Hi Folks,

Might be getting a TR auto wagon as a *gift* but there's no point taking it if it's going to burn my wallet.

What major drama's do you guy/gals get from these cars? All I know is it's an Exec, auto, 2.6efi, wagon.

What sort of km have people put on these cars without hassle from the GB?

Thanks in advance.

we replaced the engine in our TS after 190 000kms, the auto 'box is still the original and its running fine (260 000kms+), dad thinks it'll die soon, i doubt it tho, still feels fine, but if it dus then i dunno wat im gonna do. u may hav some problems with the noisy timing chain- we tried tightening the tensioners but later on after a couple days the rattle came back- and sometimes these engines can leak oil, my problem (well i think) is a broken gasket on the rocker cover, i had to clean it a while back and its slowly gettin oil bak there. other problems u might occur is the coolant thingy (the cover to the coolant) can wear out and dry up and crack wen u try open it- i think we had to replace that a couple times. not really any problems from these astron 2 engines, except for the damn timing chain, after 60-70 odd thousand kms and the darn rattle has returned to my car (this is a brand new engine) :rant:

i hav heard some reports of my old engine running fine, and as i sed we replaced it at 190 000 odd kms, dunno how many kms its got on it now tho, but it has been reconditioned and the timing chain was fixed and evrything

Got this review off a web site a few weeks ago when looking for a Magna wagon. I can't find the link now, so I hope it's ok to paste it here (it's a bit long). Might be a bit late for this post now, but it may useful to others...


ENGINE & TRANSMISSION

Upgraded 2.6 EFI engine delivered extra grunt over earlier Magnas but hefty body when loaded can peg fuel consumption figures to levels of big local sixes. Basic GLX carburettor engine sacrificed economy and power to cut initial cost but should cost less to maintain as car ages.
Noisy valve lifters and rattly, loose timing chains are the main worries in the four-cylinder cars. Failed tensioners, shaved heads following head gasket failure and wear can all increase slop in the chain allowing it to gouge out its housing and circulate metal shards throughout the engine. Avoid these neglected engines.
Fuel injection systems on 2.6-litre four and 3.0-litre V6 can be ready for attention including sensors, cold start devices, injectors, fuel pumps, filters, air-flow meters and various idle controls.
Thermostat in cooling system is prone to sticking open forcing engine to run too cool which then prompts the electronic control unit to constantly activate the electronic choke for massive increase in fuel consumption, black smoke and destruction of engine oil. Any engine that runs constantly on the lowest reading of the temperature gauge needs immediate attention but it is not an expensive repair if caught before it damages the engine.
The V6 has a timing belt that must be replaced according to the specified interval or else. The high aluminium content of this engine makes it prone to serious damage if the correct Mitsubishi-approved coolant is not flushed and replaced according to the specified intervals. Weeping water pumps, damaged radiator cores near the header tanks, leaking head gaskets and heater cores emerge in rapid succession if the coolant has been neglected.
The 2.6-litre four-cylinder model is good for 200,000 trouble-free kms and the V6 up to 350,000 trouble-free kms providing quality oil and filters are used. Both must be changed more frequently than 10,000kms under short runs. All Mitsubishi engines are prone to hardened valve stem seals after 100,000km which accelerates oil consumption overnight. Most owners who never check the oil between services usually run the engine dry the first time it happens. Make sure that the example you are buying has not been hastily put on the market with thick oil to hide a terminal death rattle in the engine after running out of oil. This problem, common to all Japanese overhead cam engines, is easier to fix in a Magna than most when its seals can be renewed cheaply without lifting the cylinder head. Let the car idle while hot for a minute then blip the throttle. A puff of white smoke indicates the need for imminent attention.
Early Magna autos were an ongoing weak spot and while this series was better, early failures were not uncommon. At this age, it would have failed already and the quality of repair and warranty terms on the replacement auto is now a bigger issue. Manuals can also be showing worn synchros and dodgy fifth engagement. Easy shifting cable selectors can stretch and go vague with hamfisted drivers.
The clicking of Magna CV joints as it rounds a corner or under power is a common sound in suburbia. Broken CV boots generate failed joints which in turn lead to failed driveshafts and other broken parts as it flails around. Check the boots and replace immediately if split.
Early alternators were a failure item. Battery capacity was marginal and if cheap battery is fitted expect ongoing electrical glitches and alternator failure as it struggles to keep up.
Big rear muffler can rot prematurely under constant short trips.
SUSPENSION & BRAKES
Front suspension does it tough with weight over front wheels so listen for rattly strut inserts, worn spring pads, tired ball joints and worn bushes in control arms and anti-roll bar.
Front brakes do most of the work so distorted or undersize brake rotors are common.
Model is sensitive to good tyres. Avoid those without matching tyres as they must be rotated every 10,000km otherwise fronts will chop out in 17,000km or less.
Steering can do it tough on urban cars with worn rack ends, bushes and leaking seals. Power steering pump can be noisy and leaking while hydraulic hoses are starting to fail. Check fluid level and colour.
BODY
This Magna was one of the first locals to use advanced and classy clear over base metallic paints hence tough shine and good colour range. Ignorant owners who cut and polish the top clear coat will expose the matt colour base which will require a respray. Look for poor panel fit and tell tale variations in the paint texture. Fine door fit near the roofline is critical and even minor damage can generate a huge increase in wind noise if not correctly repaired.
Most common problem is scuffed front bumper corners due to large turning circle and clumsy drive-in parkers who cut across the front. Bumpers take an enormous whack before they show external damage but can be hiding significant panel damage underneath.
Sensible shape provides outstanding all round vision and decent boot but no fold down back seat so check boot lid and seal for damage from long loads. Check all lights and body trim items. Front left wheel and hubcap are prone to severe scraping which can gouge rims and destroy tyres. Throw away any tyre where you can no longer read the markings.
There are a number of plastic fittings inside that break with ongoing family abuse including centre console and other fittings. Check that all accessories and controls work and if air-conditioning has failed, allow for R134a upgrade. Early fleet and hire car use may have generated cigarette burns in carpet and seats so lift covers and mats where fitted.
Front spoiler and underbody subject to damage from regular grounding on kerbs and spoon drains. Flared wheelarch extensions will almost certainly be scraped and may need protection strips.
Wagon load area can be a disaster area in some examples. Check that the gas liftback struts don't sag after opening. Check that loads haven't gouged the rear window demister and broken the circuit.

Wow. My brain is FULL now!

Thanks for the help guys.