my dad own a 1994 ei Verada, which has done 455,000km and has had 2 motor rebuilds (still on original transmission. He changes the oil himself every 5000kms using Castrol GTX or something crappy like that. Lately the car has been running real rough, which made us think its up fr another rebuild.

When he took it to his mechanic, he said the engine oil has all sludged up in the motor and is setting to bitumen. He recomended to drain the Castrol GTX stuff, flush the motor, and use an expensive oil. He did that which made it run better, but when he drove it yesterday, the motor locked up, and blew. The mechanic said that there was still sludge in the motor which settled into bitumen, restricting oil. This mechanic claims that where the sump drain plug is located on the Magna's, there is a 1-2cm difference, which leaves oil in the pan, therefor it doesn't fully drain out, which over time settles to a bitumen! Is this because of the oil? or the sump pan problem which he claims Magna's have? He changes the oil religiously every 5000kms.

As it stands he's not fixing the Verada, it's had a good run, and has been his business company car for years! With the original gear box showing no signs of failing, it will soon I reckon, with 455,000km on the clock, its been excellent!

Dad's using it as an "as is" trade on another Verada (used) "the shape from 2yrs ago with the nice front, not the ugly front the new ones have on them now.

my dad own a 1994 ei Verada, which has done 455,000km


:shock:

R.i.p

It's not dead yet. Someone should remove the oil pan an see what's inside!

^^ as above, surely if its what the mechanic says just take off the sump?

We took the sump off the other day after the mechanic said the motor was building up with a Tar like substance, that was restricting oil. All the bottom of the sump (about 1-2cm was all this thick old sludge oil. We couldn't work it out why it would build up on a car that is oil changed every 5000km. I suppose Dad using Castrol GTX cheap crap wouldn't of helped
, But we did see what the mechanics meant, the sump bolt is not on the bottom, it is more on the side a little, and about 1-2 cm of oil can sit in the bottom of the pan, and not properly drain out. When I took my Magna to Mitsubishi for it's service, I told them about Dad's car, he agreed he has seen SOME Magna's with a sludge build up, that has stuffed the odd motor, but they now tilt the front of the car lower, and the back higher on the hoist, to get all the old oil out.

I wouldn't mind fixing the Verada and selling it, but a Magna/Verada with 455,000km on the clock, and with it's original auto transmission is not going to sell for much. They don't hold there re-sale value, and with that ammount of k's, I would be pushing it. It's been a reliable car, has been driven around Australia a few times, has served its purpose! I can say, it was traded today (towed in, and used as a roling trade) $1300 he got, for a 12yr old car with high kms and a blown motor lol. He bought a 2002 MITSUBISHI VERADA KJ MY02 GTV, black, black leather seats, full schmick accesories.

wow.....with a car thats running roughly 40,000 km a year he got a decent run.

hope u like ur new upgrade

It depends what GTX he is using. From memory the V6 should run GTX3 or better, so if he is running lower than that, that will cause issues.

A good way to flush out the oil is to drop it, put the sump plug back in and poor 5 litres or so of diesel through it. DO NOT START IT and let it sit for a few hours. Pull the sump plug out again, drain all the diesel out and fill it with oil. Run for around 2000 Km then do an oil change, then do it normally after that.

This is what we do when oil is contaminated with coolant and sludges up :)

, But we did see what the mechanics meant, the sump bolt is not on the bottom, it is more on the side a little, and about 1-2 cm of oil can sit in the bottom of the pan, and not properly drain out. When I took my Magna to Mitsubishi for it's service, I told them about Dad's car, he agreed he has seen SOME Magna's with a sludge build up, that has stuffed the odd motor, but they now tilt the front of the car lower, and the back higher on the hoist, to get all the old oil out.
:nuts: V6 sump plug is on the REAR of the engine?

To tip out most of the oil, I'd raise the FRONT of the car more than the rear.
Which is what I did - using car ramps to raise the front.


When I oilchange I also chuck in a bottle of Wynns Engine Flush.

After all the old oil has drained out, I pour in 1L of new oil and turn the engine over.

Only when the oil comes out clean do I put on new filter and replug the sump & refill.


Also need to do oilchange when the oil is still warm. If you do it cold all the sludge
will settle to the bottom of the sump and stay stuck there.

I'm sorry to say that I think it was the choice of oil more than anything - I've had Rover V8s for many years in the past and they were notorious for sludging when run on Castrol GTX. I guess its too late for you now, but the trick with the Rovers was to put a fill of Diesel oil in them for a month or two, every other year - Diesel oils being much higher 'detergent' action than petrol engine oil.

:nuts: V6 sump plug is on the REAR of the engine?

To tip out most of the oil, I'd raise the FRONT of the car more than the rear.
Which is what I did - using car ramps to raise the front.


When I oilchange I also chuck in a bottle of Wynns Engine Flush.

After all the old oil has drained out, I pour in 1L of new oil and turn the engine over.

Only when the oil comes out clean do I put on new filter and replug the sump & refill.


Also need to do oilchange when the oil is still warm. If you do it cold all the sludge
will settle to the bottom of the sump and stay stuck there.



Actually the comment on lowering the front and raisng the back is correct as the sump bolt on the 12v 6g72 is towards the front of the car, ur thinking of the 24v 6g72 where its on the rear hence raising the front.

also a note on those engine flush products although it may seem like ur doing good by flushing it out it can actually be bad, basically it disslodges all the foriegn particles and can actually trap them somewhere else where it may cause a problem.

Actually the comment on lowering the front and raisng the back is correct as the sump bolt on the 12v 6g72 is towards the front of the car, ur thinking of the 24v 6g72 where its on the rear hence raising the front.
oh ok - thought the 1994 ei = KF with the 24v. :confused: my bad


also a note on those engine flush products although it may seem like ur doing good by flushing it out it can actually be bad, basically it disslodges all the foriegn particles and can actually trap them somewhere else where it may cause a problem.
yeah, wouldn't want to be driving around with the flusher in the sump.
I pour it in whilst hot and idle for about 15 mins, then drain & flush with more new oil.

Oil is cheap (thank you Mr Bush! :P ), I'd usually use like 6-8L to do a 4L sump.

Actually the comment on lowering the front and raisng the back is correct as the sump bolt on the 12v 6g72 is towards the front of the car, ur thinking of the 24v 6g72 where its on the rear hence raising the front.

also a note on those engine flush products although it may seem like ur doing good by flushing it out it can actually be bad, basically it disslodges all the foriegn particles and can actually trap them somewhere else where it may cause a problem.

That’s why it is important to use engine flush products from new, the dislodging is more of a concern on older engine which haven’t had this done from early on. This risk can be minimised by just idling the engine for a few minutes with the flush inside. Driving around with a flushing agent in your oil will flush much better than idling but also increases the risk of blocking oil pathways with freshly dislodged sludge and causing more harm than good.

Happy motoring :)