What the hell are those extra air boxes for? I have put in a K&N filter and I want to know if I should remove them or plug them up. I just got the car tuned for gas and don't want if running lean again becuase I pluged the resonators. Any one shed some light on this?

some ppl say it is good some say its bad
just like the pod/panel arguments
pretty much just do it see if it works if not just put them back on

they are there to reduce the induction noise

i have taken mine out and i have a huge induction noise i have a pod aswell though

I don't think it would be a good idea to remove them if you just had your car tuned. As they do affect air flow slightly. But I have removed mine with no problems.

Just try it & see what happens, you can always put them back on.

what did you use to plug them?

some people use gatorade caps, milk caps ect
i had some little cap things that were at my mates workshop so i just chucked them in

Take them out, you wont feel bugger all differance but the sound increase is nice :) the induction becomes throaty instead of quiet and raspy. To plug the holes I followed Jellico's advice and used mcormicks spice lids, there little glass bottles for spices and their green lids fit a treat like they were made for them.

Once again, the only answer is bugger them off :P they suck

Matthius

you wont feel bugger all differance but the sound increase is nice the induction becomes throaty instead of quiet and raspy.

Thats all I need to know! (Does it affect insurance?)

u'll have to speak to ur insurance company about that one.....
i really dont see how it is a defectable item though so im not sure they would really look into it anyways

Thats all I need to know! (Does it affect insurance?)

paint the caps black and they'll never know :) I just carry the pods(in the boot) in case anywho for a quick change over.

Anyone have the bottle caps fall into the intake piping, casue i dont wanna do that and end up with a buggered engine.

So those who have removed them how tight have u got them stuck in there, and what have u put in that is a very tight fit.

Thanks

Tom

Anyone have the bottle caps fall into the intake piping, casue i dont wanna do that and end up with a buggered engine.

So those who have removed them how tight have u got them stuck in there, and what have u put in that is a very tight fit.

Thanks

Tom
take off the resonatore and u will find that there is a lettle ledge around the inside so the caps actaully sit ontop of it

Just a quick note guys

The resinators are there for a reason

basically you need the have the same amount of air between the airflow sensor and the T/B to equal the size of the engine....

i.e 3 Ltr engine = 3 Ltrs of air

so if you remove the boxes you are halving the intake volume therefore making the motor work harder to draw the same amount of air giving you a roar of air....

but hey if it doesn't kill it go for it

I myself am making a longer pipe between the airflow sensor and T/B giving more than 3 Ltrs and leiminating the need for the boxes...

also if you are interested i belive the pipe on a late model corvette is the same as the magna's without the holes....

I used Jack Daniels lid caps. They fit nice and i was able to put the boxes back on aswell so you cant tell they're blocked!

It looks completely normal unless you pull the boxes off (and who is going to do that)

Just a quick note guys

The resinators are there for a reason

basically you need the have the same amount of air between the airflow sensor and the T/B to equal the size of the engine....

i.e 3 Ltr engine = 3 Ltrs of air

so if you remove the boxes you are halving the intake volume therefore making the motor work harder to draw the same amount of air giving you a roar of air....

but hey if it doesn't kill it go for it

I myself am making a longer pipe between the airflow sensor and T/B giving more than 3 Ltrs and leiminating the need for the boxes...

also if you are interested i belive the pipe on a late model corvette is the same as the magna's without the holes....

thanks for the handy info dude :)






I used Jack Daniels lid caps. They fit nice and i was able to put the boxes back on aswell so you cant tell they're blocked!
It looks completely normal unless you pull the boxes off (and who is going to do that)


you my friend are an ideas man :thumbsup:

Just a quick note guys

The resinators are there for a reason

basically you need the have the same amount of air between the airflow sensor and the T/B to equal the size of the engine....

i.e 3 Ltr engine = 3 Ltrs of air

so if you remove the boxes you are halving the intake volume therefore making the motor work harder to draw the same amount of air giving you a roar of air....



So how come there is no difference between the 3.0 and the 3.5, or any difference between power outputs(exec/vrx) as the more power you produce the more air you consume ?

AFAIK, those pods are there to reduce induction noise, now I'm sure people will say but there they're there for other reasons eg: reducing intake pulsing etc, but why is it that most cars dont have them?
Take the induction off a falcon or a holden and they're not particularly loud, a bit roary yes, compared to a magna though, no comparison the magna absolutely growls, this is due to the 60% v6 engine layout.

If anyone has ever seen one, the alfa 164/75 3.0 v6 is almost identical in layout to the magna, almost the same bore and stroke, the same rated power and torque, these don't have induction pods and they sound great, the pipe between tb and maf is almost the same length as the magna.

Magnas have huge amounts of sound deadening throughout the car, for a standard car, just look at the mat that sits under the carpet and the massive rear muffler, now have a look at the intake, and compare it to other cars.

Matthius - alternative

to plug the holes go to a hardware store etc. You can get a rubber cap which will slide over the hole, then you just use a standard screw clamp or similar to hold it.

I have had a mates WRX suck a bottle cap into the induction pipe. It CAN happen.
We were lucky to find it just before it went in to the turbo. I'd say do it properly. It costs about $1 but could save $$$$$$.

Also plugs which come with some blow off valves work very well

Also plugs which come with some blow off valves work very well

Can I get that cool turbo blow off noise if I get one?

Hate to burst the bubble for some of you the boxes are there to increase metered air before the tb giving the car more air when it is needed try the test on the dyno and see if there is a difference. In most cases ppl dont realise that theyare going slightly slower than before because of the "cool" sound they make.alot of jap cars do have them fitted commodores and falcons dont because there r &d isnt that extensive.

Hate to burst the bubble for some of you the boxes are there to increase metered air before the tb giving the car more air when it is needed try the test on the dyno and see if there is a difference. In most cases ppl dont realise that theyare going slightly slower than before because of the "cool" sound they make.alot of jap cars do have them fitted commodores and falcons dont because there r &d isnt that extensive.

Please explain to me how something that creates a venturi across an airflow increases the air flow going past it and why european cars don't have them, even though they have "a little" r&d.

Matthius

Reading all this has made me decide to do my next mob to accompany the POD. :badgrin:

Maybe even more growl from the Intake. Now i gotta drink 2 bottles of milk by tomorow lol

Tom

Reading all this has made me decide to do my next mob to accompany the POD. :badgrin:

Maybe even more growl from the Intake. Now i gotta drink 2 bottles of milk by tomorow lol

Tom
No... steal mum's McCormicks lids (the large ones) they work perfectly as the bottom of them slide in snug and the top has a lip.... no way these buggers are gonna get sucked in there lol Just got to think of a good reason as to why 2 spice shaker lids have all of a sudden gone missing lol

i've read heaps of stuff bout these boxes....and at the end of the day i can notice absolutely no performance increase/decrease nor any fuel consumption changes.....nothing at all....except a beefier engine note.....

Once explanation i read is that they act as a pneumatic spring, kind of "forcing" more air into the intake. When u put the foot down at that initial moment motor sux all the air out of the piping creating a vacuum which then sux the air from the boxes.....i dunno

anyway whatever their there for....i've had mine off for almost a year now and no negative effect.

Just try it.....if u dont like it put the boxes back in....it'll take u 2minutes.

you guy's mention falcon and commodore's

next time you look in the engine bay have a look at the distance between the Airflow meter and the T/B

They are both longer pipes with more than enough air inside, then look at your magna again...

but as i said before if it doesn't kill it do it..... :cool:

http://jimmockmotorsport.com/articles/aspeed_awakening_aussie_ford_part_two/2236_9lo.jpg

http://www.v6conversions.com.au/pics%20for%20web/DCP01822.jpg

quote from madmagna.com


The main reason is Volumetric efficiency. In other words how efficiently the motor can suck it's fill capacity of air. Some tests I have read about have, on the dyno, shown a definite slight drop in horsepower after fitting a straight through induction pipe and no resonator boxes. One article quotes form on of the designers at Toyota that cars with airflow meters of any kind are designed to have a particular volume of piping between the sensor and the throttle body. These boxes are specially made to help keep to this volume right down to the size of the opening of the box. All of the articles do state that in a forced induction motor there is absolutely no reason to keep these boxes. Click HERE to link to the tech sheets regarding Induction Resonators. This link is thanks to Peter Scott from www.planetsoarer.com

Having said all of this on my Verada I have noticed a small drop in overall pick up off the mark but at the same time I have noticed a huge difference in the torque range. On a steep hill at say 80kmh I would usually go out if overdrive and use 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. Now the same road I am in overdrive using less than 1/3 pedal. Fuel efficincy has increased as well. The drop in pick-up I can live with for better fuel economy and low down torque. I have kept these boxes and will give it a go on a dyno soon both with and with out them. As for the OEM pipe, I have decided to keep it for now due to the fact it has been designed for this car. I have no intention at this stage of converting to a pod filter until I can come up with a proper cold air box for one.

http://www.users.bigpond.com/pgscott/resonator/resonator.html
the soarer link
http://www.users.bigpond.com/pgscott/resonator/ResonatorsAcoustic.htm
the scientific study link...
so take them of if u want a cool sound....keep them if u want to go fast...

THANKS TO 96_ALTERA, MATTHIUS & tfv 630 for your quality info.
I'D LIKE TO ADD MY EXPERIENCE - WHEN I WAS TUNING MY TJ II exec. I ADVANCED THE DIST.TO 10 DEG. & NOTICED THAT THE IDLE BECAME NOTICEABLY ROUGH. THIS MODEL DOES NOT COME WITH A RESONATOR BUT WHEN ADDED ON THE SMOOTH IDLE RETURNED. I WOULD SAY THIS SUPPORTS THE THEORY OF RESONATORS BEING THERE TO SMOOTH PULSATIONS THROUGH THE AFM. ALSO WHEN I HAD MY TR 5 SPEED MANUAL I REMOVED THE RESONATORS - THE CAR RAN SO BADLY THAT I IMMEDIATELY REPLACED THEM - PROBLEM SOLVED!

THANKS TO 96_ALTERA, MATTHIUS & tfv 630 for your quality info.
I'D LIKE TO ADD MY EXPERIENCE - WHEN I WAS TUNING MY TJ II exec. I ADVANCED THE DIST.TO 10 DEG. & NOTICED THAT THE IDLE BECAME NOTICEABLY ROUGH. THIS MODEL DOES NOT COME WITH A RESONATOR BUT WHEN ADDED ON THE SMOOTH IDLE RETURNED. I WOULD SAY THIS SUPPORTS THE THEORY OF RESONATORS BEING THERE TO SMOOTH PULSATIONS THROUGH THE AFM. ALSO WHEN I HAD MY TR 5 SPEED MANUAL I REMOVED THE RESONATORS - THE CAR RAN SO BADLY THAT I IMMEDIATELY REPLACED THEM - PROBLEM SOLVED!

dont shout

WHEN I WAS TUNING MY TJ II exec. I ADVANCED THE DIST.TO 10 DEG. & NOTICED THAT THE IDLE BECAME NOTICEABLY ROUGH.

how are you able to advance timing on a TJ? only 2nd gens are able to do it..... but if you did, let us know.

and also - dont shout. please.

HAHAHAHHAA :bowrofl::bowrofl:

THANKS TO 96_ALTERA, MATTHIUS & tfv 630 for your quality info.
I'D LIKE TO ADD MY EXPERIENCE - WHEN I WAS TUNING MY TJ II exec. I ADVANCED THE DIST.TO 10 DEG. & NOTICED THAT THE IDLE BECAME NOTICEABLY ROUGH. THIS MODEL DOES NOT COME WITH A RESONATOR BUT WHEN ADDED ON THE SMOOTH IDLE RETURNED. I WOULD SAY THIS SUPPORTS THE THEORY OF RESONATORS BEING THERE TO SMOOTH PULSATIONS THROUGH THE AFM. ALSO WHEN I HAD MY TR 5 SPEED MANUAL I REMOVED THE RESONATORS - THE CAR RAN SO BADLY THAT I IMMEDIATELY REPLACED THEM - PROBLEM SOLVED!
first u say it didnt come with resonator then u say wen u put one on yur smooth idle returned ??

how are you able to advance timing on a TJ? only 2nd gens are able to do it..... but if you did, let us know.

and also - dont shout. please.

I was thinking the same thing, but having never tried I didn't want to look like an idiot :bowrofl:

I was thinking the same thing, but having never tried I didn't want to look like an idiot :bowrofl:
nah u can advance the timing
u need a new ecu to be able to do that

nah u can advance the timing
u need a new ecu to be able to do that

Yeah thats what I figured - assuming you typod and meant can't :)

Yeah thats what I figured - assuming you typod and meant can't :)
yeh sorry typo, u cant

:cool: Hi all - sorry about the shouting
If you want to advance the dist base timing on a TJii you have to remove the dist and drill a hole anti-clockwise to the existing hole then join them using a suitable round file, forming a curved slot (the bottom slot has already been done - phew ! )
CAUTION ! you must take extreme care with metal filings getting into the dist - do this at your own risk The engine will then idle too fast and run too rich when cold so you MUST use some electronics so that the ecu "sees" the correct mixture when warming up, and at cranking which will now be different. I bought the lower resonator from a wrecker and cut the inlet that is blanked off to suit Now you will find the engine MAY run best on the 3.0 L program and you MUST use 95 RON fuel - I find caltex to be the best. Finally I changed the mix of spark plugs to platinum all round but one range colder and now it seems to purr along with a nice grey colour from my lukey sports and with good fuel economy. PLEASE BE CAUTIOUS WITH ANY MAJOR MODS AS ENGINE DAMAGE MAY OCCUR IF SOME OF THESE MODS ARE NOT CARRIED OUT WITH DUE CARE - I use an air - fuel ratio readout similar to a modified Jaycar mixture meter TO ENSURE PROPER FUEL MONITORING AT ALL TIMES
regards Barry

Hi Barry, what's your back ground?

Hi from Barry
My background was as a radio technicion and installer of car security and sound systems
and general interest in automotive electronics. My first Mitsu was a TR 2.6 5-Man Sedan
Congrats on a great website. :cool:

Hi from Barry
My background was as a radio technicion and installer of car security and sound systems
and general interest in automotive electronics. My first Mitsu was a TR 2.6 5-Man Sedan
Congrats on a great website. :cool:
Welcome to Aussie Magna Barry, enjoy your stay. :)

I removed mine on a dyno. I plugged both holes and there was a very slight .5hp gain in the top end. However there was a noticeable increase in torque in the lower end with them out.

mine used a lot more fuel from an agverage 11.2/ per 100kay to 14.3 so mine is back on.
Instaaled new NGK IRIDIUM IX platium plug, Soomth rev quicker acceleration better on fuel new avarge fuel 10.2 thats city and small amount of highway. @ $20 a plug it good so try out that.