Lets say if i got an Alpine Type R 12" sub (Dual 4) and a new Jaycar Monoblock

Type R is rated for 300WRMS

Jaycar Monoblock is good for 700-800WRMS in 2ohm

If i wire the Type R in parrallel it will be running 2ohm

but is the extra 400-500WRMS too much headroom? i dont wanna blow up the sub! would there be a way if i turn up the system that the whole 700WRMS would not go into the sub? i really need to learn more about car audio not just the basics :doubt:

The main reason i cant really find a monoblock putting out decent power (say around 500WRMS at 2ohm) for a decent price (under $500) and ill acutally be getting 2 Type R's so the 2 monoblocks from jaycar will be 700 all up (mebbes less coz i got an old friend who works there) as opposed to $1000+ (be less if i went 2nd hand, but its hard to find 2 of the same monoblocks and i dont really wanna pissfart around and spend heaps of time finding them)

Am considering going into some audio places who are trying to get rid of old alpine stuff and getting 2x MRD-501's but wouldnt pay more then $800 all up for the 2, they jaycars are still looking the better option

thanks for your time :cool:

and before someone says i should just get 1 big ass amp to power them both and it would prolly come out cheaper, i am also going for some wank factor hear ppl, 2 amps and 2 subs in the boot to fill up that big big magna bootspace

']
but is the extra 400-500WRMS too much headroom? i dont wanna blow up the sub! would there be a way if i turn up the system that the whole 700WRMS would not go into the sub? i really need to learn more about car audio not just the basics :doubt:
There is a thing called a 'gain' knob. turn it right down. Fire up your system, slowly turn up the aforementioned gain knob until you have the bass you want.

Done.

']Lets say if i got an Alpine Type R 12" sub (Dual 4) and a new Jaycar Monoblock. Type R is rated for 300WRMS
Rated for 300W - yes, can handle more, once run in properly. They aren't the best speakers, but crap all over Kenwood, Sony & Pioneer


']Jaycar Monoblock is good for 700-800WRMS in 2ohm
A bit more than that, but yeah


']If i wire the Type R in parrallel it will be running 2ohm
That's correct


']but is the extra 400-500WRMS too much headroom? i dont wanna blow up the sub! would there be a way if i turn up the system that the whole 700WRMS would not go into the sub? i really need to learn more about car audio not just the basics :doubt:
Rule number 1 - you can never have too much headroom. just turn your gains down. That power figure is based with the gains up as high as it goes. see my prior post.


']The main reason i cant really find a monoblock putting out decent power (say around 500WRMS at 2ohm) for a decent price (under $500) and ill acutally be getting 2 Type R's so the 2 monoblocks from jaycar will be 700 all up (mebbes less coz i got an old friend who works there) as opposed to $1000+ (be less if i went 2nd hand, but its hard to find 2 of the same monoblocks and i dont really wanna pissfart around and spend heaps of time finding them)
Nuthing wrong with the Jaycar monoblock, Damon Dupriez (on Car Audio Australia) seems to like them.

You could also look at getting dual 2 ohm DVCs and wiring them in series (4 ohm load) then parallel wiring the subs to the amp, giving you a total 2 ohm load on ONE amp. FHRX and s_tim_ulate will know more - my knowledge is murky in this area - but I believe if you have an amp with a good dampening factor (Like the JBL 600.1 monoblock with a factor of over 6) to make this wiring configuration okay to listen to.

I know it isn't all about presenting a certian resistive load to the amp, or you could wire 16 subs in various wiring configurations and still present a 2 ohm load.


']Am considering going into some audio places who are trying to get rid of old alpine stuff and getting 2x MRD-501's but wouldnt pay more then $800 all up for the 2, they jaycars are still looking the better option
Monoblocks are the way to go. Again, Magnat, FHRX, tim etc will offer their opinions too.


']and before someone says i should just get 1 big ass amp to power them both and it would prolly come out cheaper, i am also going for some wank factor hear ppl, 2 amps and 2 subs in the boot to fill up that big big magna bootspace
1 big amp would be bigger than 2x jaycar monoblocks. They are very compact compared to other monoblocks of similar output.


EDIT: make sure you power wire a dual monoblock powered system properly. This means 2-guage power wire to a distro block, then 4-guage to each of the monoblocks. Fuse the 2-guage as close as you can to the battery.

Also, 1 big amp is easier to control, you have to get the 2 amps set exactly the same or your output SQ and SPL will suffer.

hey simone, :P

You can never really get enough headroom, so yeah, just turn the gain down to a suitable level. Saying that, I'm sure the type-rs can handle a little more than their specified power.

Even tho the M501 monoblock amps are great amps, I dunno....go and get two jaycar monoblocks lol If u wanted to load the amp to 2 ohms with two subs, then I think u would need to get 2 ohm, dvc subs....but nahh, I say stay with 1 sub and one amp. I can't justify using 2 subs, except for wank :P ALso...do you reeallly need to get an alpine type-r?


On the other hand...if u wanted to go all out wank, then I say two alpine type-rs and two alpine monoblocks. Pure alpine wankery + 1. :D

eek with another non-spam post... I think I'm having a heart attack!

Yeah, I reckon the 2ohm dual voice coils wired in series (4ohms) and then parallel the drivers to the amp (makes a 2 ohm load) is the way to go. :thumbsup:

On another note, I believe that some sub manufacturers make subs that run a 6ohm DVC. Sounds strange until you realise that most monoblocks are 1.5 ohm stable, so a single 6 ohm DVC driver wired in parallel presents a 3 ohm load (6 ohms per coil / 2 coils = 3 ohms) and then parallel 2x 3 ohm loads (3/2=1.5 ohms....) and hence good for most decent monoblocks! :D

I remember a long time ago I was shown 3x10" bostons in a box and they were all 6 ohm SVC drivers.... 6ohms paralleled across 3 drivers = 2ohm load! :badgrin:

eek with another non-spam post... I think I'm having a heart attack!

Yeah, I reckon the 2ohm dual voice coils wired in series (4ohms) and then parallel the drivers to the amp (makes a 2 ohm load) is the way to go. :thumbsup:

On another note, I believe that some sub manufacturers make subs that run a 6ohm DVC. Sounds strange until you realise that most monoblocks are 1.5 ohm stable, so a single 6 ohm DVC driver in series presents a 3 ohm load (6 ohms per coil / 2 coils = 3 ohms) and then parallel 2x 3 ohm loads (3/2=1.5 ohms....) and hence good for most decent monoblocks! :D

I remember a long time ago I was shown 3x10" bostons in a box and they were all 6 ohm SVC drivers.... 6ohms paralelled across 3 drivers = 2ohm load! :badgrin:


Yeah, I ph33r glenny and his banstick. lol....oh and probing questions if they want to review me

A few amps can actually run below the specified impedence, as long as they have good ventilation.......still, i wouldn't do that. Better safe than sorry, when u blow up your $3000 amp lol

What $3000 amp have you got eek? :bowrofl:

Yes, most monoblocks will go 1.5 Ohms.... but not 1 ohm. My JL will do 1.5ohms quite happily.

lol well risky_rog was selling 2, so i bought 2! looks like the jaycar monoblocks are the go


go wank factor go go!

So what exactly did you buy?

2x SWR 1241D's


the boot should feature fibreglass, mirror plexi, ivory/cream vinyl and blue(or white) neons when its finished

and yesi oculd just get 1 monoblock with DVC 2ohm subs, wire them up in series then wire them as parrallel to the amp so it putting out 2ohm, they would et 400wrms each then but they arnt 2ohm DVC subs plus i want 2 amps coz it will look "fully sick" plus all that headroom can only mean nice big boomy beats that dont distort and always room to upgrade later on

same as wank factor for a car as car audio, u can put on al lthe bodykits, rims u like but it aint gunna make the car go any faster, if i didnt want wank factor my car would be lowered al ittle with a full suspensions set up, all money on engine mods, rolling on 16x7 falcon steelies, with no audio coz i wouldnt have any money left over

same as car audio in reality 1 sub with 1 amp would be plenty of enough bass to keep me happy but i want it to be flashy, so ppl will eventaully one day steal it :doubt: just like a flashy car

wikkii wikkii wow

cant wait to break it simon :P

']and yesi oculd just get 1 monoblock with DVC 2ohm subs, wire them up in series then wire them as parrallel to the amp so it putting out 2ohm, they would et 400wrms each then but they arnt 2ohm DVC subs
All you said in your first post is that you were getting 2 Type-R 12"s. Since they come in 2ohm DVC and 4 ohm DVC, I was only trying to point you to a cheaper and probably just as good setup. If I was going down the DVC route, I would go the 2x 2ohm DVC's, and wire each sub up in series, then the speakers together in parallel to the amp, but that's only my opinion - you can take it with as many grains of salt as you like.


']plus i want 2 amps coz it will look "fully sick" plus all that headroom can only mean nice big boomy beats that dont distort and always room to upgrade later on
It's your money Ralph. I'd sooner use the extra $400 on sound deadening my boot coz with the components mentioned to keep the vibrations from the boot and parcel shelf at bay.

Yes, you will have craploads of headroom for some serious subs in the future... JBL GTOs, Digital Designs, Fusion (I know some don't like fusion), and they will be loud. You can always run quality subs higher than their rating, as long as your amp is not clipping the output. This varies from sub to sub, and amp to amp. You want to make sure your power wiring is top notch in this regard.

Anyway, since you have now purchased them, we have to find the best solution for you.

The Jaycars will do the job easy, but they are not very 'bling' at all, just a black heatsink really. In fact, I dunno if you can get any less 'sick' looking amps than these. However, they are usually purchased for power on a budget, not the massive mega fibreglass & neon install you mentioned. If you havent seen them, try the jarcar website, but last time I looked they were not there. Try and get a catalog... I have one at home but I am currently at work.

For about $450, you could go for the JBL 600.1 (rated at 580W RMS @ 2ohm) monoblock, which has a transparent smoked plastic cover, and a hole that you can slide a CCFL into to light up the inside of the amp. This would look sufficently bling for your install. have a look at Masosi's thread for a link and discussion on the components here - http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18762

I am sure Tim, Magnat and FHRX could suggest some sufficiently bling amps if you ask them.


']same as wank factor for a car as car audio, u can put on al lthe bodykits, rims u like but it aint gunna make the car go any faster, if i didnt want wank factor my car would be lowered al ittle with a full suspensions set up, all money on engine mods, rolling on 16x7 falcon steelies, with no audio coz i wouldnt have any money left over
Whatever floats your boat Simon, as long as you are happy with the setup you get. We alll want a little wank factor - or we would all be driving around with stock cars.


']same as car audio in reality 1 sub with 1 amp would be plenty of enough bass to keep me happy but i want it to be flashy, so ppl will eventaully one day steal it :doubt: just like a flashy car
So you have ricing tendencies. Big deal. I like bodykits, big wheels, 6" exhaust tips and neons too. :D

So you have 2x SWR 1241D's which i gather are DVC 4ohm. I think the Jaycar actually is rated at 800WRMS x1 @ 1ohm. Nothing wrong with the subs you got, just wire them parallel / parallel to make a 1 ohm load and find a mono block that produces 800WRMSx 1 or more. Im sure something will fit in that catergory instead of wasting time on 2 of them. Damon is dodgy and propably gets paid off by Jaycar to promote there products though everytime someone asks him he just has a big cry.

How about the US tech 1600, 1600WRMSx 1 @ 1ohm :badgrin: , they are cheap... or even better ( i think ) is a Caliber 2000d, $600 and 1250WRMSx 1 @ 1ohm ( tested at 1330+WRMS ) so yeah your options are open dude. Get a Caliber and 2 more type -R's and run the caliber at 0.5ohm :bowrofl: . Or if you need more power just strap another one on :shock:

Damon isn't dodgy, he just has a bit of a conflict of interest since he helped Jaycar develop the speakers and amps this time around.

If he did't say they were good, It's like calling your own work crap. That said, they are very good value for the money. They certainly ain't the best money can buy.

And post links for the US Tech & Caliber amps....!

Damon isn't dodgy, he just has a bit of a conflict of interest since he helped Jaycar develop the speakers and amps this time around.

If he did't say they were good, It's like calling your own work crap. That said, they are very good value for the money. They certainly ain't the best money can buy.

And post links for the US Tech & Caliber amps....!

Its a long story, apparently he has been "associated" with them for some time. They are ok, hell i have one due to $ / Watt etc and it has served me well. Will try and find links for you.

Just one thing I might point out about loading amplifiers down. In [THUGDOUT]'s original post he stated the amp is 700-800 watt at 2ohm.

Your amplifier is stable to 2ohms like your engine is stable to 8000rpm. While it is stable it doesn't like being there.

If you want more bass, get another sub and amplifier, don't just wring the neck of your existing amp. ;)

Just one thing I might point out about loading amplifiers down. In [THUGDOUT]'s original post he stated the amp is 700-800 watt at 2ohm.

Your amplifier is stable to 2ohms like your engine is stable to 8000rpm. While it is stable it doesn't like being there.

If you want more bass, get another sub and amplifier, don't just wring the neck of your existing amp. ;)

Im not to sure Marty i think it may be 800WRMS x1 @ 1ohm. Can anyone clarify that? Another idea is to wire the subs series / parallel ( total 4 ohms ) and hook it up to a JL 500/1 or an Audison SRx2s :bowrofl: both of those are a proven 600odd WRMS @ 4ohm.

Hey Marty:

when I said this


You could also look at getting dual 2 ohm DVCs and wiring them in series (4 ohm load) then parallel wiring the subs to the amp, giving you a total 2 ohm load on ONE amp. FHRX and s_tim_ulate will know more - my knowledge is murky in this area - but I believe if you have an amp with a good dampening factor (Like the JBL 600.1 monoblock with a factor of over 6) to make this wiring configuration okay to listen to.

and this

I know it isn't all about presenting a certian resistive load to the amp, or you could wire 16 subs in various wiring configurations and still present a 2 ohm load.

Am i correct?

Yes to part 1 no to part 2, in part to it depends on the resistance of the coil, for instance 16 coils at 6ohms each will not give you a perfect 2 ohm load. But yes with right coils you could wire it to make a 2 ohm load. It is a pity he has already bought DVC 4ohm subs.

Caliber link (http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/review/showproduct.php/product/40) is the only one i can find in english.

Us tech (http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/review/showproduct.php/product/70/sort/7/cat/35/page/1) Pity it is not on the Doran website. They are more SPL amps than anything else.

In regards to amplifier damping factor and other things similar, yes they're vitally important. Damping factor describes an amplifiers ability to control a woofer cone. It's the ratio of rated load impedance to the internal impedance of an amplifier. The higher the damping factor the more efficiently an amplifier can control unwanted movement of the speaker coil. High damping factor is crucial for subwoofers and the higher the damping factor the better. It is debatable if anything over 50 is audible. Damping factor is calculated by dividing the speaker impedance by the output impedance of the amplifier. In other words the damping factor will decrease as the speakers impedance decreases. This means an amp optimised at 4 ohms will provide tighter bass than when they're running at 2 ohms. A lower damping factor will leave bass notes sounding soft and undefined, regardless of the amplifiers power output. You can see by this that a smaller 100 watt amplifier with a high damping factor can often sound better than one twice it's size with a low damping factor.

The other main spec to look for when talking subwoofer amps is total harmonic distortion. THD is the measurement of the how much the amplifier can distort the sound signal through the introduction of added harmonics or overtones. THD figures are usually given as percentages and a THD figure below 1% are generally inaudible to most people. However, distortion is a cumulative phenomenon so if your head unit, eq, crossover and amplifier are all rated at less than 1%THD each, together they could produce 5%THD which may well be noticeable to most of you.

So this all said and done, I personally perfer to run all our systems at the nominal 4ohm load unless they're specifically designed for SPL competition where everything is set-up differently. If you want more bass, get more power and more subs. :)

Basically, the Class-D that Jaycar have rated at 800WRMS is actually rated by the supplier as making a tad over 1000WRMS, but during our bench tests the power supply could not provide a full 14.4V at 1ohm and sagged to around 13V. This resulted in around 820WRMS as a highest number we could measure on our test gear. Given that I wasn't able to truly get 1000WRMS on the bench thanks to the power supply sag, I insisted that Jaycar either invest in a laregr supply to give a 100% accurate rating, or simply under rate the amplifier. They chose the latter after I advised them that there were few amps on the market that made 800WRMS+ for $400 anyway. Also, they wanted to know if the amp was independantly reviewed it would exceed its rated power comfortably - which it should do.

That is straight from the CCA website out of Damons mouth.

okay, thanks guys, all that said though, If I was to wire up a load of subs (say 16) in a way to make it a 4 ohm load, and connect it to around a 1000W monoblock, it would sound like crap I imagine, and could hurt the amp yes?

Why is that the case?

a 4 ohm load is a 4 ohm load... It wont sound crap...

Thats all the amp sees.

So the amp wont be under any pressure providing the gains are set correctly.

I've seen a wall of 6x9's being burped in SPL comps... lol

So it's just the fact that you are dividing 1000W into driving 16 subs, therefore each gets around 63W, hence not real loud?

but 63 watts x 16 subs....

It will be louder than 1000 w into one sub.

Double the surface area = 3db gain...

So you would have a 12db gain (all else constant) using 16 subs compared to 1 sub with 1000w rms.

peace

Tim

that totally stuffs with my head, I thought I was smart when I could get wiring loads correct!
I kinda understand what you mean, but the concept of it blows fuses to my brain and steam outta my ears like the guy on the Natrad Ad..

So it's just the fact that you are dividing 1000W into driving 16 subs, therefore each gets around 63W, hence not real loud?

I got in trouble for this, the 16 subs "share" the power. No <100WRMS is not really enough to drive a sub properly, maybe a JLw0 will go ok. Yeah like tim said a 4 ohm load is still 4 ohm, only power is shared, nothing else so all will sound the same.

Although double the cone area will mean a 3db increase. therefore with the JL being of 89db sensitivity @ 1 watt, say in a sealed box ( ports will add more ). So the JL should be around 107db with the 63WRMS, then add the cone area 2subs will be 110db, 4 will be 113db, 8 will be 116db and 16 will be 119db.. huge :bowrofl:

a 4 ohm load is a 4 ohm load... It wont sound crap...

Thats all the amp sees.

So the amp wont be under any pressure providing the gains are set correctly.

I've seen a wall of 6x9's being burped in SPL comps... lol

169.XX is the record on Audiocontrol for 6x9's apparently. Some SPL nuts want to have an SPL comp with 6x9's. I know a guy who got in the 140's on termilab with 2x kicker 6x9's sharing a slot ported box and 600WRMS :bowrofl:

169.XX is the record on Audiocontrol for 6x9's apparently. Some SPL nuts want to have an SPL comp with 6x9's. I know a guy who got in the 140's on termilab with 2x kicker 6x9's sharing a slot ported box and 600WRMS :bowrofl:

They can have their dB drags in the driveway of the mental hospital if you ask me..... :nuts:

still, 140 with anything is impressive, let alone 2x 6"x9"s :shock:

There is no such thing as underpowering a woofer.

i say this because driving a 2000 w rms sub with a 50 watt amplifier is the same as driving it with a 2000w amplifier with the volume turned down. (providing the 50 w amp isnt clipping)

Otherwise a sub would distort at low volumes.

Even though each sub will move less, the overall movement of air will be greater with the increase in surface area

(try not to think about it lol);)

Peace

Tim

Even though each sub will move less, the overall movement of air will be greater with the increase in surface area

(try not to think about it lol);)

Damn, I think I broke my brain!

Everything you say makes sense, it's just the concept of it.

So I use my JL monoblock and shove as many subs into my car as I can?

Remember I am saying that in theory.. So that is all other things equal. In reality, when you put more subs in the enclosure size will reduce etc etc...

I wouldnt use more than 2 subs personally. Otherwise you sacrifice box space.

And subs cost money... MOney that could be used on bigger amps or better subs

/food for thought ;)

Damn, I think I broke my brain!

Everything you say makes sense, it's just the concept of it.

So I use my JL monoblock and shove as many subs into my car as I can?

Exactly. you should get another sub so you can make a 3ohm load he he. I think your subs would be run in by now.... up with gains dam it up with them!! You are not going to hurt your amp with 8ga wire, it will almost at its limits in term of current flow.. but almost is good enough lol

Remember I am saying that in theory.. So that is all other things equal. In reality, when you put more subs in the enclosure size will reduce etc etc...

I wouldnt use more than 2 subs personally. Otherwise you sacrifice box space.

And subs cost money... MOney that could be used on bigger amps or better subs

/food for thought ;)

Im sure 1 DD 9915 will satisfy even the most demanding SPL nut. :D

I'd just like to apologise to Simon for totally hijacking the thread.... :confused:

i stubled across this thread and only bothered to read the first 1.. for starters TYPE R subs are useless bellow 500 rms and secondly they have been known to handle 1200 rms each

thats my 2 cents worth

jaydee

Its ok MitsiMonsta for hijacking thread (how come everone uses my name now lol) just to answer a few questions bought

I wanted Dual 4's because the plan all along was to install 2 Subs and 2 Monoblocks, if the monoblock makes more power at 2ohm then i might aswell use that rather then having half the power at 4 ohm becasue i have Dual 2ohm subs

and MitsiMonsta i did say they were dual 4 ohm in the first post, and the new jaycar amps are just black heatsinks anymore

link: http://img71.echo.cx/img71/7200/jaycarampssmall1nj.jpg

bit more styalized, i can live with it!

and yes, i do realize i COULD wire up things differently. use a big amp to power both subs, but its not the setup i want, the JBL's look nice and the price is right but nothing for the money produce anywhere near what jaycar can provide, ive auditioned jaycar stuff before (considering some 2 way kevlar just for some rear fill over my stock 6x9's... but later maybs)

But i want a nice boot install too designed the way i want it designed, which requires 2 amps dammit!

Think ill just grab the 2 jaycar amps. woo 2 12's and 2 amps for just over a grand, im happy

-------------------------------------------

Ok ok next question PPL

I listen to bass heavy music (rap/hiphop/rnb) is sealed or ported best for the subs, bootspace really isnt an issue because i hardly use my boot, im thinking ported?

']
Ok ok next question PPL

I listen to bass heavy music (rap/hiphop/rnb) is sealed or ported best for the subs, bootspace really isnt an issue because i hardly use my boot, im thinking ported?

ok simone,

you do realise you will be running 3 amps? If u use two monoblocks for two subs you definately aren't going to be running your front stage off your headunit lol

Think about the extra costs of wiring, distro blocks, rcas even.

From my personal opinion, don't go ported. Its a little too laggy for my liking. Sometimes, I listen to rap/rnb/hiphop- from artists like, fitty cent, eminem, usher, ja-rule, jay-z, nelly, chingy etc etc etc.

Yes, the bass hits at insane levels, but its just not to my tastes. I'd like it a little tighter- so for you go sealed. Its not like two monoblocks and two subs is 'underpowered' anyway :P

FYI- I have a 15" sub, 2.4cu ft tuned to about 40Hz and ~1100wrms into it. Was originally at 30Hz, but wasn't loud enough lol

I agree the new Jaycar amps look really good! I dont think you can go past them for value. It would be optimal to use one amp for subs, but if it's cheap and gonna look good, meh, just do it.

What are the specs of your sub first. Some are suited to ported and some to sealed.
Using the Fs (resonant frequency) and Qes (Total electrical Q of the woofer) you can calculate the Efficiency bandwidth product.

Some subs will be suited to either, some to sealed and some to ported.

Nevertheless, you can get great results from a ported box, they are very efficient but tend to lack control down low without subsonic filters. (Which i beleive the jaycars have.

A sealed box can play below the resonant frequency with more control, will offer more predictable results, is easier to build and very forgiving.

Unlike a ported enclosure which has to be spot on to get a nice flat response.

I'd go with the biggest sealed box you can whereever possible. It wont be as loud, but with that much power as Eek said, you wont have an issue with hearing.

Peace

Tim

personally i would of gone an MRD-M501 coupled with 2 dual 2ohm Type R's, but thats just me :P would of been a bit over the $1g mark though :P

I'm biased though, with an MRD-M301 running 2 dual 2ohm Type S's

I dont think the Alpines are suited to ported.. i have never seen a ported type - R. I think there EBP is pretty low around 50 or something.

Sealed boxes are easy, smaller one raise the effiency ( a little ) but the -3db becomes higher but for larger sealed boxes the reverse happens, less effiency but lower -3db point.

With 2x DVC 4ohms you will have 1ohm or 4 ohm presented so you only have 2 options from the Jaycar cat, the 2x 150WRMS and bridged it to make 500WRMS for you subs although will not make much more power or the mono block that will "apparrently" make some 900odd WRMS into a 1 ohm load so it will be louder than the A/B class amp but lose out big time on control and SQ.

I think the Audison SRx2s would be better, 600WRMSx 1 @ 4ohms with all the control and power and only RRP$598 ( 10% off for AMC members ). :D

ok simone,

you do realise you will be running 3 amps? If u use two monoblocks for two subs you definately aren't going to be running your front stage off your headunit lol

Think about the extra costs of wiring, distro blocks, rcas even.

From my personal opinion, don't go ported. Its a little too laggy for my liking. Sometimes, I listen to rap/rnb/hiphop- from artists like, fitty cent, eminem, usher, ja-rule, jay-z, nelly, chingy etc etc etc.

Yes, the bass hits at insane levels, but its just not to my tastes. I'd like it a little tighter- so for you go sealed. Its not like two monoblocks and two subs is 'underpowered' anyway :P

FYI- I have a 15" sub, 2.4cu ft tuned to about 40Hz and ~1100wrms into it. Was originally at 30Hz, but wasn't loud enough lol

Eek dude i was thinking about you problem with your bass. I think that ( and bare with me ) it is your amp that is letting you down. Those DD 2515's come in DVC 4ohm so you are presenting your amp with either a 2 or 8 ohm load ( being a mono we can say 2 ohm ). Now im not sure if this is a general rule, but with the JL mono blocks in a 4ohm load they have a damping factor of 500 and in a 2 ohm load that is halved to 250. Im not sure what your effective damping factor is but say even if it is at 250 @ 4ohm like most, that means @ 2ohm it will be around 150. That is still not bad but when driving a high powered 15inch sub ( being ported ) that is why the bass note are becoming very muddy.

Is your PG stable down to 1 ohm? If it is i think you should get a DD3512 in DVC 2ohm. Run it 4 ohm for everyday and 1 ohm when you want BASS. :bowrofl:

Eek dude i was thinking about you problem with your bass. I think that ( and bare with me ) it is your amp that is letting you down. Those DD 2515's come in DVC 4ohm so you are presenting your amp with either a 2 or 8 ohm load ( being a mono we can say 2 ohm ). Now im not sure if this is a general rule, but with the JL mono blocks in a 4ohm load they have a damping factor of 500 and in a 2 ohm load that is halved to 250. Im not sure what your effective damping factor is but say even if it is at 250 @ 4ohm like most, that means @ 2ohm it will be around 150. That is still not bad but when driving a high powered 15inch sub ( being ported ) that is why the bass note are becoming very muddy.

Is your PG stable down to 1 ohm? If it is i think you should get a DD3512 in DVC 2ohm. Run it 4 ohm for everyday and 1 ohm when you want BASS. :bowrofl:


hey, my amp isn't 1 ohm stable. manual says 2 ohm minimum, but i dare not try it at 1 ohm lol i know wat u mean by low dampening factor at low impedences. the manual doesn't say what the dampening factor is, but its a Phoenix Gold QX900.1d so you're free to find out specs for me. stop rubbing it in! i want a dd3512 too. I might wire up my sub as 8 ohm and see if its better.

Im thinking of going 2 dd 1012's. SQL styles
More suited to sealed than the 3512's. And would match my amp poifectly...
The Alpine doesnt get low enough.

Peace

Tim

Ok guys this is what i got today

2x Alpine Type R 12" Dual 4ohm subs (SWR 1241D)

i've basially decided on amps 2x jaycar monoblocks will do nicely (and a small 2x50 or sumthing to power front splits)

Mr Charisma i dont understand why i only have 1 or 4ohm option? i am using an amp to power each, so a 2 or 8 ohm load is what im looking for from the amp, if i didnt want wank facotr and for it to fit in i would wire everything in parallell and go 1 ohm and get a nice big amp for that, but im happy with the extra work and stuffing around to have 2 amp and 2 subs in the boot and hiding the 2x50 somewhere


The Fs is 28.0 and Qes is 0.45, think ill just go sealed :)

ooo im all excited :cool: :cool: :cool: about a month away form doof doof

No worries dude i was just saying for the 800WRMS from the Jaycar you will need to present it with a 1 ohm load. So really if you present it with a 2ohm and have to of them, the load should be perfect for your alpines with around 400-500WRMS per sub.

They 15inch type - R doesnt have a recommended ported box so dont think the 12inch would. My Boston doesnt have a recommended ported box but for SPL i could use a 2cuft box. Get a hold of a box making program and play with the curves and stuff. :D