaly now before it was boggin hard and it took ages for the revs to rise down low.

booo, wouldve been good to see a kw rating without the nitro :doubt:

some pix.

very tidy, nice work

i tried the 110 in there and it ran like **** for me, bogged down even worse for me.
i put the 135 back in there and it fixed the bogging down. i wonder if its because of how heavily ported my manifold is? anway for me that fixes all drivability problems and has great power. only thing is the idle seems a little rich.

your engine bay looks just like mine now subby :D

it may be that but i doubt it. a 135 jet roughly distributes 400cc per cylinder. mine doesnt bog at all, i would suggest you play with your timming im going to up mine more tommorow (i had to retard it with the 127 jet).

are u sure u put it in the primary fuel jet? could have swaped it for the secondary. usualy bog down is caused by too much fuel i cant see how a 110 can do that. my idle is ok (needs to be readjusted) cuz it was leaned out HARD to compensate for too much fuel being poured in from the primaries.

are you running 70/60 idle jets? or the 55/50 ones? im using 70/60...

so subby, u used the nitro and the best mixtures possible and got into the 80's? or wat... how many runs u do and wat u do on each

well i spent 2hrs on it muckin about main issue was it bein too rich bottom end. i used 75hp shots and it revved off its tits :badgrin:. each time played with the timming and mixtures. without the shots (minding the car was runnin rich was mid 60's) ill see how i go with the 110 but looks good!

.... without the shots (minding the car was runnin rich was mid 60's) ill see how i go with the 110 but looks good!


:D

i feel better about my car now :dancin:


:rofleek:

:D

i feel better about my car now :dancin:


:rofleek:


how much to rebuild ur carb again? lol

rebuild what, i havent touched it :nuts:

the thing is stock

:owned:

:D

i feel better about my car now :dancin:


:rofleek:

and y would u feel better about ur car? cause subby''s car dynoed not much more than ur 61kw?

so i said, fair enough, but how much to rebuild ur stock magna carb, $200? (i hope u actually read right and saw the "b" on the end) was just havin a dig. never said ur car was modded lol.

me and subby will just go and buy our $55 rebuild kits for the weber

i saw the b in carb, i was just expecting abit of power increase for all that hassle.

Im hoping there will be, so we'll all just hafta wait till subby gets his Air/fuel ratio tuned to perfection, my AFR is sitting pretty on 12.86 atm :D

the carb itself won't increase power by much at all. but it has the potential too.

think about it... u had the stock magna carb on, tuned almost perfectly for the engine. then u go and put a larger carb on, with way smaller jets in it, again tuned perfectly for the engine.

to get more power out of it u need things like cams, exhaust, CAI... the car will want more fuel and so the carb has the potential to feed that fuel and air in. and wen i go turbo, my 4.1L weber carb will suit perfectly. i dont have to upgrade it, all i do is change the jets back to the bigger ones and there i go. too easy...

the potential is the thing i like with the weber, not to mention the cost of maintaining one. $55 for a full rebuild isn't too bad. there are billions of XF's out there. it has mechanical secondaries so u know u will always be able to get WOT, unlike the magna carbs with their vacuum crap. (still ticks me off to this day that i took my old magna carb off and its secondaries were seized shut, i just thought the car was slow as all hell) lol...

but yeah, price wise, the weber wins hands down... performance, yes it will increase power but ONLY slightly. it sounds better than the stock magna carb (hear that sucking :D), plus it's way easier to work with (mechanical secondaries, it dosent have coolant running through it like the magna carb does etc). for the hassle, i still think its worth it

thanks for clarifying :)

well ive been trying the 135 primary jet again for a while and it does give a slight increase in power, but the tradeoff is it does blow smoke(unburnt fuel) at lower revs :cry:
guess im going back to the 130 jet even though it sometimes would stutter as the revs build to mid range on a cool engine. guess ill have to adjust the choke.

on a side note, my car is at the exhaust place again getting pacemaker headers installed. now ive gotta kill time for 2 or 3 hours :doubt:

does anyone have trouble with thier engine stalling ? im wondering if its because i looped the fuel line around the intake manifold so it would fit easier. does anyone else have this problem. ? it happens when when coming up to an intersection when i put it in neutral and the revs drop too low (about 500rpm) then go back to normal idle speed. usually this only happens on a cool engine too.

ok got the car back this 4pm and they have put lukey headers on not pacemaker. but it sounds f**king awesome. noticble gains with mid and high rpm its flowing really nice into the lukey muffler. dosnt seem to have as much torque at 2000rpm driving grandad style in 70-80 zones but its not a big drop. if you bring the revs up to 2500 it feels the same and anything higher feels improved, it wants to rev its tits off now :D

all up cost $565 to get the headers and ultraflo muffler with install

So who here has done the 32/36 DGAV (water choke) conversion? ive picked up a reco-ed one this morning for $85... all i need now is my adaptor plate (self fabrication via plasma cutter :evil: ) and some sort of filter. Fabrication of a sealed box + air intake (snorkel) for the filter is underway, ill post some pictures of my progress in the 32/36 install + airbox if anyone is interested.

-*Wagon

hey, has anyone found the that thier weber converted magna idles too fast when the fast idle kicks in, it annoys me, when the engine is hot it revs between 1500-1800rpm. i read this is to aid in cooling the oil/coolant down. anyone know how to disable it ?

how is everyone going with thier weber conversion ?
mine is running well, except when starting off itll blow a little smoke(unburnt fuel)

mine will come after breathing mods and a dyno :cool:

u did a dyno, got 61, just run some cai piping and wack one on

u did a dyno, got 61, just run some cai piping and wack one on

whats the point when the car is running fine?

i really need to make a CAI and get it dyno tuned to set it up properly, also i think the vacum advance is off.

Hi to everyone, my first post here!!!!

Interesting to look at the different power output figures obtained from the 2.6 with different carbs.

My TN wagon was dyno'ed in Welshpool afew years ago, and the figure he gave me was 115hp at the wheels at 5100. He suggested the carb was too small, and it would benefit from a larger one. The carb was from rpw, and is a holley built-webber clone or something.
This made the car fun to drive, and although nothing by todays standards, kept it moving well.
Engine is from RPW, has balance shafts removed, k&n on the carb, std exhaut manifold, 2 1/4 exhaust to rear axle, then a 2 1/2 inch muffler. (unfortunately it drones a bit inside)

Unfortunately, it might be the end for this car. I have just got it back from my sister on perth, and it has a long list of problems............
body getting a bit tatty, alternator intermittently putting out 16v, Thermo fan not working, several stripped carby screws, front suspension clonk&squeak, and as i discovered today, quite possibly either a blown head gasket, or cracked head.

Back to the carby, unfortunately, I cannot remember for the life of me what jets were in the carby. Also, they would need to be measured, as the guy doing the tuning didnt have the size needed, so drilled out some to suit.

I was looking into the idea of giving th car a bit of a cleanup, and switching to efi etc, but will have to investigate the issues with the engine first.

Oh yeah, front tyres need replacing......... hmmmmm might try smoking them.

Hi to everyone, my first post here!!!!

Interesting to look at the different power output figures obtained from the 2.6 with different carbs.

My TN wagon was dyno'ed in Welshpool afew years ago, and the figure he gave me was 115hp at the wheels at 5100. He suggested the carb was too small, and it would benefit from a larger one. The carb was from rpw, and is a holley built-webber clone or something.
This made the car fun to drive, and although nothing by todays standards, kept it moving well.
Engine is from RPW, has balance shafts removed, k&n on the carb, std exhaut manifold, 2 1/4 exhaust to rear axle, then a 2 1/2 inch muffler. (unfortunately it drones a bit inside)

Unfortunately, it might be the end for this car. I have just got it back from my sister on perth, and it has a long list of problems............
body getting a bit tatty, alternator intermittently putting out 16v, Thermo fan not working, several stripped carby screws, front suspension clonk&squeak, and as i discovered today, quite possibly either a blown head gasket, or cracked head.

Back to the carby, unfortunately, I cannot remember for the life of me what jets were in the carby. Also, they would need to be measured, as the guy doing the tuning didnt have the size needed, so drilled out some to suit.

I was looking into the idea of giving th car a bit of a cleanup, and switching to efi etc, but will have to investigate the issues with the engine first.

Oh yeah, front tyres need replacing......... hmmmmm might try smoking them.

I bet your altinator problem is just a fualty regulator, easy to change yourself and from memory cost around $5-10 :P

what effect did removing the balance shafts on the 2.6 have?

what effect did removing the balance shafts on the 2.6 have?
the shake rattle and roll kind, i'm sure :D
sounds like a nice beasty setup.

Yep, pretty sure the alternator has one of those removable reg/bushes setups.
might even have one in the shed somewhere.

Idles a little rougher than when it was standard, but definately spins faster.

I will do a compression test this w/e to determine if the motor has a problem or not.
If it doesnt, then the other problems shouldnt be too hard to fix, and i recon it should go ok with a small turbo on it.

The EFI computer i am going to use (assuming it is worth continuing with) is one of those build yourself megasquirt kits. I havent built any electronics for a car since i fitted my XD, and by brothers VC with HEI kits about 10+years ago.

Well Guys... i have just sucessfully completed the weber 32/36 DGAV conversion to my magna. It still has some minor tuning to do (ignition timing), but that can wait... im thrilled that i can drive the car as per normal, i can now floor the acceleratior at idle with no fear that its going to flood the engine, nor run rich over 3000rpm :)
Unfortnately i discovered a hairline crack in my exhaust manifold, so next on the cards are a set of extractors to get everything running sweet and smooth again

Heres a few pics of my progress this morning. If anyone has any questions regarding the 32/36 weber, feel free to PM or email me

Enjoy

-Wagon*

cool converstion. :cool:
by the way, has anyone put a fuel pressure regulator in the fuel line ?
i heard the webers like to have a constant 6psi

i got bored the other day and i really wanted to do somthing about the carby sucking in so much hot air, and i cant afford a bonnet scoop at the moment so i decided to make one out of the stock airbox and snorkel.
I cut a hole big enough to fit the carb using tinsips, its works but its a bit rough. so i used a hammer to straighten everything out. :badgrin: the air filter plate makes a handy adapter to join the carb to the airbox. I just got it all in postion and made it air tight using silicon lol . the screws on the carbi and the 2 nuts on the rockercover all hold it securly in place. The snorkle i connected up to the pod using some air con ducting i got from bunnings. The pod filter is a generic $30 one from supercheap auto's.

The Vertdict: It seems to run a lot better, there is more torque over the rev range and it doesnt seem to bog down as much. Ive also been able to advance the timing a lot and its not pinging where it would b4. Its not as rev hungry as b4, but the extra torque is worth it. But the sweet whistle is dampened :cry:

all i got is a replacement open air circular filter ($60 from autobarn) and turbo_charade made an airbox to sit around the open air filter (sits over the carb, then the open air filter bolts down onto the carb inside this airbox). the airbox is sealed to the bottom of the bonnet with rubber door seals, $5 from ur local wrecker. then i have the small scoop. sucks cold air straight into that airbox (with nowhere to go but into the carb) and next to no hot air gets in because its sealed.

the airbox does however, have small holes drilled in the bottom of it so wen it rains, the water drains out. it works quite well, living in the tropics with the downpours we've had here and the car still runs fine, water dosent build up in the airbox at all. we just sprayed the airbox with some black rustproof paint so it wont rust and looks pro.

by the way... i got an A/F meter onto my car the other day. here are the results

idle jets - 60/70 = A/F is 12 (i actually checked the idle jets and they were a 60/70. we swapped in a 60 i had into the 70 spot and a 55 into the 60 spot and it ran WAY too lean. 60/70 is perfect)
primary fuel - 132 = A/F is 15 ( i had a 127 in there and was too lean. a 135 was too rich so the 132 was perfect for cruising around town)
secondary fuel - 220 = A/F is 13 (nice and rich, but damn it goes. ill b getting a 200 to swap in too. i think the 220 is perfect for now though)


TM-Terror - in regards to someone putting a FPR into the fuel line, i will have one this thursday. a malpassi unit ill put on and see how it goes. i need it for the turbo anyway so im gunna buy it now. i ordered it 2day.

brendan

Hey Tm-Red-Se,

How is your Fuel Pressure Regulator going ? Are you getting it proffesionally installed ?

Hey Tm-Red-Se,

How is your Fuel Pressure Regulator going ? Are you getting it proffesionally installed ?

they ordered the wrong one so i couldnt pick it up thursday. the right one arrived 2day (friday) but i had to work. turbo_charade went and bought it and hes using it. he also ordered another one for me though. so mine should finally rock up next week sometime, around the same time my TD04 arrives :surprised :silenced:

set my TPS to 1.08Ohm and shifts are a lot better, but yeh primaries MUST be changed. was told yet again not to worry about air jets, secondary fuel is fine, just primary fuel is too big @ 127, 110 maybe 115 is the way to go. the low end bog (taking off with WOT) is annoying takes off ok just could be a lot snappier too rich robbin power.

getin a new primary 110 fuel jet and back to see how it goes, should be a LOT better.

Did you mean 1.08 Volt? I tried to get the pot turned to 1.08 ohms but it,s not very good.
There are 3 pins , did you disconnect harness and test resistance between bottom 2 pins ie pins 2 and 3 I think.?

What are the final recommendations for jet sizes.
I have both carbies now, picked up a Ford one today.

So I have a 32/36 DGV 5A 135 pr fuel, 160 sec fuel. 50/55 idle.

The ford carb 34ADM has 160 prim ( didn,t have magnifying glass with me) 210 sec.


The car is stock,

Should I order some 110 primary jets and maybe use the 160 for sec?

sorry for the stupid question, but hey i'm learning! whats an tps and why mod it?

The TPS is what controls the gearbox changes and kickdown,
When you change from the standard carby to a Weber for example, you have to make a bracket to attach the TPS to the new carby, so of course it is out of calibration, that,s why after making the bracket you have to adjust the TPS.
You can still adjust the TPS on a standard carby, which will modify how the car shifts a bit.


Anyway Weber guys could someone reply re my questions re Jets sizes 2 messages ago, I want to order a few jets for the carby I,m going to put on a TP auto.

The TPS is what controls the gearbox changes and kickdown,
When you change from the standard carby to a Weber for example, you have to make a bracket to attach the TPS to the new carby, so of course it is out of calibration, that,s why after making the bracket you have to adjust the TPS.
You can still adjust the TPS on a standard carby, which will modify how the car shifts a bit.


Anyway Weber guys could someone reply re my questions re Jets sizes 2 messages ago, I want to order a few jets for the carby I,m going to put on a TP auto.

it was put in another thread but here goes;
for the weber 34 ADM
idle 55/60
primary 135
secondary 220

i tried a 110 primary and it seemed to be too lean. 135 is perfect.

a 127 was too lean for my primary jet... 110 wouldve bin rediculous

Not meaning to hijack the thread, but I thought I should conclude the information on the TN Wagon I mentioned above.

It is going to Magna Heaven...... well, close to.

After doing a cooling system test, and loosing pressure, I attempted to start it, and the engine hydraulically locked. I had to remove the plug from no 4 to turn it over. (fired lots of water out the hole) Next day, while driving down the rd, it lost more power, and I got plumes of steam out the exhaust pipe.

I drove the 13km home, and pulled the dipstick. A lovely brown sludge colour.

The car, minus the CD Player, Battery, and Straight thru 2.5 inch muffler is being donated to the local highschool auto workshop for the students to learn on. (they currently learn things on an old datsun)

I am off to look at a 2000 verada wagon this weekend.

sorry for the stupid question, but hey i'm learning! whats an tps and why mod it?
You're injected. It really only aflicts carby guys.

Heh, i think its time to dig up an old thread :P

So how is everybody going with thier webers/holleys? Is anyone out there tried installing a Fuel Pressure Regulator or different fuel pumps to their carbs yet?

I was also curious to see if anyones installed an Oxy sensor and air/fuel guage to their carburetted magna for tuning purposes? maybe some piccies or a discussion on how to setup this diagnostic tool to assist other carb-ers out there get some quality tuning for their webers.


Well my wagons been going strong. I havent had a single hiccup since ive replaced the minuki for a 32/36 weber a little less than 5000 k's ago. The fuel economy has been better than ever (its standing at about 450 - 500 k's a tank city, 600 - 700 k's country) and the performance has been refreshing considering what it was like to drive the old "vaccum cleaner" a year ago lol . I love the way how my astron now pulls between 2000 - 3500 rpm especially for towing. At the moment im still in lingo wether to install some extractors or to just replace my cracked manifold. Mind you i wouldnt mind having a shot fitting / welding some RPW extractors to my current kit. Has anyone had any experience with the set of 4-1 extractors sold by RPW regarding the quality of product, ease of install, and any noticible gains in power / economy?

So who else out there has any fruitfull weber storys?

-Wagon*

Hi Wagon,
As you know I,ve just put a 32/36 on a TP auto.
I,m told it,s going well.

What size jets are you currently using.?

I just ordered some more jets , I think it will run better with 60 prim idle, 140 prim jet and 135 sec jet , then 165 and 160 air jets.

The 32/36 came out stock with the sec jets smaller than the primary so I,m guessing that,s the way they intended it to be.
I know the ford carby has much larger secondaries than the primaries.

Do you think extractors would be worth it?
My son,s toying with the idea of a CAI too :)

Thought better to reply to your throttle cam question in this thread.

We just used the original throttle cam, didn,t have any clearance problems, probably because my model carby is a manual choke.
It just bolted straight on to the carby .
Oh I did have to make a bracket for the accelerator cable to get it better in line, it,s attached to the plate on the side of the head that was probably intended for a mechanical fuel pump.And I welded a small length of shaft on to the cam for the TPS, drilled a hole in it and used a bit of cut off rivet as a pin to turn the TPS

Our TPS bracket is a bit rough but it works and is adjustable.

Cheers Triox

Ahh, yeah its the water-choke in my 32/36 is creating problems for the throttle cam. Theres nothing wrong with my 'bent' throttle cam at the moment, im just worried that its gonna exert too much sideways force on the accel-cable causing premature failure. Ideally some 20mm flat bar fabricated to say 40 - 50mm long with sutible fittings will prove a simple, yet effective solution. All i need now is the time to do it.

At the moment im using the stock jets. At the moment its tuning just about right (rich if anything, id like it to run a little leaner) but untill i get my cracked exhaust manifold replaced, and get an air-fuel gauge fitted i wont know what will need adjustment first. Are the extractors gonna be worth it? well i hope so. they are defintely gonna be more reliable than my old or a set of second hand stock manifolds, and id like to end my curiousity to wether they aid power / economy at all.

-Wagon*

Yea, our 32/36 weber seems to be running well at the moment. It is running abit rich so Triox is going to order some smaller sized idle jets for me. Hopefully this will get rid of the tiny bit of hesitation I get when taking off from stationary, and let it idle more smoothly.

At the moment I am thinking of trying different cheap mods on the magna, not really for power, but just to see what effect they have. Sort of like my own MythBusters, im learning as I go :D

I am going to test out a CAI first, as it costs next to nothing to do, (just need piping and way of isolating the filter). After that I might start with my sound system, then alot later on I might see what can be done with the exhaust.

But, back to the topic. I would highly recommend that anyone who has a weber and has not played with jet sizes, DO IT NOW!! :D Even the smallest change in jet size can make a HUGE difference.

well lately ive been mucking around with the accelerator pump/throttle linkage to improve it. the guys at rpw put a return spring on it, but it was just too strong to be driven like that. ive managed to lower the tension by modifying the position of bracket and bending it flat. i then turn it till i get just enough tension to get a consistent idle. sometimes it catches on the fast idle cam in the choke, anyone else had this trouble ? maybe i can lubricate it with somthing ?

also ive always had this slight flatspot coming off idle, where the engine hesitate if u start to move the throttle. usually this is caused by a slightly lean patch, so i checked my primary jet again i was using the 127(drilled to 130) and changed it to 135. now the hesitation is gone.
ive bought a oxy sensor from jaycar electronics to see what the mixture is doing, should be here in a few days.

one thing i have noticed is a persistant missfire from 4000rpm plus that was happening with the old engine, and its been doing it with this new engine too. almost feels like hitting a rev limiter. a bit like stuttering. after a hard run or two, it doesnt seem to do it, also in lower gears it doesnt seem to do it.

any ideas ? coil, dissycap, rotor, spark plugs are all brand new. and the leads are about a year old. they are 8mm jobs, they are looking a little worn and they are crossing each other, touching etc could they be the problem? the earth wire on the block is a bit frayed and rusting where it connects to the block too.
spose ill have to wait untill i get the oxy sensor to elimitate fuel problems

oh btw wagon, i would definatly recommend upgrading to a set of extractors. the stock manifolds have a tendancy to crack and they arent the greatest design.
Anybrand should make a difference, im running lukey and they look great and sound sweet. good design too. they are around the 300-350 mark with install.

Terror, i think ive got my heart set on installing the RPW's myself, depending on what ive got in the space of free time over the next month or so (gotta love been the DIY man), but its good to know that i can prolly get a set of genies from the local zorst shop if nessicary.

Also, have you switched to a new Distributor for your new engine? this is just a poke in the dark but it could be possible that the weighting system inside your current dizzy has become sticky or faulty in some way, From memory these weights are thrown out between the 3000 - 4000 rpm mark.

Triox / Hydroxinol, keep us in touch on how you guys go in regards to jetting the 32/36. it would be sweet if we could eventually compile everybodys info regarding the weber 32/36 DGV and 34 ADM upgrade options for astrons. Keep up the good work guys :thumbsup:

-Wagon*

ive bought a oxy sensor from jaycar electronics to see what the mixture is doing, should be here in a few days.


just an idea for the carby dudes why not get a good set of headers from the wreckers off of an efi and then u can use the oxy senser off of that also i heard the efi headers are slightly bigger then the carby ones but im not sure how theyll go fitting up down the bottom cos of the cats on the carby models

hi guys, im wondering if my high rpm missfire is a fuel delivery problem so i was just thinking about installing a fuel pressure regulator but i really dont know a lot about them. from what i gather from a quick read on the internet, i can put a cheap one in the fuel return line and set it to say 3psi and this will only let fuel return to the tank when its reaching this pressure. is this correct ? what does everyone else know about them.

would this one on ebay be suitible for my application ?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Carby-Cars-NOT-EFI_W0QQitemZ4567900754QQcategoryZ102567QQrdZ1QQcm dZViewItem

well just to thread mine, ive been working on tuning the carby again and ive made some breakthroughs. this may sound stupid but i had never acutally adjusted the idle mixture screw before because it sorta hidden, anyway when i turned this screw out i found that i could get a good idle mixture with the jets im using. before if you screwed the idle jets all the way in tight the engine would just cut out.

anyway here is my current best jetting, and the car is not bogging down now : )
idle mixture screw, around 2 to 3 turns out from fully in.
idle speed, not sure
idle primary .60
idle secondary .55
primary fuel 1.40
primary air 1.60
secondary fuel 1.65
secondary air 1.80

the combination is performing really well and giving smooth power right across the board.
although i may have to increase the secondary fuel jet or swap the air jets to get the max revs from the engine.

sorry to bring this thread back from the dead :P But i am just about to fit the weber to my 2.6 astron 1 sigma. The last hurdle to get over is finding the redline adaptor that screws into the 34adm to accept the sigma fuel hose.

Would anyone know the part number for this part so it will be easier for me to track down? After i get this i should have it all ready :D Yay :D

Go to Autopro tell em what you're after, or Autobarn. Try to avoid Supercrap Auto

Its finally all back together now :P Took her for a drive and found out one of the calipers was binding and had no brake pads left :shock: New set of pads and all is well.

All i need for the weber conversion is this damn fuel adaptor. I have tried autobarn and they tell me to goto enzed or pirtek. Can anyone who has ordered the fitting from redline take a look at : http://www.redlineauto.com.au/products/category/MPYHCTTE and let me know which one i should be looking at? The guy behind the counter said its a 10mm x 1.5 although he didnt sound to convincing :?:

If i can just get a part number ill be laughing :P

Argh.. cheers :P

Here is a pic of what i am looking for. I have been to 3 autobarns and they all say the same thing. Nah we dont have it mate, try somewhere else. Would anyone be able to tell me the size of the fitting i will need? I am at the point where i want to just order 3 different fittings at a time from redline and hope i get the right one.

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/4784/001ukr.th.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/i/001ukr.jpg/)

the fitting goes into a metal pipe.

i never undid the fitting, instead i left a bit of the metal pipe, cut it clean with a dremel, then put rubber hose + hose clamp. the fuel isnt under pressure and i never had a problem of it leaking.