hey guys, i've been reading some of the threads here while doing some research for buying a magna and you all sound pretty helpful so i thought i'd ask for some advice :D

I definately want a 2001 or 2002 tj (most mods i'll do is maybe tb, rear muffler, and put in a stereo - apart from that i'm keeping it stock)
my budget is around 12-12and a half, and from that i've worked out I can either get an 02 exec from an fleet auction or an 01 advance privately for a tad more

i found a nice looking 2001 solara with 78k's privately and can probably get it for around 13 (which is slightly over my budget :(). the car looks and drives straight enough but the owner said a couple of things which don't really match up (about who the car is registered under and plates and stuff)so i'm a bit unsure. i'm doing a revs check on monday anyways. also it doesn't have a logbook because they claim they didn't get one from the previous owner. they reckon they've had it serviced every 5000k's since they've had it cause they know a mechanic.

on the other hand i've got a mate who says i should hold out for a dual fuel model and theres actually an 01 exec going at auction this week which has dual fuel.

what should i do

:confused:

Get a vehicle with a log book.

Mitsubishi's in particular don't take it too well when the automatic transmission fluid isn't changed regularly. Thats all well and good that they know a mechanic, my brother is a mechanic. That doesn't mean to say that my car is serviced every 5000km. If there's no log book when they got the vehicle then they should have kept servicing receipts.

If you can afford it get everything inspected by NRMA. There are some great quality magnas out there, don't have your heart set on buying the first one you see.

Get anal when looking at a car too. Look at the bolts on the door and on trunk If the paint has been scratched off the bolts, this indicates the door/trunk has been off the car - why?

Also look at the gap between the panels. If this gap changes then panels have been moved/take off.

Likewise, check the engine bay - does the front radiator support bar look original ? are there any signs of replaced nutts.

Look at the paint. Excluding stonechips, are there any bubbles in the paint. Does the paint feel gritty? - possible respray.

Look at the rubber on the door and elsewhere on the vehicle -are there any paint specs ? yet again, respray.

Look under the vehicle for leaks around the engine sump.

Look at the oil - if its black then I think it's probably missed a service. Look at the dipstick - has it got an oilstain one you have wiped it with a rag - if so then oil has been burnt onto the dipstick and may indicate lack of oil change.

Look around the oil cap, likewise look out for burnt on oil.

Look for colour in trim changes.

Look at wear on peddals. get a fair idea of what sort of wear and tear you would expect to see on a car with 75,000km.

Ask where the vehicle got serviced, call the mechanic if you can.

On the road test see how the tranny shifts - is it rough? is it indecisive?

Take the car around a few corners - listen to any clicking noise that may be coming from the front of the vehicle. This can indicate stuffed front cvs. Also have a look under the car in the area of the cv joints and the inside rim on the wheel. Are there any leaks? is the rubber boot torn (Torn CV boots, if not fixed, can lead to CV failure).

If they come up with too many excuses and not enough evidence walk away.
Try and get the 5 speed auto if you can't find a manual.

Check the coolant too (only when its cold!!) - have a look at NRMA - http://www.mynrma.com.au/easy_guides_wha.asp

LPG - LPG cars get less km to the tank and less power and torque. LPG cars are also probably ex courier cars etc too, which might be something to avoid.

Oh yeah, appart from my waffle above, If you consider some "minor" financing, and borrow say 6-7G you could get yourself an ex govt TJ2 sports with about 40000km or less on the clock - I did.

Likewise, if you take that financing route, shop around. Quite a few places offer really **** rates and pretend its the market norm. The will prob. offer around 9-10%. In reality it should be low 8s or even high 7s. Keep away from creidt cards too.

first up thanks for the advice


Get a vehicle with a log book.

Mitsubishi's in particular don't take it too well when the automatic transmission fluid isn't changed regularly. Thats all well and good that they know a mechanic, my brother is a mechanic. That doesn't mean to say that my car is serviced every 5000km. If there's no log book when they got the vehicle then they should have kept servicing receipts.


I've had a good look at the oil colour/dipstick and the coolant, as well as had a good listen to the engine and everything. I didn't think to check the tranny fluid but from what i've seen there's nothing to indicate that it hasn't been well looked after - obviously a log book would be a lot better.



If you can afford it get everything inspected by NRMA. There are some great quality magnas out there, don't have your heart set on buying the first one you see.


Get anal when looking at a car too. Look at the bolts on the door and on trunk If the paint has been scratched off the bolts, this indicates the door/trunk has been off the car - why?

Also look at the gap between the panels. If this gap changes then panels have been moved/take off.

Likewise, check the engine bay - does the front radiator support bar look original ? are there any signs of replaced nutts.

Look at the paint. Excluding stonechips, are there any bubbles in the paint. Does the paint feel gritty? - possible respray.

Look at the rubber on the door and elsewhere on the vehicle -are there any paint specs ? yet again, respray.

I had a look at most of this stuff and all looked OK, no specs to be seen and panels all lined up - you mentioned a couple of things I didn't think of though like checking bolts.


Ask where the vehicle got serviced, call the mechanic if you can.

another good idea


On the road test see how the tranny shifts - is it rough? is it indecisive?

was very smooth


Take the car around a few corners - listen to any clicking noise that may be coming from the front of the vehicle. This can indicate stuffed front cvs. Also have a look under the car in the area of the cv joints and the inside rim on the wheel. Are there any leaks? is the rubber boot torn (Torn CV boots, if not fixed, can lead to CV failure).

Silent around corners but haven't had an inspection.

to be honest the only thing I could find wrong with it is that the interior was dirty, like there had been kids in the back playing with food, a few stains and that sort of thing. nothing a good clean wouldn't fix though.


LPG - LPG cars get less km to the tank and less power and torque. LPG cars are also probably ex courier cars etc too, which might be something to avoid.

Yeah i'm not going to bother with gas anymore I think

once again thanks you seem to know your stuff

If you keep looking, you can get better models than the Solara even. It's a pity that you're in WA as there is a TJ Manual Sports with 78K going for $12,400 in Sydney. And generally people say that buying a Manual Magna is a wiser option if you're prepared to shift manual every day. As its slightly more powerful, doesn't lag when you give it some etc. But if you're not prepared to drive manual or can't, autos are still good. :)

If you keep looking, you can get better models than the Solara even. It's a pity that you're in WA as there is a TJ Manual Sports with 78K going for $12,400 in Sydney. And generally people say that buying a Manual Magna is a wiser option if you're prepared to shift manual every day. As its slightly more powerful, doesn't lag when you give it some etc. But if you're not prepared to drive manual or can't, autos are still good. :)


I saw that magna on carsales - good buy.

Just wanted to tell dave_au that he's done a top write-up there! Good stuff champ!

Just wanted to tell dave_au that he's done a top write-up there! Good stuff champ!


i second that - and it should be made into the new FAQ under "what to look for when buying a new magna" !!

Top job Dave AU!!!!:thumbsup:

i second that - and it should be made into the new FAQ under "what to look for when buying a new magna" !!

Top job Dave AU!!!!:thumbsup:

Thanks guys, that list is certainly not exhaustive either.

A couple of others I have thought about -

Towing - always be weary of a car with a toeball, try and find out if the car was ever used for towing. Be cheeky, don't just say "did you tow with this car" say something like "You got a boat mate?" etc. Plus if the boat/caravan/whatever is the size of the queen mary, its probably likely that the magna has been pulling a little bit more than 1500kg.

Measure the distance between the wheel hubs and the fenders. If the car has had a serious side impact, it could be "crab walking". I had a look at a Tx5 once and the right front wheel hub was 5cm behind the left wheel hub.

Get the owner to rev the vehicle whilst you look at the exhaust. Preferably on a cold startup if possible. If there is blue smoke then the cyclinder rings are stuffed.

Listen to the engine too - if its making a tick tick noise then its got sticky valve lifters. These are not a major issue for the medium term but something that may have to be addressed later.

Be very warey if the engine bay has been recently detailed. The more the bay has been left alone, the more likely you will be able to second guess the vehicles prior history, this also applies under the car too. The main fact here is that an engine bay detail does a wonderful job of hiding engine leaks. If there is heaps of bullsdust then its been on a few dirt tracks, this could mean that you might be up for new shocks/suspension has taken a few bumps. Heaps of leaves? looks like little old granny didn't always have it in the garage did she?

Likewise, take a tourch and look for scrapes under the car.

Look for thuds when the car is under engine load to off engine load during driving, this can indicate a broke engine mount.

Moderately brake whilst driving too - see if you have a vibration thru the brake pedal, this can indicate warped brake discs.

Highway Km they say? thats all well and good, but was it still serviced on km time?

Feel free to ask why they are selling it. Never expect an honest answer.

Ex cop cars - if you were given a car that wasnt yours with free fuel - how would you drive it?

Worse to the point, other than being driven hard, these cars are also driven hard from cold, and we all know the castrol ad. Appart from a bigger alternator and wiring loom, Police cars are stock so don't let salesmen tell you their "police specials". Always allow $3,000 to fix up an ex police car - something will be wrong with it.

If your in NSW you can do an online REVS check through the RTA website which will also tell you how many owners the car has had in the past year. If its a private sale, and the car had been traded previously that year, something may be very wrong with it.

Originally Posted by dave_au

LPG - LPG cars get less km to the tank and less power and torque. LPG cars are also probably ex courier cars etc too, which might be something to avoid.


Yeah i'm not going to bother with gas anymore I think

Don't be put off lpg it has bout the same power if factory approved and fitted cost me $25 a week in gas and would be $70 a week on petrol thats a couple a grand a year saving the cost of your car in 6 years it burns higher so it leads to less carbon deposits many experts on fuels say it prolongs engine life by up to 30% but that is a debatetable point.Mine is an ex repco victorian sales rep car and is as good as new after 185,000km keep your options open and if you see a tj with duel it is most likely factory approved with the lpg compatable engine.Grab it.................. your wallet will love you :P

If you keep looking, you can get better models than the Solara even. It's a pity that you're in WA as there is a TJ Manual Sports with 78K going for $12,400 in Sydney. And generally people say that buying a Manual Magna is a wiser option if you're prepared to shift manual every day. As its slightly more powerful, doesn't lag when you give it some etc. But if you're not prepared to drive manual or can't, autos are still good. :)

sounds almost too good to be true, the only tj sports i've seen here have more kays and are around 14-15k

manual *drool*


Don't be put off lpg it has bout the same power if factory approved and fitted cost me $25 a week in gas and would be $70 a week on petrol thats a couple a grand a year saving the cost of your car in 6 years it burns higher so it leads to less carbon deposits many experts on fuels say it prolongs engine life by up to 30% but that is a debatetable point.

Hmm, curiouser and curiouser. I guess if factory fitted then what you said must be true but someone else told me LPG leads to lower power output and decreased engine life. *shrug*

It definately leads to lower power, as for engine life, who knows. That argument surrounds the ron rating of LPG which is about 102 I think. I guess its comparable to say, running a 91 octane car on 98 ron on the basis it will increase engine life.

RON in LPG does not mean the same sort of thing as RON in fuel though.

sounds almost too good to be true, the only tj sports i've seen here have more kays and are around 14-15k

manual *drool*



Hmm, curiouser and curiouser. I guess if factory fitted then what you said must be true but someone else told me LPG leads to lower power output and decreased engine life. *shrug*
Yeah but bugger all ,i don't notice the difference switching.The question to ask is will i cop 5% at most power loss for a major money saving over the life of the car